Vacuum car AC / RECHARGE Car Air Conditioning / Get COLD Air in your Car 

😂 😂 😂 Exactly! Had the same thought...

Many thanks!!!

Thanks!

You're welcome

Thank you 👍

Thanks for your feedback! Since the weight of the hose and can are constant, you don't really need to account for those. Just take the starting and end weights. The difference is in the system. Just remember to take starting weight after you've bled the charge line. Also it's a range that you're aiming for e.g., 500 - 550g. I usually work with the higher value to account for any insensible loss.

@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you.. I wonder if you can elaborate on something. On my 2015 Chrysler town and Country I found that my AC was blowing warm this summer, and I used a single can to sorta feel some cold. But during an inspection of the right rear shock, I looked up and noticed a green liquid coming from the rear expansion valve junction. I now figured why the AC system continued to fail. So I looked into what is involved with this job. You tube videos (including yours) gave me a good perspective on the re-charge part of this job. However, I would first need to open up the rear and inspect for the parts at fault. This I have done. I actually found that the aluminum with rubber O-rings had deteriorated and therefor caused the leak. The Evaporator was like new, so I purchased the expansion valve and O-rings. I purchased an air vacuum pump, manifold gauge/hose set, 2 new Schrader valves, the Pag 46 oil and three 12oz cans of R134a freon. *** My question is more on the replenishment of the amount of pag oil required. Being that this was leaking (I guess) all winter, I have no idea how much oil has escaped. Which begs to ask, "How much pag 46 oil should I add?" My dual air system normally takes 1150g (2.53 lb) of R134a, and about 6oz pag 46 oil. But I don't believe All the oil has leaked out. So I wonder if Anyone has a general rule of thumb, as to if adding 3 or 4oz is fine when having had this type leak and repair? What say ye? Be blessed and encouraged my friend.

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Thanks for the compliment! The links are in the description for the video. Just before comments. Let me know if you don't still see them.

Don't know why I didn't think of this the first time! The link here as well www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Car-air-conditioning/Car-refrigerant-oil-filling-quantities-2114/

Thanks so much

There are specific volumes to add when each of those parts are replaced. The new compressor usually comes with the oil, but there's a specific instruction on how drain the old, measure and use this to inform the new one. I don't have it at the top of my head, but just check online for the specs for your model year.

The system doesnt have a leak. But it's good to fix any leak present. Yes, high side should always be closed. If fluid it filling up the spy glass, you need to reduce the filling rate by closing the valve on the gas a bit.

Good observation. The first can was not full. I had used part of it for a different job. Net weight of a full can is 340g

Oil should always be added except if the refrigerant you have already has oil in it. You always have refrigerant and oil in the system and a leak will discharge both. A cars service manual usually states the amount of oil to be replaced for leak repairs. The manual for the 7th gen Accord states 25mls for leak repairs.

Oil should always be added except if the refrigerant you have already has oil in it. You always have refrigerant and oil in the system and a leak will discharge both. A cars service manual usually states the amount of oil to be replaced for leak repairs. The manual for the 7th gen Accord states 25mls for leak repairs.

Thanks for the request. I'll add Turkish.

Hi thanks for your comment. Do you mind explaining this a bit further? It's not yet clear to me.

@@DIYAutoworksNG subcool is your liquid and superheat is your vapor. if your subcool is higher than your superheat than your overcharged --- if the subcool is lower than your superheat then your undercharged the idea is to have subcool and superheat as the same temperature

Thanks for the explanation. I am not really versed with liquid charging and don't have the tools for it yet. My understanding is that charging as liquid is usually done via the high side and these small cans cannot withstand the pressure on the high side of the system.

@@DIYAutoworksNG wrong, you always charge on the low side always. its not hard to do ill send you link to a video

@@DIYAutoworksNG ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fVaM2kAN4s8.html&ab_channel=Chaddz3

Was the system evacuated before vacuuming?

@@DIYAutoworksNG yes, that's what I can figure out

Are you certain you didn't have some oil left in the lines prior? Either way, I'd just add the recommended amount listed by the manufacturer and recharge (assuming you didn't replace any components).

@@DIYAutoworksNG I took it apart completely,lines, evaporator valve, but , I didn't change the condenser.

@@howlingmedia4354 then, you're meant to add the recommended amount of oil volumes specified when replacing those items. I'm guessing you flushed the lines? Another question, did you add the oil before vacuuming? If you did, that could be the reason.

The needle of the gauge went below zero which indicates vacuum. The system should hold the vacuum and not drop if left standing for an hour.

I've seen other people close the valve as if to test the system for leaks. I'm confused. How can it test the system for leaks when the valve closes off the gauge from the system?

The valves close off the system from the service/charge line and vacuum pump. It doesn't close off the gauge from the system. Its correct to close the valves while observing for leaks. If you leave the valves unlocked you'll leave the vacuum pump/line in the mix.

@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you for the quick replies. I understand now.

Cheers!

Thanks for your comment. I'm trying to understand the question. Can you clarify?

How much in psig the low and the high side show on the gage because I don't have a scale is that clear thanks God bless

A good question and observation. 1. Vacuuming doesn't remove the oil from the system, but the leak that preceeded the refill or if a part was changed, will remove some oil from the system. E.g., Honda service manual recommends adding 25mls of ND-8 oil if you are recharging after leak repair. The most important thing is to follow the recommendation from the manufacturer. 2. There isn't any air left in the blue or red lines, remember that the system was vacuumed and vacuuming happened through both the low and high sides when their valves were opened.

Does the magnetic clutch still engage? You didn't overcharge the system right? You may want to hook up a manifold gauge to the system, let's see what the pressures are at.

@@DIYAutoworksNG it was good and cold for a day and yes the clutch engages. I won't have access to the car again until next weekend but I'll put the gauges on it and I'll let you know.

Okay. Also, be sure to also check the cabin air cleaner element or filter. A clogged filter compromises cooling.

@@DIYAutoworksNG ok so I was just informed by the owner that it starting blowing cold again for a while. They took a half hour trip in the car and it blew cold again. When they drove back it was hot again. So, what do you think about that? Again I don't have access to it until this weekend.

Could be a failing AC clutch relay or the AC clutch itself. Intermittent operation is one of the early signs of final failure.

Totally not true. Remember that pressures are determined by ambient temperature. See this temperature pressure chart. carcody.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/r134a-low-pressure-chart.jpg At 30o Celsius, you may even have up to 300psi on the high side.