ULTIMATE UPGRADES for a Prusa Mini! 

Great vid, I was thinking about doing this exact upgrade to mine. Thanks for the walk through!

You forgot to upgrade the extruder with the dual geared bondtech extruder 😁 I was having so much freaking trouble with the stock extruder grinding filament and then having to disassemble it constantly, I've never had a problem with it since replacing with the bondtech extruder

There is a 12v and 24v version of the Micro. How do you decide which to use? Also, if you commit to the Micro system,can you still use an E3d Nozzle X or are you committed to the Micro nozzle system because of their setup?

I actually did have to pull out the soldering iron when I replaced my mk3 hot end. I accidentally ripped the fan off. So I had to solder it back together. lol

I'm really late getting to see this and hopefully you could still answer my question. I have the Bondtech extruder on my machine and definitely like the sounds of the Revo kit. Would I still need or can I still use the MM10 piece that you mentioned with that extruder? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I go and start printing parts before I order stuff.

16.30 - there is a lot of movement in the assembly, is that normal or something wasn't tighten yet? A comparison of prints (before and after) would've been nice.

Thinking of doing a dual-z axis mod on my Mini now I have a Mk4. I’ve always had trouble getting the x-axis properly level and I think this would help!

Hi, I enjoyed your video, I own a voron 2.4 and actually building an Annex K3, but Prusa is a Prusa :P Your a nice talker!

What would be your recommended options of I wanted to print some abrasive material filament with my mini? I like the upgrade here but want to have the option to print carbon filament from time time but can’t find any hardened nozzles for the Revo.

Does the new input shaper firmware still work? The weight and balance should have changed?

I am guessing I might be the lone female and I’m neither of those people. 😂 Great video.

Great mod!

Actually I did some big updates to my Prusa mini now. The biggest one was to do the Dual-Z CK3D mod, wich I can highly recomment. With high quality lightweight extruders like the Orbiter, Sherpa, LGX light or TBG light, I see barly a reason to use a bowden setup anymore. Actually, after changing the hotend to the Revo micro, I also tried out Sherpa and TBG light (actually I like the TBG light more, but the Sherpa works great also). I decided for a moons motor - while both moons and lgo do great motors, moons use higher current (and therefore lower voltage), and as the controller controlls the current, I did not even have to change the current settings for the motor in prusas firmware (or in start g-code). But while the extruder is light compared to an mk3(s(+)) extruder, still adding weight to a conterlever design is not always the best. Also with the creality pad supporting the prusa mini out of the box, a mechanical stronger design for higher speeds seems apropiate. So adding a second z is absolutly an improvement (you have to modify ck3s's design a bit to work with a direct extruder, basicly cutting some conflicting plastic away (preferable in slicer before printing, but alternatively afterwarts with a drehmel). As I was modifying the printer anyways, I also changed the bearings to bushings - 2 IGUS bushings and one Ruthex bushing on y-axis, extremly silent and precise. Also one brass bushing and one self designed bushing with high clearence in z-direction for the printhead (actually, brass bushings have a very low tolarence fit; using two of them often leads the printhead to be stuck at the ends of the x-axis, if the two rods are only slightly missaligned by some micrometers). The self made bushing was simply changeing the hole of the bushing from a cylinder with 8mm diameter to two half-cylinders an a cube of 1mm by 8mm between - so you get a clearance of 1mm in z-direction and still a snug fit in x (so the printhead can not tilt). Actually while the printquality of the mini already was good, it improved further - and the mini became even more silent. Also I changed the coldend fan to a noctua (turning at a 100%, instead prusas fan with only 38%). I also plan to do the bed mod (physicaly level the bed). Also I search for a better part cooling (going faster with klipper would make that mandatory). For the cost of the upgrades the Revo system is a realy big deal. While the basic set is "just" about 150 bucks, one Obxidian is now about 74€. So with 0.4 and 0.6 Obxidian the price nearly doubles (but I have multiple printers and do not print abrasives on all of them the same time, so I only have one ObXidian set for now). Actualy there is realy an alternative to the Revo: Trianglelabs have the CHC-system. It is a bit simular to Prusas nextruder, you can swap out the heatbreak, heater and nozzle by disconnecting the two plugs and loosening one screw.There is also an integrated nozzle/heatbreak combo (for non-abrasive filament), but you can still use seperate nozzle and heatbreak - any v6-compatible nozzle will do. The CHC micro is about 40€, including 1 heater, 1 nozzle and 1 heatbreak. Aditional heaters are about 20€, integrated nozzles about 8€, seperate heatbreaks about 7€. Having multiple heaters means you can assemble your own combination once and than swap the whole combo - but still, if your nozzle or heatbreak or heater have a defect, you can just change the defective part. Also you have more flexibiltity - combine the heatbreak with a CHT nozzle, or a tungsten carbite or a ruby nozzle - whatever you want or already have. As they have a CHC with a coldend compatible to the Revo micro, you can use every hotend design intendend for the Revo micro also for Tranglelabs CHC micro (maybe very little modification to access the screw to loosen the heatbreak easy).

Why do you provide a link for the coupler needed for MM10 upgrade when it's a PC4-M10 as the two included with the Capricorn Bowden Tube w/ Cutter link? Something wrong with the PC4-M10 couplers from Capricorn?

Can you provide a link to a E3D Revo Micro you recommend? I have a 24V Prusa Mini+.

Do you need to change anything in the settings other than recalibrate Z?

Havent used my mini for a couple of months. Then upgraded firmware to the 5.1 and wanted to print something. Blower fan stopped working. With the spare fan I could prove that the original fan is indeed broken (so no firmware issue I would say). But heck, it came out of nowhere to me now : /

How does this update work out with the input shaper?

Hope we get a revo cht at some point down the line.

Isn't that USB drive that comes with the Mini kind of slow? It seems much slower than a newer USB drive I use.

Can you do a test print and show us how it goes?

what does that extruder part upgrade do?

I've heard capricorn boden tubes are a game changer. Could you explain why that is?

wow, cant believe it was that easy.

I am half way through and still wondering what the upgrade is or what the purpose is?

You forgot to do a test print. Would like to have seen that

Did you find you had to re-run PID after the install?

yeah I did my best on my cable management on my mk3, but it looks like a rats nets. Fortunately outside the box it's very clean. I'm happy with that at least, but I'm like......I did everything the manual said and yet it looks like a rats nest.

Walmart Joel 👍

i'm doing well and i don't get the joke ngl lmao

smack the shit out of it lmao sounds just like the way i think

Technically, content vise all good. Reception of you... Not my favourite kind of... Shouting. Cheers.

You lost me at "Hi my one female viewer, probably my mom". Females 3D Print too, but thanks for invalidating my love for the hobby in such a typical manner.

14:10 michael_scott.gif