NEW TO LEOS: Leopards are great for a starting reptile. They rarely bite and even if they do, it really doesn't hurt. The biggest thing to be aware of, IMO, is stuck shedding. If you see that they have shed and you don't see where the shed is off of the toes area, it can actually constrict blood flow and cause you to lose a toe on the animal. You can mist it down with a water bottle or, if it has toe shedding, give it a very very shallow warm bath, maybe a fourth of an inch of water, and let it walk around. Then use a damp paper towel and gently rub on it's shedding for it to come off. When you start to see your gecko looking faded looking, then it's probably getting ready to shed. You can mist it with water at least once a day and that will help the shedding process. Also it is possible, if it gets loose or another critter gets a hold of its tail, it can come off. But they can grow their tails back. They use their tail to store extra fat. I used to have picky geckos that didn't want mealworms. They only wanted crickets. But in either case, just make sure you dust their food with a vitamin dusting powder so they don't develop issues. You can use the coconut substrate, or you can use a reptile carpet. Good luck! ❤️🐍❤️
I wouldn't put uv on a leopard gecko. I made that mistake with mine since I had a tube UVB and figured what could it hurt. He ended up getting what seemed like sunburn on his tail, it was shiny and peeling. I turned the uv off the same day, the peeling was taken care of with his next shed and he hasn't had the problem again leading me to believe the uv was the problem.
I don't think that beta carotene helps. You should feed with calcium and multivitamins feeding calcium twice then multivitamins and repeat. I'm just saying uvb is beneficial but not necessary but it is even better if you offer the right amount of uvb.
Zachary Limbaugh Sorry, my brain got a bit mixed up the beta carotene is in the multivitamin I have and there's vitamin D in the calcium. I hope it didn't come off like I was trying to argue with you, I know you were only correcting me on the whole uvb thing. I think the uv bulb I have now is a 10.0, it was a brand new one that I had leftover from my tortoise who now lives mostly outside.
Always wonder if there is a blooper reel somewhere, there be one heck of a mouthful you're getting through with het pos and neg, then T pos or neg all in one sentence as well as the genetic variants lol 😆👍 Awesome job, I'll be damned if I would be trying to get through that with a straight face error free. Have an amazing week mate👍.
thx brain for making my day awesome love your video can you plz just show us in one of your video or vlogs how to tell if your gecko is a male or female
I'd like to know the same thing. I'm guessing he just keeps the entire room near 90 in the day & near 75 at night. Otherwise he'd need a heat tape & thermostat for every single cube. Or a heat tape for every cube and a thermostat for every column? Hopefully we'll hear back, but based on the lack of replies to all the other comments... I'm doubtful.
Heat tape if that. Might just have the room at a certain temp. I wouldn't put that past him. He isn't the greatest source for care. He may be a breeder of many years and know genetics but when it comes to care guides he is dead wrong on most stuff.
Giant is actually a co-dominant trait like the snow. Unless they changed it when I wasn't looking, but it has proven true in my group. I guess I can see where it could be line bred but from my experiences and research it's suppose to be co-dominant. Haha Please correct me if I wrong and point me to the article! It's just how I've seen it for years now.
Love leopard geckos. Want to breed them and maybe a few ball pythons in the future. Nice little hobby, y'know? But leopard geckos are awesome. No matter how big or small they are, any bite is nothing. We had a giant and he bit and grabbed onto me (he didn't like the shirt I was wearing), it took me a moment to realize he was even attached. Left a heck of a mark for a while, but didn't really hurt at all. It looked worse than it was. Taming the geckos is an absolute walk in the park. Again, since the bites don't hurt, they get over the defensive response really fast and become little scale kitties lol.
I have an urgent problem. I got recently a patternless telescopus dhara or also known as a cat snake or also tiger snake.... To my surprise there is not much information about it in the net... And I want to know what temperature they live... What they eat how to care for them and why my snake wrapped it self like a ball python and just sat there... Not eating not drinking.... Did it hybernate... The room temperature is like 20 degrees Celsius
leos are awesome iv got 4 2 bells 1 blizzard and one that was a rescue not sue the genetics but its solid yellow with a bunch of black spots I think shes a normal but could be wrong
I have a Mandarin Tangerine Leopard Gecko that is 66% NDBE. What would I be able to breed it with if ever considered in the future? (Of course, after I do 100% research)
Is it bad for them to eat superworms and not mealworms just a ? Have 6 all have only eaten superworms they were not babies when I got them all where at least a year old or older
If you have a leapard gecko as a pet do they need to hybernate? Or can they stay active all year long? Would be good to know so i can educate people properly.
I love how excited you seem about all the different morphs! I recently acquired three leo's as rescues and really have no idea what morphs they are lol
Brian, I just wanna say thank you, it is because of you that I have cinda overcome my fear of snakes, you have showed and explained to me that they are not that dangerous, before I watched your videos on this chanel I coulden't even look at a snake, but I just said to my self "Ok, let's just get rid of this fear" so I started watching you videos and now I can look at a snake and not being scared of snakes but I have not yet hold a snake, but I will. Snakes is now one of my favortie animals, and the patterns and the colors of the Lizards and the snakes, they are so cool and beautiful.
After coming out of brumation do you pair the males and females after one week or wait for the females to ovulate first? Ii thought that the females do not ovulate until 2 - 3 weeks later. Since subsequent fertilization does not require pairing them again in the same cycle I guess that means that it make no difference if the female is inseminated before they ovulate. Secondly if you do not attempt to provoke ovulation but are waiting for it to occur spontaneously do you wait until the female has ovulated to pair them or does it occur with sufficient regularity during the breeding season that they can be paired at any time with the male?
My leopard gecko is a girl and is a adult and I’m thinking on breeding with my friends. My friends is a male and he’s smaller then mine so we might breed them but we would have to wait if he don’t grow we can’t lol
Great video! That dark snow gecko was crazy looking. I've never seen anything like that before. I was wondering if you could make a video about more of the genetics side of things. Help us plebs to understand a little bit better whats going on. I know you've covered it a little bit but maybe a more in depth video on just genetics with examples from multiple species could make for a really cool and informative video.
My leapord gecko has bit me 3 times but all three times she thought my fingers were her food that was my sign that she was hungry and couldn't find any of the food I put in for her. Sadly enough my leapord gecko is blind in her left eye after a shedding in exanthema and it is hard to feed her.
Leopard Geckos arent actually nocturnal, their diurnal which means they are out during dusk and dawn or out during the day depending on if you use a light or not.
Lucca17: You can handle him carefully over his tank once or twice a day until you get used to it and he gets used to it as well. Make sure to handle him over his tank because sometimes they can get startled and man, they can run! Good luck!👍
A lot of people hate on this guy for keeping the reptiles he breeds in a rack system but the reality is 95% of reptile breeders use a rack system to breed leopard geckos and ball pythons. And the reason that it works so well without killing the animals is because ball pythons and leopard geckos are nocturnal so they don't need UV light so breeders are able to heat them with just under tank heater or heat tape. And a lot of people complain about this when it comes to reptile breeders but if you have a nocturnal animal that doesn't require UV light and only requires under tank belly heat. And that animal doesn't see the sun in the wild anyway because it's in caves or in a hollow tree during the day and the only source of heat that it has is from the ground. Then the rack system actually makes sense both for the animal and economically and FUN FACT: there was a study done on ball pythons that were kept in aquariums versus rack systems and the ball pythons that were kept an aquariums frequently went on hunger strikes. Where they wouldn't eat but the ball pythons that were kept rack systems always ate and this is because nocturnal animals don't want to see the light anyway. And when you keep them in an aquarium it actually stresses them out and disturbs them because of the light that gets in and then that can cause some reptiles to go on a hunger strike and not eat.
I need to know this as fast as possible i'm going to breed my leopard gecko, i'm getting another one soon but i NEED to know if assorted leopard geckos are dominate or co-dominate, if they are co-dominate then how do i get assorted leopard gecko babies?
I wanted to see a Jungle. I never hear anything about the Jungles anymore! (stomps foot and whines petulantly) 8'( Leopard geckos are such cool little animals! The "Angyl" part of my name is from one of my leopard geckos, "Angyl". She's over 12 years old and her mommy, "Sci-fi", is 17.
I have a Mac and cheese colored gecko (male) And a max snow (female) how what do you think the babies would look out of your collection of geckos can you show me what it might look
static420 take it to the vet. Bloody feces can be a symptom of many things that someone on the internet cannot tell without seeing the animal. Hope your little guy gets better!
Yes. It's common they stop eating during breeding season. You should monitor their weight either biweekly or monthly to get a baseline during the "normal" months and then see how much they should be regaining after breeding season. Females are especially prone to this since they lay eggs regardless of if they have been bred or not. Infertile eggs of course.
PewPewCat I’ve had my two female Leo’s for over 7+ years and they have never laid an egg... yes I’m positive there females cause they don’t have bulges on their under side
They need a temperature gradient. The hot side should be about 90 with the heat mat (on a thermostat) and the cool side could be as low as 70-74. I've even read from a vet that nightly temperature drops are beneficial for the animal. Either way the tank needs to have cooler spots for the animal to thermoregulate itself
Brilliant....absolutely Brilliant.....So much great info, and 1001x more info than ANY pet store would even THINK to share with you...With the "BigBox" pet stores all they care about is the "Bottom Line" and How much profit they can get out of you on a monthly basis.....Thank you for this channel..... Ryan
Well his info wasn't 100% correct. They aren't nocturnal and they need a 20 gallon minimum and they DO need uvb lights. So don't take everything he said and run with it. Just because he is a breeder doesn't make him infallible. There are researchers and vets dedicated to leopard gecko care, they should be your resource.
I really wish you wouldn't downplay the necessity for uvb this much. Leopard geckos are crepuscular and they do need uvb. It is recommended that for patterned/normal/pigmented a bulb with a strength of 7% is used (arcadia shade dweller for example) and for patternless/albino/less pigmented a bulb of 6% uvb will suffice. It is also important to check the distance so your animal does not get sunburned. For example the arcadia shade dweller 7% should be 10-15" from the animal's back at all times. Lights should be on for 12 hours in winter and 14 hours in summer. Some other facts for new gecko owners: -Calci sand or any sand for that matter is a hard NO because of impaction (which is also a reason I would advise against buying an animal from a pet store because they are usually kept on sand in the major chain stores and could very well be impacted badly and die soon after you get them) -when supplementing calcium be mindful as to not overdose as there is a possibility of toxicity (hypercalcemia) which can cause renal failure among other issues. -another supplement to note is vitamin a. Leopard geckos need vitamin a but many supplements have provitamin a/beta carotene in them which the gecko cannot utilize due to lack of the proper enzyme to process it. You need to make sure to supplement preformed vitamin a -vitamin D/D3 is important to aid in calcium absorption, without it the gecko cannot process the calcium. This is why uvb is important. By giving your gecko a uvb lamp, they can self regulate and will take in as much uvb as they need. Another thing about D3 is the jury is still out in terms of overdose. There is no set amount (that I have read of) and there are also not many documented cases of D3 overdose, but caution should always be used when supplementing. -reptile carpet: has been found to catch their claws and a lot of people have moved away from it for that reason (personally, I advocate for bioactive enclosures) -tank size: while many people claim a 10 gallon is sufficient, it really is not good. A 20 gallon is considered the minimum by most people. You can easily find a cheap 20 gallon aquarium second hand for maybe 20 bucks or less if you are lucky. -diet: calci worms, butterworms, waxworms , silkworms, hornworms(not available in UK), superworms, mealworms, crickets, dubias, locusts(illegal in US) The most nutritious are dubias. Superworms, mealworms, crickets can bite. Many recommend squashing the heads of superworms before feeding. -heating: the most accessible, adequate heating for a leopard gecko is either heat tape or a heat mat (always with a thermostat!), the only overhead heat I would use is the arcadia deep heat projector -red lights are also bad, they CAN be seen as light and can be harmful to the circadian rhythms of your reptile -another thing about lighting is make sure it comes from above and not at an angle so it doesn't damage your reptile's eyes. That covered a few things but not nearly all. Please always do your (extensive) research before getting a pet. It has never been easier to do, the only hard thing is weeding out the misinformation from facts but if you read multiple articles, you'll likely see what is fact and what is fiction. Some shop sites have resources, like pangea reptile for example. Have multiple sources, it helps! 🤘🏻🦎
Great information, but I do think it’s important to mention that calcium sand itself will not do any harm to a leopard gecko unless other parts of the husbandry are bad, things like eco earth are a much bigger risk of impaction since plant fibres are much harder to break down in the stomach. Heating wise I wouldn’t even recommend a heat mat at all, infrared C is a terrible heat source and doesn’t energise the animal, deep heat projectors and tungsten bulbs give off lots of Infrared A and B which is much better for them. JTB Reptiles Is a RU-vid channel that has some very informative videos on all of this, hope I didn’t come across as an ass just that I didn’t know any of this for years so I’m trying my best to make it more well known since everybody seems to think heat mats are good.
@@kye4216 Uh.. no eco earth actually is great for leo's.. calci sand the leopard geckos will legit lick off the ground to try and top off on calcium while eco earth they don't eat it and it just comes out in their poop (own a leopard gecko for three years on eco earth)
@@jaynecrafter2684 the fiber that eco earth is made of is not digestible, little gross here but that’s why it’s important to have fibre in your diet cuz the strands of it keep ur poop solid. It also expands when wet so having that in your Leo’s stomach is terrible, much worse than if they eat calcium sand (that is literally like 90% calcium which isn’t bad for them) if a Leo dies from impaction of sand it’s due to other Problems with care as it’s much easier for them to pass than plant fibres.
@@kye4216 Nope! calci sand is not digestible.. too many leo's die from this misinformation "calci sand is calcium carbonate which is digestible in small amounts but it is a alkaline mineral which will neutralize the stomach acids. the lower acidity of the acids prevents food and further calci-sand from being digested causing impaction." "Reptile “calci sand” is not safe because it is too much of a good thing. It's made from calcium carbonate - basically crushed antacid tablets. ... This stomach acid is necessary to digest food and the supplement itself; once stomach acid is neutralized, the calcium carbonate will cause impaction." "Calcium-based sand is claimed to be digestible and thus safer, but it is digested too slowly to be considered a fail-safe option."
@@jaynecrafter2684 obviously eating too much is bad but that would only happen if didn’t properly supplement your Leo’s diet, so as long as they aren’t actively eating large quantities it’s fine and safer than eco earth
I keep 2, and they are amazing little animals. I would recommend them to anyone wanting to get a cool animal. And Brian knows his stuff. check out his Vlog channel. Thanks Brain.
Hey, I'm a massive fan. I have a sort of problem and was wondering if you'd be able to help me. I have three geckos, two female one male, and I'm trying to get them to breed. Problem is I'm not sure if my male is doing it right or if he's old enough yet. One of the females has bred a few times before so we thought ok she has experience so we put them together and kept our eyes on them. He bit her a few times and flinched but suddenly he got extremely aggressive and did and really big flinch. I panicked and separated the two with care. Then I tried with the other female who has never bred. He bit her and then quickly got extremely aggressive like he did with the last one. I did the same thing as before but then saw how the female was lifting up her tail and kind of curving it around so I don't know what's going on. All three are the right weight. I'm just not sure if I should wait for the male to get a bit older and bigger because I feel like he's young so he's not doing it right cause of being so aggressive
