Great video. Once I cleaned out drains works perfectly. Took me about 30 minutes to do both sides, once I figured out how to get the panel loose. Front ones just blow out with air.
Great video. Thank you. I have a 2014 VW Jetta Sportwagen that's been having leaking issues starting around 40k miles. Bringing it in tomorrow for another repair.
Thanks for this. I've just successfully managed to clean out the rear passenger side drain. I took it out by reaching behind the panel like you said. At first it seemed I couldn't reach far enough and all I could feel was the brake light wires and the soundproof padding. Then I realized I could pull the panel away just a little more and was able to reach past the padding. It wasn't easy. I'm 61 with arthritic hands and I was sure I wouldn't be able to keep a grip on the end drain piece once I had pulled it out of the hole. I had first tried pushing through it - with a straightened out coat hanger and then a plastic tie but it didn't seem to be getting through, so just went for it and pulled it out. It was full of sludge and completely blocked. I did cut off the "bug" tabs to make the opening bigger. Getting it back on to the plastic tube and then back through the hole in the metal body one-handed wasn't the easiest thing I've done, but I managed. Wouldn't have known this was possible without your video.
First, THANK YOU! Saved me minutes/hours of time from having to tear apart cargo area, replace tubing, etc... I opted to stealthily cut the fabric (following the contours) behind the storage cover by the light bulb access cover, on the rear driver's side for much easier access. The passenger side from the light bulb cover is a tight squeeze, for sure. I also cut the flaps off the bottom of the accordion tubes as you noted in the comments. Hopefully the top joints hold up (perhaps this is the root of all leaks?)...
This past spring, one of the joints on the roof was leading. I had to drop the headliner and silicone the joint. The leak was stopped, but these things don't seem very reliable.
I think I might be missing something really simple in fixing these. Couldn't you cut off the glued fitting up inside the headliner and replace the fitting with an inside brass barbed fitting and install a worm gear hose clamp to make a tighter connection. If the line is to short you could extend the piping before making a more stable connection. I'm just future prepping so I know how to tackle mine if it ever leaks. I have a 14 JSW.
I had a leak at the top last year and sealed it with silicone. Adding a fitting sounds like a longer term solution though. Hope you make a DIY video if the day comes!
I just cleaned out the rubber elbows again after a little over a year. They were stuffed with debris and one side was leaking into the car again. It took 15 minutes. Try this before taking your car to the dealer! Also, I decided to cut the flaps off the exit. I'm not even sure why they have them, after all, they lead to the roof, which is outside the car too. Very strange design decisions...
. Supposedly the bottom "valve" flaps prevent bugs and such from entering up the hose ... but instead, as we all know, all the valve does is collecte down-drafted debris, flower petals, leaves, dirt, and then CLOG and cause a backup, leak, and overflow. Perhaps I will add a clear neoprene extension tube to make the exit drainage tube end visible under the car to allow me to inspect the drainage qualities on demand. .
Ok, I've reached in as you say, find that black end piece and pull taking it off the drain tube in one motion or another... sounds easy enough. HTF do you "re-install" that piece, on to a flexible hose with one hand? Are you saying to grab hold and pull all the way back and out until you can see the point of attachment, work on it and then wiggle it back into place, somehow porting to the inside of the wheel well???
Thank you, would you now post one on how to repair/replace the pano's sunshade. I think most people never fix them since dealer prices are about 1,500 and up.
I did replace my pano shade two years ago. I wanted to make a video, but it was such a big mess that I didn't get a chance. It's way easier and cheaper than the dealer says. Buy just the shade from Alibaba for $100 or less versus (I think) $600-800 for the whole shade assembly from VW. Then, don't remove the headliner, but just drop the back of the headliner. Last advice: you shouldn't have to force anything. You know you are doing it right when everything just drops in place. Best instructions I found are from VW and available here: pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Pano_sun_shade.pdf Good luck!
The problem with tackling the drains from below is time and space. It's a pain to remove the wheel and wheel lining, plus the drain on the gas filler side is tightly packed between the filler hose and the chassis. It took me 15 minutes to clear the last year, no tools required!
The smallest diameter opening is at the drain's exit. Large debris could block the entrance, but if the debris clears the entrance, it will accumulate at the exit. Having said that, one of my pipes was slightly kinked. If a pipe is kinked, it would require more investigation.
Thank you so much for this. I managed to pull the valve out where you indicated and have that part squared away. However, you mentioned that sometimes the leak can enter through the back seat area (my back seat and driver seat floorboards are soaked)... is there a separate valve for that, and if so how do I access it?
@@mister914 Yeah, when I dropped the back edge of the headliner, you could see some rust from condensation where the hoe end had softened up and wasn't a real tight fit anymore. Some silicone and a hose clamp seems to be good, but if it leaks again, I will need to get a new hose.
I have a question for you if you still answer these comments.... Mine is leaking into the rear back floor board... can I still get to it from the way you showed?
The leaks from the roof can leak into the trunk or the rear floor. It's really just luck that decides where the water will go. Therefore, the fix will work for either condition.
If you have a sunroof, it's likely clogged in the back as I've described. Depending on where the clog is and the way the car is parked, the water can go anywhere from the rear seats, rear floor to the trunk.
Any roof will leak if the drains are clogged. I would suggest: 1. Check the trunk for water and damp. 2. Feel the carpet in the front and back. The VW has thick mats that don't dry out fast, if the car has leaked recently, you'll feel the moisture. 3. Try to reach in the tail light bulb doors (shown in the video) and reach down as low as you can go. There is more matting here that will hold moisture for weeks if there has been a leak. Also, clean your drains every year or two and you should be fine!
It's the same way on both sides. It's actually a little easier on the passenger side as there is more space between the felt trunk lining and the chassis.
anyone know if there’s drains on the front? i’m having an issue with leakage from somewhere under the glovebox when it rains, i had assumed it was the sunroof drain unless there’s only ones on the back.
I cannot even remotely get my hand in that hole, So I've pulled the trim off enough to get my hand in but cannot find the nipple (the hose was not in place so I can't just follow it down). Are there any instructions for pulling the panelling out of the rear of a MK6 wagon/estate?
I tried to remove the rear panels, but couldn't find all the fasteners. I'm not sure what to recommend beyond trying to feel around for the hole for the plug.
@@mister914 Thanks for the reply! I have the top exposed where the tube pinches (and it has), does the tube travel directly down from there or forward?
Found it, had to pull the trim from under the side window. Managed to get the tube back in, now I'll rotate it a bit to take the pinch above out, thanks a heap!
I've had leaks at the a-pillars too. First thing to check is the valves. They are a pain to reach. You have to lift the plastic cover that is under the wipers from the engine compartment. Reach far in and try to clean them with a finger. I couldn't find information on how to remove and replace them, so I suggest being gentle.
Thank you: CRITICALLY IMPORTANT REVELATION IN THIS VIDEO: cleaning and sealing the valve at the LOWER end of the sunroof drain hose. See RU-vid video [ zOcIRLpQDVg ] for the leaky non-seal between drain hose and sunroof drain fitting at the UPPER end. We HAVE to inspect and seal the ENTIRE drain hose from end to end, top to bottom, because just checking one end or the other, or one hose or another ( there are FOUR, one at each corner of the sunroof ) will not do, ALL ends and ALL corners must be checked, cleaned, refitted and re-sealed -- thanks again, very empowering. Note, our ancient GERMAN VW Passats have no leak problem, our newer Mexican VW Jettas and Golfs are horrible regarding these leaks due to horrible VW quality control, and horrible VW dealers who have no clue, and apparently don't know how to use the Internet, as they "pretend" to have no idea that this is a common problem, and the VW dealers have no idea how to address it, especially with enhanced parts rather than simply re-ordering OEM cracked, loose, and leaky crapola that's as likely to leak again as the original -- our Mexican VWs were DELIVERED NEW with these failures. .
