We will install a GeForce GTX 1660 video card into an HP Pavilion 595-p0084. This requires a bigger power supply. Because the case is too small, we will mount the new Corsair CX550 PSU on the top of the case.
It worked for me: to put an atx psu, use the 4-pin connector (atx_12v) as always on the cpu, in this case the "P3". To power the other 4-pin connector ("P1"), take 12v from the 24-pin_atx connector (2 yellow and 2 black wires). Finally for the mobo to detect the new psu, with a cable make a jumper between pin 8 / gray cable (PWR_OK) from 24-pin_atx and the gray cable of the 7-pin connector (P2). Without forgetting to bridge PS_ON and COM (green and black) of the 24pin atx. The psu will always stay on and at first the bios will show a fan error from the psu (skip with enter and done).
I found a better technic to mod the power supply that work fine with less work. A lot of power supplies (mine is a 450w VP antec) have two available 4 pin cable for the CPU alimentation (in case you have an 8pin connector on your mother board). What you can do is to just shorten the 24 pin connector as seen in the vidéo with whatever cable you have, and you just have to separate the two 4 pins of the CPU cable enough to be able to plug the two of them on the CPU alim and the mother board alim. The thing work you only have to turn on and of your power supply manually when powering the pc on or off.
Cannot believe no one is making ATX adapters for these systems yet. There are ATX adapters for other HP systems. What is the name of the connector on pwrcmd? This looks like a JST PH 2.0mm 7 pin female connector?
I put my old 1660 TI in my small white HP with the i5-12400, from my big Dell Inspiron. The HP only has a 310w psu, works like a charm though, the card draws at the most like 160w, and the CPU about 65w, so no issues. Though it's not for HARDCORE gaming. HP knows how to make a great small PC, with decent airflow.
Not really how that works... at all. PSUs are rated for efficiency/output. Cheap PSUs may only provide 60-80% of their total output, there are several factors that can impact this. Hence why brands label "80 Gold" or things like that, it means that the PSU is designed to not fall below 80% of it's rated output. Since PSUs of the cheaper kind can run hotter, this creates thermal loss ie electricity is lost in the form of heat and as such reduces the efficiency/output of the PSU. So in theory your PSU in the example provided above is going to consistently float around ~250w @ 80% rated.
I have a 12 year old HP laptop, an 8 year old HP laptop that I've had for 4 years, found it new. They both run like champs, I upgraded them with SSD's, and some ole DDR3 RAM and run windows 10 on them. Not a single, crash or issue with EITHER. Yeah i really got scammed after 12 years. lmfao. I wouldn't buy any other brand atm.
You're just figuring this out in your head. It makes it very hard to follow the video. Do you have a pinout diagram of what you did? There are three connectors to the motherboard: Two 4-pin and a 3rd that may be some sort of controlling signal from the mobo to the PSU - What are the pins for that connector?
www.smpspowersupply.com/connectors-pinouts.html shows a decent ATX PSU 24 pin connector pinout. The 4 pin connector closest to the CPU is for CPU power. The 4 pin connector near the bottom of the motherboard is the main power. That small white connector to the left of the main power connector is the PSU fan connector. I originally thought it was how the power switch turned the PSU on, but it just controls the fans. The original PSU was always on, but the fans only ran when the temp got high enough. Near the end of the video, I disconnected it and just soldered the PSU_ON and Common wires together to keep my PSU on. The power switch works as expected now.
@@siscoinnovations5815 Thanks for the clarification. I bought an HP PC at a deal and wanted to find a solution to upgrade the PSU because looking at HP's site, they wanted something like $300 for the upgrade, instead of a $65 off-the-shelf ATX PSU. In the end I thought this proprietary mentality on their part is not for me. So I returned the PC and built my own from standard components. I ended up with a PC with better specs, at a slightly lower cost, but with much more satisfaction.
Gotta love when psu makers don't differentiate what the pins are by using a color scheme for their wiring, and so we end up numbering them at least a dozen times instead, lol Anyway, I got one question to ask. Does this setup, you just modded, work with no vsb from that ATX psu, or you needed to short something? I have the exact motherboard as yours, and as you've already shown there is no VSB (supposedly purple wire) or psu controls (supposedly, two wires, one white and one red on the inline small 7pin connector). I've searched everywhere and found other models of this mobo with the VSB line on the inline small 7pin connector between the power good (grey wire to the of the 5th pin on the connector) and the peripheral ground (black wire to the first pin of the 7pin connector), so its VSB should've been on the 6th pin. Help please
I connected pins 15 (Common) and 16 (PS_ON#). It does stay on all the time, which is fine for me because I rarely shut it down anyway. When I do need to leave it off, I flip the switch on the PSU. The power button lights up and functions properly like this too. Just remember to turn the PSU off or unplug it before going into the case.
As far as power goes, it should work fine. You will need to confirm which power connector your motherboard uses. I looked up a few TG01 motherboards, and the ones I saw were like my Pavilion 595. If yours uses the 4 pin power connector, and you want to replace your power supply with the new one, you will need to either get or make an adapter. * This one uses the proprietary power supply connectors : support.hp.com/sg-en/document/c06432435 The case size looked to be taller, but a littler thinner, so I can't say for sure if the new power supply will fit inside or if you would need to mount it externally. Mine is mounted on top of my case using heavy-duty Velcro.
I repair and sell old systems for a hobby and OMG i HaTe HP and their damned torx screws! I tend to trow them away and replace them with normal screws, JuST so the new owner(s) can upgrade their systems like normal.
I have this same pc. I know fickell when it comes to pcs,upgrading,ram,specs n all that. But by upgrading ,what are the real benefits here? I know this pc as is isnt capable of all too much, but if possible could you tell me what it was capable of,and what it is now? Like in terms of say video editing or gaming? Is this thing now able to do 4k editing? I'm just curious as to a general feel. I'm not much for gaming but I do edit, and am looking to up production a bit
I use Adobe Premiere Pro on it, and I've been editing 4K videos just fine. I added an extra fan to counter the fact that I removed one when I removed the old PSU. Before adding the GPU, it took much longer for even 1440 videos to render. The only game I really play is World Of Tanks, and it's perfectly smooth. I know that's not a very intensive game, but it's the only one installed. The main reason I added the GTX 1660 was to see if it helped with photo and video editing, and I'm happy I did. Photoshop, lightroom, and premiere pro are all noticeably faster now. Make sure you get the updated bios if you haven't already. They fixed the bug that caused it to shut down with a false overheating error.
I was doing an upgrade to my HP pavillion these days. After the cable being modified, the power supply just can't turn on. I am not sure about what's wrong with it?
Wait using aftermarket PSU is an option how bro plz coming from console got an hp victus didn't no anything about proprietary motherboards and I did drop an 4060 in it on 350 w and it works but got a 500w on the way but I want to do this
If you're talking about the two wires I soldered together near the end of the video, they were wires 15 (Common) and 16 (PS_ON) There are plenty of pinout images available. Here's one: www.smpspowersupply.com/connectors-pinouts.html
I don't think that would be a good idea. The 4 pin connectors on the motherboard need 12V and Common. That 4 pin connector at the end of the 24 pin one has 12V, 5V, 3.3V, and Common.
Your mileage may vary, so I can't make any promises. Mine has been running non-stop since I did it. I also got the bios update so the false over-temp error stopped.
Yes, but there's a switch on the PSU. My PSU sits on top of the case with the switch facing front, so it's easy to reach. I only turn it off when I clean it or when I go on vacation though.
this work for sunflower mother board? I have as ryzen 3 2200g if i upgrade for ryzen 5 2600 i will need a gpu and for sure my 180w psu won't handle right? thanks in advance.
I think you're right. 180W just isn't enough power to allow for many upgrades. You may be able to find a lower power GPU, but if you're upgrading, it's hard to limit yourself in that way.
The HP Pavilion 595-p0084 can handle up to 32GB of RAM. The PNY GTX 1660 dimensions are 1.65” × 9.13” × 4.92”, Dual-Slot. I looked at a few GTX 1050s, and some will fit but others, especially the dual fan versions, are too large.
Should’ve used just the pci cable of the new psu with a jumper for the gpu and leave the old psu inside just for the cpu and mobo. Anyway nice work, I was curious to see if could fit a standard psu for mine. Thanks
So i can get an atx size psu keep it outside of my pc plug the “pci” into my rx580 with a jumper and wont need to replace my stock psu? I too have an Hp 590 model pc and im so noob at pc’s appreciate it if youd help me 😢
Thanks. That was my original plan, but I changed my mind when the parts arrived, and then I converted the original tiny PSU to a benchtop power supply. I guess I couldn't resist cutting and soldering wires. :)
I have a 12 year old HP laptop, an 8 year old HP laptop that I've had for 4 years, found it new. They both run like champs, I upgraded them with SSD's, and some ole DDR3 RAM and run windows 10 on them. Not a single, crash or issue with EITHER. Yeah i really got scammed after 12 years. lmfao. I wouldn't buy any other brand atm.
I'm not sure with this HP computer, but mine has a proprietary motherboard that is not a standard size or have standard located motherboard stand offs. But on the bright side, my HP Pavilion motherboard uses a standard ATX psu.
This change has not really affected the temperature. If the GPU is adding heat, that was probably countered when I moved the PSU outisde of the case. I don't have measurements to prove that though. The GPU runs pretty cool, but with the stock CPU cooler, the CPU has always run warm. I'm looking for a better heat sink that will fit too. On a related note: HP finally released a BIOS update that fixed the false overheating error that plagued this model.
Ultimately, I left that connector off, and I connected ATX connector pin 16(PS-ON) to pin 15(ground), which turns the ATX PSU on. You'll want to verify which pins are the right ones for your connector. I could not find a definitive answer for the purpose of the p2 connector when I was researching it. I'm trying to remember, and I think it ran the original PSU fan. I first thought that it turned the PSU on, but the only thing that changed when connected was that the fan came on, and the PSU provided the correct power regardless. I believe some people experienced a warning when they left it off, but it worked perfectly for me.
@@efrainvelazquez9033 I used 2 four pin cpu connectors from my psu(an old evga 500b). On the small 7 pin mine had a gray wire in the third terminal that had to be connected to power_ok on the psu it would just turn on and shutdown immediately without that. The other wires weren't needed. HP M01-F1024
