Un Boxing a cheap 105cc Chainsaw 

"Low Kickback" Famous last words :)

I priced the 41" Stihl at my local dealer - $1,949.95. There's no possibility I'd ever pay that much for a saw, but $450 to do some light milling ... definitely possible. Thanks for letting us know about it!

I bought one of these six months ago and it is fun...heavy..but fun. Makes for a good workout.

Carburetor most definitely needs adjustment on the high and low ends possibly the throttle as well

Holy Shit. It’s a Stih 090. I used to run one of those bucking the giant logs nobody wanted else was to mess with. Thing was a beastie. And loud. Very little ppe back then. I was 19 years old. The thing was as big as me. I was paid $25/day. Good times. East Coast guys use long bars too. Colin, NJ

Looks real similar to the stihl chainsaws of the 1970s good video thanks

I just bought the same exact saw. Here are my issues: Not everything was tight from the factory, one of the studs for the bar was not screwed in. I can't get the chain to oil properly yet. Yes, same issue with the top end running speed, I know it is not developing full power. That chain tensioner screw... I hate it. I'll try using the dremel to make it deeper. Good idea. The clutch was loose when I got it, but running it a bit and the shipping coating burned right off. The smoke when that happened scared me for a good 10 seconds, until I figured out what had happened. I would suggest that it be cleaned BEFORE the first use for anyone reading this. The thing is a monster, and I am using it to get rid of a Cotton Wood that must be 5 feet at the base. Things that terrify me: No chain brake. Controls are not super easy to reach when running. No sprocket nose. Things I am pleasantly surprised at: It starts easily. The compression relief is only used (by me) if I manage to flood it. A few quick pulls to blow it out, and then it starts right up after you release the button. Yes, it weighs a ton. But once you lift it up on a log, it isn't bad, and I'm not fighting as much as I was with my 50cc 20 inch saw. And yes, the manual was actually in English.

I have the same power head that I purchased from Huztl it's orange instead of blue then I added a 36" Used but good Stihl roller tip .404 bar from a Stihl MS 880 that had to be modified for chain tensioner and oil holes no big deal and then spun a loop from a 25' roll of Huztl .404 bulk chain. Like yours it bogged down really bad, the fix was to adjust the governor setting because on these big saws the governor will close the choke when it is operating properly, this operation is to keep these big engines from over revving and blowing up. I suggest tach tuning if you have one to around 8500 rpm's but don't exceed 9000 rpm's or you will be flirting with disaster. It will pick up power after it gets broken in and once you get it tuned to your liking it should serve you well. At 1/3 the cost of a large Stihl or Husqvarna I would recommend it to anyone with the know how and ability too fine tune the saw to make it run proper. Make SURE you run at least a 32 to 1 oil mix 25 to 1 would be better if your using it to mill this will help to keep the cylinder temps a little cooler. I have a video posted of the unboxing of mine. By the way that Bat makes yours much more cooler.

Too funny that you see the instructions... and put them to the side and ignore them like all us guys would do lol.

Thanks for making the video

Glad tuning it up helped, when they "4 stroke" like that it's running rich. I like to get them to 4 stroke as the rich baseline then lean them out a bit to clean it up. I think my preference would be towards an old Husky or even a Mac off ebay (used), but glad this is working for you.

Wearing leg chaps. Smart, especially with no chain break. I need to get some when I use my Stihl.

Hint, place a few heavy rubber bands along the bar to hold the chain in place while you are installing it. It removes a bunch of hassle. A 42" hard bar is primarily for processors/ Fellers. Ya best wear cast iron leggings & Kevlar carbon fiber boots..

It's good that their QC was thorough with the oiling of everything .... I have a feeling you will like it. Haven't watched any more videos of it, so you probably already made another one with this saw, but I have a feeling it will be decent.

The Batman symbol has got to add at least 10 H.P. right? lol

I was thinking it sounded rich, but it might've been the recording. Glad you got it adjusted.

Appreciate the safety gear.

It'll cut up some IKEA furniture, I guarantee it.

That clutch issue should go away once the saw is run in and you gradually lean the engine out. That's actually just an issue where the engine isn't putting out it's full potential.

Call it your Bat Saw :-) I'm impressed with your obvious knowledge about chainsaws! Bought a Poulan Pro that had a bar clamp that was always coming loose because only one of the studs was exerting force that held the bar in place. This saw is much better.

I have a genuine Stihl 070 and I love it

I want this on every job!!!!

Nice video regardless of saw quality. Thanks.

Nice video. I have 8 very lace Oak and Chesnut Oak in my front yard I need 2 taken down due to their location. Debating on getting a chainsaw mill. I have at least 40’.- 50’ of tree before any branches start. I think it would make some nice wood to build something. I think that It would be a waste to cut it up for firewood.

That saw is awesome! I recently bought my first three chainsaws, and I immediately realized is better to use a long thin flat screwdriver (I have one like a foot long) to adjust the chain tension. That flat screw driver they provide may be good for something else, not to adjust a single chain, sorry. Did you soak the chain in oil before installation or, oiled it on its guide before the test cut? I feel is good to at least manually oil the chain before each beginning of cutting with it.

hilarious how the name is like Suzuki but with a Y ;P

If you remove the spike or dog teeth you can gain near 2" more cutting depth. With milling operation spike or dog teeth not required. Like the new 45cc chinese chainsaw I bought I had minor issues with it too - the pull cord handle came off. Had to tie a better bigger knot. Also the chainsaw file that shipped with it was a joke. Lasted not even 1 filing. Cheap Chinese steel. For the price these saws are a good bargain in my opinion.

You probably know this, but its a stihl 070 clone, best way to tune these is to temp (some do permanently) disable the governor that's under the recoil cover, then tune it in the cut, then set the governor to its highest setting (max rpm's), the governors work off air pressure from the flywheel, when the revs get to high it pulls the choke on, so the saw wont rev and sounds like its bogging. You can also get 137cc cylinders and pistons for these cheap, and a better clutch that has clutch friction material bonded to the steel for better grip from china

That’s like something I want to git. Good video

Cool vid. All these old style big engines should 4-stroke slightly when running free, and then come on and 2-stroke well when they are in the wood.

Looking at the log,as its part hollow, the saw is only cutting for about half to two thirds its blade length. If it was cutting the full 42'', would it?

Not bad batman nice big saw for the money

One advantage I can maybe see about having a hard nose bar IS that the tip is not used with milling, and you have the ability to tightly clamp the end of the mill attachment there without it pinching the wheel inside? My Timber Tuff (knockoff Granberg) mill will pinch the wheel if I want to use the full 20" mill capacity on my 24" bar, but I have to give up a little bit of capacity and set the clamp back a couple inches to avoid this if I want it firmly gripped. Hope that made sense. I'd just hate to cover up or wreck the paint on that awesome bat-crazy logo with anything!!

good vid cy ! good luck !

Thinking of the same saw for same purpose milling. Checking back soon

Interesting vid Thanks.

Good video I subscribed . will be watching the next one too . I'm a worn out chainsaw fan .

Cool video, uncle Cy.

Excellent video thanks

I bought the same one only its orange. I had all the problems that you are having but I know 2 strokes pretty good. I set the timing and the air and gas mixer on the carb and another trick is to use the highest test gas you can find or lets say about 98-100 oct if you can get it. They will do 8-10,000 rpm once you get it broke in. One good point about it is the muffler. Price one out here and its about 150-200 bucks. Good high end muffler. Im running 110 octane and its sings. Good luck chum.

thumbs up for Angus!

Leatherface would love it

That's a fine saw! It has some similarities to the 066 or 070 stihl as well as the breather style of the poulan 360 automatic from a few years ago. I personally like it!! A short cut of 4x4 under the bar tip will help with adjustment and lock down of the bar nuts. Good saw, great deal.

beautiful cat dude

The bar should only "read" right side up half of the time. If you flip the bar over each time you change the chain it will last longer.

Cheap 105 cc chain saw? I need a motor I can mount on a bicycle

I got a 22inch Chinese saw that is a beast. It'll cut Osage Orange like a boss

Thanks for the video

I hope you see this as I just bought the same saw. What brand/model chain did you end up using for milling with this saw?

Need to adjust the high side of the carb

Sthil 070 imitation similar to that of Huztl from what I've seen from other channels.

Nice job I'm slowly but surely

I've milled hundreds of hours over the years with my Husky 288. I spent more for the Husky obviously, but milling means running your saw full out, non stop for long periods of time. I would be curious how long your Chinese saw would last with the torture of milling.

I got me a Chinese saw from Ebay paid 80 I think the thing lasted about 2 months it was basic 20" bar, 52cc good saw just didnt last as long as i thought I wanna say the beast you got will last a good while! Cant compare the saw I had to your saw

I have been enjoying your videos for a while now but i just had to subscribe once your lovely cat made its glorious appearance.

I think the plastic deal at the beginning of the video is a engine lock up tool. You screw it into the spark plug hole so you can take the sprocket off with out it spinning

Now thats a chainsaw, awesome

A little carb tweeking you'll be GTG!

I was mesmerized. Way more interesting than it should be,. I think im getting old.

I love the Batman emblem on the bar👍🏼👏

Thankyou mate this was really helpful also really interesting and entertaining cheers

i ordered a bunch of parts from farmtec for my stihl and husqvarna parts were 50% on christmas

After a few tanks it will do fine

I liked the clutch

It appears to be an exact copy of an 090 Stihl, which is actually 120cc. Stihl dont sell them here any more as the lack of a chain brake in theory makes them dangerous, but the long bars that fit them virtually eliminate possible kickback, negating the need for a chainbrake.

That's a beast of a saw... after a few adjustments.... Cheers!

It's the batman logo that is great. Lol

Nice saw. Its gonna break in and run like a champ.

Holy ### that thing is huge

That is one big chainsaw!

No way in hell I'd ever pay that much for Chinese saw. I hope it gives you some good years though.

Bought the same saw manufactured by a different company. Started right up and I ran it thru the break in without problems (3 tanks). Pull start and ignition came off shaft (they didn't put lock tight on threads) Could not get the chain to spin. Found out clutch was installed backwards. Company would not replace clutch. Got replacement clutch (that's that white plastic thing - cylinder lock). Chain guard would pinch chain when nuts fully tightened. Saw now will not start at all. Company will not replace or refund. Total run time was about 4 hours. Otherwise great saw.

Great Vid!! Learned a lot; Tks for sharing, just subscribed. God bless!! Happy holidays 🙏🏻👌🏻

Cool saw, lovely cat 🐈

I would have like to see you push the manual chain oiler at least 20 times during the first cut.

Ran Homelite XLs and smaller for years and none had kickback brakes. Was lucky I guess but not stupid either. Worked with a crew that did a lot of brushing and a young woman after lengthy formal training was using a newer saw, with kickback brake, but it kicked back anyway and got her right in the middle of her forehead. Luckily for her just lightly but scared the snot out of her and everyone else. Plenty of blood and yowling. Brakes are probably good but sure as hell don't totally eliminate the danger.

The saw is great, it works great!

Sounds like a float plane. Not bad saw for the price

He giggling like a 5 year old on Christmas 🤣😂🤣

I buy the crap out of chi-com saws for rc planes. The engines are perfect for rc. Light, torquey, and cheaaaap. Alot of users have clutch issues. They claim to swap with stihl clutches.

Sounds like you need to lean down the high side a little bit

hmmm ...looks like a Stihl 090 copy.. btw, that plastic part in the tool kit is for clutch removal. you take out the spark plug, screw that plastic gizmo into the hole and then rotate the crank up to the plug, then you can unscrew the clutch with zour plug wrench. unfortunately those plugs often break when you put so gronk onto the wrench.

The Ebay add is hilarious.

l work in a home depot tool rental center and a few days ago somebody brought back the 2 chainsaws they were using on the christmas tree lot, they wanted us to clean them up and do some wear and tear maintenance so they would be ready for next year. and let me tell you, these are the cheapest chainsaws l had ever seen. l mean they are just for cutting christmas trees so they didn't need much but they were electric saws and they were totally made out of plastic, and it was a cheap feeling plastic. these things felt like toys, l am not even joking. even the log dogs were plastic and it looked like there was a chain break but l kept pushing it and it wouldn't move. turns out it's not a chain brake, it's just an extra handle that looks like a chain brake so there is no chain brake. and the "automatic" oilier for the bar oil was just a container with a pin hole in the bottom so it was honestly just a gravity feeder. which would explain why both the saws had a really greasy feel to them, if you don't lay them on their side then they leak oil everywhere. l looked them up on amazing and they were like $50. they were homelite saws.

And a good roller bar

put the bar on the saw then lay your chain over the sprocket and bar, next pull bar to remove slack, place cover and finger tighten nuts, pick up on bar as u adjust tension, alot easier

Just wanted to see the cool trailer.

my back hurts watching you unwrap that monster

Great video I love anything 2 stroke. I would definitely break in and tune carb also check into any governor to get it up on power. I love that saw buddy thanks

I think you are right. Go through the procedures and then work it for a while. It probably will do what you want it to do at an affordable price. I have a lot of experience with making used or cheap stuff work because i never had the cash for the high end stuff, and even if i did i would probably miss all the dinking around.

I would like to see you when you sharpen it!!!

I enjoyed your comments and giggles as you went on with the assembly. I suppose such a monster will definitely be dangerous, as you call it. Thank you for the hard work.

I would send it back .but if you like keep it . Not as much power as you would think or hope. Good video

All ways hold the end of the bar up when adjusting the chain and tightening the bar.

Power head is a lawnmower engine. Size wise. Man that's some kinda saw.

That little tube of grease that you picked up and said what was that for there is a little hole at the top of the chain bar that Greece's the sprocket in your chain bar. One push will do.

Lovable wee kitty. Awwww :)

LOL I thought you photoshoped the thumbnail but turns out this thing is FREAKING HUGE LOL

I bought a similar one on alibaba from hutzl ... its a redish orange cover. I've slabbed a few nice 25 inch red oaks with it, with a 36inch bar. I think mine also needs some help on the high end. How did you make that adjustment and how do you know when its right? I'm not a very experienced chain saw mechanic, but pick up things pretty quickly. My saw is also missing maybe 1 or 2 rotations of the chain adjustment screw ... would love to see what you did there as well in more detail. Great vid!

Good job on the vid , I have been wondering about a saw like that , I am thinking when you get the bugs worked out , it will be just dandy ! way back I had a heavy no frills Poulan chain saw , no kick back brake , no roller tip bar , just a good ole powerfull saw , after say 10 years I traded it in on a 034 Stihl 20 inch bar , that was 22 years ago , I still use it . Anyway good job !