After watching, about 5-7 videos from others, and doing a timing set on my 2011 JSW, YT recommends this to me 2 days later... Thaaaaaanks. Good vid, a bit too late lol.
Super solid video. The crank bolts mentioned at 54 minutes, I can not see where the link was? I do not know what kind of bolts I will need on hand to replace that are 1 time use. Can anyone advise? Please and thanks in advance
Great video Michael.. followed it to a T and did my TB and all components on my CJAA TDI in my ‘13 Jetta sportwagen.. I did cam seal as well but everything else in this video is great detail and production.. best tutorial videos out there??
Shoul I be able to start and run before I put timing cover back on. To check and make sure is right.... I did turn over. It didn't start. I resigned everything back up and put locks back in. They all match. Wanted to figure out why it won't start before I re assemble it. Ty😊
Awesome video, I came here because I'm thinking about getting a tdi 2.0. Never had one, but this procedure is just like my j35motor v6 honda. Thank you.
I just finished doing my timing on my 2014 Jetta TDI Sportwagen. I had the hardest time getting the new belt on (INF) with both small rollers off and the tensioner fully turned counter clockwise. Do some companies have different tolerances regarding their belts ? Honestly, the job in itself wasn't bad until it came to reinstalling the new belt.
Great video! Only question I have is what is the point of the 5mm Allen that you had in the tensioner? I know you said it was to lock it down for clearance but I but I don’t understand why you needed to have it in if you snugged the tensioner nut down. I’d appreciate any feedback I just don’t want to mess anything up. Thanks !
@@thumper2692If you rotate the tensioner without the 5mm the belt gets tighter, if you rotate it with a 5mm in the slot the belt gets looser. The 5mm acts as a pin to attach internal components to exterior components. You are correct in suggesting that when the nut is snugged down the pin doesn't need to be there, but if you loosen the nut without holding both Allen keys in place the mechanism can violently slap back into its start position, since that's probably not good for the mechanism the pin stays in while you're putting the belt on. I just did the job last weekend if you have any more questions you can reply to this comment
@@thumper2692 and don't forget before you start make sure you have all of your TTY bolts, Harmonic balancer bolts Fuel pump sprocket bolts Camshaft sprocket bolts Tensioner stud and tensioner nut Large roller bolt Those are all one time use only. My kit didn't come with the high pressure fuel pump bolts and I had to leave the car disassembled in the driveway for a week waiting for parts
Make sure you are on the correct stroke of TDC, and recheck your work! If the old belt is still on, make sure all your marks line up and the timing was correct before taking everything apart.
@fcpeuro thank you for the incredible video. I wouldn't have done it without you. I see at 32:33 on the screen it says 50nm but I think it should be 15nm. I checked the workshop manual and it says 15nm. I'm not sure if it is a typo. Please can you check.
replacing or rebuilding the engine is a lot more expensive. also you can get "lesser" kits that just have the belt, tensioner, and water pump. it's strongly advised to just spring for the full one though (as someone who did just that) because of all the other bits that add up. roller/idler bearings, all the torque-to-yield fasteners that need to be replaced each time, etc.
@41:15 - You didn't lock the three bolts on the cam nor the fuel pump bolts before doing the test rotations? wtf? @45::18 - Do you know how you can break the TDC indicator tab on the hpfp? Doing like you are doing without a counter hold. I see it a lot with inexperienced wrench monkeys.
