V15 Climber on Most Common Hangboarding Mistakes | ft Ned Feehally 

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Climbing's the fine line between consistency and avoiding injury

6:32 it almost looks like his leg was edited in separately 😂 😳

TNCP is the standard of getting all kinds of different aspects on how to approach your training, this info is just there now and I appreciate you to the fullest man

I'm more impressed by Ned's ability to get their heel above their head for heel hooks, holy 6:32

Consistency = Key He’s totally right and I love that it’s such a simple answer. I’ve just started small amounts of hangboarding & can’t wait to see how my fingers feel in a year 😈

I see a lot of people complaining about injuries, take into account is that Consistency doesn't mean sticking to the plan in excruciating detail. It's the feedback loop you get from recovery that needs to be consistent, if you notice your hands got a beating on a training session, skip the hang-boarding so you can do it when fresh. Lots of strength adaptation comes from high quality intense work, to put in the time takes a long time since if you tried it all at once you would get injured. To improve consistency it dramatically helps to prioritize recovery, but you need to listen to your body. Just because of your choice of project you might have booked double your normal time hanging with body weight on crimps in a single session, it would actually be inconsistent to do the hang-boarding on top of that. Go train something else with your energy and stay injury free as long as possible!

Which also means staying injury free. I think that is the biggest thing I overlooked as a climber starting out. Going so hard that get knicked up and need a month here a month off there...and all of a sudden your consistency is shot.

That heel hook at 6:30 looked like someone else's leg rofl.

I think the answer is light efforts of consistency, people mistake consistency to mean max loading consistently, but I think that's a mistake and leads to injuries.

When he talks about max hangs, is that maximum time hanging on a board, or is it the maximum weight you can hang with?

The bit where Louis Parkinson explains his breathing style would be a great clip for YT. maybe with some footage of riverbed interspersed

I've always been unsure of how to balance climbing with hangboarding. I'll try his recommendation of 3 maximum hangs during warm-up.

I’m in the fifth week of my six week training plan with the crimpd app. It’s the first training plan I’m using since I’ve started climbing one year ago. It’s mainly focused on wrist, shoulder and finger training. After the first 3 weeks I’ve noticed that I have more endurance and power in my underarms and hands. My shoulders are growing like crazy 😅 My performance on the fingerboard with body weight repeaters and max hangs, increased just slightly. That covers the experience shown in this podcast scene :D

i cannot do it consistently even if i have the discipline for it. my tendons hurt at some point and i have to stop for a week or more.

6 week programs are pretty useless when tendon hypertrophy takes around 8 weeks