I'm the customer here, thanks so much for the battery man I've been having a blast with this thing daily hitting 45mph easily and hanging with the cars! 😁
you can use abs plastic & epoxy to make a cap, then use the same glue to put it on, also you can cut the heat-shrink to size & connect it with superglue although in this case it wouldn't work well because of how the battery fits in the cradle
Great vid Tommy,, I'm fascinated with the whole idea of building e-batteries, and one day I'd love to have a go myself at making one for a future e-build... Whilst watching when showing the heat shrink end results it got me wondering - Tommy, have you ever considered to the idea of getting a 3d printer to like print the extra plastic framework for the now extended size of the battery, and for printing out the finished battery's cases that you make ppl? 3d printing isn't something i know anything really about, It just got me thinkng it would (or maybe would) be a better idea for making batteries for customers - maybe it's just me, but i think batteries look so much better in a proper case, instead of being heat-shrink wrapped. I don't really know if 3d printing a battery case is relatively cheap/feasble to do as far as cost is involved? I guess it just got me wondering if it's something you've thought about doing as you make some damn impressively powerful E-bike batteries - and you make a lot of them it seems for people. I was also wondering why it is Tommy that you don't seem to use a bms (that often) when you're making batteries? Is it because the bms is a limiting factor in the power output of the combined cells of the battery? Or is there some other reason, is it maybe just to keep costs down? Another thing i was wondering is the ebay bought battery i have is a 52v20ah and it just fits in the small triangle frame on my "Scott 'voltage'(ironic, i know!) YZ4 26" mtb e-build bike frame (spooky that i blindly bought a mtb to do my very first e-build and the bikes called 'Voltage YZ4" ain't it?!...but I was wondering if a 60v cells set-up would fit into the same small case, like can you get higher voltage indivudual cells that instead of 52v, then you can fit 60v power in the same plastic battery cover space-or is it the higher the voltage you just need more of the same cells to make it from 52 to 60, or 72?... 'cos my 52v20 battery size is (..i think) the absolute smallest size case available for yhis amount of cells maybe required to get 52v power...? And what was your very first Volts/Amps battery that you made yourself Tommy? I hope you don't think I'm asking dumb questions, and sorry for the amount of reading too! - it's just my battery knowledge is lame, I perhaps really need to watch a whole load more vids on the building batteries process 😂 Cheers for any answers to my questions, its just am v.interested in learning how to build my own at some stage. If i had the money id be asking you to build me one, but its tricky what with me being in the UK too mate, damn i wish i lived near you! 🤣👍
Must use bms. 60v to 72v, just add 12v battery in series with equal amp hours. Both 60v and 12v having separate bms and chargers. ie just add a 12v lifepo4 battery with equal ah and continuous amps. Simple 👍
You can up voltage with a lifepo4 battery for any bike. 48v to 72v? Just add in series a 24v lifepo4 battery with equal amp hours and continuous amps. Charge both batteries separately and both batteries retain their bms for safety and long life. No need to disconnect either battery while charging.. I am a PSU engineer btw
Don't get bogged down by numbers. If you have a 72v controller, it does not care if you have a 63.9v battery or a 74.7v battery. Just add voltage until you have the speed you want. Standard 36-48v controllers can handle 52v but not higher without higher capacitor and mosfets mods.
You can use heatgun to soften the upper casing, just cover it while it's hot. This will look at lot more professional.👍☮️ Something I don't understand is you have to redo the entire pack if you want to go from 52 to 60v... It seems you just increased the capacity by adding an extra module in parallel but I might be wrong
I saw on another channel saying that one of your batteries in a customer's bike caught fire. Is it yours? And what happened? It looked like soldered on solid copper wires. Thanks
As a third-party witness, it was more like he assisted someone in building their own battery who didn’t have the tools, but the method used and the lack of BMS were the customer’s decision. I specifically asked DUST where the BMS is, and he said Jehu Garcia said he doesn’t need a BMS, and I said “save that email for when the fire trucks arrive”. That battery only had one snake bus, the other series connections had I believe 4x AWG copper wire, enough for 240a continuous and 720a peak. The only snake bus was along the top and I think it had 2x AWG12 wires, good for 120a continuous and 360a peak in open air, but when using Molicel p42a as heat sinks, it can take more for longer. Would a BMS have prevented this? No idea because not sure the other evidence. The BMS will protect during charging and also during discharge. And you can definitely start a fire when you allow a brick to drop to 0 and then get reverse bias charged as you try to drive further. This is especially dangerous on a 26s pack because the dead brick missing voltage is masked by the other 25 bricks. Was the battery wrapped, protected, padded properly? That was done by the owner. So if it bounced around and knocked a AWG12 wire loose, thats not E-bike guys fault. If Dust showed up and dropped off his bike and the battery was built and installed with no input from Dust, then that would be a different story.
Also...when I worked construction...our company ordered a fleet of brand new 1500 Chevy trucks...5 of them caught fire within a week. Electrical fire. Nobody out here saying don't buy Chevrolet...why is that? Lol
@@E-bikeguy so you have to take it out of its shell and attach a charger to each grouping whenever you want to charge it? Or do the cells individually have protection?
Hi mike i have a VARUN ebike peak is 750W it claims it goes 40 miles but its false cause i can only go 20 miles mph cause it has a 48V 374.4WH battery. I do believe the manufactures dampened the power of this bike cause the battery doesnt help me with range at all. and whats funny when i move it up to 5 power i see the 25mph pop up on the lcd screen but then it drops to 19mph I wonder is it possible to mod this to travel further and go faster ? I can put the link in it if you like to see more description of it
