That guy is is in damn good shape! Never gave up and paddled through the whole gigantic set! Made every duck dive through that massive white water. RESPECT!
Its not that crazy, its just surfing shape. When you are inside like that you'd be surprised how long you can paddle for - adrenaline helps plenty. I got caught inside at impossibles @ indo this year and it wasn't fun. But you just keep paddling.
+ostraspt Of course you can get caught inside somewhere with a channel, teahupoo, pipeline, etc. Rogue sets and waves happen all the time. Look up "caught inside mentawaii"
Once he'd committed there's no backing out, can't just call time-out if you don't like the way it's going. Epic paddle out, that is an arm\shoulder killer.
Looking out the window - that's a paddlin'. Staring at my sandles - that's a paddlin. Going out during a huge set - you better believe that's a paddlin'!
Gnarly man. This was actually motivational lol I'll probably remember this the next time I'm paddling out on a big day. Maybe it's not impossible! Just duckdive efficiently and keep on paddling
I would say it's not the paddle so much as the duck-diving and positioning that impresses me. That was a 2:30 paddle. We could all sprint paddle for 2:30. Heck, I'd be grateful for that in big waves. I've had 30 minute paddle outs many a time. On a short board against 12' - 16' waves with no rips. You just settle in and keep going. But that duck-diving was PRO. And the lines he took. My hat off to him.
I could sprint paddle for ten minutes back in the day. Stay in the surf for six hours. I went out last week and after 3 minutes through constant white water sets I was in rough shape. Don't know how long it took to get out but seemed like forever, couldn't have been more than 6 minutes. Sat outside for fifteen minutes before even thinking of paddling for a wave. Getting old blows.
I did this sort of thing when I was younger and it always was so much fun. The vibrancy, the taste of seaweed and salt. The frizzle and popping of the eggbeat. It was joyous! Ducking under waves before break no problem. If in the splatter, let your body go limp. Wait, and wait briefly after surfacing to not inhale foam. Inhaling foam is like swallowing 6 egg yokes at once.
.....and furthermore...In larger waves...and i mean huge.......curling into a ball is much safer as letting the body be limp leaves arms and legs exposed to violent forces.......allowing injury to occur easily.
I have been caught like this before and it totally and completely sucks. I would have spent the next 30 minutes sitting outside resting my rubber arms😂😂
Because the sweep is a pain. I paddled from palm beach in an attempt to get out at Burleigh... one wave to get through i abandoned board and dove, board in two parts. Paddled the arse end in and a clubbie gave me the rest of it. Gutted.
The worst is when you start getting close to the line up, and then you see everyone start paddling like crazy away from you meaning theres a huge clean up set coming in haha
Well done indeed, a solid effort there. I was never a good surfer when I was younger but i had a strong duck dive and was ok at paddling - that guy blows me out the water
mate am I correct in assuming that this places name 3rd letter is T.and if so ,have you ever seen the the wave that breaks 3 or 4 hundred metres to the right,saw it in 91 but too nervous to surf,me lived in Indo for 5 years and other surfing joints,but me never seen a better wave., the 3rd letter to this break is maybe P, is I correct or stoned
Yeah you're in the right spot. I've paddled out where you are talking about and had some screamers come through, pretty rare. it does break pretty much on the rocks though and seen a few bloodied heads.
This is the reason I joined The waterpolo team and the swim team in high school! To get in really good padding shape. I played 8 seasons and it helped tremendously when I began to surf bigger waves.
i was there at this spot yesterday, two leg ropes snapped. when its solid here, its pumping everywhere on that coast, so no need to secrefy it but go on.
I know that spot, actually my recollection is that it could be me. A lot of sand moved off the reef from previous winter making the left beach break absolutely hollow for spring and summer. The main reefbreak does what you see here in those conditions. West Coast rocks, just gotta make it to the lineup! Hope I haven't disrespected the spot, just felt reconnected after while out of the water. Nice video and great narration IMHO, thanks again for posting this.
Really? What’s the name of the spot then? Your comment is 2 years old, this - original - vid was published before 2013. Just curious what spot it is. Lemme know if you don’t know, I’ll help you out, because I have surfed there many many many times and your name rings no bell
@@rossrcfallacaro3422 damnn gotta call him out like that lmfao. you either remember it was you or it wasnt you bro, probably the worst timed paddle out of ur life
