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Thanks to P.R. McIntosh for extant split skirt perusal.
prmcintosh.ca/
/ parker_mcintosh
Jumper: borrowed from @stanceymackenzie
Satchel: bearabeara.co.uk/product/flor...
Boots: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/JOBEARBOOTS
Hat: www.lockhatters.com/collectio...
@Leeam's video: • Skill Swapping With Be...
Materials:
Pattern: trulyvictorian.info/index.php...
Wool (approx. 3.5 yd): Beckenstein's, NYC
Horn buttons (x20): etsy.me/2ZTN5J9
Pocket fabric: bit.ly/3bZ19DD
Tarlatan: shop.takachpress.com/tarlatan...
1" cotton tape: East Coast Trimming, NYC
1/2" cotton tape for pocket suspension: East Coast Trimming, NYC
1/2" black cotton hem tape: William Gee bit.ly/3wigkAY
hook & eye for waistband
x2 sets hook & bars for fall front
Cotton thread
Silk buttonhole twist (for buttons & buttonholes)
NOTES:
[1] Winterhalter, Franz Xaver. “Portrait of Princess Victoria of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (1822-1857), Duchess of Nemours”, 1840. Palace of Versailles, accession no. MV 5116 ; INV 9996 ; LP 4478. Wikimedia Commons bit.ly/3q9v2ZW
[2] Pieneman, Jan Willem. “Bruidsportret van Agatha Petronella Hartsen”, 1841. Rijksmuseum Twenthe, accession no. BR0561. Wikimedia Commons bit.ly/3mGEUIB
[3] "Every Woman's Encyclopædia". London, ca 1910-12. bit.ly/3mOSdXD
[4] "Multiple Display Advertisements." The Designer and the Woman's Magazine, vol. IV, no. 3, 1896. Nineteenth Century Collections Online, on.nypl.org/3CGFueN. Accessed 5 Jan. 2021.
[5] "Ferris Athletic Waist." General Federation Bulletin, vol. V, no. 9, 1908. Nineteenth Century Collections Online, bit.ly/304r1vb. Accessed 2 Jan. 2021.
[6] "Secret Pants": Maksy, Rachel. "Sewing Some Autumn Clothes! (even tho it's still too HOT lol)", September 5, 2020. • Sewing Some Autumn Clo...
[7] Illustration from Puck, v. 37, no. 954, (1895 June 19), back cover. 1895, Keppler & Schwarzmann. Via bit.ly/2ZX2lEJ (and an interesting discussion generally on women’s cycling.)
[8] "The Bicycle Suit”, Punch, 1895. Wikimedia Commons bit.ly/3EOPinI
[9] The Illustrated London News. United Kingdom: Illustrated London News & Sketch Limited, 1851. Image via Wikimedia Commons bit.ly/3wctDmu
Amelia Bloomer, often credited with starting the bloomer trend (and giving the garment its now-familiar name) was simply the editor of the women's publication "The Lily" and who published favorably on the garment, encouraging the adoption of rational dress. Elizabeth Smith Miller is thought to be the first woman (who otherwise normally conformed to fashionable Western European dress of the time) to adopt the bifurcated outer-garment: "In the spring of 1851, while spending many hours at work in the garden, I became so thoroughly disgusted with the long skirt, that the dissatisfaction--the growth of years--suddenly ripened into the decision that this shackle should no longer be endured. The resolution was at once put into practice. Turkish trousers to the ankle with a skirt reaching some four inches below the knee, were substituted for the heavy, untidy and exasperating old garment." Smith Miller, "Smith Family Papers", 1851. The New York Public Library
[10] “Physical Effects of Cycling." Woman's Journal, July 25, 1896, 240. Nineteenth Century Collections Online (accessed November 3, 2021). on.nypl.org/3nZ8cBN
[11] “Miss Londonderry (Annie Cohen Kopchovsky)”, c. 1895. bit.ly/3bJoSr9
[12] Dadd, S.T. “Advertisement in The Graphic for Elliman's Universal Embrocation”, 1897. Wikimedia Commons bit.ly/3o0bIf1
[13] "Cycling Suit", 1896-98. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession no. 2009.300.532a-d. bit.ly/3GWkK5i
Further reading
Jungnickel, Kat. “Bikes and Bloomers: Victorian Women Inventors and Their Extraordinary Cycle Wear”. London: Goldsmiths Press, 27 April 2018. See also the feature video on sociologist Dr. Kat Jungnickel testing patents and exploring the practicalities of late Victorian cycling dress: bit.ly/3BIsMeh
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9 май 2024
