Mrs?!?! They need to get their facts straight. Also apologies, it’s a big scam going round on RU-vid atm. Nothing I can do really except delete them (and then they keep making new accounts) but thanks so much for flagging it up.
Imitation is the greatest form of flattery…😬 is what I’ve been told, but fuck that some people SUCK and need to get a life!!! It’s only because your literally a guys dream chick..or at least every dude who works in the trades. Some chicks are just kooks
I will agree with you all and add that i was tought to use brown paper, and for that matter the iron was a proper old fashioned non electric one. Also it's not good for the soldering iron , particularly the tip, to be constantly heated and the effectively quenched.
Regarding the (US vernacular) hole saw (the things that look like a saw blade wrapped into a circle) and precision... I'm a machinist, and build motorcycle frames, and hole saws do have the ability to be precise with "One Simple Hack" [tm]. Put the hole saw in your drill press, run it at a low speed, then use a belt sander to whittle down the diameter until it cuts on size.
Playing cards as spacers of infinite thickness (almost) and also protectors from glue, glue scrapers. Get the cheapest plastic coated ones. They don't stick to wood glue. I buy ten packs at a time, cheapest ones I can find. I don't mix cards from other makers in a deck, as there could be differences when you need to space out two ends evenly, but when you have 10 of the same decks at a time, you can just have a big stack and they last forever. Also, they're easy to cut.
A caution about clamping a plane. Vice pressure can crack the cheeks. Cast iron is not flexible. Be sure to set the jaws as close to the sole as possible.
Another tip if you might find useful. Use a drinking straw to scrape glue squeeze out from tight angles or hard to reach places. The straw's opening will deform into the shape of the angle and scoop up the glue squeeze out. If you are using a paper straw you will have to cut of the end as it goes soggy, but you will get a good run out of one if you are careful how much you cut off to find non-soggy straw.
Regarding the non slip glue trick, I've used a little sprinkling of salt added after the glue is spread, it adds coarseness to keep the work piece from sliding and doesn't affect the joint in my experience, just dissolves away
Instead of a soldering iron, use a regular iron like the iron that you can iron your clothes with. It has a temperature setting on it and you can adjust it more finally and it won’t burn your wood, but still only get the dent wet with a paper towel. Works great. It also can be used over the hole project to pull different parts of the wood up to give it a unique look.
Another anti-slip trick for glue-ups is to sprinkle a few grains of sand or salt into the glue before putting the two pieces together. It provides enough friction to stop the slippage but doesn't affect the joint.
This is a horrible thing to do to your tools. Either you are dulling them by scrapping them with the sand, or you are causing them to rust faster by applying salt.
I used to be anxious about sharpening. Once I was just alright with ruing my tools, a lot of practice, and a ton of youtube videos, I have to say that I enjoy sharpening now. so my tip would be to fall in love with sharpening.
Only found your channel about 48hrs ago and have been binge watching whenever i get chance. I'm definitely not musically talented, believe me I've tried lol. I am a kitchen installer that has been wood working for 30 yrs, yes I'm getting old. love your skills and the witty underlying comments. Now a subscriber with all notifications turned on. look forward to the next one. Thank you for your hard work.
It’s already been mentioned, but the table salt trick is one of my favorites for slippery glue-up solutions. With that said, i’ll definitely use the CA trick on smaller things! Thanks Daisy!
Thank you Daisy. Similarly, we'll use a spot or two of hot melt glue when gluing items such as cabinet toe kick to eliminate brad nail holes where totally flat isn't an issue. Works on attaching stair rail rosettes on walls to anchor wood 'til adhesive sets.
If you are going to use that idea, I've had better results putting a scrap of painter's tape down, then the glue then remove the tape for a clean surface
To hopefully clarify, it stacks up this way. Scrap lumber as base. Layer of painter tape, super glue, more painter's tape, underside of the work piece. When desired easily pried apart and tape stripped away clean. @@AndreaCuchetto
Love your tips and tricks, here is one if you have a split in the surface of a guitar top, you make a thin long piece of 'spruce that is sharply triangular (in profile) and with a bit of clear glue place it in the split, after it dries sand it down, Bobs your uncle, one hidden split. Iv'e heard it said that a good luthier is one who knows how to hide his/her mistakes, (as it can be a challenging task to make it absolutely perfect all the time :). Oh a glue has to be hard or the vibrations don't travel through the instrument, plastics like pva are soft and stop the sound, this goes for all joints, hmm like a neck joint. Used the damp cloth tip when we move a piano across our lovely floor, no more wheel dents, I was 'reliefed ' :) just hot wet tea-towels, it worked. Oh dents in ebony fretboards, a bit of ebony saw dust and superglue works a treat, hard as nails, just like the old ebony which is very very hard like iron, one can cut the fret slots after.
Great video Daisy. A trick that was a game changer for me was the masking tape and super glue trick. Or known as the blue tape and super glue method. I find it way better than double sided tape. For anyone who doesn't know it's simple. Put masking tape on your work piece. Then put masking tape on the corresponding, let say template. Put a bit of super glue on the masking tape on the work piece. If you have and spray excelerator on the tape on the template. Then simply align both and press down. You can route the work piece to the same size as the template and the template isn't going anywhere. When done pull them apart because the only thing holding the pieces together in the tape. I use it all the time for a variety of different jobs, like a quick way to keep a cutting guide in place whilst using a circular saw. It will come in handy a lot and has saved me a few times.
Change just use to face tape that's what it was me for! Also you using two very expensive products to achieve the same thing and spending more time at it! More monkey see monkey do no logic required here is it
@@makenchips The logic is that blue tape consistently holds well _and_ isn't too thick _and_ removes cleanly without tearing, leaving residue, or ripping out wood fibers _and_ allows separate application to each surface which aids alignment without compromising bond (or, again, taking up too much space for an interfacing foam layer) _and_ serves double duty protecting against tearout _and_ is a readily available _cheap_ commodity product just about anywhere _and_ isn't easily confused with some other product which might end up ruining your project, whose raw materials cost way more than any roll of tape ever will. You're also going to already have it anyway, since it has so many other uses. And what are you smoking, blue tape expensive? 1" x 60 yards, $5. I've no idea what "to[sic] face tape" is supposed to be, but two sided tapes offer maybe 1/4 the coverage (accounting for the doubled use of blue tape) per roll if you're lucky, for about $20. Carpet tape will come in slightly cheaper than two-sided tape but fail to hold, ruin your surfaces, or both. Blue tape/painter's tape stands alone in being the only tape that's actually designed to be removable and maintain a firm but _delicate_ hold. You _can_ use something else, but every unique product will be a gamble. Congratulations on getting lucky with results, but I doubt you actually did the math on cost.
@@HonoredMule Yards, inches, knots... I'm waiting for people to finally understand that the metric system is just simple. I understand that when you're born in the US you think in fractions of inches, but it's like I'm using a lot of different measurements. One is x/16, the second is x/2, the third is x/48, the fourth is x/4, etc. Do you understand my point? Now imagine the same system as a monetary one. In the store you pay 12/34 of an inch with 3/14 of an ounce, and in the wholesaler you pay 3/4 of a bucket of cement, which must be enriched with 35.2739619 ounces of water. Instead of constantly jumping around, I just simplify the system.
5:14 The paper towel trick is good reminds me of one I found to bring out dents in laminate flooring, you wet a tea towel, place it flat over the dent and then run an iron over it with steam, checking often on your progress. Not sure if this would work on guitar wood but maybe worth an experiment!
planed pencil improvement: lay the pencil planed side down and lengthwise on the middle of a piece of wide packing tape placed sticky side up on your worktop. fold the sides of the tape up around pencil and adhere them to each other. This protects the lead and your surface and gives you a tab to hold on to.
That super glue anti slip tip is a brilliant one, I’ll be nicking that. I was messing around with tooth picks through the fret slots last time i glued a fretboard onto a neck
I noticed in your ukulele build that you could use this tip: Use a straw to clean up glue squeeze out in tight corners. It forms into the space well, can continue to load up inside the straw as you go, and can be rinse out easily enough for future use.
I love that trick for rough work but only recently discovered how easy it is to sprinkle too much and be left with a seam that wont' sufficiently close in an even slightly awkward clamping situation. I ended up having to scrape away the salted glue and start over.
I see your planed pencil and raise you a marking knife (proper one with a flat side, not just a pen knife). It's not only more precise, it'll also last basically forever. Inner tube clamp is brilliant.
Thx for the tips! Another: If you need some more flex, you can use elastic stretch bands, the kind you get from your fysiotherapist. I find for glueing tops, backs or fretboards, for me, this works also very good.
Washer trick was good I like that.. and here's one back.. clear packing tape on anything you use to clamp, or your cauls.. that you don't want wood glue sticking on.
the very first tube i saved has been laying around for years. Ever since i thought of them as huge, bump resistant, quite waterproof condoms for flashlights, lighters, tools, the one crappy, 5 bit in a handle combo socket screwdriver, that failed to lock only 10 minutes after you paid for it the supermarket and plenty,plenty more I realised how great it is to have them salvaged, especially diferent sizes, as mostly you will use like a couple cm. Well... the rubber saves lives. Embrace it as you like
I will also say about the drill-lathe tip, if you need to remove a lot of material very fast and dont wanna hold it to a sanding block all day, you can take the drill to a belt sander and make sure the spinning drill is going opposite to the direction of the belt, and just give it hell full speed, carefully hold it to the sander. Keeps it nice and round, takes a ton of material off quickly and you can do easy tapers like that for starting deeper dowels or making tuner or bridge pegs and so on. Love the channel, very nice to see young people getting into hand making guitars and especially women getting into a male-heavy field.
The upside down plane trick is a good one. I clamp my No8 on it's side and run my tops and backs along it to create a joint, I find it much easier than a shooting board.
I work on metal for a living and I often use the "finger depth gauge" to get a parallel line to an edge for, say, a row of rivets when the actual distance does not matter a lot. The bicycle tube is great, another alternative is the so called surgical tubing, it's flexible latex tube that can be had in different sizes.
When gluing two pieces of wood that may slip, instead of super glue in the middle, sprinkle a little salt on the board. The salt will prevent the boards from sliding.
the bike tube is a very old school thing when riving wood, but traditionally it was a thin strip of leather. the plane upside down is common for staves in coopering. when using nails and predrilling holes, you can use a nail as a bit, but then put a little plastic circle on the nail to keep from marking the wood with the drill chuck.
For very accurate holes, i use a Rotabroach or the Evolution Tools equivalent Not cheap, but very accurate (I use them in steel) and they are spot on and stay sharp for years of use in steel. They will also leave the centre portion in place. The only drawback for you is that the shaft is 20mm so you would need an adapter for a drill chuck. If you want to go down this route, i could make an adapter for you on my lathe so you can use with a normal 13mm drill chuck
An old woodworking guy writes: A pencil with the wood on one side planed away is sometimes called a "mouse" - draw a big sketch and you'll see why! Holding a plane upside down in the vise is a good trick - but when you do it with a bailey type plane make sure the plane is LOW in the vise jaws - otherwise you can snap the cheeks off as you tighten the vise.
If you own a drill, you can make your own washers. Years ago I need a special washer. A washer with a 1/4-20 treads in the center hole. So I made my own.
That superglue on glue joints *Facepalm moment*, sometimes it's the simple things that elude our thought processes. I use Titebond and I've found that if you wring the joints together and just leave it for 30 seconds to initially 'grab' before clamping, most of the time things stay where they are supposed to, but this tip will just speed things up. Thanks for the tips :)
Watching Top Gear I learned from Jeremy Clarkson "bog roll" = toilet paper Watching Daisy Tempest I learned "kitchen roll" = paper towel I feel so worldly now....
Boatbuilders will take a piece of PVC pipe and cut off 1/2 wide "bracelets" to make instant clamps. You can cut out sections of the bracelet clamps to fit the width of the pieces you need to clamp. Need to clamp up some 1/2" ply, cut a 3/8" wide section out of the PVC bracelet then snap it in place. The cool thing about it is you can make 20 clamps in less than a minute or two. Need a bigger "clamp" cut it out of 4" diameter PVC etc. etc. Thanks Daisy. The bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrfffffffff at the end is classic. I took the time to share this tip with you because I care about others, more than even myself. My middle name believe it or knot is "others." Cheers!
It's not often to see a girl, and rarely still, one with the english accent giving tips on woodworking on YT. Enjoyable and refreshing to a point that I can't recall the tips you gave! 😊
After watching your vdo for the first time, I went back to watch your other clips on musical instrument making that I skipped earlier. I am a retired engineer who still play the guitar/uke at gigs/street side just for fun; and I usually know a skilled craftsman when I see one. You really are one of them.
1:46 tip picked up some time ago from Paul Sellers: when clamping metal plane in a vice, wings(sides) can break off, but if plane is lowered so vice jaws grab sides of soul of plane, you an squeeze as much as you want. cheers
When messuring to the middle of something (say drawing a lie down the middle of a plank with a combination square, or your finger depth gauge) I would recomend draw the line from both sides. If you messured perfectly the second line will sit perfectly on top of the first line, In real life you end up with two parallel lines right next to each other and the exact mid point is between them. Accurate first time without agonising.
Also, to add to this (although, hopefully you'd know this before marking the lines), if those lines are parallel then both sides of your piece are flat and also parallel.
Great tips, ty for sharing 👍 Something I do to minimize the float or slide aspect of trying to glue boards together is to sprinkle a little sand or salt on the glue, then clamp....... works great.
I really like the paul sellers tip for dents which is really similar, he does a damp rag and a normal iron for clothes to get dents out, it seems a little more forgiving than the soldering iron
Love these thank you for legitimising me using my plane in a vice, although I'm always worried I'm going to plane off my fingertips... My top hacks Super glue + masking tape clamp - masking tape on both sides of whatever you need to clamp in place, superglue on masking tape, hold down. Done. I used this for so many tasks, met at first with incredulity by the tutors - either that will never hold, or that will never come off. It works every time, you can plane against it and if you really need it held down you can burnish the masking tape down for extra hold. Addendum to this: masking tape for everything. I use it to leave notes for myself, to transfer marks for mounting stuff to walls like extension cables, to bundle up toothpicks... hold bindings in place even. Depth gauge on a dril bit. I'm convinced there's nothing masking tape can't do. AND an extra hack. Cut up a whole roll into quarters or shorter and you've got perfect size bits for jobs like binding or masking off the fretboard. I love masking tape! Alex Bishop also showed me a great wood filler hack... use a scraper to get little curly bits off of end grain of whatever wood you need to fill, mash those curls into the gap, then drip some titebond on that. Then sprinkle more end grain curls. It dries so much quicker and shrinks so much less than sawdust and titebond as a filler, and it looks a lot more natural (e.g. less uniform, like sawdust which is all one blob). I keep a bit of towel in my apron to check grain direction if I can't feel or see it well, the towel or any cloth will feel roughness going against the grain Finally one I discovered myself was using those wing mirror blind spot mirrors - convex mini mirrors basically - as interior inspection aids. Dropped into a soundhole, they can be angled and show a lot of the inside of the instrument a lot better than a flat little mirror like a dental mirror. I'd love a good tip or hack on how to get plane blades angled square, I do it by sight and then use a scrap piece of wood to check and adjust but it would be good to have a reliable way to just make it good right from putting it in the body
In stead of super glue to avoid the wood from slipping, you could just sprinkle a bit of fine salt. The salt will be dissolved in the glue rather quicly but will remain formlomg enough to stop the two pieces of wood from sliding around in the wet glue😀
I use a Jay Roller. Its a 3 inch wide one. Its a Formica and Veneer roller by design. I use it alot for myriads of other uses, and anything with glue, adhesive, tape, etc... I use it to roll tape down really excellently before drilling holes, or cutting a line with no burrs, etc... the skys the limit. It also is great for rolling on decals to perfection. Here is a technical write up example from a store: "Specially designed for applying laminate as well as veneer, the J-Roller provides 20-25 PSI for positive bonding. The wide non-marking rubber roller is ideal for flush work."
I have used the water soaked rag and hot iron (for clothes ironing) to create steam pressure. My father was taught to soak the dimpled area with alcohol and light it so the heat from the burning alcohol fumes create steam in the wood fibers. The wood doesn't burn since the fire disappears when the fumes are exhausted.
I figured out Craft glue and cinnamon fills and stabilizes loose or missing knots & cracks in wood especially if being stained , unlike gule and sawdust or just glue that doesn't take the stain. Works & smells fantastic with all types of wood and veneers.
Thank you very much for the tips. A trick I use a lot is masking tape and super glue. I saw it on the Crimson Guitars channel (sorry to mention the competition, but it's very useful). Many times, when I want to glue pieces of wood in a certain position; I drill 2mm holes and use a toothpick as a guide. Another trick is to use the masking tape as a fan; a strip of tape is placed around a bit, so that a flap is formed with it; and turning that will blow the dust and wood shavings; improving vision.
For the dent, I like to lay a glass slide on top of the damp paper towel, helps distribute the heat more evenly and you wont have to worry about accidentally scorching.
