Not only is the proper sequence in using acrylics demonstrated, but it is reinforced through repetition AND by Todd's patient and descriptive written remarks. Probably the most I've seen under the subject of modeling, of a poster taking the time to describe his work for the benefit of the viewer. To me, this is outstanding.
Todd - Thank YOU for creating and posting this. I’ve been modeling since I was probably about 8yr old - 20-something, recently “all-in” now w/regular models & 3D prints. It’s all come a long way (+thanks to youtube & vid’s!) I sincerely appreciate the sequence, application-of and your demonstration vs. elongated verbal-of how-to…. Thanks again & will be checking out your other videos.
Hello Todd, Thank you for sharing this with us, and for taking the time answer the comments. These are really valuable information. This panel lining technique is very useful. I've been trying to find an alternative to enamel washes, due to the fact that enamel thinners have the tendency to make styrene plastic brittle and could destroy snap fitting kits, like gunpla. This was a great help!
Hi Johnny, Thank you! I have heard through some folks about a number of Gundam kits having bad reactions to the solvents. While I have not had the opportunity to build many myself, this is an issue that cropped up in the armor world as well within the past year or so. Some of the manufacturers seemed to have changed the types of plastic being used to make various parts...tracks being one of them. Using acrylics saved a number of folks from tossing something they spent months working on, from tossing them straight into the bin! Thanks for taking the time to check out the video! I am currently getting ready to hopefully start a small series of new videos covering painting and weathering start to finish. Cheers, T
Thank you for the splendid video on washes, preparation and finishing. I'm new to this level, getting back into scale modeling at age 83. So many new glues, paints, etc. it's overwhelming! Really appreciate your instructions.
You're welcome Bill! I am glad the video was some help. Overwhelming is an understatement. One thing about the acrylic ranges of products is being able to use them all for priming, painting, washes and filters and pigment application. I don't subscribe to having to have "that exact" color to create anything and go with what I feel looks bet. That reduces any stress associated with matching colors. There are a tremendous amount of glues out there to use. They all do serve a purpose. I would say though that I use MEK (which can be found at Home Depot in the paint section) for gluing styrene parts together. It is the same thing as most of the thin cements on the market but a percent of the cost for the amount you get. CA or Super Glue is best for resin and metal parts. I like the small tubes that come in 10 packs from home centers or craft stores. They are cheap and you open a new one when you need it as some of the CA's gunk up and render themselves useless if you use a lot. I use thin and gel forms of CA. and apply with a pin or small piece of wire. I also use standard white PVA glue. It will hold metal parts as strong as CA but cleans up with water. Good luck with your new found modeling adventures.....mot of all, have fun!!
Wow & thanks for your gluing tips. Presently working on a '57 Thunderbird (had a '55 many years ago) and Revell F/A-18E Super Hornet, learning to use a Paache H airbrush. Switching to acrylic paints to reduce exposure to solvents more. Yes, I'm having fun, too. Not being picky on exact colors, but welcoming your tips on finishing more realistically rather than just assembling kits. Thanks again, Todd.
after messing up my first attempt,i thought i would see how to do it correctly. i watched 3 videos in total,yours being the third.your video is by far the best,most informative with clear demonstration of technique. i tried it your way,and hey presto i am suddenly a lot better at modelling,so thanks for that sir.
Great video, I'm not a fan of enamel washes, so bought some of the Vallejo acrylic washes. Was curious about best way to use them, and your video is perfect for explaining how to use. And I'm probably the only guy, and the oldest, that liked the music. Great video, thank you.
LOL...thanks! I did take a little flak about the music before. I have been trying to make an effort to tone it down for the masses...otherwise It would be cranked all the time! Glad to hear the video helped. After that, it is a matter of playing with adding pigments before or after...acrylic paints here and there or using acrylics for washes to expand the color range. There are so many possibilities. Enjoy!!
michael green You are welcome Michael...thanks for taking the time to watch the video. Please let me know if you have any questions and I will do my best to help answer them. Best of luck on the T-62!! i have one in the stash that has been yelling at me to build!! LOL!
Thank you for this video. I've been using enamels and just can't stand their strong odor even when the room is properly ventilated. I've been thinking about using Vallejo's washes and I think I'll give them a shot.
+JOHNNYL1 Thanks for watching Johnny! The acrylic washes do work excellent. You also can make some of your own from the paints as well. This will make your color range that much larger! The acrylics dry much faster than the enamels, so remember to work your weathering in sections....areas not to big that you cannot keep up with the drying. Best to test things out on an old test model. For example, with something the size of 1/35 pz. IV or Sherman I will randomly jump around ....lower hull one side, move to the rear deck maybe, then to the other lower hull and so forth. Any questions I might be able to help with...just ask away! All the best!!
Great Job. I was going crazy cause I can't figure out how that works. Thanks to you video I know how to get the job done. 😊 I was starting Revell Kits 2 weeks ago. Just need an airbrush. Cause with the brush the colour doesn't look that good and there are almost no line left were I can apply the wash. 😂 Sorry for my bad English. Regards from Austria.
I am 62 and after about 30 years, I am just getting back into modelling. I have a big stash of unbuilt 1/48th scale Vietnam era fixed wing aircraft. I am building an F/A- 18 Super Hornet. The aircraft is nearly finished and the paint used on the airframe is Vallejo flat acrylics that were airbrushed according to the color key supplied in the directions. It looks pretty good for a 'warm-up' model as my re-entry example into the hobby. But, I need to apply a wash, bring out the panel lines and weather the bird. I have never done a wash before. As such, I turned to the internet for guidance and found several videos. There were several good videos on the subject, but I liked yours the best. Big question here: Since my painted surfaces are flat/matte Vallejo airbrush acrylic, should I cover with a clear coat before applying the wash? If yes, what type of coat do you recommend, flat or semi-gloss? In the end, I do not want a glossy or shiny surface when the model is complete. I have seen other(accomplished/full-time) modellers who did an otherwise fantastic job, but in my opinion screwed up the model by finishing it with a glossy clear coat. generally today, only the Blue Angels, T-Birds, and trainers have glossy paint schemes. Regular 'line-dogs' have a matte finish. Can you recommend a process to follow to finish this up from the flat acrylic Vallejo paint now on the aircraft. Clear coat it? What type? What type of wash? And after the wash and weathering, should I clear coat it again? Thanks in advance.
Hi John, Well...welcome back to the hobby my friend!! Sounds like you have a pile of goodies to play with too! LOL As for the finishing touches...my standard answer when asked about applying washes, is to protect the work you have done with some sort of clear coat. In addition, a clear coat will help you manipulate the washes (effects) easier since there is a clean smooth layer above the paint. With that said...sometime I forgo the clear coat. This depends on the model I suppose. But not to get too off track, yes, you should probably apply one. Personally I have not noticed a difference in the applications, between flat and semi gloss; however, semi gloss will give you a smoother finish to work over. After your washes, if you want a flat finish, I would take the Matt Varnish and thin it with Vallejo airbrush thinner about 50%...1:1 drop ratio. Apply this in light dusting coats further away from the surface than you paint. Typically I paint about 3 or 4 inches form the surface...I apply a flat coat like this anywhere from 8 to 10 inches away at about 15 to 20 psi. Light dusting....it will dry quickly, you can apply another coat in a minute or two and repeat as necessary. This should flatten out the surface nicely. Remember, when working with acrylic washes...premixed or if you make your own from the paint, try not to get too far ahead of yourself when working. Work smaller areas rather than try and flood coat the entire model. Acrylics, to me, can be the best product to work with when weathering, but the quick drying nature and the natural characteristics of acrylics to cure hard as nails can bite any of us in the butt...LOL While I advocate using acrylic washes (effects) there is a slight "learning curve" to application so as to not get yourself "painted into a corner"...so to speak. If you are using water, as I do in the video, to remove excess and the washes have sat a little too long and do not come off...try adding a 50/50 mix with the airbrush thinner to help break the cure. More heavily weathered vehicles (or wrecks) you can take some liberty and use full thinner to help if the mix does not work....but be careful not to excessively rub the area with thinner as it can sometimes work through a clear coat and paint...depending on the length of time you let the other layer cure. I have had some success...when "bad things happen"...like cured tide marks and such...where I will even use rubbing alcohol. But this is in extreme cases. On quick tip...and I am not trying to sway you from acrylics...or sell you on other products...but some of the enamel washes are excellent as well....if the smell does not bother you, as they are oil based and smell like paint thinner. The enamel washes are very forgiving for people just getting into the weathering process or for those who like to jump back and forth between acrylics and enamels...as one will not affect the other once one layer is dry. Just some food for thought. Once the mechanics are back up to speed, leaning back to acrylics will increase the color palette, drying time and the amount of different effect you have to choose from. Sorry if I rambbled on....LOL Let me know f you run into any issues and I will do what I can to help you through it! Cheers, T
Very nice video. I'm an acrylic junkie and like seeing the word spread. The only thing I'd add is that anytime you use washes/filters the effect is influenced greatly by the model's finish. For pin washes and panel washes I'd recommend gloss or satin. You can use Vallejo washes as filters if they are further thinned - but if so, you'd want a satin or matte finish. Always have medical experiment kits handy to check this kind of thing out. I use acrylic washes all the time - don't like the odor of either enamels or oils. Vallejo is a fine choice. I don't think that thinned Vallejo Model Color is quite the same as one of their dedicated washes - there are conditioners in the washes and I think they help - perhaps slows drying a bit. The big video here "Vallejo Acrylics Techniques" (made by Mig himself I believe) shows how well you can do using these paints. It's about an hour and I think the best of the DVDs done a few years back. I don't know you can do everything with acrylics that wizards like Mig, Wilder or Mike Rinaldi do with oil and enamels (although aggressive use of pigments does not require solvents and can level the playing field nicely) but it's simply wonderful to use something that in theory you could drink with no harm. I might add that as good as Vallejo's washes are, you can get extremely good results with Iwata Com.Art paints - they're likewise translucent acrylics but have a different kind of texture. You can also treat them something like a Flory wash - they never dry rock hard, so if dampened you can remove some the next day. Model railroaders use this stuff and it's worth checking out.
Hello Eric, Thank you for checking out the video and sharing some of your experiences with the washes. I work with Vallejo providing trouble shooting and demos here in the US. One of the first things I tell people when asked about weathering is to use a clear coat. Satin is the middle of the road and will help allowing you to maiulate the effects you are applying. While I have, and do use the washes, I typically will make my own with either Model Color of Model air. The range in colors is too good to pass up. I have not had any issues creating filters or washes with them as of yet. I know there is a slight difference in drying time where the paints will dry quicker. This is of course solved with additives to lengthen the drying time. Besides than the color range, the second most impressive thing about acrylics, IS, that you can do all of the same things you can with enamels and oils but with an advantage. You can progress on the project due to the quicker drying times and the subsequent coats applied minutes later will not remove the last effect added. Each and every product, paints and weathering products will work and get beautiful results when applied correctly. With With acrylics, some folks have an issue getting over the fact they need to slightly change their approach to the application in most cases. If you get the chance to give the Metal Colors or Environmental Effects form Vallejo a try...do it! Simply some great stuff! All the best, T
I just bought three or four of the new metal finishes. They've gotten fine reviews and I'm hoping for the best. As good as it is, I don't have a fan/booth and thus can't think of using Alclad. I've found MC quite easy to airbrush once you get the hang of it (obviously great for hand work), so I've got about 100 MC and 20 MA - luckily they seal well and only a few of the oldest have "turned." But along the way I got the "wash box" of eight colors - I really think that should do the job for most pin washes and filters. But the kind of faux oil effect employed in the video is interesting, and there additional colors could help a lot. At least the quality of the paint is normally very high - not sure that's always been the case with some of the Vallejo "look alike" brands.
That is the beauty of the new MC's, no bad smell. Oddly enough, and I don't know why, I have not made a review of the MC's. While a couple of the reviews are certainly decent, "masking" has not posed and issue at all from what I can see. If the base is cured, and the paint is cured, I have not been able to have even blue painter's tape remove the finish. I have done this even for demos at the shows and was able to mask minutes after applying one color. They are fun to play with. Give thinning and hyper-thinning a hot. I use spoons to test things from time to time. I made up a bunch with glass black on them and applied each color thinned to varying degrees. I liked 2 and 5 drops of thinner to 10 drops of paint and dusted a couple coats like I would shoot Alclad. I also like a 90% thinned...9 drops of thinner, one drop of paint. Dumped the pressure to about 4 or 5 psi and dusted the surface four time waiting about a minute in between....very nice metal finish! The MC does AB decent once the correct thinning mix is applied. I do this from time to time when I run out of a particular color. One note though, there are several colors in the line with cadmium in them. Perfectly safe to use...except when in aerosol form. There should be warnings on the bottle and a copy of the MSDS on the Vallejo Website if you had any questions. Just something to be aware of. Probably not the colors you are using....but you never know unless you looked. Vallejo has been doing paints since the 60's starting with artists paints. They really do know their way around quality. The model lines are actually fairly new in comparison to the others including MS..But there is a really nice consistency to the MA paint that are not to thick and certainly not too thin. Very little though involved for application.
Golden talks about potentially dangerous pigments in their paints - the one they point to is zinc which is found in mixing whites. Actually the "inorganic" pigments like cadmium and the oxides may be worth the caution of a mask while airbrushing. I admit to forgetting. I'll try your suggestions when I start futzing with Metal Colors. I guess Model Color paints don't worry me with an airbrush is that a few years back I pestered the wizards at Golden on how to use their fluid acrylics on styrene and one guy got interested in it. That opened the door to all of the acrylic mediums used by artists and several have proved extremely useful. (Airbrush medium is the obvious - although extender works better if you want a very thin mix. I've also found a drop of GAC200 does make for a tougher finish.) The gels and mediums have the added attraction of use for water etc in dios. I must say that I haven't been impressed with Vallejo's water effects. Hope you don't mind a plug from a potential competitor, but Golden's new airbrush-friendly "High Flow" acrylics are simply terrific. They're the only paint I know that are no joke almost perfect out of the bottle - and the bottles are very neat and even have a BB inside. Per volume, they're less money than Vallejo - except for the ritzy mixers - but they haven't made any effort to do military colors. That's no big problem if one gets a kick out of color mixing. (I've noticed color differences between MC and MA even though in theory there shouldn't be.) I still understand why Tamiya paints remain the favorite overall. They do airbrush extremely well and frankly I'm not sure how good most modelers are with a brush. Someone like Mig or Wilder could do a good model using color crayons. So I know there are Vallejo haters - you can find them on YTube. (There's some guy that just doesn't get Vallejo Primer - figure that out.) Anyway, if I was working for Vallejo on my demos I'd always think about how someone who is used to Tamiya should be shown how to use Vallejo. Once you get the hang of them, water based paints are really sweet. Anyway, I'll check your other videos. Always room for improvement. Eric
It is interesting in regard to the Water effects. Not every product will be liked by all individuals...but I would have to ask what you were trying to accomplish with it and why you thought there was a problem? This is more personal of a question rather than in a professional sense from a "Vallejo Guy". LOL!! While I have only touched the surface of using all of the water effects, what I have found is they have done what I expected so far. Oddly I could not figure out how to post a picture in the comments here on YT... but here is a link to a couple of items ...the M9 and E-75 I did recently and the ships are from Chris Flodberg and and Kostas Katseas... armorama.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=7171&page=1 s18.postimg.org/9x28m14c9/E_75_85_800x531.jpg modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=7232 www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/bb/ijn/Yamato-350-cf1/index.htm I use the water effects to add gloss to figure's eyes also. Woks like a charm! I am never turned off by someone letting me know a product they find to be perfect for their needs. I look at all paints and effects as added tools to my bench. While I choose to use more Vallejo products than most due to the ease in application, I do have just about every name brand and many off brand items to chose form if the moment arises. There are very few items I say that I don't like at all. And it took me a while to come to that decision too...testing every conceivable way to get them to work. I can;t try something once and proclaim it to be junk. There are far to many folks out there doing this with all products. They use it once and expect acrylics to work exactly the same as the solvents they used for years...just cannot be done. (as you know) Tamiya is fantastic. An while an acrylic, it is solvent based. This eliminates any clogging issues you see with standard water based acrylics. The thinning is exceptional too. Lacquer thinner thins fantastically. It comes down to availability and interaction with solvents again. I know there are some of the RU-vid hater, as you called them...LOL!! One of the biggest problems I am asked about with troubleshooting is the primers. 98% of the people I speak to understand what I let them know on using them. That 2 %, really does not want to learn. It almost seems like the tried them to say they did and only so they could then complain. This is where some folks expect acrylics to work just like other solvents. When it doesn't...they are "Sh*t"! LOL!! It comes down to the basics...this is with your comment about how someone who is used to Tamiya should be shown how to use Vallejo. Pressure, Distance, Application. Lower the pressure to 12 to 15 psi, keep within 4 to 6 inches form the surface (for average applications) and apply coats in one or two coats thinly, built up until desired coverage. This is where the Primer-haters loose it. A couple of dust coats is all that is needed for priming...unless you are using the colored primers as the base colors and even then, they don't need to cover the entire model under a heavy coat. Thanks for taking the time to check out the other vids. I am trying to make a set of new ones. I have the new Environmental Effects and thought I would toss some quick application up. Cheers, T
Thanks for the video I'm just getting into the hobby and these washes add so much character to the piece. What Bradley kit is that? I would love to do one of these all done up since I was around one for 3 years
Hi Kyle, You're welcome....thanks for taking the time to check it out! Good news hearing you are just getting in into this hobby...a truly fantastic time for the hobby as a whole! The kit I built was Orochi's M3A3 Deluxe. I think there are still some of these kicking around. I believe the molds were sold and reboxed a little. The one I had came with a metal 25mm barrel and metal tracks. There is a version from Meng that is not too bad from what I heard. The Orochi had some nice interior details where the Meng was lacking...but Meng sells an interior separately. Only big issue I found with the Orochi kit....which is not too big at all, was the ERA's. There is the option to leave them off which is cool, but they come in basically one-piece blocks. If you want to damage or remove any you need to cut away....which I did on the side to offset one bank slightly.
Thanks Bill. It has been while, but I just began what I hope will be a series of short videos that cover priming, painting and weathering. Something I would like to see give a well rounded approach to the basics for people looking for answers to questions they might have. Should be fun I think.
Awesome descriptive video. I'll be using Vallejo washes, but do I have to put down any protective coating on top of the model before adding the wash? It won't cause any harm to bare plastic or other paints will it?
Hi Gregory, Thank you! Model Wash and basically all of Vallejo's products are water based and will not harm any plastics...even thin ABS. Vallejo Paints should not effect, or be effected by other types of paints, such as solvent based paints, as long as they are cured...typically 12 to 24 hours. I always suggest putting down some form of clear coat before any weathering. Personally I will use a semi-gloss varnish. I like to thin Vallejo Semi-gloss varnish around 50% with Vallejo airbrush thinner and dust on a couple of light coats. This prevents the clear coat from being too heavy and allows for quicker cure times. Best of luck my friend!
+Todd Michalak Thanks man that has been a big help I have learned how to airbrush for body work and can do track's but did not know how to wash/streak I have only been painting a short time. I am using vallejo paints greetings from the UK.
+The Dammed You're welcome my friend! I am pleased the video was helpful to you. The more you play with the basics, the more subtle techniques will come about. I am hoping to bring a couple new videos similar to this one soon...one on weathering but with more of the airbrush and possibly pigment applications. Cheers, T
Retired marine tanker here (M1A1 SEP) first of all awesome video and tips! My next question is did you apply any type of clear cote prior to applying wash ?
That you for your service, brother!!! Ok...first things first: I always tell people it is best to add some sort of clear coat between your finished paint work and any weathering. It helps protect the work you have done. I do not always do this...LOL (personally), but a quick semi gloss coat will do just fine. It helps protect, as I mentioned...and it also allows a little ease in manipulating the weathering effects when applying. Okay...second part! LOL I am not sure if you trolled my YT page, the latest videos on there is some quick videos of some work(FUN) restoring some 1:1 tanks with USABOT (United States Brotherhood Of Tankers) USABOT is made up of Tankers and Wrenches, as well as some associate members, spread out over 13 Bn's in the US. If you watch a couple of the videos...you will understand the comradery, fun and rewarding experiences...let me know if you ight be interested in joining....if you're not a member already!! I am not sure where you're located...but you can join at USABOT.com and I can help track down a Bn and CO near you!!
@@5150TRM Thank you for the info, much appreciated. I'm looking for my next build. Hopefully I can manage, the biggest issue thus far is washing and weathering. But, I'm sure it is normal for a newbie such as myself. Again, thank you.
You're welcome. Good luck on finding the next build! There are some amazing models out there now...Tamiya, Rye Field Models...TAKOM, to mention 3. It all comes down to just doing it. The more you do, the easier it gets. If you run into an issues, or have any questions, feel free to drop me a note...I will help out where I can.
I mixed an acrylic wash using some model masters flat black, with about a 20 to 1 mix of distilled water and a few drops of Liquitex flow aid. I tried using the wash on an HO scale refrigerator car but it just puddles up and moves around like mercury - it doesn't really flow into or around crevices at all. I tried adding more flow aid but it made no difference. Should I try making my wash with Acrylic thinner or Isopropyl Alcohol instead of water? Should I have dull coated the model first? Thanks!!
Hi NF6, WHile I do not use MM acrylics...at the moment, what you described sounds like a surface tension issue. However, the Liquidtex should have corrected this. You could try adding a brush full to a drop of dish soap. Also, if you have a Model Master acrylic thinner, yes, it probably will help. Sometimes, if the surface is too glossy you can get an affect like this. I tend to use satin clear coats before weathering ...but a flat should work just as well.
Great video but what is the prep coat before an acrylic filter (not a wash) is brushed on Is it acrylic? (Vallejo varnish?) Is it Matt Satin or Gloss? I’m confused and getting mixed messages. Thank you
Sorry for the late reply...it has been a busy few days! Typically, some sort of clear coat should be applied before the weathering process. In this case, yes, I did use Vallejo's Satin Varnish. I have used Matt as well. I do not use Gloss too often as it gives a shine I have to eliminate somewhere along the line....but you can use that as well. But, any clear coat will work...it is just a barrier to protect your work.
Sorry for the late reply! It is best to put some sort of clear coat between your paint and weathering. It helps protect what you have done as well as it does make application of weathering a bit easier to apply. Typically, I go with a semi gloss but you can use flat or gloss. If there is anything too shiny after you're done, you can dust a light coat of flat over the washes/filters. Try and add dry pigments after the clear coats of any kind as they will darken and not look quite like what you might have been looking for with regards to a finish. Pigment fixers work great to secure heavy pigments and will not change the dry look after the fixer dries. I have also uses a couple drops of clear flat mixed with airbrush thinner and pigments and will give you a dry dusty look....but best to has some fun and experiment beforehand.
many thanks for this excellent video. maybe a stupid question, but do you use acrylic wash on acrylic base coat? or on enamel base coat? thanks in advance.
+Gengis Essafi Thank you Gengis! Not a stupid question at all. You can use the acrylic wash over acrylic, enamel and lacquer if you like. With acrylics, it is good to add a clear coat after painting to help protect your base paint...but if the paint is cured...24 hours or more, there is pretty much no chance of the wash removing the paint.
Hi sekywo, Yes! Thinning with water works perfectly. I have been known to not shake up the bottle up...maybe one quick one, before use making a filter without adding water. Thinner would work, but I think the usual caution applies if you do not have a decent clear coat. Another great use is taking a toothpick to grab some of the sediment on the bottom of an unshaken bottle of wash. This sediment can be used to make streak marks. ;)
Just starting out and found this really interesting, but a quick question... would this be done on a matt varnish or would a varnish be needed afterwards? Thanks
+oOTBONE77Oo Before you o any weathering a clear coat is recommended. You could use a matt finish, but a satin varnish will allow manipulation of the washes a little easier for you. The washes and effects should matt the finish and application of a final clear coat is your option. Personally, I do not use a final clear coat...especially when using pigments after the washes...it will change the appearance of the pigments. But if you see any shine you want gone after applying the washes, feel free to dust in a coat or two of matt varnish to tone down the look. Best of luck in your modelling...remember it all comes down to layers. Build up the effect over several stages. This allows you to control the end result a bit ore and give more depth to the model! ;)
+Todd Michalak Thank you Todd that's cleared a lot up, I'll give that a go and see what I end up with. I have some test pieces that I can use first but thanks for the advice
Hey Todd, I have 2 questions. Have you ever tried the European Dust Model Wash? And what are the steps (or process) to painting a tank? Like what are the layers you need first all the way up to like fine detailing? Thanks!
Hey MM, Yes, I have used the European Dust. This works similar to all of the other washes. You can apply the wash around raised features and whatnot to build up a collected dust look. You can also use the wash, with r without an airbrush to apply a uniform light or heavily dusted look to larger areas. If you apply in areas only large enough to not get ahead of yourself, you can use various tools like flat brushes to pull down on the effects to give you streaking marks. You could also apply a small amount of wash like other streaking washes at a single point and then draw them down to achieve streaking. Painting and steps intailed? Well, while that is not too hard of a question, it is one of those never ending answerable ones! LOL! I don't always follow the same methods when painting. I more or less go with the flow and see what comes out when I get to it. However, there are a few basics that are tried and true to keep things going in the right direction. First being a decent primer base. I like to add a couple of light coats of primer only to the model. Often seeing some of the base model peeking through the color. This would seem strange, but even a lightly applied primer will give you a good base for the paint to bite. Often I like to prime with black as it allows me to control shadows on the model as I paint. Also, sometimes I might use two or three different colors of primer. I will lighten horizontal surfaces and key features with lighter colored primers. I will then typically settle on a base color. This will be lightly applied again concentrating more paint over the darker areas somewhat and slightly moving out from the edge of the panels. With either lighter colors or by adding tans or light greys to the exiting base paint...one or two drops, I can use the new color to fade panel and add continuity and depth to the look. Finally, sometimes I will add even more lighter colored paint if not a drop or two of white to add highlighting to the areas I feel will be lightened through fading and wearing. If you are conscious of areas that will have streaking later on, you can control the application to leave shadows in those areas. Once that is all done, clear coat your work and you can move onto weathering. Thinning the paint and dropping the pressure will give you more control also. The building up of the color will involve more coats in certain areas, but you will not overdo one color and have to go back. I hope some of this helps a little. I also hope to have another video soon too as well. Summertime and work have slowed up the video process! Cheers, T
At the time of application, I do use just water. I lightly dampen the area where I will add the effect, with water, add some wash...then I will clean the edge with a damp flat brush, a soft cloth or makeup sponge. This softens the transition between the effects and the paint, blending seamlessly. "If", I add the wash and do not get to it before it dries...and the water won't soften or manipulate the effect, I will take some airbrush thinner and mix it 50/50 with water to help out. If it was left for a longer time and does not budge, I will reduce the water making the thinner solution a bit stronger. But I am careful not to scrub to hard as the thinner down on fresh paint, will soften the paint. If you have a test model, you can play around with the application and removal without taking a chance with something you are working on!
I was wondering, is the brush you are stippling with damp or dry? Thanks for taking the time to make such an easy to follow video on this subject. It is something I have struggled with for years
+MadAsKiwi Thanks for taking the time to have a look at the video! More often than not, the soft brush is basically dry. I will periodically stipple the brush into a clean paper towel as well as cleaning it and then drying quickly with a few stabs into the towel. Sometimes, depending on how long the wash has been down, I might make the brush humid to damp with water. As the acrylics dry, it will become harder to manipulate the washes. You can dip the brush into a 50/50 mix of airbrush thinner and water to add strength. Be sure to have a good cured clear coat on before the weathering as the thinner, if too strong, may try to work at the top coat of paint. I have had great success in using the thinner and water trick to soften tide marks and edges as well as using it to make streaking with dried washes and/or thinned paint. Play around with some test pieces and have some fun!!
Good day sir I have a question. When applying a wash on a model painted with acyrlic paints does the wash have to be acrylic or can enamel works aswell. Do I have to put on a clear coat and if so what should I use as a clear coat, is hairspray a possible clear coat?
+DzeboVolodija This process of using washes is very similar to enamel washes. Where I use water to carry the wash through the panel lines and remove excess wash, you will want to use white spirits (paint thinner). Enamels are more forgiving in that you can reactivate the enamels up to a couple days from the application with thinner...where acrylics, once they are cured, cannot. If you have acrylic paint applied to the model and you are going to use enamels, you do not need to clear coat as the solvents in the enamels will not effect the oil based washes. However, it is always good to put a clear coat down to protect your work and the clear coat will allow you to manipulate the washes in place a lot easier. A good satin acrylic clear coat work just fine.
It is always best to put some sort of clear coat on before you weather. I tend to use a satin over a gloss, but gloss would work just fine as well. There are times I do not clear coat. The paint is always cured a day or more by the time I start. I use thin layers built up in several coats so there is control over what I am doing. And as long as the paint is cured, there is little chance, if any, of the paint being affected by the washes.
The type of varnish would depend on what type of finish you want in the end. Typically, the Abrams tanks have a flat finish so a Matt Varnish would be best in the end. However, if you are using a varnish for a clear coat before weathering, a satin will give you more leeway with manipulation of the effects. If there is any sort of sheen to the surface after, you can try a couple of light misting coats of Matt thinned 50/50 and dust them on until the sheen is gone. If you have weathering with dry pigments in your final result, be aware that all types of clear coats can change the appearance of the dry pigments, darkening them slightly. I would add some effects after the clear coat to eliminate this from happening.
Sir I must ask a question and perhaps you can offer a link or advice. I am having problems removing the seam from 2 piece barrels like those with many of my Tamiya kits. My skills are improving in most areas but this simple task has given me the most trouble. Thanking you in advance for any assistance.
michael green Hi Michael, Yeah, the dread 2-piece barrel! :P Trust me, nothing to do with skills my friend, they can be a pain to clean! Couple thoughts...for starters, if you can get the barrel mounted into a dremel or drill via gluing a post, rod or something on the breech side of the barrel...where it does not get seen, you can spin the barrel and use fine sandpaper or better yet, sanding sticks until smooth. Don't go too fast and to aggressive as the plastic could melt from friction at higher rpm's. This applies to the large open areas, but it the barrel is segmented i is best to go after it by hand. You can cut sanding sticks to custom shapes to make things easier...also, places like CVS or Walgreens...Walmart (you know what I mean) have almost he same sanding sticks model shops sell in the nail care isles...for a perceptual of the cost! Option #2..."Flex-I-File" Neat little tool that allows you to sand rounded surfaces. Here is a video from a friends website about the tool - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-S7QH10y8LS4.html I got mine from Uschi van der Rosten. They are located in German...not sure where you are from, but I am in the US and shipping is low and I see my stuff in less than a week usually...nothing to complain about. Here is the website if you want to have a look - www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-tools-hardware/ The "Flex-I-File" is sold elsewhere too. Option #3 - Barrel replacement. No one wants to spend more money on a kit than they have too. But when it comes to barrels, they are pretty cheap. RB Models has a great selection, cheap and their shipping is impeccable...again, except from Poland to the US...4 to 6 days and the shipping is maybe $4.5...I find a couple barrels and maybe shackles I need and make the best of the shipping costs. E-bay is another great spot...i only use the Free Shipping option while searching and never bid...waste of time and money. Simple items like the barrels are cheap and sometimes local so you do not have to wait too long. There are a million places out there offering barrels and tools...just be selective and get the best value you can! Hope some of this helps. Cheers, T
Thanks I really like the flex sanding tool! I think I will get that and try some of the sanding sponges from rite aid or CVS. I usually try to build the kits as they come without to many upgrades cause sometimes the cost of metal barrel, fruil tracks, and some zimmerit cost more than the kit. I appreciate you taking the time to answer my question so thoroughly. I will continue to keep an eye out for more of your videos. I am in the U.S. Baltimore Maryland. thanks Again Sir!
michael green You are welcome Michael! Baltimore? Nice! Maybe we will run into each other at one of the shows at some point! I am sure you might know of MicroWorld Games LLC? or RedFrog? Both are excellent sourcing and not too far from your location so quick shipping. I hear you on add-ons! Few an far between when I want to spend more on the parts than the kit! LOL!! The barrels are usually short money...between $10 and $15 and just a faster alternative. While the metal tracks are sweet, I have gotten more or less the same results from whatever comes with the kit...'cept those black bandies in the old Tammy kits...one reason why I build a lot of wrecks....LOL!! No tracks needed!! :) All the best, T
Baltimore is Nice but like other cities it has many issues! LOL I am just getting back to this hobby as I now have more time to pursue it. Been getting better over the last year. Thanks so much for all the information!
michael green Best time to get back into the hobby! So many new kits, new techniques and almost too many new "tools" (paints, weathering ad otherwise) to play with!! Enjoy!!
Stunning build! I’m curios, I’ve got the M3A3 IFV Bradley BUSK III 1/35 scale by MENG and I also bought the interior set for M3A3 IFV Bradley BUSK III 1/35 scale by MENG.. I am curios, what did u used for the desert color?
Thank you! The Meng is a nice kit...you should enjoy the build! Typically I don't subscribe to "exact" coloring, more of a "what I see" sort of coloring. But I did use colors from the Vallejo Desert War - Zenith Transformation set (71153) I happened to have kicking around. You can see what is in the set here - www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/desert-war-(zenith-transformation)/family/17/97 There was a variation of the "Black and White" technique used before painting. I blogged the build on my forum (MSC) and it might be easier to scroll through and see what colors I used and when...LOL Sorry but the mind is a little tiered at the moment! Here is the link to where I started painting ... modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/8400/orochi-bradley-deluxe-edition-complete?page=4 Please let me know if you have any questions and I will do my best to help answer them. Also, you can feel free to sign up over on MSC and ask there as well! Cheers, T
Todd Michalak - yes it is and I really love the Bradley with the interior.. oh daaaang.. I didn’t know that they have a set for Amazon for $43.99.. I just already order the Vallejo ice yellow, US. Desert Sand, Desert Tan, Sand Yellow, Beige from the Amazon and all paints for the Vallejo that I purchased from Amazon is gonna be here on Tuesday.. and I also already order the Vallejo Pigment set and some wash and AK interactive wash/striking interior..
Sounds like you have an arsenal of toys coming soon! Let the painting an weathering fun begin! :) Those colors should work out excellent for you. Bet of luck on the project...enjoy!
Todd Michalak - yeah. I have my own page on Facebook and it’s a Bryan’s Hobby u can see there all my latest build and u can also see my build WIP for M3A3 IVF Bradley BUSK III 1/35 scale by MENG..
Just found it and gave it a like! Always great seeing the build come to an end and getting ready for color! Well done on the construction! Bring on the Paint!
Hello Christos, Thank you! As for the clear coat, it is always best to put one down to protect the work you have done previously. I typically add a couple of applications of satin. These are more dusting applications nothing built up too much. Barely a sheer to the surface. I will thin Vallejo's Satin Varnish with a drop or two of Airbrush thinner and dust on a couple coats and allow to cure before moving on. The added benefit to a clear coat will allow you to manipulate the washes and effect easier.
You can apply washes without the appearance of a clear coat if you want, just start light and build up the effect in layers. Depending on the paint under the washes will depend how the washes react. With acrylic paints, as long as they are cured, they should not come off. Gloss coats also tend to cause beading sometimes...which could be a surface tension item in the washes themselves. When thinning, try and not use tap water....a little airbrush thinner or even a drop or two of alcohol can help break the tension.
Thank you my friend. "waterproofing"? Is this for a boat or ship application? In any case, once acrylics fully cure (12 to 24 hours) they should not wash off with water. You can also seal your work with a clear coat...which will add another level of protection. I hope this helps some. Please let me know if the waterproofing is for something other than use in water. :)
Excellent! About to try Vallejo Wash for the first time, fingers crossed. Music is fine, it's just not my style. It ain't Mozart, but what can you do? Maybe some WW2 era music, like Glenn Miller?
Thanks James! Best of luck with your first go around. Start light and build up until you are comfortable with using either the washes or acrylics as washes. Try not to get to far ahead of yourself too. Work big enough areas that you can keep up with as they do dry faster than other effects. I tend to work small sections randomly over the model and come back a few minutes later and add more or other effects. Once they dry they are more difficult to manipulate, so only a few minutes is enough to continue on without damaging what you already did . Have fun! Let me know if you have any questions, I will do my best to help where I can!
I would until you are comfortable using them. It does make it easier to manipulate them and for flow into panel lines and such. I prefer Satin Varnish over Gloss. But that is just how I do it. I tend to add one drop of thinner to every 4 or 5 drops Satin Varnish. Then only a couple dusting coats to give you some protection. Let that cure for a bit. 12 to 24 hours is best, but honestly, if you are not scrubbing away on the surface, A good hour or so is all that is needed.
Thanks for this useful information. If you don't use a gloss or satin varnish first, doing all these washes on top of flat paint, will that work at all?
Roxy Katt Hi Roxy, Yes, a flat clear coat will work just fine. Half of the the battle is protecting the work you have done. The other have is allowing the washes to be manipulated a little bit easier (not a huge difference) as seen with the satin or gloss because of their smoother finish.
+Todd Michalak If I am reading this correctly, basically you are replacing a step with something simple. Instead of giving the model and overall coat of gloss or satin, so that the washed flow better, you are applying water first, and the wash will flow wherever the water is, so the water is basically acting the same as what an overall gloss coat would do?
+Scott Millican Hi Scott!! There are two school to this. First would be, as you know, always best...or safest to clear coat prior to any weathering; this will of course protect work you have done up until this point. The clear coat also allows easier manipulation of the weathering you are applying. Second possible rule is you can in fact add the washes over the "cured" paint, as I often do. The washes do flow nicely on just the painted surfaces. Yes, wherever the water is applied, the wash will disperse to. Dampen only a panel line with water, the wash flows right along the line and you can clean up the edge with a flat humid brush easy enough. If you dampen a large area, you will see the wash fan out and dissipate. Any questions or concerns, just let me know.
I'm curious, why would you need to thin this wash with water? Isn't the point of buying a wash to have something ready to use right from the bottle? Thanks!
Yes, a good deal of the process of buying a ready mixed wash is being able to use it directly from the bottle...and you can. I just prefer to thin a lot of the time as it gives me more control because I like to apply multiple layers building up the finish instead of trying to do it all at one shot. Thinning in differently allows me to get multiple tones form the same wash as well as filters in any color I choose. I like to keep my options open...LOL!
Hi Adam, There is not too much difference between the two. The game wash appears to be slightly thicker in consistency to the Model wash, but like the Model wash, it can be simply thinned using water or acrylic thinner. I use the game wash a lot with figures as it makes the features pop! I have been know to use it for average pin washes on other models.
Th Vallejo washes are water-based acrylics formulated with a modified acrylic resin so that the superficial tension is similar to that of the traditional solvent-based washes and filters.
Hello, my friend! When it comes to mixing ratios, there is no exact science to making washes. 50/50 is the best place to start...so mixing equal parts of acrylic paint to water gives a mid range wash. To break some of the surface tension of the paint, I will add a drop or two of airbrush thinner (or cleaner) to the mix. The thinner the mix, sometimes the easier it is to control the results. If the mix it too thick and it is a dark color, you may over darken the area you are working on...this is why I will use lighter washes and build them up over a few applications. This is another reason why I like using acrylic washes, they dry very quickly allowing me to keep going. With oils and enamels...which are excellent choices for washes by the way...you do need them to cure a bit before going over them as any solvent thinner will cut right through what you put down. With acrylics...once they dry, they are more difficult to manipulate. Another reason I will tell people to start out using enamel washes...like AMMO for Mig as they are forgiving! Once the mechanics of applying the washes are down, using acrylics become a lot easier.
Number for which color my friend? For the paint, or the washes? For the washes, I am using "oiled Earth" from the Model Wash line...76521. I also make washes from any of the paints from Model Color, Model Air and Panzer Aces. They all will thin down for washes. Typically, I will use something in the dark brown range to start with. This is why the Oiled Earth Wash is excellent for washes and filters.
Excellent video. There was adapting me in using this wash acrylic. One question: you need one satin or gloss varnish layer to the technique of application? Thank U.
Hello Helerson, Yes, you can apply one application of the Satin or Gloss varnish and let cure, then start your weathering! I typically will add two thin applications, back to back and then let it cure over night. These are thin applications too, as I don't want to completely cover the model in one application.
Todd Michalak Thank you for your quick response. Another doubt. The glossy or satin varnish layer is acrylic? I'm having problems in applying the acrylic wash for dry very quickly and form a crystallized thin film that covers the surface and can not take with water unless using the cleaner for airbrushes of Vallejo. I hope you understood what I described. I can not the effect you present in the video. What could I be doing wrong? Thank you for your attention.
What is happening is the acrylic washes dry extremely fast. If wash buildup seen with tide marks and excess wash around raised features drys it becomes increasingly more difficult to remove as the washes are curing after they dry. Acrylics by nature will dry very fast as you know. The best wash to counteract this process is to work smaller areas when applying the washes. In terms of a 1/35 scale tank, apply wash to one side of the lower hull, allow to dry slightly for a minute or two, then with a damp brush work the area until you get the look that you desire. As you know, using the cleaner or thinner will in fact cut the dried wash but will also have the potential to eat through paint and even varnish if not cured. If you need to use the cleaner or thinner to remove a stubborn mark, try cutting the cleaner/thinner with water 50/50. This might allow you to remove the marks and not harm the finish. I am not sure if you are on Facebook at all, but I have an example of wash process SBS posted on the Vallejo FB page - facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.985505824811813.1073741930.267763626586040&type=1 Please let me know if you can see this or not. I can send a copy to you if needed. It shows how I work smaller areas at a time allowing me to control the weathering process. I believe there is some thought to a wash retarder coming soon which will hopefully allow the wash to remain wet longer and help prevent the quick drying marks than can not be gotten too before the cure.
Todd Michalak Again, thank you for your prompt response. Certainly my problem of adaptation to acrylic wash, is its extremely fast drying time. And after drying, the difficult removal of excess water. I'll try your tip to dilute with water, leaving the weak wash. Certainly, a drying retardant would be ideal to work the acrylic wash as it were, wash enamel or oil. I looked her facebook page and amazing job on 38t. Congratulations! So testing your tip, I pass you my impressions. Thank you for your help.
Helerson M. Maciel You are most welcome. Try and work smaller sections until you become more comfortable with larger areas and you will have an easier time cleaning the areas. Think in terms of layers as well. It is better to add several light layers of any weathering and build them up over multiple applications. This way you can control the amount you want to apply better and it adds depth to the finish.
I suppose that would be up to the user. I do not typically model aircraft, however, both would do the trick from what I have seen. Black is a strong color, but with a good clear coat it responds rather well.
dark grey wash or dark brown wash？, both are 35 ml, and both for 9.74 dollars. one says for dak grey and dark vehichles, and dark brown says for light colors. but if i want one, wich one?
I would say you might get more use form the dark brown. I actually use Oiled Earth as my go to color. It is similar to using umber or van dyke brown in the oil range. I would suggest looking for this one over the Dk Brown. Also, you can mix the washes with other washes or acrylic paints to change the color to your liking. A little black or white...even flesh tones will shift the colro range for you getting more uses from the one effect.
Hi Tommy! In the end, the actual color you choose does come down t the person applying it, honestly. However, Black is a bit of a wildcard with me. It is a very heavy color and I tend to pick and choose carefully when using it. The middle of the road wash for me is the brownish colors....Oiled Earth to be exact. My kind of go-to wash. With that said though, the dark yellow can support some other colors as well such as Panzer Blue oddly enough, greens as even the brighter rust wash. Start light no matter what color you choose and build up your effects in layer rather than trying to do it all at once.. It is easier to add more where and when you like than it is to remove.
Hi Mike, I suppose there would not be too much difference other than, while Tamiya is an acrylic, it is solvent based. if you apply a wash coat and want to go back over it after it dries, you do run the risk of the solvents breaking down the initial coat. I know Tamiya paint does not typically hand paint very well for this reason. There are a couple of reasons there are specific washes and filters being sold, not just by Vallejo, but many other companies. One being it easier of course. Not everyone wants to take the time in creating specific washes... just grab a bottle and go. The other is consistency. If someone runs out of a particular wash and buys a new one, it will be exactly as the first....and ready to go. With that though...I do still make my own as well, but with any of the Vallejo paints. This gives me a range of wash colors equal to if not greater than the entire paint line.
You are right.I just tried watering down some Tamiya flat black,it works ok,but left a streak and dried almost instantly.I tried again and had a cloth handy ready to wipe the streak,but could not remove it before it dried.
If you have a good clear coat down on your surface, and run into something that needs adjusting or removal, you could try cutting some rubbing alcohol with water and lightly applying it. I know with the water based acrylics, they dry extremely fast and cure quickly making it almost impossible to remove even after 15 minutes or more sometimes. I will use airbrush thinner mixed with water to start with, then go full strength if the first did not work. I have also been known to use straight alcohol as a last resort...but again, a good clear coat will help prevent destroying prior work.
Hi Bento! I appreciate you giving the vid a watch....and the kind words on the painting. As for the music...I would apologize for it, but it was just some tunes that were free to use when I made the video a number of years ago.
