You should also look at the part number on the regulator. If it starts with an "S", throw it a far as you can. The "S" stands for shunt style regulator and is junk. Get a Mosfet style regulator (FHO20AA) and your problems will be over !! Also, make sure the new one has a stainless steel backing plate on it, that will mean it's a real Mosfet product. There are a lot of fake ones on Amazon and Ebay that are junk, so be careful what you buy.
Hey man - This is great! -I've had 5 (on my 5th one now) and THANKFULLY have never had a problem. -28 different bikes in my life and the 750 (3rd gen) is basically my 2-wheeled glove. ;) Planning on taking her cross-country (I'm also in the NW) to visit family and want to pick one up Just in case... Maybe a lithium battery -or something- that could take the short term beating if anything was to ever go funky. -I'm assuming a decent way to tell is to see if the tail lights are doing their little flickering thing with engine idle to hopefully rule out any OVER charging, (odd it doesn't mess with the headlights (just tried this. ;) Anyway, Great vid. Thanks for the easy and Super important info. Cheers mate! :) Safe travels.
The replacement RR does not cure the problem! The connectors and wiring need to be changed as they suffer also. The negative from the rr goes into the middle of the loom and cannot dump the extra loads it generates efficiently. New loom parts required.. look up vfrness, i made my own with further improvements and lines to battery,earths, charging wires. Also shortening the wires then moving the rr to the left side along with the 3 yellow lines that for some reason go thru the middle of the V of the engine to heat wires excessively.
Charles Eleanor Agree Completely! Made same harness and ground changes to my 97. Though I kept my RR in the OE location I used Standoffs to provide an air gap for cooling rather than and additional metal plate & frame as a heat sink.
Man, I got a great deal on a '95 VFR 750, picked it up.. only to find out the next day that my brand new battery is completely dead. I'm suspecting this is the issue and I'm ordering a replacement ASAP! So.. it's basically just this part? I read on some forums about messing with a stator as well, I wasn't really sure what they were talking about.. just sucks I have to deal with this on the first day of riding. Not going to trade it in though, the short time I had on this bike so far has been amazing :)
If the battery was only one day old then chech to see if it was being under or over charged. If overcharged (more than 15v) then yes it's probably warped the plates, but if undercharged with a lower than 13v from the alternator it might be possible to restore the battery with a very long low current charger. I did this on the battery from my VFR800 using a Ctek charger.
A far better solution, would be to replace the OEM reg/rec with a upgraded MOSFET unit such as the Shindingen SH020A which was an OEM unit on bikes such as the Yamaha MT09. It's much more reliable. Roadstercycles do a kit for the VFR800, not sure if they also have a kit for the 750.
on my vfr i replace the stator,rectifire,new battery,fuse ok at idle 13.5 volts at 5000 rpm voltage drope to 12.9 all the parts from honda any advise for me plis thanks great video
