In this video I am finishing off the top end of the engine all bar adjusting the valves, which i will do with the final install of all of the ancillaries.
Thanks mate gave me confidence to rebuild mine tomorrow...it was down on compression on the front cylinder the piston and rings are fine and well with in tolerance we have reseated valves hopefully it sorts it
It’s a good indicator if you let the valve drop into its seat with the head upside down and you get a clunk, and then lap it in, and you get a metallic clink, it’s a fair bet it needed a lap and there was just some crap to remove on the seat or the valve itself.hopefully it sorts your issue mate.
Hey this video is great help just like all the others, I have "finished" my motorcycle and have been using it for about 2 months, I have been noticing that from the front exhaust port there has been smoke coming out, after further inspection I noticed an oil leak, drips on to the exhaust pipe and you can smell the oil burning as I have the fiber wraps on my pipes as well. my question is what could be the cause of a oil leak from the front exhaust pipe. the leak is not a lot, but I am wondering if I need to redo the whole top end of the engine, thank you for your help.
Either the head gasket not seated properly if the leak is lower down onto the pipes or possibly the rocker cover. I did notice on mine oil came up through the single bolt that holds the barrel down as the o rings were damaged. Best thing clean it up, get it running, and get an inspection light on it.
Hi. Quick tip. The rear 535 cylinder is according to Yamaha no 1. Confusing and why on two 535's I have worked on they have had the needles in wrong carb.
Ah ok thanks, I did think the front was No 1. it’s odd that my heads show the marking 2GV which is the US model, and this is a U.K. bike being 2YL. So I assumed parts had been messed around with at some point. I set my bike up as a single 2 into 1 carb, with a hitachi carb off a bigger XV, so not in possession of the old Mikunis now. Thanks for the info, appreciate it.
Thank you ,,,you explained it all as i understand it,,,,,,my problem is i have got a 535 which will not select 4th and 5th gears ? so will strip it down and try and find the problem,,,,,kind regards C W,,
Bent selector fork or worn dogs I guess, should be able to pick up used parts to get it going. That’s what I hate about V engines and their side case arrangement, its a total strip down to inspect anything, it’s so much easier to drop a sump cover off a straight engine, and have a look up inside.
Hi there i found the problem and think i sorted it ??? BUT can you PLEASE show me or tell me in terms i can understand how to set the Cam timing ,i.e what position the crank should be in etc etc,,,,,sorry for asking this but i just can,t get it right,,,,,,,,,Kind regards,,,,,,,,,Colin
@@colinwood1802 so do the rear cylinder first, turn the crank so that the line next to the ‘T’ mark is lined up in your timing window, the turn the cam shaft on the rear so that the dowel on the end lines up with the pointer on the case, and then assemble the sprocket and chain. Move to the front cylinder, and the turn the crank so that the single line, lines up with the mark in the timing window and repeat the same steps as the rear cylinder to assemble the cam chain and sprocket. Be careful not to over shoot the line on the front and make another rotation otherwise it will work but will run poorly.
@@memybikeni9931 if you do overshoot the line on the front and make another rotation what do you do so it doesn't run poorly? Do you have to restart at rear?
I just re built my front top end the orange o ring that you said was pointless then you found it went in the other part mine never had it and i didn't fit it when i done it do you think I will have issues
Hey Rich, i have a question concerning my 535. She was running perfectly fine with power and now problems whatsoever until she started spitting oil from the exhaust, lost power and started running like shite. The sparkplugs are obviously full of oil and I'm removing the engine from the bike at the moment. What should I be looking for, valve seats or piston rings? I'm not planning to redo the whole engine since she was running perfectly fine before but also don't want to forget anything important before putting it back on the bike. Thank you in advance!
If you haven’t actually removed the engine yet, before doing anything else, do a compression test, so you can see which block is the issue, which will save a lot of initial disassembly. A basic leak down test to see where power is being lost. If compression is going out into the crank case, then likely broken or worn rings. Valve seats won’t be an issue, issues with them will just lose compression, not cause oil to get in anywhere, if you mean valve stem seals, that generally only produces a little blue smoke on start up, it wouldn’t cause oil loss though the exhaust. That is likely getting into the cylinders through the head gasket, broken or worn rings or a crack somewhere in the block. So do a compression test, identify where the issue is, take the head off, inspect the head gasket, which is a 3 ply metal gasket, and at the point if all is ok, then you will need to go lower into the engine. With then engine out, and heads off, put each cylinder into bottom dead centre, and pour petrol in, see how quickly it disappears into the crank case. If one is rapid and one is slow, it’s rings. It could just be the head gasket, or maybe a hole in the piston crown possibly, but you can check that with a quick look down the plug hole. Let me know how you get on.
Thank you for your quick reply! I'll get a compression test set first and go from there. Since there is oil on both spark plugs I have a strong feeling I'll be working on both heads. I'll keep some updates on the progress and your videos will provide most of the information needed. I'm really thankful for the information you provide!
@@dylantendoornkaat6155 probably just worn rings. Question though, if you haven’t compression tested it yet, what makes you think power is down ? Sluggish ? That could be air/fuel, carbs needing a service. Worn rings on both sides not a major drama if your using the bike regularly, it’ll burn off more than it leaves sitting in the cylinder.
Well, when I started her up cold she was spitting oil and I lost power whilst it was riding perfect before so I think it's the valve stem seals on both cylinders. Since both spark plugs were full of oil I just decided to take the engine apart and check both the seals and rings. Now I didn't find any problems on the pistons, tested with some gasoline and it all stays on top without bubbling. Waiting for the tool to remove the valves and the gasket set meanwhile I'll be cleaning all the old gaskets off(what a hell of a job) and then we're back on track! Your videos are really helpful!🤘🏻
@@dylantendoornkaat6155 could be stem seals, just a bit severe to be spitting oil. What happens in first start up, as oil runs down the stems, it gets burnt off on start up, but then disappears. If oil burning continues, it isn’t usually seals. Maybe check the head for runout, may be warped.
how do I get timing dead on? I read in one of my books, if you have to turn the crankshaft needs to be rotated for alignment while cam sprockets are removed don't let the chains fall in or kink. Do you adjust the timing marks with the crankshaft or just by putting at tdc taking out the tensioner, the cam sprocket bolt and and taking off the sprocket, turning the sprocket aligning the marks like that, then tighten both and put tensioner in. Is this right? Thanks 👍 no
Does it matter if you tighten the cam sprocket bolt first then put tensioner in and you do put a little tension on with finger to make sure dot is aligned with mark right?
@@firebird14420 Hi, So once the engine is all assembled, work on the rear cylinder timing first. In this order, align the line by the ‘T’ mark on the timing cover mark, and then with the cam sprocket removed so you can see what you’re doing, align the dowel on the end of the cam shaft with the mark on the case. Then slip the sprocket on the end of the Camshaft. At 40:05 what I did was turn the sprocket slightly to the right to allow for the tensioner to pull it back into alignment, but it doesn’t really make a difference, due to chain stretch/elongation, you’re most likely to get it to the equivalent of half a tooth out anyway. If it looks near on when it’s assembled it’s ok. You will likely be half a tooth out and if you were 1 and a half teeth out you’d definitely know it. You can see in this example at 41:20 it all pulled into alignment. Not too tricky. The cam sprocket bolt is not relevant for this procedure as the sprocket does not turn on the shaft at all as its prevented from rotating by the dowel, the bolt just stops the sprocket coming off the end, so whether it is fitted, tightened, not fitted at all, doesn’t matter. Try not to let the chain fall in, but you can quite easily hook it back out with a pick or a magnet, or tie it up with wire, but that can get in the way a bit.
@@memybikeni9931 if you do overshoot the line on the front and make another rotation what do you do so it doesn't run poorly? Do you have to restart at rear?
@@memybikeni9931 and btw engine is together in frame, noticed front cylinder was 3 tooth off. So when I do this do I have to loosen the valves up? I know I should definitely readjust, but I'm going to go through both cylinders. Do I need to take the tensioner off the front when starting with rear cylinder? Or just leave it and when Im done with rear just go to front and take tensioner out, sprocket bolt and adjust? Sorry so many questions mate!!
Hi my frind wath can I say you no your stuff brilliant vidio just a question for you thanks wath is the clearance for the front cylinder ar the the same the 2 tappets and is the mark withe line on the crank the same for the two valves on front the back ar grand thanks love your vidios keep up the grate work
It 0.1mm intake, 0.15mm exhaust, the line with the T is the rear cylinder TDC, the other line is the front cylinder, time the rear first, hope that makes sense.
@@memybikeni9931 thank you I will do that is the mark with the line for both valves on front il let the back cylinder alone onely the front one is doing its job thanks for the help mem.
@@joepunk3020 yes so when you put any cylinder in TDC compression, what this means is both/all valves are closed , therefore you can be sure that the cams/rockers are not pressing down on them, therefore there is clearance between them which you can then set. TDC compression can also be tested to be sure you’re not 360° out by wiggling the rockers to see if they are loose or tight. So yes, TDC compression, you can adjust both intake and exhaust at the same time.
No I didn’t get skimmed, if you have a clear issue with it then yes get it skimmed, but I’m not sure on small blocks that it’s an issue, and it’s an air cooled engine, so less reason to overheat, while that’s sounds counter intuitive, it’s a front cylinder, gets more air flow, and can’t suffer from intermittent issues like water pump failures. but the head had no issues, I had to strip it to fix the bottom end. Just a clean and re assemble of the top.
@@memybikeni9931 Long story short, exhaust bolt snapped off and upon trying to extract it, knackered the head. Have a spare knocking around so fit it with the old gasket (took the chance) but shortly failed (as expected) now I need to do the job properly.
