Using Automotive 2K Primer for our Hobby! The pros and cons explained! 

Thank you very much for your feedback. That's very appreciated and so glad you found my videos helpful. Wish you all the best for the new year :)

Thank you James, for watching the video and also for your feedback. I do have other primers too but I always prefer this 2k one especially for large jobs. If I forgot to prime a part I go for the hobby ones, or if I need to airbrush a white body I apply a layer of white primer before the colour. Very appreciated my friend 👍🏼

Thank you Chris, both for watching the video and for your feedback too. Very appreciated 👍🏼 Yes exactly, it's a good blend of a light grey primer. If I'm airbrushing a white body, I airbrush a light coat of white hobby primer. Other than that, I airbrush all colours directly on it ☺️

Hello there, thank you for watching the video. That is very appreciated and I'm so glad you like my content. Yes 2k primer produces a bigger amount of dust than other paints, but it's not a big deal for me. Speaking of vapours, yes it is harmful especially if spraying like me, inside a room with a small spray booth where the vapours can get very concentrated inside the enclosure. My friend sprays in an open room with a big extractor fan infront of him and vapours aren't very noticeable, but he still wears a sprayers mask. First time I sprayed 2k clear I used a medical mask and spent 2 days coughing and feel like someone punched my throat 😀 Thank you once again and I'm so glad my video inspired you for your next one 👍🏼👍🏼

@@KarlScaleModeling yeah all that paint went in my mouth and got stuck in my throat I was coughing and trying to spit it out for 3 days it was painful

@@ananthasuraj2187 I see, same thing as me then! I immediately went to buy a proper mask the next day and once I bought the Primer I never took the risk and always used the mask too ☺️ hope you're all fine my friend, last I talked to you I remember you were worried about rain and weather there 🙏🏼

Thank you laurencio, so glad you like my instructions. Switching to the 2K options were a great change for me. Primer gave me the ability to smooth it perfect before applying the paint while Clear gives a deep shine which will make the car stand out. Both take time to prepare, need to clean airbrush well afterwards due to the hardener and both need a good automotive mask. But hey, it's worth the extra effort ☺️👍🏼

Thanks for your feedback Oleg. I don't know what type of 2K Primer Zero Paints sell, however mine sticks to plastic like glue! Even when I prime resin parts, it sticks very well. Just a quick sanding to the plastic with Tamiya 600 and let it stick! You can notice it during the sanding in the video, it looks hard on the surface 👍🏼

@@KarlScaleModeling yes i wanna try now the automotive primer like your. it looks ok for plastic and for resin

Yes it is ok for both plastic and resin Oleg. Something must be wrong with the zero paints one to cause that. My friend has a different brand 2k primer, bought from a local body shop and it sticks well to his kits too. I've seen it in person and it definitely sticks! Takes more time to mix and get ready to airbrush, but I like the result afterwards 👍🏼

Thanks for your feedback and watching the video, very appreciated. I also use a 0.5mm airbrush however since my 2K primer is old I need to add more thinner. Right now I'm adding more thinner than paint! But it's still giving good finishes, so I'll keep using it 😀☺️👍🏼

Hello Ruwe, thanks for your feedback about my video 👍🏼 I don't remember ever experiencing mold lines re-appearing after the clear coat is sprayed. Since I've been using 2k primer for sure they never re-appeared because 2K primer has hardener and creates a hard coat between the plastic and next layers. You are right, my paints are automotive 'hot' too, however they are always airbrushed so I'm spraying the right amount each time. However I remember a local friend had such a problem and he discussed the issue with me. He was using Mr.Hobby spray can primers, zero paints airbrushed and then Mr.Hobby spray can clear. He told me that after the clear some mold lines were re-appearing. He did some tests and concluded that the problem was that he was spraying the first layers of clear too thick. He was trying to get a good shine from the first layers. This was somehow affecting the layers beneath and mold lines re-appeared. On the next build, he did everything the same, used same products but the first clear layers were sprayed thin, just barely covering the colour coat. After 3-4 quick layers, he let it dry for 30 minutes and then sprayed 2-3 wet coats for the final shine. He told me that this solved the issue and mold lines didn't re-appear. This is what he told me, and I've seen his recent builds where they had no visible mold lines. So maybe that's your problem too. Automotive spray cans are good, however the nozzle sprays a big quantity of paint for our scale of cars. So you have to be quick and move the spray can accordingly not to accumulate paint. Maybe try to spray the first layers of clear quickly, to make thin layers of paint. Then let it dry for some minutes and spray the final wet coats. Hope this helps and if I'll find any more info I'll reply here 😊

@@KarlScaleModeling Thank you for such a good answer!

You're welcome, glad to be of help to others 😊👍🏼

Hello there, sorry for my delay in replying. The ratio for my primer is 5:1 meaning that for every 5 parts of primer you add 1 part of hardener. That is a mixture which the autobody shop tells you (where you buy the primer). Usually, for automotive 2k primers, it's like that. Regarding the thinner/reducer, you need to add enough so that the paint flows smoothly out of your airbrush. It depends on your airbrush and set up, together with how old your primer is. In my case, I am now adding a little bit more thinner than the actual primer, because the primer is old and it's not as liquid as it was when new. My mixture right now is about 1 part primer, 0.2 part hardener and 1.2 part thinner. So regarding thinner, you need to find the best amount for your set up. Hope that helps ☺️

Hello Reyes, I would say even more than that! It's old paint and hence requires more thinning. Last batch I mixed I used a ratio of 1:0.5:1.. meaning that I used as much thinner as there was paint, together with half measure of hardener. Hope that helps ☺️ one may think it's time for a new one.. but it still keeps going strong, more thinner isn't bad in the mix 😀👍🏼

@@KarlScaleModeling thanks for the reply! I'll try your ratio and see how it does

No problem, glad to be of help. Getting a good smooth finish depends on many things: paint ratio, air pressure, airbrush needle thickness and the distance between the airbrush to the surface. If your paint is a bit old like mine, thinner always helps it get more liquid, hence it will spray better. Try experimenting to find the best mixture for you and your set up ☺️👍🏼

Well, it all depends on the modeller I guess. I see people airbrushing primer to all pieces, like me! Others only airbrush primer to body pieces, like you've said. I know of others that just sand down the surface of the plastic to a smooth finish, and go for the colour directly. Since I use 2K primer, I always prefer to have that solid coat that sticks well to the parts. It may also depend on the colour you're airbrushing too. For example, if the brakes are molded black and you want yellow calipers, it may be a good idea to have a lighter colour primer before the yellow. Hope that helps ☺️👍🏼

Also, if you're using an airbrush, burying details shouldn't be a problem since you can lay down a thin layer of primer that's won't affect details. There is no need to airbrush a thick wet coat of primer ☺️

Thanks for your feedback. I also was wet sanding the 2K primer before, but then I was seeing that I could sand through easier. So I tried dry sanding with used Tamiya 600 sand paper and it worked much better. I could see clearly where I needed to sand and never ran through again. Both methods are good to be honest.