What's your hi-hat stand and clutch of choice? Also, if you enjoyed this episode, be sure to check out our episode on dialing in your bass drum pedal: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Mbvs-wXWwRY.html
I play double pedal a lot, so what’s important to me is having a 3-legged hi hat stand that can swivel, so I have that stability, as well as the option to “hug” the left pedal with one of the legs, which also helps keep that left pedal from slipping. I’m kinda torn on clutches; I used to like drop clutches for some situations, but they don’t really hold down all that tight for a super dry, staccato closed hi hat sound, because it just kinda flops down, instead of being securely closed like it could be with just a regular clutch. I particularly love the clutches that can pinch on / off on the top hat, like the Pearl 150 stand has, for example. Saves a LOT of time for tear-down, and less likelihood of losing small parts
Got the standard stand that came with my Pearl Export till I upgrade but it gets the job done, picked up a Gibraltar quick release clutch though which is so helpful, grips the rod all the way around unlike my standard clutch which had a one point screw grip on it so now my hats don't slip and the magnetic nut on the bottom of the clutch means it doesn't come unscrewed at all while playing, so it was definitely worth it. Great video guys!
Tama iron cobra velo glide hi hat stand with the Tama quick lock hi hat clutch that comes with the 900’s. Can’t go wrong with the iron cobra or speed cobra hi hat stands and pedals.
Just in case someone needs it: 1) 01:42 The Clutch 2) 03:56 Cymbal Spacing 3) 05:40 Cymbal Height 4) 7:07 Spring Tension 5) 09:11 Bottom Cymbal Angle 6) 11:27 Leg Setup 7) 13:02 Additional Adjustments Absolutely looooove this channel to bits! Always liked, favourite, put into my playlist even before the video start! ❤💛💚💙💜
Sounds Like A Drum Ah yes, I saw! But in all my Android phones, the description time stamps can't be clicked though! But if it's in the comments, we'll be able to click on it and it'll automatically skip to that part of the video! So I find it helpful if it's in the comments, haha
Glad to hear it! Welcome to the drumfam. You'll want to check out this video as well for bass drum pedal setup: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Mbvs-wXWwRY.html Cheers! -Ben
Don't forget to mention when adjusting the bottom tilt, rotate that whole device toward you so the top slightly overlaps the bottom. it'll save you a lot of stick chew! see video at 0:34 overhead shot. Cheers!
Wow finally thank you I sit down on kits Make these adjustments They get mad . . . I say repeat what i did Now include it into your style Wow it sounds so much better IT TAKES YOU TO THE NEXT LEVEL
Thank you. I play bass but I own the drum kit. The drummers won't make any changes to my kit even when I ask them to. So I adjust everything. Videos like this help.
Regarding the bottom cymbal angle, I always turn the stand so the highest part of the bottom cymbal is on my side. That way, the top cymbal covers the bottom when I hit the open hihat and it saves some sticks life. Thanks for your videos, precious content!
I appreciate your subjective approach. Instead of “this is right and this is wrong” you have “this is what you can do and this is what I like, but try it for yourself and see what you like.” Perfect!
I am the same as you. Two hi hats that I have had forever. I can not even remember exactly when I bought them. I like your tool comment. That is what it is a tool. Same as my circular saw. It works so I use it no mater how old it is but you know what it is going to do. Thanks for another great video.
Yikes crazy some drummers dont know how to adjust their pedals glad you are helping them, kinda like a guitarist who doesnt know how to adjust his action or eq on his amp head
I remember sending you a comment a few months ago about tuning my five toms to the open strings of a bass guitar, and yet I also remember getting rid of two of those toms, like the next day. A bit more experience and I realized three toms is plenty. Anyway thanks for all the content, you guys. You've helped my progress every step of the way.
7:38 Maaaan. Been playing the drums since I was 7 years old (now 32) and literally never even knew that spring tension screw existed. Think someone must've tightened mine up in my studio years ago, as it's been playing awfully and stiff for a long while. I was about to replace it, but now I've set the spring tension to a human level it's moving up and down like butter again! You saved me a sickening amount of money, thanks brother!
Another spot on video... great job. My all time favorite HH stand is still my 1972 Rogers. It's got all the adjustments, is light weight , which is good for hauling, but also allows me to feel the weight of the cymbals more. As a jazz player, I use the hi hats a lot... stick work, splashes etc. and find a good quality stand that is well adjusted invaluable to the color I'm able to add as opposed to the simple 2 & 4 chick that too many drummers limit themselves to. I also play a fair number of jam sessions, where I'm sitting at someone else kit and frequently run into the situation where they don't have the spurs adjusted to dig into the rug and thus leave you chasing the stand as the song unfolds. After I get the basics adjusted, it's the next thing I check.... ensuring that I can play the HH's to their full potential. Keep up the good work..........
I have the new Rogers hihat stand, and the footbed angle is really low. So, I need to adjust the leg spread to raise the footbed. I don't raise it much, but enough so the angle feels more comfortable.
My hat set up is pretty much set to the middle ground of all available settings. One thing that I do with intent regards the tilt adjust. I choose to have that adjustment screw towards me so when m hats are open, I can only see the top plate edge. Basically 180° to your set up. Initially my reason for this was to see if it might reduce the chipping away of my sticks. Having that bottom plate jut out so just seemed like an axe edge. The jury is still out on that but, I did find in tilting away that I had a better overall control of the sounds I needed from my hats. From a little side flick of the stick to disco beats ( or Smoke on the Water 😉) to that jazz swing clutching with thumb and index finger. I haven't found a downside to tilting my plates this way. I've used this with wavy edged bottoms which were designed to eliminate the air lock syndrome as well with no discernable ill effects although I suppose I could flatten those out, but I don't just because I'm now used to my set-up. What year is that snare? My WFL just celebrated its 62nd birthday on Sept. 26th. Mine is a now very yellowed and eggshelled marine white pearl wrap as well. It's a rescue. Found it on a curb for the trash man painted flat black. Looks like hell but plays like a mutha!!! Peace Cody Oh, btw, what's your gig schedule like? Im in NYC alot and would love to come check out the band!
I just got a new to me used kit. It’s been a long time since I owned one- I’ve watched more of your videos than anything- thank you for the excellent content
I really appreciate you guys for giving me quite a headstart with drumming. It's been something I've wanted to try for along time, and while I've been trying to put together a starter kit, your stuff has really helped me to understand how it all works, and I actually managed to tune my snare (Properly) first go!
It’s amazing how cool you can fill in a patterns sound by sizzling or splashing the hats with your foot while playing the pattern. The longer I play and older I get, the closer I pay attention to little things like this video. I’ve gone from clear heads all around to preferring coated heads on everything but the bass drum batter and reso heads on toms and snare.
I gotta be honest,when I first start watching your videos I didn't care for them,but man I love them now they're very informative and you're doing a great job thanks bro
Remo quick lock 4 lyf! Never going back to screw clutches, the quick lock is a life saver; I've never had it come undone, it physically can't. Been playing the same Mapex stand for over ten years, still reliable as ever. I like how chunky and sturdy their gear is.
I watched the bass drum pedal one before this, I have been drumming for like 20 years and did not know a few things about both pedals! blew my mind. thank you!
One of the most important parts of the kit I think the hi hat. Thanks heaps now I know why my chick sound has been disappointing. Changing that angle right now!
Love the information you but out. I’ve been playing 35 years and I still discover things that work better for me. “I don’t know what to think about that” is perfect. I think as I get older adjusting things according to muscle redistribution, stiffness (getting old is yukky) and being plagued with wounds and injuries is a natural and necessary progression. Great job!
I have an 80s single brace 3-leg Tama Lever glide that came with my kit from the original owner and I feel just a little off using nearly anything else. My go-to method for setting hats if I’m on a different kit is the highest I can hit the tip on the bow without raising my shoulder, literally resting 1/8” distance between the shank and the edge, I usually play low volume gigs and need to access a shank on edge accent just from breaking my wrist and not activating my elbow at all.
Really great video as always! I've also used the bottom cymbal angle adjustment to have the open side of the cymbals away from me, gives me a couple of benefits, means I have a bit more control when playing open hat grooves, also helps keep the cymbals from rocking around whilst playing a bit harder. As always, love the content!
Been using the DW 5000 2 leg setup since it came out.These things are bullet proof.Did so many gigs with it and wouldn't trade it for anything although that new mcd that DW came out with is phenomenal. Thanks guys,your helping a lot of players with your great videos.!!!
Another excellent and well presented video. I wanted to mention, that for those who play double bass drums, there is a clutch that you can simply strike with your stick, that allows your top hi hat to drop onto the bottom, when u want to use both feet on the bass pedals.
I use an old DW 5500 stand from about 25 years ago, 2-legged with the Delta I hinge (same as my double pedal and remote hi-hat stand). It's on the heavy side, but not as heavy as a modern 5500. I keep the spring tension about a loose as it will go; it doesn't quite do the floaty thing that modern DW stands do, especially not with my ~860g Agop, but it's close. I tried the 1st generation DW drop-lock clutch, but I hated the gap between the two pieces, so I just use a regular DW clutch. I keep the top cymbal as loose in the clutch as I can without getting that clicky feel when I play it with my foot, and the cymbals are fairly far apart, but not quite as much as most jazz players might have them - my hi-hat stand doesn't feel like a bass drum pedal. I also tried the DW clutch for x-hats, the one with the sideways lever to adjust the cymbal spacing, but the lever is too tight and unscrews the pull rod when I try to adjust it. My ideal hi-hat would be something without pillars on either side, such as Sonor or Trick. The Trick has ugly legs though (yeah, I'm shallow like that). I wish Sonor would put into production the custom hi-hat stand they did for Jojo Mayer, where they replaced the chain with a strap (or I wish I were handy enough to do it myself). I imagine Trick is too in love with metal to do anything with straps. I don't like the feel of direct drive (at least on bass drum pedals), and chains require oil and are a little messy.
I remember the first gig I was sharing hardware with other drummers. It took like 15 minutes and some pliers to open the clutch and change the top hat because apparently I hadn't been touching that clutch for several years...
Sounds Like A Drum yeah they do. However, I’m waiting on the arrival of perhaps the most versatile snare ever. 6.5x14 Gretsch USA Solid aluminum. A touring drummer friend of mine says it’s his go to in so many situations...super versatile!
@@SoundsLikeADrum Hi Cody...FYI probably a typo, but it mentions in the signal chain that the drums are Pearl Masters Custom Extra Maple...I figured I would catch up with a comment in this thread about this the snare (being a Ludwig). Beautiful snare! Informative lesson! I use DW 6000 Series Ultralight for all my stands including HH. I sort of miss having a quick release clutch (might have to get one), but this clutch is fine. I really love the UL stands... so lightweight yet sturdy enough for all my cymbal needs. Plus you can get a really cool carrying bag for all the hardware if you buy a package set. Thanks for your videos!
I use Sonor 600 series hardware since 2012. Really enjoy it! I set my hi-hat height on the lowest level possible because: 1) I play my left hand on the hi-hat & cymbals; 2) I have my hi-hat & cymbals on the left; 3) I play open handed technique; 4) I prefer to play hi-hat from above because I prefer sound made by tip of the stick.
Nice Video! I use a 1990s Premier Hi Hat stand with a Gibraltar clutch. Seems to work for me. Bought the stand brand new and replaced the clutch a couple of years ago.
Re: 11:26 Another reason to keep this part on the floor is, if you have the spurs on this part, you can benefit from them. The spurs will help keep the stand from sliding away from you, especially if the feet on your stand don't have spurs that you can use. I have the Yamaha HS-850. I bought it recently to replace a Pearl H-1000 that had problems I was tired of dealing with. The Pearl H-1000 has spurs on each of the 3 legs that can be used in addition to the spurs on the center part. I loved those spurs on the feet because it meant my stand would never, ever, ever, ever budge. Ever. When I went shopping for a new stand, the HS-850 was the only one that I wanted even though it doesn't have spurs on the feet. Get this: even though it has no spurs on the feet, the 2 spurs on the center part are all that's needed. I can stomp on my HS-850 all day and it never slides away from me. It simply digs into my carpeted drum mat and stays put. I remember testing the H-1000's ability to stay put without the feet spurs extended (or the center spurs), and it took just a couple of hi-hat foot splashes and chicks to make it start sliding away from me. So before getting the HS-850, I worried about this but it's been great because I make sure the center section is in contact with the floor but I also test for wobble before I finish setting up because I want that thing to be *stable* when I play. Regarding memory locks: I'm pretty sure the only purpose of memory locks is to make set-up faster.
Oh I've seen that where the base plate is way up in the air, very bad for the hihat stand period! Like u said, that thing is "supposed" to be on the floor. I adjusted a guys when I was playin his kit & he got major upset wit me 😆. I tried to explain but he insisted " Aww That's Why It's Got 3 Legs Instead of 2". I put it back the way he had it & went about my way. Bout a week later he had to get a new one cause it started rocking so bad he couldn't take it nomore, thanks Cody & Cadence productions
Great video! I’m still learning, but I can tell you balance between the bass pedal and hi-hat pedal is important. I appreciate that you mentioned it. 👍🏻
A piece of advice I got a long time ago is to always experiment with your set-up until you find a set-up that you love. Even if it's unconventional, make sure it works for you.
I play back beats with my left foot most of the time. In quiet situations, I set them closer together. Also, the rod comes extra long from the factory. But you can cut it off wherever you want. I see drummers with 18" of empty rod sticking up sometimes! Hi hat pedals should be sold with a hacksaw blade :)
Great reminder! Question: Have you done a video on the drumsticks you use. I'm interested in trying some Promark sticks. Thanks for your response and thanks for what you guys are doing here. I seriously value your content.
Thanks! We really enjoy a variety of options within the Select Balance series and made a video about the series here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GChqAAlLJWQ.html In addition, the 718 Acid Jazz and 733 Michael Carvin models are definitely favorites of ours. -Ben
I use the bottom angle screw for making the cymbals to sizzle more, to increase wash because I mostly play double pedal without engaging my hi-hat foot. Thus the cymbals are in an optimal default position for extreme wash)
Something Stephen Taylor addressed not long ago was improving the lifespan of your sticks with how your hats are positioned. I've made a habit of this now: if the side that the bottom hat is protruding from is where you're striking the stick, the point of contact (I guess mainly if you're playing mostly stick shoulder like me) is directly on the rim of the bottom hat. Cuts right into the stick, and puts the bottom at greater risk of cracking too. Just keeping an eye out and swivelling the hats round so you're striking the top first is a help. More recently I'm raising my hats pretty high so I've more space to whack the snare, so doing this is imperative imo
Dominic Smith You can also rotate the top hi hat tube 180° so that the tilt screw is on the same side of the hi hat stand as you. Then the edge of the bottom cymbal that was chewing up your sticks is now overlapped a bit by the top cymbal..
for ride cymbals I feel like a much overlooked technique is the click grip. Basically you hold the stick like a woodblock and it creates a very different response in the attack of the cymbal. It really makes the washy cymbals sing with woody attack, making them more versatile.
I’ve run into cases where the stage or floor is not even, so I’ll use the bottom angle adjust in connection with rotating the top post of the stand. It helps me maintain a consistent angle I enjoy (almost flat, as I use Zildjian Mastersound bottom).
I’ve got a flat base Pearl hi-hat stand and the manual explicitly mentions to keep the center part in the air, not touching the ground. Wondering if the reasoning is different for a flat base stand...
Great video. I wish it was here like a year and a half ago lol. I really wish my stand had that internal spring function adjustable. I too have also seen people lift up the center of the base, so that only the outside legs are touching the ground. I hate that. First of all, I like my stuff to stay as still as possible and acoustic kits already move a bit, so last thing I want is my hats moving from leg to leg with each step of the pedal. Also, I went to 3 years of drafting and design and then was on my way in college to becoming an architect until I changed majors, so when I see people changing the base of the hi hat stand in this manner, I just wanna jump in the video and align the feet or something because that foundation is made to be there and touch the ground not be lifted by the other legs and bouncing all over sorta because a person that didn’t design it and doesn’t have a history in structural engineering or anything similar thinks the stand just works better like that. Well like you said, that’ll definitely take life out of your stand rather than put life in. And don’t feel bad if you gotta tighten your kick up for more speed or play closed hats at times if you’re playing a double bass or so much more. I feel like there could be a whole lesson book or video just on the few adjustments that can be made to stands, pedals, and the drums and other accessories that change the sound besides getting different cymbals, different drums, new heads, etc.
Just a note on the tilt adjustment. I noticed you have the tilt adjuster away from you, I found by putting the tilt adjuster closer to me the bottom cymbal will stay tucked under the top cymbal which allows me to strike the side without too much damage to my sticks. Be it a stick saver of sorts. It doesn't effect the sound or play that I can tell but my sticks last a lot longer!
Great channel, brother! I saw you in a Rebecca Pigeon video the other day, which was a pretty cool surprise. That must have been a cool session, she's amazing.
I play left hand lead on a standard right hand setup. so I set my hihat nearly parallel with the snare. but once I started gigging, I found it difficult to adjust to other peep's kits their hihats way up in the air, so now I try to practice sometimes with it up and sometimes down just so i can be comfortable with any setup.
As far as bottom cymbal angle goes... depending on how high you play your hats relative to the snare height... tilting the bottom cymbal toward you can be very helpful in creating a more comfortable approach angle for the stick. If you're playing hard rock, and your hats are relatively high with no angle... your sticks will start looking like a beaver had at them. It's also not good for the cymbals to rock out on the sharp edge all of the time.
studio hack. if someone is using obnoxiously loud 13" hats that can't be tamed, flip them. everyone knows the cymbals are different, but i'm not sure everyone knows that the bottom one is the darker one. flip them and you can get a chunkier sound out of tiny annoying hats.
I never knew the screw on the bottom hihat holder is to actually angle it. I thought it's more like to straighten it if it's angling by itself. I have hihats with wavy edge though so there is no issue with trapped air.
+soundslikeadrum *The Drum Workshop® hi-hat stand with the YAMAHA® RY2T4 at OMS Japanese Christian Church is a typical example of all points shown.* I'm currently considering a TAMA®/Hoshino® clutch with hemispheric rubbers rather than flat felts for the top cymbal to allow for appropriate reaction for Classical-derived pieces such as 19th-Century and earlier hymns, where I need to use the pedal to emulate techniques for hand-cymbal pairs.
