Now that you have the longer counter weight rod. You may be able to switch your bracket back around and use the long end for camera mounting. I believe that longer rod compensates for the reason you had swapped it in the first place. In that case that should remove the problem with the screw of the mount interacting with the one on the base. Thus solving two problems with one longer counterweight rod. Thanks.
Yes that would certainly be a good reason for flipping the bracket back around. I personally have my bracket with the long side with counterweight because of the balance issue. Ever since I've switched I've hated it because in order to see the LED light for the polar scope it has to have the short bracket side down which ironically is the telescope side. This means you have to rotate the telescope around in the declination axis in order to get this in position. If this shaft was $10 by itself I would certainly get it so I could switch bracket sides back.
a) you know those little black screws can be tightened once its on and secure it from falling off when you rotate the camera, especially if you are using a heavier rig its very comforting to know its not going to fall off b) you have one screw and i believe 2 or 3 holes so you can take that screw out and use a different hole if it is getting in the way of the screw at the back c) i went for the William Optics Dec Adaptor With Vixen Saddle for my small 61/360 apo, its very secure and if you are using a telescope its more practicle d) all in all if you are carrying it all and on a budget, I agree with you, but if you can afford it (and as far as upgrades for astrophotography go these parts are the cheapest you will ever buy), I doubled my exposure time on my unguided subs with these parts, and still very portable
I've gotten around the declination bracket thumb screw being in the way by replacing the thumb screw with a 6mm socket head cap screw which also doesn't back out like the thumb screw does.
I bought the skyguider pro because I can't afford a better sensor or lens after watching your video a while back. I practiced once in my yard before taking it to a dark sky. When I went to look up the reticle position out there... no internet. So I chased the north star, adjusting when it started trailing. I ended up getting a 17 minutes plus shot, well a couple before predawn, and without airplanes or satellites! Thank you! I don't know if it will ever happen again with Starlink up there now. The screw on the base I cut off I think 1/2 inch, and didn't have any issue with the knobs hitting. I think I cut off 1/4 inch off the latitude screws and was able to get 45 degrees north easily. But I like the extension rod idea because of weight, I backpack in! And the precision of the base for deeper shots, might have to try that! Again, thank you so much for doing my homework for me! I was thinking about building this stuff myself, then I thought: maybe someone else already did. You showed me it's has been built and how to use it! Can't thank you enough!
I don't have one of these mounts yet, but the little black screws on the round base I think work like the rotation part of their focusers. By that I mean, if you put the round part on without the thumbscrew, and gently tighten down those black slotted screws around it, the round part would stay securely in place, and still smoothly rotate. This would mean you are only using the thumbscrew to tighten the location, and if you remove it the round part (and your attached gear) would not fall off. This way you are much safer if that thumbscrew is loose, and you can remove it completely to rotate it all the way around too. Give it a try and let me know if that makes sense, and if you think that is what it was intended for. Love your in depth videos!!!!
i guess im asking the wrong place but does anybody know a way to get back into an instagram account? I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Jadiel Rhys thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I've been contemplating purchasing the William Optics base so thanks for your insight. I'll probably hold off until I get a bit of experience with the stock version first, but I can see it in my future. Nothing beats machined anodized aluminum... and it's red!
I like VideoOneMedia's idea, but will take it one further. Put set screws in two of the three declination bracket adjustment holes. Set their depth such that the screw in the third hole will firmly grip. Also, just put a shorter thumb screw in to get clearance.
My question, which you have answered here, is "Should I buy the WO base when I buy the SkyGuider Pro?" In my case, the answer is no. but if I continue in the pursuit, then I should.
You can just Velcro a small barbell weight to the weight you have, and you won’t need the red extension. Counter weights are expensive, barbell weights are dirt cheap, and you can use the same trick on any mount that you need extra counter weights. And the closer the weight to the mount, the better it tracks. As far as those two screws hitting that screw that sticks up on your mount, just get a shorter screw that sticks up, and the two screws won’t hit that screw that sticks up any more. As far as the wedge, I like the Astrotrac wedge a lot better. It’s more money, but it’s built like a tank, and it’s about the same size, and has more precision. You will have to tap and drill a couple of holes in it to put a dovetail adapter on it.
Great video. I noted there were two more screws you could put into "iOptron Skyguider Pro Dec adapter & Vixen style Clamp " in addition to just the center screw to keep it tight and from spinning.
I have the Star Adventurer. The matching latitude base from Skywatcher works pretty well and is about 1/3 the price of the William Optics. The WO stuff does have a nicer finish and is more precision machined, but if you're just using telephoto lenses, it won't make much of a difference.
Meh. I just ordered a 2nd SW base! I would've definitely rather ordered the WO base. Oh well, lets see how long the new base lasts. I'll probably still end up buying the WO base for my Adventurer.
I bought the WO base after being frustrated with how wobbly the Sky-Watcher base was and how difficult it was to set the altitude accurately and try to maintain it with the clutch. I love the WO base and could never go back. Very precise in both azimuth and altitude, very stable, very solid. Getting it was like moving half-way up to a full-fledged telescope mount. Makes the Star Adventurer a much better experience.
I've been thinking. With the new extension rod you might be able to get away with using the declination bracket 'the right way round' and solve the bolt problem.
Thank you for posting. I have yet to get a tracking mount yet. I’ll look at the line from William Optics accessories and see what platforms they support along with trolling more videos. Coming from years in film, then later broadcast HD and now 4K cine, or back in the 70’s and 80’s BMX bikes and custom work, these Williams upgrades seem very reasonably priced. I would almost get a couple fo them for Christmas Tree ornaments. :) (Having paid nearly $1,500 for 2 batteries and a charger for one camera 15 years ago.. ). Anyway since I have 80-200 , 300mm and other long lenses.. I’ll be shopping for something that CAN handle those weights... and possibly 3rd party support like William Optics.. though in the near term I see myself mostly using wide field astrophotography for a while.. but I know I’ll want to start imaging nebula as well as planetary lately.
Explaining the concept around "why you move the counter weights" might be clearer if you introduce the concept of "moving the center of gravity of the assembly to the rotational axis". You visually do it in the video, but explain that where the center of gravity is with respect to the rotational axis dictates which direction the assembly will rotate. Use the word 'center of gravity' somewhere.
What happens if you just use one screw with the iOptron plate? that solves that entire problem... but what problem would that cause (if any)? How is that different from the improvement of the one screw of the WO plate (aside from the plate itself possibly being better made, etc.)? Is it a matter of the screw being beefier and allow you to put more force in total? I can't believe the WO plate is made in such a way that the fit is that much better over the base plate that there's more friction when you use the same amount of force.
I found buying shorter or longer knob screws at the local Ace Hardware work best than spending half a century note on new doo dads constantly... but on the base, for those that have nothing yet, does anyone have experience with another mount that might work, such as the SkyWatcher S20530 Star Adventurer Latitude (EQ) Base? It looks like a great price, but it may not be any better than the OEM mount base.
I gotta ask, if I bought this and got the upgrade i.e. the base, wouldn't it be a better idea to get something like a Advanced VX Mount and Tripod from Celestron? Idk whats the difference between the skyguider and the Advanced VX Mount.
Seems that this new adapter only solves a problem if you're lucky that the screw lands pointing forward of the lens when installed. If it ends facing the camera, the problem gets worse...
Very helpful video. I really like High Latitude WO Vexen style base mount and I hate the original one. Thank you very much. I want to know about auto girder.
So the Skyguider Prp costs me currently 500€. The WO Base costs 300€. The counterweight extension 50€. Camera Mounting Block 50€ and a Saddle plate for 90€. Overall about 1000€. I think this is not worth it with this little mount. I can just go with a big Goto mount which can carry double the load and be safe for future rigs without all those extensions.
I don't think this will work. Then the plastic head of the screw will interfere with the clutch bumps. That's probably why they made the screw longer. Have you tried cutting the screw off?
7:00 come on this is simple. REMOVE that screw on the back. hacksaw it shorter (it has plenty of threading from what I can see) so that it sits "BELOW" the screws on the rotating base. problem solved. the new mount is still nice since it reduces how much you need to lop off. Put a NUT on it first before sawing it off so when you remove the nut it "cleans" the threads for you (file any burs off first)
I need to flip the DEC bar over like you have it. I wasn't guiding with it the other night but I was limited to 40 sec exposures before the stars got ugly. I'm hoping flipping that and the guiding piece will solve that. Redcat with D850 is kind of heavy. I might switch to the D750
I hate the declination assembly on this... Its not smooth.. seeing that the star adventurer has a slow motion adjustment, I want to figure out a way to replicate it
Hello, did anyone use rotation stage with micrometer for iOptron SkyGuider Pro to adjust smoothly around declination axis? I think a stage like this one "Rotating Platform R/L Axis Precision Rotating Platform Rotation Stage Load 29.4N"(about 40$- ebay) is suitable.
For a first time buyer I really want to get the ioptron but I'm having a hard time deciding, it's seams that with the upgrades its the dogs bollocks but for the price I could have skywatcher star adventurer with guidescope and camera. Any thoughts?
If you also have the SA, I would like to see what is also available for it too. From this video, I guess it is just the altitude mount and the extension bar for the counter weight?
Just wondering ... With the counter weight extension rod, is it possible to swap the DEC bracket back (unflip it) and get the best of both worlds. Good balance and eliminate the problem with the lock nuts?
Peter, I am new to the SkyGuider Pro, I always took short shots on my regular tripod and I am having an issue. I just DO NOT understand how to set this thing up. It works great for astrophotography but today I tried to use it on the moon and it made no sense. If I polar align it and the moon is behind me then setting it up as you have it at the 1:41 mark doesnt work. When I try adding the ioptron ball head it sorta solves the problem but it doesnt attach tightly and the ballhead doesnt seem to be able to hold the weight of my nikkor 200-500...Im so annoyed because I cant find a "setting your ioptron up for dummies" video....do you have suggestions? Does anyone?
Hi Peter. Very cool video! You use the i polar too? I have it on my sky guider pro and sometimes i have problems with plate solving.. Perhaps you could make a video in the future.. Thanks
Frankly, I hate the iPolar version. Unless someone sends me a demo unit, I don't plan on doing any videos on that model. I usually recommend an auto-guider instead, which can do a precise polar alignment + guiding.
@@PeterZelinka Yes you are right Peter. If the iPolar will not work exactly i must replace it to the standard optical okular, it would be no problem. Next month i will go to La Palma, i ll try to make my first deepsky experience there :-) From 14mm to 500mm (Sigma), i will tell you the results Peter!
Hi Peter! Firstly many thanks for all your great videos, extremely helpful 👏 Could I ask you if the Equatorial mount could possibly go a far as the markings suggest, i.e 60 degrees. The reason I'm asking is that I live at 59,51 degrees North and am considering purchasing this mount. Keep up the good work 🙏 Scott 😊
@@PeterZelinka thanks I have asked and they didn't really recommend the wedge for me living at virtually 60 degrees, anyhow I've decided to just use the star adventurer as it is 😉
William Optics should make your own Star Tracker or ioptron should make quality parts from the beggining, makes no sense. I just want to shoot the stars properly. Extra money is a marketing campaing.
Die Erweiterungen scheinen sehr sinnvoll zu sein, aber was ist mit dem Preis? Ein Skywatcher Star Adventurer - mit all diesen Erweiterungen in der Grundausstattung - kommt da doch günstiger, oder nicht?
You keep talking about the screw when you turn the camera and there's one screw hitting the other screw take the screw out the back 1 that is vertically mounted short cut about a quarter inch of the screw off put it back in the hole solves your problem it'll drop that down quarter inch and you'll clear it with the other ones the other ones when you cut it just make sure you have a nut thread it on so when you cut the actual screw you can take the nut off and it will make sure all the threads are straightened back out
If you have a camera/lens that is so heavy it requires 2 weights + the extension rod, you're not going to get good results. The motor is only rated for about 11lbs of camera gear, and that's pushing it.
@@PeterZelinka I'm not recommending using two weights 'plus extension', but it is useful to keep in mind that the load experienced by the SkyGuider's steppers is determined *almost* entirely by how accurately one balances. My 'almost' is to make the point that the larger the 'angular moment' of the astronomy gear (mass times distance from rotational axis to the CG) the more sensitive the system will be to 'bogging down' or 'speeding up' after a less than perfect balancing. It will be much harder to get the center of gravity close enough to the rotational axis for the device to rotate appropriately.
The big trick is guiding. Without an auto-guider, you're in for a lot of frustration at high focal lengths. I could never get above 30 seconds with my 150-600mm until I began guiding. I've got two different videos that will explain it here on RU-vid. The base will help a bit, but you'd be better off investing that money into the guider first.
@@PeterZelinka So guider, eh? But where to mount it? My remote timer is in the flash shot. I have an Adventurer. Nikon d500, d850, sigma 70-200, sigma 150-600. I really like shooting with 150-600 but as you said, frustrating! Ready to chuck it all and just get a cgx-L with a giant RASA.....but I figure I better learn autoguiding first.
IMO William Optics failed with there so called pro Dec adapter upgrade- M-IOPSG-SPM Because if mounting a ball head your now restricted to a 1/4" thread, All those robust 3/8" ball heads can no longer be used, unless using the original iOptron dec with 3/8" bolt adapter, This W.O dec is a downgrade in this case.
5 min subs are possible with this small tracker. even with a 400mm scope. polar alignment takes me 20-40 minutes with the WO setup and my asi air. Its a pain, but this is a great little setup. www.reddit.com/r/astrophotography/comments/eyn5ih/orions_belt/ www.reddit.com/r/astrophotography/comments/eynbgl/horsehead_nebula/
I mention this in most videos. It's not a big deal. Just use a red headlamp and shine it over the front of the polar scope briefly, that will illuminate the reticle. It's not perfect, but it works.
