An amazing set up, I have a brick garage with LED lighting, sockets ( I was an electrician originally) and electric roller shutter but not as wide or tall. The services should be run in a soft surface dig in duct and not under the drive. This is so you can get to them easier if they go faulty or if the pipe bursts. You can get natural cedar finish that doesn’t need treatment, it just weathers to a silver finish.
If your not planing to do rustrepair i would go for an in floor sissorlift, like i have myself, it fress up 1m off space each side, so it dosn't feelso cramp, we put flamingo in the concret floors here i have 200mm off the grey stuff(20% better then the white stiff) in my garage floor, (where the lift is there is no insulation), in denmark you can get a garage door that goes up the angel celling, that's what i would use if i had a full height in side, i only have 2.36m,. Regards sören
Use a rigid insulation board under the concrete. This is laid on a dpm which should be laid on a level compacted sand bed. I would use a rebar mesh to reinforce the concrete floor.
Roll on you building your garage George. Is this garage featured complete or an ongoing build/workshop kit out ? That garage looks awful clinical. Doesn't seem like it would fare well to any type of metalwork, grinding, engine transplants sadly. It's more like a detailing showroom. Not a workshop. Where is/are the lathe, pedestal drill, bench grinder(s), welder(s), engine cranes, engine stands, storage racks, tyre machine, tyre balancer, air compressor and air supply points etc ? I will have to watch the video again. I'm sure a bench vice was missing 😮
You need a workbench with 4 x 4 legs, a 3 inch thick top , with 10mm thick steel plate on the top, to take the hammering you are going to give to your 6 inch vice, domestic units would be useless ,walls should be concrete block..so you can bolt or hang anything off them, Floor ..if i was doing it again would have underfloor heating...needs to be 6 inches of re-enforced concrete .....you could have a bit of a trench running down the middle to aid with your height, floor paint ..it will all be gone once you start pulling engines about and welding. start buying old 4 drawer filing cabinets to swallow up your tools, you need a compressor that will give out over 20 cfm , have a 200 litre tank, be atround 5.5hp. and an armoured cable running from your house that is capable of taking at least 150 amps, plenty of light from windows in the roof. get an old belfast sink .
That's a really nice space to work in. My garage is similar, in so far as it is 5m wide, and I have an electrically operated up-and-over door with a separate personnel door, which is a great asset definitely. Unfortunately, I only have 7 foot height, but I would not have got planning permission for a building any higher. It is still a good place to work though, I have a HAMER car lift (Google it if you are interested) which has been a god-send. In order to save quite a lot of money, I laid my own base, never again. It was much harder than I expected it to be. 30 sq. m. of 150mm deep concrete is no joke to work with. I was going to attempt it in one stage, but luckily I got chatting to some builders working on my neighbour's house and they said that they wouldn't attempt it, so I laid it in 2 halves, which was still very hard to do.
Can't wait for you to achieve this in your channel. You deserve it mate Im a self employed electrical contractor registered with NICEIC approved contractor. If you need any advice I'm happy to help you along your journey even in the planning stage. Also in the floor i would put 100mm insulation what would help massively with the insulating on the space.
