Various Bits 2020 / 2021... coming soon! 

Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching!

Thank you!

Hi Terry... thanks for stopping by. Happy Holidays to you & yours!

Happy holidays to you & yours!

Backish.

Thank you.

Same as the last one... 4 walls, some hoists and a bunch of noisy coworkers. But, there's more beer in the fridge! =)

Me too! LOL

You too... thank you for watching!

Thank you for sharing... you've had better success in the industry than me! Thank you for having watched!

Thank you... nice to hear! Thank you for watching!

@@EXOVCDS hello...I have a 88 Cabriolet.CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE. How can I contact you????????????

I'm in Kelowna and will bring my 88 cabriolet to you ti fix please.Can you be contacted for work?

@@stuckhere1797 what's the issue. I help via RU-vid posts or email. I'm sure we can solve the issue that way.

Nice to hear!

Happy holidays to you & yours as well!

So much stuff that I need to go through & edit... I might just end up saying screw it. LOL

First thing I would check, yes. Sunroof drains and door seals after.

You just did... start telling me what the issue is.

I'm not a tranny guy sorry... contact Richard at: ru-vid.com Or at: kansascitytdi.com/ He knows 01m inside out.

Hi there, I would see if you could find someone with VCDS to scan the transmission module of the car. I had a 2004 Jetta (with the 5 speed automatic, not the 4 speed), and it had the same issue. An incredibly hard shift from first gear to second gear. I can't remember exactly which solenoid it was anymore, but there is a solenoid that controls the "shift pressure" (maybe N91, or N93?, sorry it's been years) and it had a fault code for either open circuit or short. I checked the wiring going from the transmission connector to the transmission module under the cowl and found there were no issues with that. I ended up replacing that specific solenoid, but the issue and fault remained. Ended up replacing the transmission control module under the cowl, as it had an internal problem and it solved the issue. I'd recommend looking into that module specifically, matching it up with the part number! A little easier than replacing the transmission lol I don't have much 01M experience, only the 09A when it comes to Mk4 Automatics, but food for thought!

@@Whatspistonslap wow thanks I will do that.

@@Whatspistonslap I actually have another TCM so I’ll try that.

I don't know what you mean.

@@EXOVCDS im doing my upper control arms on my 1999 audi 1.8t. I’m going to use the map heat torch to loosen the bolts. Just wanted to know is it safe to store the map gas in my house after I use it? Im

Just Googled it... wasn't familiar with Map torch. Basically just a propane torch. As long as the on / off knob is working correctly (no gas escapes), I don't see why it wouldn't be safe to store inside.

@@EXOVCDS ok cool thanks man

@Thomas EXOVCDS hey man I’m About to install my. Rubber gasket on my engine oil. Do I also have to put RTV on it as well?

Also when I take off the pcv valve cap I think it runs bette

Catalytic converters go bad with age... they also go bad when there are fuel mixture issues. If the material inside is loose, it is probably obstructing exhaust flow. Which results in lack of power. Replace the converter... then you can do further testing / checking of other components / systems.

@@EXOVCDS thank you

Disconnect the gas cable at the throttle body. Same thing / high idle? Does the throttle body have a throttle bypass screw? Is the throttle stop screw in the correct position? Does the vehicle have ac? Are the heater controls away from the ac & defrost positions? Is ignition timing correct?

Thanks will try these things

North America vehicle or Europe?

@@EXOVCDS both

erWin USA: erwin.vw.com/erwin/showHome.do erWin Europe: erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/showHome.do

Both sites have buttons to go to Audi site.

Nein, kann ich leider nicht.

Could be... scan for codes in the abs module. If no communication, check power & grounds at the module. If ok, it might be a bad abs module.

@@EXOVCDS ok cool thanks

@@EXOVCDS hey man if i had to replace could I get one from a junk yard from 2001-2002? . I know my Audi A4 is a 1999.

Has to have the same options as your car / module coding. Coding can be changed with a capable scan tool. At minimum match the same part number on yours with a used one... then, if coding needs to be changed, have it changed.

@@EXOVCDS ok great man I appreciate you.

Hi, sorry. I reply to a lot of posts and lose track of what car people are working on. Your Avant ground cable is close to the starter. Post a video of what is happening. From inside the car recording the instrument cluster while you turn the key... and the engine compartment while someone tries to start the engine.

@@EXOVCDS okay I will

Hey Thomas it was my red starter connector hose with the connector. I’m going to replace my starter and connector. hey man I notice car won’t move in neutral after I replaced my clutch. I also seen that all wheels rotates In different directions when I spend them by hand on the jacks. Can you tell me what I did wrong ?thanks man!

It might not be in neural when you think it's in neutral. Double check the way you reconnected the linkage. Spinning one wheel can cause another to rotate (even in neutral) when the wheels are off of the ground.

@@EXOVCDS with all four wheels on the ground it still won’t move when I tried to push the car by hand in neutral with the engine not running.i check the linkage Thomas thanks

Throttle body codes can set when the battery voltage is on the low side... the engine can still start even when voltage (while cranking) drops below 10 volts. If the voltage remains low for too long after the engine starts, then the ecm can not do proper "basic settings" to the throttle body. Cleaning the throttle body is always a good idea. You don't have to remove it... just remove the intake boot and wipe the inside with a rag (soaked with brake parts cleaner, maf cleaner or gasoline). You can open the throttle by pushing against it with one finger, hold it open and use your other hand to wipe the bore clean. The ecm will do the basic settings / alignment of the throttle body on its own. Just drive the car as usual... the idle will settle over time (if it is high after cleaning). Using a scan tool makes things easier, because you can right away see if the alignment was successful. Thank you for watching!

@@EXOVCDS thanks man.could that be the reason why every time I hit gas pedal the engine shuts off right away? My throttle is cable operated.

@@James-fl2ug not sure... maybe. Did this start happening only after battery disconnect? If the problem wasn't there before, then it should go away once battery voltage is stable, codes have been cleared and the ecm has run basic settings.

@@EXOVCDS yessir

@@EXOVCDS hey man I also have code P0102 Maf low input signal. I hope it’s not my MaF sensor.

How far away is the transmission from the engine?

4 inches

@@James-fl2ug most likely, the input shaft is not centered in the clutch disc / hitting the clutch disc spline hub. You need to wiggle / tilt the transmission till the input shaft finds the hole in the clutch disc. Once the tip of the input shaft enters the clutch disc, you need to make sure that the input shaft splines line up / mesh with the splines of the clutch disc. Put the transmission in gear (any gear) by pushing / pulling on the shifter rod that is on the transmission. Once in gear, rotate both output shaft flanges in the same direction (doesn't matter which way, as long as both turn the same direction)... this causes the input shaft to spin and can help line up the splines with the clutch disc. Push the transmission towards the engine at the same time (a second person is helpful).

@@EXOVCDSokay great thanks man

Hey Thomas how will I know that the center spline is in the clutch hub? Will it get tighter?

Year, make, model, engine?

@@EXOVCDS 1999 audi avant 1.8t manual transmission

When replacing camshafts or installing camshafts... the hydraulic lifters are fully extended. Which means that the lifters can keep valves open (after the camshaft is installed) even if the cam lobes are not pushing down on the lifters. For that reason, the crankshaft has to be away from tdc (all pistons slightly down), so that no valves can make contact with any piston. After 30 min or so, the lifters have collapsed and valves will be closed (#1 tdc). You can then turn the crankshaft to tdc and install the belt.

@@EXOVCDS I’m actually just replacing the front plastic seal of the exhaust cam. Should I still follow the steps you told me thanks!

@@James-fl2ug No. Set to TDC will be fine since lifters are already collapsed.