Ultimate Primer - On Test (Priming Bandai AT-ST) 

thanks, I got quite a few hours of footage filmed, but time is really limited with the baby and work. once i get some momentum the videos should start to trickle through soon

do you get really bad tip dry at that high a pressure

No more than normal.

+Ron Zufelt I was just going to ask if you could thin it down for use with a smaller needle. Thanks.

you mean the extreme metal ones? I've actually got a few of those

Exactly. These are told to "replace" the previous popular Alclad paints and have allot less tendency to rub off or chip, and more so not require to seal in with varnish before applying decals.

Hi, I can still see your original comment in the emails so I know what struggles you had with the primer. It's a product that's divided a few people over the years, but what you see in the video is legit and I don't edit or try to make it look better than it is - I pay for my primer from ump I don't get it given to me and I don't work for them (though I'll fully admit to being friends with Paul and Lee, they're great guys). It's a thick primer that needs to be shaken a hell of a lot especially after a while on the shelf but I'm yet to find one which settles better. It IS a nightmare for cleaning out the brush and tip drying etc but I tolerate that for the result I get from it. I have found that Mr surfacer 1500 thinned with levelling thinner is also excellent if you are OK with managing the fumes.. That stuff goes down smooth and the brush is easier to clean afterwards, not sure if you've tried it but if you really can't get on with ump/stynylrez and have an extractor that might be an option worth trying.

@@ScaleModelMedic What do you use for cleaning it out ?

@@zondrakj typically I will try and rinse the brush with water to remove excess after I finish spraying, then use UMP airbrush cleaner to remove any residue, however just lately I find myself doing more and more cleaning with lacquer thinners due to the warm weather leading to more dried on residue.

@@ScaleModelMedic Thanks ! Would acetone be an okay lacquer thinner ?

androot69 Hi, Tamiya Primer is great, even from a rattle can, yet I thought I'd try Ultimate Primer as their AB Cleaner and Thinner is very good. Not had any issues with the primer (yet), but an unbranded model prep cleaner I have (smells like IPA based) has removed acrylic paint, even when well dry (48hrs). Good job I was after a weathered finish and as it was on plastic no harm was done to substrate/plastic. AFAICT Acetone will remove many acrylics, but can destroy plastic too. I guess that figures as acrylics are atomised plastics in effect. I hope that helps? I shall keep an eye on the UP and see how it fairs after a longer cure time.

@@musoseven8218 thanks. Let's wait and see

yeah it comes through even my best phone voice, I'm from the black country and still live there

ScaleModelMedic Me too LOL.

+John Sharpe Update :-) It went even through the 0.2 nozzle of my HS Ultra... It took some time, but still the same result...

you might get away with a .35 and just the slightest drop of thinner, but the tight spray pattern may not be ideal for priming

Hi, there has been a bit of a change with this primer (not UMP specifically, all of stynylrez primer) and there have been numerous batches with issues. I believe Badger may have changed an ingredient due to some of the various issues worldwide. I've had bottles which had gone bad. Ump themselves replaced the bottle for me, which was great service, but not being able to just grab this stuff and be confident in the result led to me using Mr surfacer and Mr levelling thinner as a primer on my more recent models.

@@ScaleModelMedic well poopnuggets, I was hoping I could use it instead of Vallejo (sandability) and mr surfacer (stink) after all the good things I heard about it, but stuff I got (whole 3 bottles of it, different colors, different batches) dries just... ridiculously fast. CBA cleaning airbrush every 3 or 5 minutes :| it's just too much.

You've picked the right product based on what you've just said about sanding and smell, it sands very very well after curing and its waaaaaay better than lacquer in terms of smell. With this in mind maybe we can get you going with the ump primer. I've read that in the past there have been issues whereby primer that's dried on the side of the bottle gets into the wet primer and therefore physically blocks the brush. It may be worth giving your paint a filter before it goes into the brush and seeing if that helps. It also needs to be shaken or stirred a LOT so that's something else to try. Failing that you may need to thin it if all else fails. I've never had to but then again I also had that bad batch, and that wouldn't spray for sh*t!!

@@ScaleModelMedic well, I just might have to say 'sorry' to badger primer. Yesterday I've primed some warhammer figurines with mr surfacer 1200 - it took forever and I'm not perfectly happy with the finish... it was first attempt with that product but people advertised it as liquid gold so I expected a bit... better. Got out of material before priming bases so ive primed those with vallejo and again, not exactly happy - some areas got flooded while others werent covered at all (deep creases with nearly vertical walls). So today I cleaned my airbrush, oiled it, 'primed' it with a drop or two of flow improver and tried spraying similar bases with one shot... black gave best results of all, mixture of black and sandy also works but leaves some orange peel (i'll have to see if it gets better once it fully cures). Perhaps the real reason of my issues was lack of oil on needle and pouring primer straight with no flow improver. Next time I'll try adding a drop of vallejo retarder, perhaps that stops the primer solidifying in the paint cup... or I just might get some badger AB oil and rub that on the inside of the cup, who knows, maybe that's what it needs? Like you butter cake mold so it pops out nicely xD I had some weird issues with brown oxide primer, it was super sticky, and not in regular primer way - it would leave some weird, rosin-y residue that even nail polish remover had issues with, so I gave up on that one. I shook the shit out of them bottles before pouring any primer, and I added 3 mixing balls to each bottle so I think theyre mixed enough... Ill have to try straining it next time, see if there's anything left on the filter.

Sure it will clean eventually with water if you don't let it dry but sooner or later you'll need to use something stronger for cleaning your airbrush. The same company selling this stuff do a cleaner which is really good

@@ScaleModelMedic yeah its just that its costs a fortune to get, if someones out of the uk...

Ahh OK sorry I didn't know where you were based. There are plenty of other things that will clean this as it's an acrylic. I have mainly moved over to using lacquer based stuff these days and lacquer thinner will get the residue out of a brush no problem whatsoever

hi how old is it? I've got bottles a year old that are still fine. also does your cap close correctly as I notice buildup can occur round the nozzle

had it for about a month. Only use it a couple of times without any issues. Used again last night and found it too thick to spray. Had to clean out the airbrush a couple of times for one model. I sure the cap is closed OK. I have heard other people also having issues.

I have never used it on PE but I think it would work ok. Badger's primer is pretty durable and it is nothing like any other acrylic primer. You can sand it without it lifting.

that's odd. what airbrush?

check your nozzle and your O rings.