Good video- but you're supposed to flood the screen with ink before you do your first actual pull on the fabric. (Just lift the screen an inch or two above the fabric and pull the ink straight down to cover the screen- this ensures that all of the individual squares in the screen are full of ink.) Also, for anyone that wants to try this, make sure that you do another "pull" after you lift the screen, you want to keep that screen wet until you were ready to clean it. You can also lightly mist it with water in a squirt bottle.
This is awesome and you made it look so simple! It would be nice if you maybe listed your steps and tools in the description though. I am curious about what you used to fill the rest of empty space on the screen(the blue I see above and below vinyl stencil). Also how long do you wait before you heat set it? Wonderful tutorial though, didn't drag on, wonderfully paced, just lacking a few key things. Thanks!
I use clear packing tape. I also "pre" set the ink with my heat gun, usually a minute or two. once it's dry to the touch I remove it from the platen and immediately heat press it to set the ink.
It is good for very limited runs like 5-7 pcs. The ink will push the vinyl off the screen fabric and seeps into the edges in no time!! An alternate method suitable for longer runs is to use the stickers to block out printed parts and apply ink/fixer all over the mesh that way you avoid film and exposure process.
Good video just needed a couple of things like maybe which side and what kind of paper to put between press and shirt. And letting shirt dry (how long)may not be obvious to some
You make it look so easy...I just tried this today at school and it seemed like no matter how much ink, or how much pressure, or how many times I passed the ink over the screen the shirt always seemed like it was faded white instead of how you shirt looks bright white. Any ideas as to what I may be doing wrong? Using speedball white ink, and a 110 mesh tight screen.
Chris Pryor on dark shirts sometimes you have to apply a second coat. I would use a heat gun or hair blow dryer to dry in between coats. Thanks for watching hope this helps.
It really depends on the ink quality, how many coats you used and the coarseness/tightness of the mesh. 110 is more commonly used for paper while the most common coarseness for fabric is 43T. This allows for more ink to pass through the screen! Most shirts don’t need the finest screen, and the ink dries really quickly when the holes are that small
Otealua Jones depends on where you’re from. If you’re american, try amazon. If you’re located elsewhere, try to find a specialty store for screen printing supplies. If you’re struggling to find that, just google “silkscreen printing mesh” and make your own I guess 🤷🏼♀️
I promise I'm not trying to be ugly. I'm trying to be helpful. Tutorials without verbal instructions suck. The music is distracting, and we want you to TEACH us how to. If you would bring voice audio into your videos, I bet they would be magnificent! :D
Yeah but you unhooked it from the clamps which defeats the purpose. I guess because it wasn't lining up where you wanted it to. Could be a disaster doing it that way but in your case it worked out. Cute shirt.
I have been using this method for 10 years or more and I have printed hundreds of shirts using one screen. I have also used screens that are several years old. When you wash your screens (do not let them dry even a little bit) use Greased Lightning and a very soft toothbrush. I also apply my vinyl to the back of the screen. You will need to reverse your image.
@@kinggreen4638 The dehazer/degreaser is used to clean new screens of any oils that may repel your ink making a spotty print. Because it contains a pumace it will also clean any dried ink from your screen after the run is done and is hard on the vinyl if you want to keep your screen intact. I don't worry about keeping my screen "open" because I never let ink dry on the screen. If you have to step away from a project, spray the screen with water. Over the years (did my first screen printing 50 yrs ago) I have tried to streamline the process and keep the costs down and the one product, Greased Lightning, has kept my screens clean. The ink will dye the screen leaving an image but will not affect the use. BTW, I am not a professional, only a hobbyist, but have printed 100s of t-shirts mostly for nonprofits and when I say I have screens several years old, I mean with the vinyl still intact and usable. I use Oracal 651 vinyl.
This is great! I tried it but had the worst time getting the transfer tape off the vinyl after putting it on the screen. I ruined the design, ugh! I used a medium tack tape and then tried it with $$ Store clear contact paper which is less tacky. Same result. Any tips? Thank you!
Make sure you're using the permanent vinyl like Oracle 651. If you use that 631, or any kind of removable vinyl like for wall stencils it won't do good on a screen.
