Great work! Given the snap-on replacements, I guess you could strip a little more of each wire and wrap them around the connector to provide a stronger physical connection.
Agree and I'm sure he'll let us know soon. I have to say, if it sounds worse with these mods, I totally trust that Ian would tell us the truth. As I have heard him say on many occasions "it's a learning process" so even if it sounded worse, that information is still valuable to anyone researching modifying these amps. Whatever the result is, I'm keen on hearing Ian's view!
I'd prefer to wrap the wires around the terminals and then solder as you'll get a much more reliable mechanical connection, especially in the event that you get a cold solder joint over time. Relying on solder on its own is not really ideal. However I have heard improvements in better components generally.
Yes, this is a problem. High current connections should always be mechanical. Solder melts at about 220 C, which means that the solder could melt and run if the connection gets heated, for instance from resistance. Any solder connection should be mechanical in any case. The solder is just the glue that holds the connection together. Solder shoild should never be used as a conductor.
Thanks for the videos. They're right on time for my current DIY schemes. I've mostly seen the AN caps promoted as excellent types for the signal path, and I've been stockpiling them for that purpose for a few projects on my drawing board. But are they the best choice for power supplies? In the amps I'm building my inclination is to go for caps touted for their power prowess, such as the Mundorf MLytics or E caps, or some of the standard brands that are well known homerun hitters in this category. I'd like to hear some opinions on this from the rest of you guys. I'm worried less about price than about what performs best for the job at hand.
I personally like the Audio Note Kaisei Caps are the best for smoothing filter power caps, lots of people will disagree but they've never tried them, why is this because they're expensive and they won't spend the money on them, but I have & can say they are outstanding, thanks for commenting & watching 👍
The original capacitors were bigger again and allow you plenty of room to increase the amount of capacitance and voltage rating. Why did you decide to keep to the original values?
They could be good absolutely the only thing that bothers me is that there is no spec sheet and that’s what stop me from buying them. There are higher priced audio caps like the Toshin jovial but once tested they performed horribly.
Maybe worth advising caution anywhere near those Caps unless they have discharged overtime or been actively discharged. I put signal path caps from Audionote into my point to point wired Tube amp and the improvements are epic.
As long as you don’t NEED them to be better then it doesn’t matter. Removing the ring terminals and soldering them in might be worthwhile alone. I’ve recapped b&o speakers and the original caps WERE special. Modern caps film caps theoretically should be better but it can come down to subtle details like if the leads are iron instead of copper…
I'm the same! Also there is NO WAY I could do it on camera! I just know if a camera got pointed at me, I can guarantee I would burn myself with the soldering iron!😉😂
