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Certainly the best solution! 👍 If you'r not looking to dismantle the gearbox, probably a piece of open cut pcb pipe which clamps onto the shaft would do the trick, secured by some tire wraps of a hose clamp.
This really helps. I just bought the same one and I immediately check the gearbox. Mine got the problem with bar that hold 3 gears, it bends and wobbly. Maybe because the bolt (4x L5 M6x85) didn't tight enough and entire gearbox moving up and down. I have a plan to tap the hole for now, and check the gearbox lever. But I worried when I open the lever and make the bushing, I can't put it back again. Hahaha. The another thing in mind it's make new bar that hold the gear, make it wider so we can put thrust bearing or something and put a tensioner so its pressed the gear to the spindle better.
Dude this is awesome. Let me fix my mini lathe with another lathe that I don’t have hence the reason I bought the mini lathe to begin with. thats wicked 🤟
You can still use the lathe, as the gearbox shown in the video is for controlling the lead screw (forward, reverse and three speeds), you just have to manually feed the tool using the pulleys. The lathe still turns its just the lead screw is disengaged.
Thanks! Bought this exact lathe after watching your videos. Your description of quality has been spot on. I almost sent it back, but the seller refunded enough that I kept it as a learning challenge. Getting better at scraping dovetails and now I’m working the gearbox. Thanks for the tip on the spacers, pretty sure I would have crashed the gears. It will be a long journey to making this thing run well, but so far it’s fun!
Thanks for the advice. My MX-600A arrived the other day and looked pretty good. Decided after watching your video to take the gearbox of and make the spacers as you described. Shaft looked like key was too large and they have used a cutting disk to reduce the size. What a mess. Made spacers and fitted, works fine. Awaiting new sieg x2 mill so will make a new shaft when that arrives. Thanks for sharing your good advice. 👍
Somebody tell me if this is a bad idea: Since the 5mm spacer is the important one, what's stopping me from making a snap-in-place HDPE spacer for it, just to prevent damage for the moment? There are lots of other things here that need my attention, and taking apart a gearbox is not exactly a quick fix. Since I'm not exactly new to the internet, I know that replies tend to advise one to 'do it the right way,' but realistically, how likely is it going to be that a dense plastic spacer would cause a problem?
You should drill and tap the end of that live center, and add a screw with a nut on it, to make it longer, that way, it will pop out when you unscrew the tailstock handle.
One thing you forgot to give is dimesion of the OD (outside diameter) of the spacers. Problem is if the OD is more than xxx it wont fit inside gearbox i.e. it will colide with gears paralel to this one.
Vevor MX-600A came 3 days ago. Almost no grease in the gearbox - one corroded gear- stucked 6001RS bearings - tailstock blocked without grease or oil - halfnut has inner corrosion - bent gear holder .....and so on. Needs complete disassemby, cleaning, removing paint where the paint is not needed, replacing bad hex bolts...... will write to seller and ask for partial refund.
@@tonycstech Besides all those issues the tool holder is made from aluminium and the 72 T gear is missing too. After 60 days of writing to customer service and Aliexpress dispute dept I got partial refund and now hunt for replacement and missing parts starts. Have you managed to sort out "Gear threading chart" ?
Update I got my gearbox installed. But I did not make and install the spacers yet. I did redrill the detent holes for handle positions. It works great so far.
I recently took my gearbox apart to take a look, and noticed the range of motion of the direction change gear you speak about in your video. However, the issue you warned about regarding binding up the gears when moving the change gear to the far right was a non issue if for me. This is because the lever arm, that the fork pivots on, contacts the divider wall before it allows the fork to slide the change gear any further to the right, into the danger condition you speak of in your video. As for the range of motion to the left, I see that as a feature. It is one of many neutral positions we can put the gearbox into. LOL
what did you expect for a cheap lathe they don't care about quality, try to get them to honor a warranty it would be easier to talk to Putin than the Chinese they don't care once they got your money, guys like you are great as you save people from headaches Im a machine tool fitter if I haft to fix it it would cost $2k
Hi i have the same one but the sticker on my forward and backwards the other way around i have not watched the gear box but it works fine another disappoindment is my compound is made from aluminum!!!
Have you been able to decode the “Gear Threading” chart to where the actual gears are placed on the arm? I bought the 8”x24” version and the chart does not match where the gears can actually fit in order to get the TPI desired.
Thank you for reminding me that i needed to do this. I did figure it out but have yet made any effort in posting a video covering this subject. Kinda busy with the mill belt drive upgrade still in progress.
Looking through the comments I am not surprised to see a number that refer to the utter lack of quality fitments in the machines. I have two 7x (SIEG) lathes and a SIEG-made SX2.7 mill so I know about the quality issues. And yet we continue to buy this scrap. The tested lathe is indeed feature-rich, but quality lacking. And there will be no inprovement (nor has there been in the past 20 years) as long as the poor quality is accepted. I suppose one might say, a cantankerous, poor quality lath is better than no lathe at all.
The QC on these things is all over the place.. Some of them are built relatively competently, others are practically a miracle that they run at all. I feel like the Vevor branded ones specifically are definitely on the lower end. There are a few on ebay that are sold simply by their original Chinese model number (MX-210, usually) I assume straight from the factory instead of one that has some weird brand name tied to it. On the other hand, they definitely beat the brakes off of the shitty Sieg 7x14 lathes, they just require the same amount of work to get going. Unfortunately at least here in the States, your options are very limited if you don't live in an area that is known for industrial tooling. A lot of the older 1940s era machines are getting increasingly expensive to repair and keep going, but most of us home-shop guys don't have the money to burn on a nice Taiwanese made machine.
I don't think quality changes from vendor to vendor. They are made at the same factory branded differently. I think the reason why you may think that way is other people either pointing it out or not. If I were to watch a guy who does not care much about the detailed issues, then I would assume machine is great. But them you got me, complaining about what no one seems to bring up. Mainly allignment.
Hi Tony, thanks to share the fix to your MX600A lathe. Do you have substitied the spindle bearings of your lathe? In this case, what is the model of bearing? Thanks a lot.
When buying a Chinese lathe simpler is better. I bought the MX-210V versions for under $700 after I got a partial refund from the seller to replace the aluminum cross slide and tool holder with cast iron compound and tool holder I found on ebay. I plan to do all my lathe thread cutting with taps and dies so my lead screw will be used for power feed only which I will set once to the lowest feed rate I can get.. Anyone who wants to cut threads with the lead screw should pay a lot more for a much higher end lathe with a proper quick change gear box.
Does it look like this ? drive.google.com/file/d/12alBmsn0O-KbeE_xkL5wiQ4WpT1_yGFP/view?usp=sharing Also, please explain what you did and why you think its dead. Check the fuse Maybe grab a multi meter and start poking around.
Hello Tony, I speak from Portugal! I've been watching your videos, I've been enjoying it, it's been a good help, because I have a Mx-600A. I was disappointed when I turned it on and tried to work with it... In relation to the main carriage it is very tight, to work freely I will have to loosen the screws too much which causes large gaps in the carriage. Is there any way to make a better adjustment? Grateful
@papalavacas Hi there I encountered the same problem on my MX600 after a lot of fiddling around I found the problem was the rack I slackened it off and the carriage moved very easily so I scraped and cleaned it up until it was perfect
Great video, thanks. Was wondering if you a pic of the forward reverse switch wiring? The black wire on mine has come loose and I have no idea where it goes.
My experience with Vevor has been a royal pain in my butt.... after reading a few reviews and the price, I ordered the 7 X 14" model, heard nothing for 2 days, no conformation nothing, sent an email to them asking what is going on ? They say " not in stock finding another warehouse for us ", I wonder, how you can you sell something you do not have.... that is considered fraud in some places..... so 3 days later it shows up, 5 days after ordered.... Open the crate, tailstock is sitting on the deck on it's side... the bolt holding the tailstock in place had broken at the weld during shipping and or packing etc.... so it had rattled around inside damage the top rail, the back splash and obviously, not usable with broken tailstock... They say, sending new tailstock, take 10 days or so.... I say, bed is damaged, pitted, you can clearly see in pictures, machine not usable with damaged bed, supposed to be perfectly flat and smooth for machining operation..... I sent them high definition photos from iphone, there is no way you can miss the damage on the top rail.... the broken tailstock lock bolt broke where it attached to the offset rod " bearing "... When removing packing bolts, only 3, one missing from one end and the other at that same end is loose.... we ask for refund, daily emails back and forth offering this and that, offering to replace machine... but why would I want another broken machine, if it broke during shipping, it will break during usage, maybe not right away but over time... I say, I want full refund come pick up your junk.... now it's been about 2 weeks since purchase, spent about $1000 in tooling, sitting here doing nothing.... spent another $650 on machine... sitting here I cannot use... lost about $1000 worth of work...... I build custom high power 2 wheel drive ebikes, for somethings I do, especially for mounting motors on suspension forks.... they just dont make the parts I need, so I decided to make them myself as well as doing work for other people making small model parts.... So all I've gotten for my $2000 some odd dollars, is a very expensive door stop.... Do your research, buy a Grizzly or better.... because that is what I am going to do... Vevor in Canada or the USA not worth your time or money.....in my opinion...
Hi Tony, thanks for the video on the first part of fitting spacers in the gearbox I was a success, in the video you said you would be adding an upgrade to make on the right hand selector speed control in a later video but I have been looking for it but cannot find it, is it there somewhere. Thanks for your help. Roy
Tony, have you found a place to order replacement belts for your lathe? I have the same one and I am having trouble finding someplace to get replacement drive belts! Thanks for the quick response and take care! John P.S. I may have found the belt numbers - 5M375 and 5M387 ??????
Warning: Display can kill you. Be careful when working with the speed display, or to be more specific with the cable. Today I found out another potential dangerously thing. Between the two wires of the display cable (red/black) there are around 5V but measured against the lathe /earth there are around 125V (yes, really. Seems to be around half mains voltage)
Same thing. Different name. Different price. Maybe little better quality control i would imagine but from the looks of it, same. If there are any issues, it will have them too.
Tony, have you ever removed the rear gear axle/shaft from the gear box? The level of defect on each of these machines is different. I have some of the same issues you have, and a few extra. I want to remove the rear axle to replace the bearings and fix what seems to be a misalignment in the rear gear shaft.
By misalignment you mean it does not stick out correct amount for gears to go on properly ? I use spacers. You have a lathe now, easy enough to make it lol.
@@tonycstech Sorry for not explaining properly. The gears are sliding on the front shaft as they should, but there seems to be a buckle in the rear shaft, it's visibly causing a jump in the lead screw and it is binding up in the gear box itself. I've taken the front axle out and it's an easy removal. There's a circlip on the rear shaft, and though I removed it the shaft isn't giving any. I just wondered if you'd removed this. On my gearbox there is zero thread in the gearbox housing for the two bottom bolts and the top one isn't much better. I can fix that no issue, but I am a bit puzzled on the second (rear) shaft of the dear box. have you any ideas on it? or have you removed it before. I'd replace the bearings if I can figure how to get them out.
@@BL-tr2ug I don't think I removed the rear shaft. Looking at it seems like it's the same as on the front. You have to hammer it out. Not sure which direction, gotta look at it.
