Using Throttle Cracker to Drop Hanging Idle 

Why, thank you! You're awesome for watching (and for the feedback)

Yay! Congrats.

@Shaun it doesnt matter anymore.... . OEM can be "dead on arrival"...... just as often as "master crap" brand.....

Hey, thanks for watching!

Did it work?

@@Jay-zk7xk yes but I set my mph much lower. Started at around 16 mph and slowly worked my way up until I didn’t have anymore hanging throttle. At 22mph and it working perfect so far

@@Bird-dl7xs i just tried this myself . The problem I’m having is it surges now coming to a stop. But no more hanging throttle . I will try again tomorrow . Thanks for replying .

@@Jay-zk7xk what do you have the throttle cracker set at?

@@Bird-dl7xs originally enable speed was set at 1mph and disable was 2mph. I tried the 80 and 81mph . No hang just surge. I then tried a few different numbers but still getting the surge . At this current time i have enable at 50mph and disable at 45mph.

I wrote an article on exactly what your speaking of. Check it out on thetuningschool.com website!

Gerrot Jacobson any link by chance? Tried browsing but couldn’t find it

what you just said isn't true. I have tuned multiple cars with a cable throttle and they have a iac motor that controls the idle speed along with adaptive timing. Throttle cracker and follower still function are 100 percent on cable throttle bodies. It just takes quite a bit of fine tweaking to get a consistent idle under different driving conditions and throttle transitions.

@@split150 thetuningschool.com/blogs/news/tps-relearn-process?_pos=1&_sid=d178dff71&_ss=r

Good point! Is this what your looking for? thetuningschool.com/blogs/news/tps-relearn-process?_pos=1&_sid=d178dff71&_ss=r

Check out this article and let us know if we can add more info! thetuningschool.com/blogs/news/tps-relearn-process?_pos=1&_sid=d178dff71&_ss=r

Friction airflow initial and startup air flow. Under idle... Airflow. Also make sure you base running airflow is dialed in

Make sure your desired rpm is consistent across all engine coolant Temps as well

Cam Firkus ok. So I should go and lower those in all coolant temps?

@@Onalky87 Tune one column at a time. If the ECT is 68*F when you start the motor, set the Friction Airflow and then the DECAY. Divide the DECAY value to by the Friction Airflow to figure out how many tenths of a second it will add the extra air for startup. I have like .035 for my decay around 68F. 7.45 friction air / 0.035 decay = 212 tenths of a second = 21 seconds

a "high idle" that drops to a "normal idle" after 45 seconds is NORMAL AND EXPECTED OPERATION!!!!! . if you started the motor cold..... when its -70F outside.... and it DIDNT! idle at ~1200 for 45 seconds..... it would stall and die

This is for rolling idle issues, where your Throttle Cracker is adding in to much air. Not idle at rest. Yes, Always work your BRAF, IAC, Spark and many more tables first. This is done after you have a solid idle in all loads.

@@gerrotjacobson1939 if its hanging theres another issue that you are hiding with the 'zero it out' plan. Physically, theres the throttle stop set screw. Then going back through the idle tune flow and adjust accordingly. However, if the data doesnt say to zero it out..dont. Hanging idle is too much air and on 95% of setups it can be tuned out properly.

I think he was referring to drive by wire setups that don't use an iac.

@@1320crusier I dont agree that its necessarily a tuning problem since many cars have rev hang from factory,! the manufacturers seem to think its cool for the idle to slowly come down thru 3000 2000 1000rpm, but it aint, especially when youre trying to quick shift and the revs/synchros take ages to match, and sounds like a Mac truck slowly reving down.

@@gerrotjacobson1939 so is that why the video shows a dude start a pickup up..... and shows a high idle "at rest"???? . seems like a shitty video to me.....

no..... a "high idle" (around 1200 rpm +/- 200 rpm) when cold is NORMAL!!!!!..... and you WANT!!!! it to do that . when DEAD COLD..... this higher idle is acting like the choke on a vehicle with a carburetor if you removed this.... your engine would run rough and/or stall..... until it gets a bit of heat into the cylinders . . . what this is talking about is having a 1200 to 2000+ rpm idle when the engine is started WARM OR HOT!!!! or a normal ~1200 rpm COLD idle....but it will not drop down to ~800 rpm once the engine warms up a little bit . if you disable the "1200 rpm slowly decreasing over 1 to 3 mins (depending on outside air temp) idle"..... you will need to press on the gas to keep the engine running just like you would with a carbureted engine made in 1972 . . . . . so.... step by step.....for the non-mechanical..... who should probably just take it to a mechanic..... and not screw it up any worse than it already is.... . . 1. if engine is started at 50F and revs to ~1200 and then slowly drops to ~800 after 1 to 3 mins this is NORMAL and EXPECTED OPERATION!!! this keeps your engine from stalling / rough idling...... and is acting like a "choke" . it also helps warm up the engine quicker.... reducing emissions (and giving you hot air quicker in the winters) . . 2. if engine is started at 50F and revs to 2000+ rpm..... but DOES! drop to ~800 after 3 to 5 mins the computer needs to be adjusted... just a little bit OR! you have a SMALL! vacuum leak.... AND/OR the idle air control valve isnt working correctly . . 3. if engine is started at 50F and revs to 2000+ rpm..... and STAYS! at 2000+ rpm your idle air control valve is stuck / not working...... AND/OR you have a LARGE! vacuum leak a computer programming change is only masking the issue . . . . . . . also can you please learn how to speak English..... your comment is VERY hard to read / understand what you mean . "known as called rev hang" what the F is that? . "the deer was were walk running in on threw the forest trees"

@@kainhall I know what a cold start is asshole, this whole video has nothing go do with a cold start. It has to do with Rev hang AFTER you Rev it and the idle stays. Look up Rev hang in HP tuners forums and you'll understand it. Not talking about high idle either. If you don't know what Rev hang or hanging throttle is, you don't even belong in these comments.

​@@1KR_B except im ASE certified and work as a mechanic.... except other comments say this is crap advice.... . and you never mentioned cold or hot starts..... and again.... its pretty hard to understand your original comment

@@1KR_B and if you expect the idle to come down just because you hit the gas a few times...... you have zero idea how modern (1996 and newer) throttle bodies work.....

@@kainhall this entire channel has nothing to do with stock stuff. It has to do with tuning. You should really do some inspecting before jumping in with your "ase" knowledge.

its been a year, but i bet youre still trying to be relative today

its almost been another full year, and my comment still stands..

I guess you should figure it out and make a video on howcto do it properly....

@@lsxtmt4910 Looks like dude in the didnt figure it out and still made a video.

If your looking for more information on tuning, join us in one of our courses! Until then, we give our "free knowledge" bit by bit. We gotta make a living, you know?

@@TheTuningSchool So, do you guys actually have a course that teaches how to tune TF and TC on a gen3 DBC car with a rowdy cam? More specifically a 99 OS where both parameters drop out completely as soon as the clutch is pushed in?

If you have set your idle right in the first place, you should not run into that issue. Thats why you fix all idle at all loads and temps first. Then, and only then can you work these high idle/rolling issues.

@@gerrotjacobson1939 try starting your engine at -70F and NOT having it stall at an 800 RPM idle..... . you NEED that ~1200 slowly dropping to 800 rpm idle........ even if EVERYTHING else is perfect with the motor / programming