Hey gear heads! It's been a while but check out this fun video we made on how to perform your own oil change. We provide some tips that help our vw's stay on the road, what tips do you have for us?
I'm so glad I saw this. I've been unable to remove the sump drain nut in the centre. It won't budge. So now I will just remove the filter housing and drain it the way you have. Thanks so much.😉👌
Great video very informative. I learned a few great tips. Especially the part about disconnecting the main lead from the coil off the distributor to create oil pressure. Good stuff 👍🏼
10-40 so 20-50 better for 73 beetle not to thick is it,hot here in lancaster,Lancaster, let me know thought I'd try synthetic for a while but I'm just asking what's best
Keep car level and drain with center bolt. Then lift the car. 2.6 qts only. Full is halfway between the marks. 30 wt. High zinc for 33-100 degrees F. As per VW spec. To thick of an oil will engage the oil cooler bypass.
3 qts will not hurt anything so by saying "2.6 qts only" you make it sound imperative to only use 2.6 qts and that's not true one bit and if it were true all the VW's I've done oil changes to (including all 7 of mine) would be damaged or what ever you think happens to one if I put over 2.6 qts of oil in them 😱
Owners manual spec. You should secure one. 2.6 puts the oil level at a point where the strainer can skim the surface. The manual clearly states, "do not put the whole 3 qts. in. Use the remaining oil for the air cleaner."
I don’t see the bad in it. All your doing is preventing spark from happening while your cranking the motor over and getting the new oil trough out the engine.
I have a VW 1600 Boxer engine. Its a 2013 one that was built in Mexico. I am about 3800 Miles ( Yep, 3 thousand and 800 miles so its a baby ) and I gave it an oil change at 500 and again at 1000 miles from new and as its not been used all that much and its only done 2800 miles on the oil thats in it, but thats about 5 years old and so I am changing the oil and I think its just as well... The oil was jet black and not at all lubricating the engine and if anything, it felt like it was sticky more than slippery... Eek. Anyway, I have dropped the oil, but can I get that round bit off? Not even budging at all? I have got all of the oil out and I also removed the center bolt and thats got a magent on it ,and it was caked in a solid dirty gum and now this has almost terrified me and I wonder what sort of dammage has been done to the engine? Is this normal? No clearly not, but are these Mexican engines any cop? Mine is pissing oil and has done since I first bought it and if I drive below 40-45 MPH its ok, but if I try driving at 50 then it leaks oil... The shitty thing is, that I have not yet found out where the oil is coming from... I am assuming from the crank and there is that nut thats been re-designed to push the oil back into thej engine, rather than needing the seal, and the wheel spins and so that seems to spray the oil all over the engine, but as for any point... Nothing? This is by far, the worst engine that I have EVER bought, and I massively regret it. What is worse, is that I sold my harley Trike to pay for this one and now I am wondering why the hell I ever bothered. Oh, and the gear lever is the most awful one I have EVEr tried and failed to get right. I can select 3rd and 4th fairly easily, but 1st is impossible and its a gamble whether I get 2nd or reverse!
My first car was a 1961 bug. I changed the oil every 1000 miles. Partly because there is no oil filter and synthetic oil didn't exist back then. Today I would likely use 0W-30 synthetic oil and maybe change it every 2500 miles. I forget how often I adjusted the valves but I would guess at every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. If you have an engine that was rebuilt, one thing that will make it burn oil is if any of the oil rings on the piston gave the gap at the lower part of the cylinder rather than the top of the cylinder. That happened to me and I had to drop the engine and reposition the oil rings. Then everything was fine.
I have a question. I would like to install an Oil Pressure Sender / Switch onto my 1969 Beetle. I'm unable to determine where it is to be installed. Can you help me?
Remove the idiot light sender its behind the Distributor there should be a blue wire attached to it unless someone changed the wire take that sender to your hardware store and look for a brass Tee that fits the threads I just did mine but forgot the pipe size lol you will need a starlight threaded same size pipe a brass nipple about 1in or 1_1/2" long. Thread the Nipple into the tee Then thread the VW sending unit into the other end of the Tee Now this is important Install the nipple with everything together except the Gauge sending unit do not install it yet DO NOT OVER TIGHT IT WHEN YOU REINSTALL IT TO THE BLOCK YOU WILL CRACK THE BLOCK after every thing is installed then take a small pipe wench and hold that nipple dont let it turn you dont want to over tightening it Now turn your tee where the Gauge sender will be easy to install Mine is facing out next to the distributor have seen some facing up what ever best for you I also Used very little Black Aviation sealer on the threads it don't take much know this is long but i wanted to make sure you dont crack your block where the old sender was have a great day hope this helps Wow I just notice your question was 3 years ago well maybe it will help some one else lol
Nivek if there isn’t a local Vw shop near you. Any online aircooled Vw store will have them. Sometimes you can also find them at large auto parts stores.
