Another great video; I'll be copying you very soon, as I just ordered my V2 yesterday! Thanks for saving me loads of trouble! One question...are you finding the stock CG to be good? Your friend on youtube, Rudi Ramaekers, suggested it might need to be moved back a bit. What have you found? Please say it's stock, because I really like the idea of the stock CG detent in the underside of the wing.
I'd probably take the wheel out too. Flying of grass and I like the sleeker look. Is the protruding bit left around the wheel well part of the moulded fuselage or is it glued on? Wondering if it can be removed for a smooth finish or it needs sanding flush? Thanks for the vid.
Andrew, I know you said you're running a Trannis, so hope you can help... I'm running Spektrum DX18. Do you know if I can install telemetry to facilitate varimeter feature for thermaling?
I actually have an ASW28, been in it's box since I purchased a year ago from HK. You've inspired me to get off my butt and make it happen. Awesome work on these videos Andrew!! Loved. Both Thomas and I watched the whole series on this beast :D
The model has been sold for years with the same two design flaws, but they are very easy to correct. 1. Glue 30 g of lead on the end of the fuselage and the vertical stabilizer, which is very easy in the hull without being seen from the outside. 2. The EWD is improper and needs to be raised to place the stabilizer on the back edge with 0.8 to 1 mm thick paper. 3. With a 3S 1500 mAh battery or with 2 3S 1500 mAh batteries connected in parallel, it is now possible to fly without changing the center of gravity. The second battery is simply pushed exactly between the wings, focusing on the upper board, which guarantees a minimum flight time of 25 minutes and almost always with a low thermal of at least 35 minutes - do not worry, the battery will not slip during the flight! After the correction you will get a superbly flying model that can compete with much more expensive models as it is usually lighter. The model is also suitable for easy aerobatics and although the surfaces sag unbelievably, I have not yet managed to destroy it in the air. I'm thinking about making the wings shiny, but this is definitely not necessary and colorful so I can see the model better.
Sorry, that's an abbreviation in German: EWD = Einstell-. Winkel-Differenz that means translated EWD = setting angle difference. So nothing but the difference in angle between the elevator and the wing. In which the angular difference to the "imaginary" midline of the trunk is normally balanced, this is zero. Depending on the aircraft type and wing profile, the wing is usually attached to the hull at a small, increasing angle. This angle of attack has a significant influence on the flight characteristics of the aircraft. If you find out afterwards that a correction of this angular difference is necessary, this is usually much easier on the elevator than on the wing.
Ok got another question. Did you Place the paper between horizontal and vertical stab or between vertical and fuselage mount? I m a but concerned about flex. The Tail is already Pretty shaky in high Winds.
I did not quite understand what they meant. Unfortunately I can not insert a picture here, so I try to describe it. I slightly increased the angle difference and put all oars back to neutral. If you align the fuselage so that the fuselage tip faces you, you will see two mounting holes in the fin for mounting the elevator. Since I have increased the angle, the stroke at the end of the last screw must be increased by 0.8 - 1.0 mm. This leads to a slight gap in the support area. However, this does not affect the flight stability. Please do not overtighten the screws! Note: Any change on an aircraft affects other settings, as they partially work against each other. In addition, the mutual influences do not necessarily change linearly, so the "best" setting is usually adjusted to the average airspeed. In the end, it is a compromise, and the difference between the wing angle and the elevator, for example, has a decisive influence on the knife flight. However, since it is a dynamic process, it makes sense to control it dynamically via additional mixers, since it can not be solved purely statically, by a fixed mechanical adjustment. But explaining that leads too far. For starters, you can trust me - although I have 49 years of flying experience, I know that this does not matter if the basics are incomplete, as with many recreational pilots. For this reason, I recommend you to learn some dry theory. It will help you a lot! The PDF file for download at the following link is unfortunately in German. But you can translate that conditionally with Google. Basic knowledge of the preparation of the first flight can be found on page 1 to page 15 and from page 16 to page 26 it is explained very concretely how to perfectly trim a model airplane. You should remember to use it at any time! These basics are general and not just for F3A models if you use common sense. Teil 1 - Servo-Grundeinstellung www.rcmarket.net>tips>du-fliegst-wie-du-einstellst-pdf>download www.rc-network.de/forum/content.php/503-Du-fliegst-wie-Du-einstellst-Teil-4 A final note on the ASW 28: The model needs a slightly higher airspeed, even when landing to be able to fly effectively. This is due to the narrow wings. Due to the moderate increase in the angle of attack as a function of the center of gravity, it is now also possible to fly a little slower.
I would appreciate very much if possible to experience the flap setting values of your ASW 28. Unfortunately the manual of the ASW 28 doesn"t give any advices about that.Are the indicated CG marks under the wing a suitable cg ? Nice regards , V-1
@@AndrewNewton Anyway, thanks a lot for your reply! So at the Landing configuration you have used his max possible deflection.Which deflection do you have used for the "take-off" configuration? A Phoenix with the wings of the ASW sounds like an very interesting combination :-) Nice regards and stay safe :-)
Good morning Andrew, amazing videos, I have a problem with my ASW28. The engine tends to warm up after a few minutes of flight and begins to brake, reaches the point where it stops completely. Change the factory 30amp ESC to a 50amp ESC. This helped a bit, but the problem persists and the engine slows down a bit, at all, but it stops. Has this happened to you? I have it with the 10x6 factory propeller
That didn't happen with mine. Is something rubbing on the motor? Maybe a solder connection is breaking down when heated up. Maybe the battery is failing.
Hi Andrew, thank you for the useful videos on the channel!!! Considering this plane for FPV, have you tried it for this purpose? Any recommendations? I have MiniTalon, 3m Flyfly Fox and other foamies and quads. But interested in ASW28 as FPV soarer. Thanks.
I haven't used it for FPV but my freind Allen Moore has - Noobie RC - ru-vid.com/show-UCxp23yC005hanSysA4vodQA I would suggest the Phoenix Evolution or 3ch Radian because the are much easier to fly than the ASW28.
I hope I am not sticking my nose in. I use my ASW for FPV . I mounted a 360 cam just behind the cockpit by simply drilling a hole and fitting a tripod screw . The 360 cam works really well and using different software you can turn the 360 video in normal flat video and take care of pan and tilt in post. Here is a couple of Videos thrown up kinda quick . one is 360 the other is flat after post Best wishes FDO ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RX3Cl_lO7AU.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zfkkQm4FwoU.html
Hi i now have ASW 28 and have been interested in your mods, the thing that is causing me problems is obtaining the 4 pin plugs have you any info on that?
hi i have now made up the harness thanks for that and as i explained this is my first plane with flaps using a three position switch and now having tested them i am right in assuming that the positions give me, 1 take off flaps, position 2 flight path position and 3 air brakes my first flights will be witha insructor, and i am looking forward too that. kind regards Jim
I have found you really don't need flaps for takeoff with these gliders. Only for adding a few mm of camber in a thermal or airbrakes when landing. Good luck Jim, hope it all goes well
Dont use hot glue for the hinges!!! It will make the controls very stiff. Use SUPER GLUE FIX-ALL ADHESIVE and maybe two or three strips of clear duct tape one each and one in the middle. Remember to break in the surfaces by hand after reinforcing the controls.
Hi ANdrew and thanks for all your videos... by one of these, i bought first a Phoenix 2000 then a Raptor always after your test and now i probably will buy the ASW28 but i seen in this video, you have talken about a VARIO, please let me know something more... which kind, what kind of mode programmed into the Taranis and a link if you can, because i have the same your radio TARANIS PLUS...!!! Great Radio...!!! Thanks in advance... Ezio
@@AndrewNewton I liked your lower wing surface painting idea, but used brush-on acrylic for mine because I read somewhere that enamel would dissolve or deform styrofoam. You had no problems with that?
How do you rate this ASW28 to similar foamy semi-scale egliders in the market? Top RC ASW-28 (clone of Tower Hobbies), Multiplex Solius/Heron/Lentus, Kavan 304TS TwinShark?
This is the only one I have experience with, but I suspect all the others would be better thermal gliders. The Volantex is a great sloper and general powered plane but not great at slow gliding.
Hi Andrew, thanks for the great videos you have posted regarding this aircraft, I couldn't resist so purchased one and it is now ready for it's maiden. This is the first sailplane I have in my fleet so could you give me an idea of the crow, camber and reflex settings you have including elevator if any. I know this can be down to personal preferences but a starting point would be helpful. Cheers Gary.
Very exciting Gary. I don't have this one anymore, just have to wing on a Phoenix fuselage as a pure sloper. From memory I had the flaps going down as far as possible, maybe 40 degrees, and ailerons about 15mm up and down. Camber was all surfaces going down about 2mm. Elevator up and down maybe 30 degrees. Mighty be worth contacting my buddy Allen Moore (noobie RC on RU-vid) he is the ASW 28 master
Good mods Andrew, I like the flap to crow mix! I wish my v1 had that wing joiner method. I might need to take a closer look at yours next time I see you to see if I can MacGyver it on to mine. Might head down the beach on Sunday with Mark for a fly off the dune it your free?
Don't know if that mix will work yet, mainly for controlled slope landing. If Sunday's weather is right I'll see you there. Heat bent pvc will work for a wing clip I reckon.
Hi Andrew, this is a really great video for me as I've recently got this glider and would like to do the single plug wing wiring connections as well. If you have the time would you please 'show' me how you did it, in a diagram, from the ESC to both servos as I'm hoping that it will show how the wires were joined together and why you only need 4 wires instead of 6. Your videos are most helpful to us newbies to gliding. With help from a gliding friend I've managed to do 'CROW and Camber' setup with a DX8 gen 1 and an AR7000 Rx. XCLNT Vid and thanks in advance knowing you did this mod some years ago....John H...
Here is the wiring digram for the wing servos. Both servos can share the 5V connection (red) and ground (black) so that reduces 6 down to 4 wires. www.flickr.com/photos/pandasimages/31984385060/in/dateposted-public/
Hi Andrew great vid , I have done the mod to the wing connections same as you cheers for that will help greatly . I have also decided to go to 4s power and changed the prop to a 12x6 . Did a load test and it pulled 24A full wack on the stock motor and 30A esc , hope it will last . Not a WOT all the time with this model so should be OK . Keep up the good work . Graham
Hi Andrew, I`m stuck between the this model and the V2 Phoenix 2mtr or 2.4 for beach sloping, what`s your thought on tip stall and which version would be best suited to sloping.Cheers
Phoenix 2m is the best thermaller and sloper of the three, but they all work well for powered flight and on the slope. When thermalling the 2.4 is the most prone to tip stall and the ASW28 is not a slow floater
hi i have now obtained the leads for your conversion to the servo connection. would you please run through the conversion in more detail ?were the joints crimped and if so can you give details? i have made a mock up of the system but i burnt out two servos doing it, as i am in my 84 year i am not as quick on the updates as i used too be
Hi Andrew, I was using Multiplex connectors on my Radian Pro and on my new E-Flite Mystique. 3s balance plugs are a much smarter option, smaller and lighter. Excellent idea, well done. Keith
Do folks use these planes and fly FPV ? It looks like you have plenty a room upfront for a Camera . I'm thinking a glider would make for a nice FPV platform
In the Telemetry setup screen, under Variometer I have Source - VSpd, Range - -10 to 10, Centre -0.5 to 0.5 Silent (Can select Tone or Silent) I'll do a full Vario setup video today because all your SA rain has arrived here.
@@AndrewNewton Thanks Mr. Newton. I am using Spektrum DX8e with Y leads. In this situation I will have to select 1+1 I got it, thank you very much for your reply. But unfortunately the aileron servos are reverse in my model :( I am using spektrum receiver with safe but safe function will not function if I reverse the ailerons :( Too many hassles.
@@AndrewNewton I don't get it. For flap/aileron crow settings I thought you couldn't use a Y-connection for the ailerons - I thought they had to be on separate channels.
You do know that nose heavy is the easy fix, it only takes a small amount of weight on the rudder to make a BIG difference to the CG, the tail is a lot farther from the CG than the nose. These foam planes seem a little lite to me so adding a small amount of weight make them penetrate and handle better to me but if you are trying to loose some weight that would be the better idea.
hi first flight brought up problems the wing servoes were only held in by bandage tape no adhesive on any them, lucky for me the instructor brought it with no damage so thats somthing i will check on future models
On my Bixler 2 and 3 I tape the flaps and ailerons together so they just need one servo and act as full span ailerons. On the ASW28 there are separate signal wires for the flaps and ailerons, so it's actually two servo cables going through one plug
Hi Andrew - I probably would have bought on of these already however something else shiny has distracted me. this turned up in DIY drones - www.skyhookrc.com/skyhook-discovery It is a little more expensive however it is pretty cheap for a foam and glass 2.5m glider.
Hi Andrew, I have also the ASW-28, the old model, and the FrSky Tareanis. Could you send me your Taranis configuration (eepe file) for this model? Thanks in advance.
Hi Andrew, I too have this ASW28 like your setup, must get around to doing connector mod (have done similar on another glider) Would you be kind enough to let me have the Taranis setup info. I'm new to the Taranis so struggling a bit, I've been used to Spektrum.
