Did that to a 1997 S-10 Blazer I owned once. Lived in Arizona, was hot as hell, when my pump up n died. 125+ F temps, was NO way I was removing my draw tite hitch assembly to drop the tank and replace the pump!I used dad's sawzall, checked location thru fenders, did my best guess, and cut out a flap....Easy peasy! changed the pump assembly buttoned it back up added 2 pieces of metal strips to support the "door" in the floor under the carpet etc.... Now retired, living in the Philippines, own a 1997 Suzuki 4 door 4x4 Vitara (sidekick model in US) I need to fix my fuel sending unit so plan to use my cut off wheel and make an access door in this too....Sure miss my 45 year collection of Snap On tools back home! Buy cheapo tools here as needed !! Too old to be crawling around under a car in the dirt lol
Nice video! That junction block idea is why I came here! (1979 Trans Am OEM metric 4 wheel discs to Wilwood.) The instruction appear to be for a console mounted hand brake, but zero info for a floor mounted parking brake pedal as I have. Thanks!
Back in 1971 or 72 my friend a girl came over with her sister who was driving a cool 1968 Chevelle 396 SS with two-cup carbs sticking out of the hood on a high angel. I was with my best friend so then there was four of us and we ran out of gas in about 25 miles out around Jackson MI and ended up in the back end of a pickup truck with a gas can and hitching back to where the Chevelle was stranded. There was four of us and my best friend was black, I never would have stated his race way back then. Anyway the vehicle was high-powered maybe 400hp however it needed a serious tuner to tweak it out, super cool just as in this pic and that was a long time ago.
I am not a mechanic but there is an issue with pressure. My truck has 1985 rebuilt 454 Big block engine and I passed smog check every time. When I started and drove about 300 feet it had no issues at all. I turned off the engine when I had to stop for about ten minutes then I turned it back on. I heard strange rattling noise but it did start and drove less hundred feet I saw red engine light. I could hear rattling again. I turned off the engine and tried to turn it on again. No start and red engine light on a dashboard. I opened the hood and saw that hose attached to the top came off and the engine spitted out some oil. I do not know if it was caused by PCV valve or any internal part of the engine. I will appreciate any suggestions if you have experienced some thing like this. I also do not know if Wagner valve is compatible with 1985 454 Big Block Chevy. Thank you.
I was considering buying the duel set for my 6-71 blown 55 but after watching this and seeing all the problems you have had, im out. Great video thanks.
What size of power steering pump pulley you have ? I got a sbc and I noticed my crankshaft pulley is a size 5.25 inches , ima switch to a 7 in pulley hope this works for my sbc
Amazing, if these heads had 2 hrs each porting and streched to 6500 the engine would of passed 600hp. Amazing torque for rec heads. For example my ls7 454 crate engine i had with everything factory with a team g single plane, a dominator carb maid 625 hp at 6700. Same engine did 675hp with a roller cam, same engine and cam did 721 hp with ported merlin oval port heads and 615 torque
This video is old now but, I just wanted to say that the howling is a direct result of changing upper and or lower control arms from rubber bushings to poly or spherical (which are incredibly louder than poly). I myself removed the original UCA’s and LCA’s on my Mustang (factory rubber bushings) and also removed the diff housing bushings (also rubber) and changed it all out with spherical parts from BMR. On the first test drive after the install of the aforementioned parts, at around 15 mph I thought I blew my diff. I had a loud harmonic howling coming from the rear of the car which resonated throughout the body of the interior. I was confused.. The 2nd thing I noticed was metal on metal clunking when turning.. After parking the car and jumping on several forums I learned something. And well, guess what? This is the exact nature of spherical bushings. Anytime you replace a rubber part in the drivetrain with a metal counterpart (or even poly) you introduce a tremendous amount of noise and resonance into the body of the car. Take it from me, there’s a give and take with every modification. However you have to find YOUR happy medium and that all is subjective to the individual. I wanted to launch and hook better (which I do with spherical bushings) but it came at the cost of a quiet ride with no howling. Happy modding.
Ya dude in my opinion the way you drive is the way the computer is learing. You need to run around in rpms... imagine that motor being on an airboat.. it's WOT to these same motors 90% off its life.. I've only watched two videos so maybe I'm being ignorant because havemt watched anymore.. I just know 0‐50 is pretty fun in those and police usually let it slide because u don't get stupid and race or some shit. Enjoy your whole gear.
Dude your putting around at 1200 rpm with a manual. Drive the fkn car... you have to be driving that thing like your on a streetbike. Rev that bitch out every gear a bit and have fun.. e erytime.. all your doing is choking that thing.. in my opinion.. you drive it like a baby, computer learns like a baby in my opinion. Don't worry mine won't even stay running.. I'll make a video here soon. Cpl videos on my page
My first car was a 68 Malibu (special order) L-79, 4-speed with a 4:11, roll tach, gauge pod. Blue with white interior, black vinyl… 16 years old and didn’t know what I had… went Mopar but appreciate all nice muscle. The 68’s will always be special.. what an incredible machine you have, holy crap is that beautiful !!!
Interesting. Landed here dealing with a darn brake shudder issue 3 months after a full brake job. Did see a brake pad imprint at that time. I think there is an issue with the Bosch ceramic brake pad material transferring way too much under very normal driving conditions.
