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Hello friends, this is Steven Dimmitt.
I love podcasts. I love to be a fly on the wall, listening to conversations and learning from people who have different perspectives than my own. For years, there was a climbing podcast I was dying to listen to, but it didn’t exist. Eventually, I decided to make it myself.
This is a podcast about climbing and self-improvement. But beneath that, it is a podcast about being a human being. I truly believe that everyone can teach us something. We just have to ask the right questions.
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Imo it's also the difference between most beginner and more advanced climbers, people are also more likely to stick with the sport when they are more content with falling... Though there are notable exceptions of course
How so? It seems to me that he is recommending stuff people are missing. Like everybody is doing pull ups, there is no value on saying it again and again
@wiesono2221 he's right that those muscles need training but, his exercise selection for those muscles is far from optimal. Climbers often do not understand basic training science when it comes to strength vs hypertrophy vs endurance.
A great side quest for any climber is the ability to overhead press their bodyweight. It tends to not be a high interference lift but the returns in investment are really high.
That's interesting. Two question if I may: 1. What are the benefits? 2. How far am I from this goal in your opinion if I can do 3 sets of 7 reps with 50% of my bodyweight? I never tested my one rep max
I’ve really enjoyed going through my usual warm-up routine on rest days. I get my body moving and temp up, maybe do some very light finger stimulus and then call it. Feels really good. Or scoping boulders and lightly pulling on holds is a great rest day :)
Damn, I've got 15cm pretty much on the button. I think this is the first strength or flexibility benchmark for climbing I've ever hit, and I don't even train it!
yes. heel needs to touch the ground. don't get too caught up on the actual measurement from the wall relative to other people since foot length vs shin length affects this. the main thing is just to try to decrease the ankle angle and just improve your own foot distance from the wall.
Everyone here being upset that BMI isn't a great indicator needs to fucking chill. It's an indicator. It's a warning sign. It's literally doing nothing at all from their side except saying "ey btw that person is underweight maybe check on them". That is never a bad thing at a BMI of 17. That is low af even for a very young teenager.
This man should be revered for his accomplishments, in a world where what you do supposedly counts for something, well, he should be in the absolute elite!!!!! WOW WOW what on the FK man!!!!!!!!! I can't find the words
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't bouldering kinda naturally evolves from the very thin body ideal by simply having lots of dynamic, strenght requiring boulders, even for the women? Kinda seems like the meta isn't to be as thin as possible, but to have decent muscles, similar to Janja. I'd also assume that with modern times, something more advanced, like Inbody fat and muscle ratio measuring device could be used for this in place of BMI.
A lot of female athletes plateau during puberty, a common way to avoid that is to develop an eating disorder, which means they keep having a linear progression in their sport through their teenage years like their male counterparts, but do lasting damage to their bodies in the process.
His articulation of climbing is next to none. He's literally evolving the language we use to describe climbing and it's nuances faster than anyone else out there. What a contribution thus man is making to our crazy artform! P.s. Shout out to Cinematic Orchestra
Just watched this Olympic event, and i think we were done a diservice as viewers, and the athletes were done a diservice on their first ever Olympics having to suddenly be able to compete with world class athletes in categories that they had very little to no experience in. Plus we only got to see 3 boulder problems, probably because all of the events were mashed together and there's obviously a time and peak performance limit. Glad they separated speed from the other 2 events. Hopefully lead will be separated from bouldering soon so we can get the best of each category competing in peak condition.
It is crazy low if you have about 5 kg of muscle mass more than the average person. Idk if you have ever lost or gained 5 kg of fat. Imagine being a regular person at BMI 17 and replacing 5 kg of fat with muscle mass. You will be left with 0 fat and a potentially lethal problem.
I was at that BMI once, it wasn't healthy. Obesity kills you slowly while starvation takes you out much faster. Even if there's a way to be healthy at that BMI it should warrent further investigation.
Saying that its "crazy low" makes it sound like no one could possibly reach it without doing crazy diets. Many people are under weight just following their natural appetite. No one would say a bmi of 26 was a "craaaazyyy high" number
Do you have the same muscle mass as a pro athlete? Now imagine having to sacrifice 1 kg of fat for every kg of muscle mass you lack compared to a pro climber. How many kilos do you really have to spare before you are a case for the hospital?
Absolutely amazing climber. Also he really *likes* discourse markers. He utters approximately 147 "like" filler words in this ~10 minute segment. So 1 every 4 seconds or so.
@zacharysprunt3398 true, it's probably best that they are trying to reach out to the worst cases. I wish there was a better way to identify and discourage eating disorders in our sport.
There is zero chance. Before I started lifting I had zero muscle mass as I didn't do labour or stimulating sports and I was about .5 to 1 over the min healthy bmi at 15-16ish% body fat. You aren't being hospitalised while being a healthy weight via bmi unless you've previously gained a ton of muscle
