Volantex Phoenix 2400 RC glider unbox and assembly 

Some advice gleaned from various reviews. Take hem as you will Required: 3S 11.1V 2200~3300mAh LiPo Battery 6 Channel Transmitter and Receiver Buy a spare prop and wing clips Beef up the firewall with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Change the servos to stronger metal gear ones Replace all pushrods Insert a small section of hollow carbon fiber rod at the point of attachment of the control horn on the rudder. The plastic clevises on Two of the control rods could slip over the threaded ends making them unusable. Replace on ALL control surfaces with a screw type nipple clevises. Change the 4023/1050KV motor to a 25 Gram heavier 3542/800 kV Motor with an alloy turbo spinner. Using an 13/8 Aeronaut folding prop in combination with 2200-3000 3S batteries. That gives me 32Amps peak current and a good climbing rate with less power consumption. In 15 seconds I am over 100 meters. With a 12x6 folding prop you have beetween 32-35A on full trottle with a 3S 2200mAh Lipo. The original Volantex 40 ESC upgrade works OK with it when you mount it right behind the air cooling hole on one side in front of the fuselage. Mix a little rudder with the ailerons and a tiny bit of down elevator with the flaps. When fitting the wings fit one side with the tubular joiners half through, connect the 4 servo leads and push these inside the fuselage. Then slide the other wing half on the joiner tubes and repeat before pushing the wing halves together onto the neat plastic catches. I suggest the servo leads in the wing and fuselage are colour coded to make for glitch free joining. With a 'Gliders G-Power' 3S 3300mah LiPo, the model balanced correctly (for my liking) and gained height rapidly under power. With the power off, it's definitely not a 'floater', covering the ground quite rapidly and needing to be actively flown rather than being left to just 'drift around'. It does also tend to 'keep going' on the landing approach, so my next job will be to to swap out the aileron 'Y' leads and use an extra channel, thus allowing 'crow braking' to be programmed in. beefy aluminum spars are heavy, causing fast landings. Split the aileron wires, and program some Crow/Butterfly to slow it down I use a 5Ah 3s 20c and with some power off careful gliding can regularly achieve 40mins from flat field. Or 20mins powered with moderate throttle use. . I changed my ASW28 with about 1.5mm of packing pieces under the trailing edge of the tailplane ( horiz stab) and it made it a much better floater, really, much better. Though a mod like that will be more complex to achieve on the Phoenix. Happy wings!

Thnx i get one tomorrow

Great vid. Tnx a lot.

Hello! I have a question. Phoenix 2400 does have a special serial number? Thanks for the answer. Best regards: Béla

Good video. Many thanks. Any thoughts on the stock servos - I am quite concerned about their quality - or suitability. Much appreciated. Mark

4s is the way to go, just change the ESC to 50amp

I am wondering about the Y adapters for the servo.. there's 2 of them which look identical to me, shouldn't one of them for the ailerons be inverted? Could you please check how did you wire it up? one is labeled H2 and the other one is H5. is the basic channel configuration TAER? it's a pity they didn't include this in the manual, it would definitely speed things up :D thanks for any help

will the two big rods stay within the fuselage or within one of the wings? i have troubles to put in the long big rod into both wings, as the squared metal profile in the wing is slightly squeezed

Ciao, puoi dirmi se' il motore Volantex 1050kv può andare a 4s? Grazie

Not good video for begginer. Not help me to build my Phoenix. You miss on video a lot of important details.