Nice video bud and some great kit you got there. I'm partly jealous I don't have a la siding jig. Keep up the great videos and you'll soon be into 1000s of subs. You got 1 more from me 😆😊
Thanks for watching and I'm happy that you enjoyed the video. I'm always coming across toys and such that the kids in our family (including me) have left out in the sticks over the years. Crow is really nice, we go out that way quite often. (Wolf Creek and Smith River).
DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE if all you want to do is make lap siding. Simply cut your cant, then stick two pieces of plywood (I use 5/8" x2"x2") between the bed rails and the cant at each end. I cock mine toward me so the little nubs keep the cant from moving, and put the shims on the outboard side. Cut your first piece. Remove the shims, cut your next piece. Keep going until you're out of cant. Simple at that. I've cut hundreds of thousands of feet of lap siding this way. I actually bought this WM attachment, and figured out plywood shims were a WHOLE lot easier. The stupid attachment hung on the wall of my mill shed for a decade after that. You see him strain to pick up the attachment ...ahahhaa.....yeah, it ain't light. I could have had 2-3 pieces of siding cut by the time he moved he cant aside, wrestled the attachment on the bed, and THEN had to wrestle the cant INTO the attachment. AND if you're gonna cut a bunch of siding, you either have to take the cants off the mill. stack them somewhere, then load them back on to the attachment (extra work)... OR put the attachment on with every cant, then take it off again, saw another cant, put it on again, and so on. Making work for yourself. Been there, done it, WM fooled me too ! ahahhaaaaa NOW, that said, IF you want to make shingles, this thing IS THE TRICK....I'll give it that. You saw cants, them chainsaw them into blocks 18-24" long, and set them aside. Keep doing that until you have a big pile of blocks. THEN put the attachment on the mill, and it will hold 6 blocks. Throwing the handle for making shingles cocks all 6 of the blocks up in the air at one end. Make a pass, you get 6 shingles. Throw the handle back down, lower the saw head about an 1", make a pass, you get 6 more shingles. Repeat until blocks are gone. After mine hung on the mill shed wall for many years, some guy saw it and wanted to buy it. In full disclosure, I told him all of the above. But he DID want it for shingles.....actually shims for mobile home setups...they use them between the block pilings and the metal frame for the final leveling. So he bought it and I gladly sold it.
@Ed Smith You make some really valid points about it being unwieldy, heavy and generally difficult to move around and setup. I know one thing for sure - I won't be picking it up again any time soon. I think I'll leave that part to the tractor and pallet forks. I did like how well it worked once I got it setup and ready to roll. It really did help produce nice, consistent lap siding. I've only used it once so I am going to reserve judgment until I've used it a few more times. Hopefully I'll be able to come up with some tricks and a workflow to make it easier. We'll see....
@@CascadiaLumberworks I was under the impression it came with some kind of scale to make consistent thickness siding....nope....it's 'eyeball'. I've sawed many thousands of feet of siding with the plywood shims, you can't get it any better with the attachment, believe me. First pc of siding off a cant, cant cocked with the shims under the bedrails on the outboard side: uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/40616593431/medium/1434500666/enhance Then just take em out for the next cut, insert for the next and so on.....pcs left on for weight. This is yellow poplar, and it tends to bow up in the center as you saw it, so I just leave them all stack on it to weight it down and stop most of that arching upward. uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/003080452239/media/40616593627/medium/1434500711/enhance
I have the same mill and would like to get a jig like you have but there isn't much cedar around me so I don't know how much I would use it. Did you set the accuset at 1" or 3/4". Cool video, I will follow along now that I found your channel
Thanks for watching. I set the Accuset on Set 1 for 3/4 (5/8 + 1/8 for kerf) and Set 2 for 3/8 (1/4 + 1/8 for kerf). Since the jig moves the cant up about 3/4" I alternate between the 2 sets. When it's up I use Set 2 and when it's down I use Set 1 and alternate between them as I cut and move the cant up and down. This gets me 1/4 on one end and 3/4 on the other consistintly think that's how it's done. I may not be doing it right, but it seems to work OK for me.
@@CascadiaLumberworks may seem like a stupid question , but am I missing something , I have an lt35 and considering buying this jig , I would have thought that you set the setworks at 3/4 and then raise/lower the jig on each pass to get the lap siding at 3/4 on the thick end . not sure why you'd be using two settings.
At 13:23 just wondering why you couldn't have got any closer to that clamp??? Which does raise the point that you lose the rest of the cuts from that point down. Just wondering if there's any way to have a scrap or spoiler board down in the clamp area so you can get all of the cant in the cutting field? I know the blade will cut through a staple or two though it won't be too happy about it! Could you staple your cant to a 2x8 scrap and have the clamps hold the 2x8, with the entire cant exposed for cutting? You'd have to use about 8 staples as short as possible. Matter of fact you could work it out so you don't actually cut any of the staples by stopping before you get to them, you'd lose less of the cant.
Thank you for watching and commenting. That’s a really good idea to staple the cant to another board to get it to sit higher in order to avoid the clamps. I’m not sure if staples would be strong enough on their own, but maybe lay a 1/2 board down first and then sit the cant on it. It wouldn’t be held by the whole clamp but maybe it would be enough. You can also work at so when you get down to the bottom that the last board is actually flat so it would be square.
@@CascadiaLumberworks I just watched another video and the guy takes the cants from his shingle jig and glues them together. So the stack is much higher this way you can resaw pretty much everything. Just make sure to use enough glue and you should be able to get 3 or 4 more siding sections per unit. Provided that you cuts end up right about where you joint it. Though I think they would depending on how big the slab is. If the slab is 4 sidings along with the kerf then you should be able to glue any sizes together as long as one side is flush to keep it straight.
Thanks for watching! That is an excellent question. I think that we have to make a cant and then cut it into blocks. Then put the blocks on the Shingle and Lap Sider Jig to make the shingles. I am going to be attempting to make shingles here pretty soon so we'll find out together.
@@CascadiaLumberworks Yep. That is exactly the process. It has two handles....one cams the cant for siding, the other cams blocks for shingles. And it makes GREAT shingles. But for lap siding, two plywood shims works just as good and a WHOLE LOT easier. Sorry to break it to you. Yeah, I bought one too 25 years ago......and used it one time, before I switched to the shim method rather that fool with that heavy thing.
Here's a link to a video that I just posted that shows me makign some shingles using the attachment: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jIF65l5glAg.html
Hello, thanks for commenting. Can you elaborate on this a little more please? I know I’m missing something here but it seems complicated to keep the thickness of the shingles right. If you have a trick please share it with me if you could. Thanks!
We’ll, you’ll have to take that up with wood-mizer as it was made with the ‘lapsider attachment’ and not the ‘bevel siding’ attachment… woodmizer.com/Store/Shop/Sawmill-Options/Shingle-Lapsider
