Can't believe y'all ate there. They recently found a dead guy in the walk-in cooler. He was wearing a sign that said. If only Arby's would have signed up for the MP maintenance plan.
Mike, those Diversitech disconnects are the best, I like that they open like a book so they are easier to access and work on. Great use of the existing circuit as well. Electricians are expensive.
gotta love those fine young men you have working for you. you can tell they were brought up in a good family. when i was working in the electrical field i had some good apprentices and man i had some sorry ass pieces of shits. remember guys every day you can learn something new especially in this trade. good job Mike for training these young men right.
@@PipeDoctor you know it too. I see you pick staff that all has the same chill personality. Pays attn to detail and is next level mental processing wise. It takes a certain personality with traits to do that. Sounds like you know them. Love.
Mikey Pipes, I love the splice above your electrical panel. Like you tell your customers, "You're gonna need an electrician, there's nothing I can do." hahaha
That motor winding question makes sense if you look at it this way… if it’s shorted right to the case…you will not get and Infinity reading (ol) on the fluke meters..you will get a real low ohm reading bc it’s basically welded itself to the case of the motor
is that the east coast version of an In N out? LOL.. Jumper wires always gotta have those!! your lineset takes up all your air flow space.. I do love my Fujitsu units... i dont use the wall warts.. I like the Medium static ducted units.. they move serious air and use the newer model units.. i life the control boards better in the latest models.. they are beefier and more programmable features
So, MI Heating guy takes the time to write you a nice letter, send a gift to Peter and you have to comment “I’m not a fan” bro you can only “keep it real” for so long sometimes you need to do the right thing and just say thank you. Think about that.
Mikey I was looking that up I didn't tell you but yesterday I saw that an infinite ohm reading was just the opposite meaning it's not grounded I never got to give you an answer but I was going to go with the correct answer. Damn it and I'm not cheating. Too late!!
All the training on Daikin and Fujitsu that I’ve done says never loop the line set vertically behind the unit you can go horizontal or zigzag but when you vertically loop it it traps oil in the line-set
That's the only way when the unit is installed back to back and it does absolutely nothing from experience i have units over 10years installed that way. Once serviced on time the only problem might be a capacitor every few years.
I also just took the Fujitsu mini split training last week and was told the same thing. Only lay coils horizontally if you are going to coil. They want you to zig zag back and forth to meet the min 16'.
@@PipeDoctor it doesn’t mean they always correct and this extra looping of tube is just unnecessary. I have had unit running with less than 4 feet indoor and outdoor for years no issue at all. Since manufacture suggest to add refrigerant volume base on each extra feet of line set, it will means the same that you can weight out the refrigerant if want to be extra caution to do shorter lineset. I went to Fujitsu onsite training before and they barely teach you anything.
Mike. I have a mini split that I installed myself. You mentioned to not use duct tape outside. I didn’t use duct tape I used Nashua tape around the pipes that go into the condensing unit for the last 6 feet you had mentioned to not do that. What would you use? I would like to do what you do because I love watching your channel. Thanks.
Nice install. Would’ve made sure the home owner sanded and painted the wall first. Maybe a taller ladder next time so you’re not drilling with your arms over your head. Besides that … quick and easy 🤙🏼nice job
Sure love my 18,000 BTU Fujitsu multi-zone XLTH unit for my upstairs space to complement my traditional split system for my main level. By having both of those systems running, both my Electric and gas bill have gone down dramatically over having electric portable heat upstairs and a portable A/C running in the summer. My walls are plaster so re-doing ductwork and have a zoned setup just wasn't in the cards for me.
Not so much what could you do better but? Question 🙋♂️ Was their a reason it had to be mounted up so high? Reason I ask is future servicing the unit ? I am (“assuming “) the control board an cap on top of the unit ….. But regardless I ❤ seeing an clean tex book install 👍( edit also I have ran into that same problem on some copper tubing.. on mine? The defect still showed on the 4th cut off retry. I came up with the conclusion it was occurring on the weld joint. An this roll of copper was unusually stiff!! kinda like a third leg in blue jeans🫣😎 …. But have you ever used the flair an swagging bit tools that go in your drill?? Omg I love them for repairing old hard copper tubing!!! The heat from friction warms the copper an keeps it from checking “ or splitting “ end of edit )
I would prefer remove couple ounce of R410a from the unit and use shorter copper lineset instead of wrapping them behind. Number of oz remove using the same calculation method as you would add when lineset go beyond precharge length.
there's other reason to have minimum line set lengths, like: buffer space the refrigerant to stack and smooth out the flows, so it won't go into cyclic ramping/txv hunting/error and lock out, more or less the sensors and controls needs time to sense and adjust accordingly. it also curbs the noise transfer from the compressor output and txv from being sent through refrigerant into the coil and making it noisy, with growling, hissing, chattering. the coils make fairly good "speakers" when the gas flow is rough.
Are the condensation pumps inside the units? I have little ones underneath each wall cassette, (Mitsubishi 3.5, four of five being used) and they all act differently, I’m assuming because each has different tubing lengths above them and to the unit outside..the longest one always runs longer I think because they left a big length of tubing that rises over a rafter, I’m afraid it can’t push a residual volume out so it keeps percolating..since it’s so new I guess I should have them come out and do a summer check so it doesn’t burn up the little pump..
@@PipeDoctor they’re pretty cool u throw it in your drill and it makes a perfect flare let me see if so can find a link to them we use them all the time on ductless splits
a few guys I know got the adapter to run dewalt batteries on their milwaukee stuff, seems the dewalt batteries hold up better and dont over heat, maybe they just explode, who knows, come to think of it, I havent seen those guys in a while... O.o
I think it will be under 150 microns y’all have a short run and big diameter hose and it’s a short hose too. So that’s what I think it will be at for 10:45
how close is that to the ceiling?? isnt there a minimum distance the unit should be from it? id say at least 4 for proper air circulation and operation.
Do you torque spec those screw terminals in the disconnect? Or at least yell "click!" when it feels tight enough? I would have liked that interior wall to be painted before hanging the evap, but that's not your responsibility.
I cut my line sets, braze them at evap connection instead of bolting together.. Those leak, ALWAYS, never seen one yet that didn't hence why i braze mine. No need in all that line set, just looks like crap... If their machine is overcharged then remove it. But it's charged for "X AMOUNT OF LINE SET" meaning if you are "LONGER" you need to add, you don't have to use 16ft of line set.
@@DCHVAC If that would void the MFG warranty, then i would find a proper brand that doesn't require garbage install requirements like a minimum of 16ft of line set when it's simply not needed! Plenty of other brands that do good out there. Pioneer for the win for people who want them locally where i am, they buy them themselves then pay me to install them. And they don't look like that BS with loops wound up behind them.
@@MedinaCliff I saw low ohms and I took that as being normal. I’ve had compressors with 0.6ohm windings. Motors with .3 ohm windings. It didn’t specify ohming it out to ground
U put a big unit, So it will modulate and will probably be fine but the instructions clearly tells u the minimum distance from ceiling and floor. Not trolling just pointing out something u may not have noticed. U do u
