Hi Mike Just a quick question. When I put the clutch ramp assembly back in and tighten, it seems to still spin freely and there's no tension on it so as to adjust the clutch leaver. Am I doing something wrong?
Holy crap I can’t remember!! Pretty sure you have to keep tension on the cable at the lever so the cable doesn’t fall out of the ramp. Other than that, I can’t really think of anything that would keep you from setting it up. My apologies for not getting back quickly, let alone knowing a solid answer!! Good luck and hope you get it knocked out!! 👍👍
What ever happend to the full review? Thinking about doing this, I do highway on my 883 and its just a bit too buzzy around 65-70, but I also don't want to mess with a speedo being off. How do you feel about this 5 years later??? How did you feel about it then? I see you say it dropped you about 450 rpm, how was your speedo? How was your torque affected? As I understand it, this doesnt affect the best part about the 883 (the spunk), like a bigger final gear does.
For starters, thank you for this question! It takes higher revs leaving a light, but it gives you a longer first gear. It was way better after the 1250 conversion, but it did work with the 883. After taking off from a stop, it didn’t really feel any different than with the stock primary. I zero change to my speedometer because the difference was the teeth on the primary sprocket, not the pick-up for the sensor. It basically took away the buzz, and made the bike more usable for me. When I did the 1250, I could’ve changed the sprocket, and had even more gear but I never felt I needed it. It’s a great upgrade for someone whom want to stretch their legs on the highway, but doesn’t want to invest in a stock 1200 Sporty.
@@WetBananaMikeOK, that's good news, I picked up the combo (alternator and sprocket/ chain) for 50 bucks, figured worst case I've spent more on worse. I am planning the 1275 hammer kit in the near future as well. I was more worried the gearing for a larger engine would leave the 883 feeling too sluggish while I wait for the 1275 kit. I did pick up some stock 1200 heads, which hammer said would get me from the 83ish hp/tq with the stock 883 heads to around 98ish hp/tq. I suppose if you didn't feel too much low end loss from the 883 and this configuration, I think I'll be just fine. I take a couple quick runs down the highway to and from work and 65 feels like the bike is just running way high (of course I don't have a tach, but I just ordered one today), but it just feels, like everyone with a 5 speed around that highway mark I really need an extra gear. I did read that this would be the way to go for keeping speedo accurate also, so sounds like I should be pleased with this then. Thanks for you video pointing me here.
Continued.....reason i ask is.....Two difft techs at Barnett techs told me two difft things. One said to leave grenade ring out (after i already told him it was not in the bike when i bought it) and the other told me to continue to use the flat and concave ring. I did that, put it together n got it adjusted. However, shifts fine, find neutral fine, but if i giv her snot, there is a bit of clutch slippage. I might have to try readjusting. But, if it continues, i bet i was supposed to leave the flat n concave ring out and stack frictions n steels as u did.
Wade N I don’t remember putting anything else back in from the stock clutch, other than the throw out assembly. I will check when I get home, and see what parts I removed. If I’m not mistaken my kit came as an Extra Plate Kit, and I was to completely remove the old clutch entirely. The concave washer works in conjunction with the grenade ring, if memory serves me right. I’ll reply shortly with your answer.
1st Ring is the Flate on. Second is the Raised which is a Spring, as it is called. THEN: It's Friction Plate Steel Plate Fric. and so on. Untill the very Last one on is Friction. Then is complete for the Gear's.
When did you replace the primary output gear? I saw at 7:06 you re-tightened the nut. Was there anything more to that besides just putting the new one on?
leonard pezza I dropped about 450rpm in 5th on the highway. It sounds better, and puts me at 3600rpm@ 80mph. It isn’t drastic enough that it affects around town riding negatively. I can also add a 31 tooth “International” pulley if I feel the need to drop the RPM’s even lower. This conversion gives you the same ratio as the 2004 and up 1200 bikes.
Ok,,,,where did the flat ring n concave ring go? Didnt see u remove them. I replaced mine with barnett plates n diaphram (my grenade ring was already deleted when i purchased bike)
why do you skip all the important shit? "everyone hates this bolt, and i dont have the locking ,mech. so i use a 4'' brass hinge" ok, how, where?????????
I’ll start this off with ,”Thanks for the comment”. This was my first ever video man. Mistakes were definitely made, and lessons were learned. If you have the factory service manual for your bike, which you should use btw, it shows where it goes. Search for clutch basket removal and you may also find the info you need. I spent hours researching this, and I tried to pack as much info into this “First Time” video as I could. I do appreciate the comment, and if you need help or have questions, please feel free to ask!!
No problem good sir! Just make sure not to put pressure on the shift-shaft when loosening the nut. Seriously though, if you have any questions, please send me a message.
