Voltlog  

No matter if english is not your 1st language. People all over the world can understand you perfectly. 2nd. No stupid accompanying music. 3rd. Very clean high quality camera and lighting. This worth more than a like. !!! Take care my friend !

Good job explaining thank you. Thank you for getting right to the point and no music in the background.

Test first *_then_* take it apart! Yes, I know Dave's saying but this was almost an example of not being able to test it before getting replacement parts. Testing it first also gives a base line to confirm that it was re-assembled correctly and no damage was done. It also verifies that it was indeed in working order when delivered. To hold it down while you are pushing up I would suggest first deciding where on your desk you will be mainly using it and then add some cloth strapping that can be connected to the underside of your desk. Various methods would work. Having a comfortable working position that allows both hands to hold the battery in place before your foot pushes the switch will provide a consistent quality.

The great review! I've never seen one work before this is so cool to see that! :-) Merry Christmas to you and yours and a Happy New Year as well! :-)

Bravo frate! Felicitări!

The transformer on a spacer is there simply to keep the switching noise down, by removing the core of the transformer from the steel chassis. The power supply for the electronics looks like it is a capacitive divider, so the entire control circuit is live at mains potential, including that foot switch. I would investigate inside it, and add an extra plastic isolating sheet to wrap around the microswitcg they use, if there is not already one there, as paint is a poor insulator. Power supply could also do with a larger value inrush limiting resistor and a MOV before the capacitor, as well as another big MOV across the power input ( after switch and fuse) and also a snubber across the TRIAC as well as upgrade. The switches are probably multiplexed via the display drive shift registers, probably by using one of the outputs that drive the LED's per switch, and then bringing the return back via resistors to the data out driving the shift registers, and scanning by simply turning the output back to an input with weak pullupwhen the shift registers are outputting for a switch, and seeing if it is high or low. then set a register internally and carry on scanning, and use software debounce. No extra pins required but slightly more code, and you need 3 pins anyway to drive the shift registers, clock, data and latch, and data can be tristated and used for input when clock is stable. Displays are probably Charlieplexed, there are libraries to do so off the shelf. Decent enough for occasional use, the thing that will fail is the little capacitive divider power supply, and that will result in the unit still having a display in the beginning, but it having unreliable pulsing, with the display flickering during pulses. Replace the film capacitor with a new class X2 one, along with the cheap electrolytic and it will run fine again. The second winding on the power transformer is there to provide an input to the micro so it can count mains pulses applied to the load, used to determine the transformer has been turned on by the triac for power control, and another input is used to trigger the triac, by providing a mains synchronous input to it as well for zero crossing. 6 pins available, 3 used by the display and 2 for input and output sensing for zero crossing, leaving one pin for driving the triac. I think the extra components and space are for a bigger micro on the more optioned units, and the extra board is there for that as well.

Thanks for sharing and Merry Christmas !

Merry Christmas to you .... I bought the SUNKKO 788H Model , It's a fair model as well A Few more Adjustment on it But overall For Occasional Use it does the job ... Thank you for the Review ....

I have the same spot welder. Mine had such a thick layer of paint under the grounding screw that the case was not even connected to ground. The foot switch smells like the type of plastic/rubber that could give you cancer. I always have to hold the welder down with one hand while holding the batteries with the other so it doesn't move up, if I reduce the pressure on the knob the welds will not stick. The transformer spacer could be either to reduce noise, reduce the resistance or reduce the cost due to the shorter copper leads. The fact that you can only set it to 2 pulses and cant adjust the time is kinda ridiculous. I measured the peak amps with a clamp meter and the max I got was 235A, far away from the 800A written on the enclosure. I will probably DIY a board for this with propper settings/interface using an OLED display and a modified microwave transformer. The enclosure itself is ok.

Another possibility of the plastic riser for the xformer is for short connection to the external terminals. The transformer may have had short secondary lead length from the manufacture which is fine if the external terminals are near the lower section of the face plate but not the case here. With the high current, keeping the leads short is a good idea and trying to lengthen the leads would be very problematic. Just a thought.

I agree with SeanBZA on the spacer... although I see an additional benefit: the space allows for a much shorter run of secondary lead to the head, reducing I2R loss. The programming should be changed to provide for setting 00 on the duty cycle control. 00 is meaningless, so I'd start at 01 and end at 99.

Spot welding is cleaner than soldering. Easy to dismantle the connections.

Nice review. My heart was jumping when you touched those welding arms with the machine switched on! :)

I´have the same one. My fuses always nocked out when i try to point a battery. I replace the rubbish transformer (one twist.... really only one twist!!!) with an transformer from an microwave with 10x 16mm seconrary twists, now the machine is well working, no fuses triggert from the welder.

The *transformer stand* has a few purposes. I've seen a couple guesses here but I _think_ they missed the mark. I believe the reasons are: _1st:_ they want to keep the external front panel contacts high enough to fit a variety of battery types and other jobs. This also allows a short pressure adjustment knob length and the terminal contact assembly may be a common assembly used in many different models and brands. _2nd:_ it is cheaper to add this stand than to have longer heavy gauge wires. This same transformer may be in use in another product and it was cheaper to add the stand than order a "custom special order" transformer with the longer wires. Shorter wires also keep the voltage drop down for the same gauge wire. _3rd:_ the extra holes in the stand allows for different transformer sizes. Either for more power or a different AC mains voltage. They might also have different suppliers for these thus using this stand made these changes easy to accommodate. _4th:_ this also allows the design to easily adapt a larger transformer for the next upgraded model in the same case. This again reduces future upgraded model costs to basically the transformer and front panel labelling, etc. IMHO any way. *_Merry Christmas_*

Great video ! The point in changing the board on this sucker is to avoid the major trouble which is tripping the breaker at every use ! I'm searching someone who can explain how to do that because it's very annoying. And the arm length is a pain in the butt as well. i really want to upgrade mine.

Good job Thanks

Transformer stood off chassis to reduce high magnetic field from pulling on steel chassis when welder is pulsed. Can be very loud. Thanks for upload. helped me decide to buy one :-)

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas Florin ;-)

Nice item

The block below the transformer could be for acoustic decoupling. i have some big linear power supplies and the hum from the transformers is audible in the entire house

Hola, debió haber probado la lámina de 0.2 en el borne negativo y una lámina de por ejemplo 10mm de ancho, ya no quedaría tan fuerte, saludos. Hello, you should have tried the 0.2 sheet on the negative terminal and a sheet of for example 10mm wide, it would not be so strong, greetings.

thanks for u video but please dear what best or normal or standard amp with timer to use 18650 battry?

All the strips that came with the unit created good welds and they were nickel coded steel but the pure nickel.015" I purchased separately would not weld. Any suggestions?

With mains FUSE! Not that Weller fuseless rubbish. :) These tabs bundled probably Ni plated steel. If it welds 0.2mm pure nickel, im sold.

nice!! 💪 👷🏻

tranformer fixed on plastic... to get . less noise

I have the 120volt unit and it fails to spot weld 0.015" x 10mm pure nickel strip. What are you using for strips and settings?

Thank you for reviewing this rather russian style chinese welding machine. I would assume it is good enough for a once in a while usage scenario.

The Transformer has no second - secondary wiring - its just a Temp Sensor. But thank you very much for your Upload! :)

The 'Nickel' strips that come with those machines are just nickel plated steel. Resistance is higher in steel so they weld easier but carry less current.

I got one I really like it for the price and it’s nice that it comes with battery tags

This spot welding machine transformer looks smaller than a microwave oven transformer. I don't know how it has 1500 watts. Have you done the measurement? Thanks. On the other hand, if the time is too short for measuring, you can try measurement on the primary side.

Thanks for the video, excellent work ! I hjave a quick question, I have this one and I would like to install a welding pen so it is more flexible and I can spot weld large battery packs with an hand held pen. What is your recommentation? Just connect 2 copper cables to the terminals ?

Thanks for the nice review. I have the exact same model and I'm using it in a 230V electric system but it is tripping my 16A circuit breaker. Out of curiosity, what was your amp limit on your AC installation you used for this test?

What wood be the next upgrade from this particular model

Whats the thickest wribbon it can weld? Im using .6mm thick strips that can handle 80 amps.

Hi, I´ve bought this spot welder too, but it turns off the circuit breaker at 40 % current or more.. I have to solve this issue... Do you know how ? Thanks.

Can you measure the open circcuit voltage?

Plastic block under the transformer - maybe it allows shorter heavy gauge wires to the terminals. ? 1" plastic block saves 2" expensive heavy copper wire ?

DOES IT WORK WITH 220V 16AMP? someone said that it needs a 25A breaker🤔

The rubber is there to isolated the transformer from the case. 220v could kill you on a 30 amp breaker

Mr. Brother, I bought it, but I plug the machine and when I start to punish, that is, when I do the punishment, I throw the cycloon of the house, I tried it in all the plugs in the house, but it does so. I wonder if you have any information about it, I would appreciate it Respects

So many better solutions. These Sunnko welders are old school. Please review other kits, kweld jpwelder and several Aliexpress versions. We desperately need your review

If the transformer powers the other components then how does it switch the transformer to weld ?

Can someone measure the resistance for me across the AC input I just ordered one and it fell from the box due clumsiness, it fell on the AC wire and there's a dent now, I just measured the resistance between the AC plug and the system and it gives me about 193k ohms is that normal?

I believe there are two great spotwelder projects out there. The kweld and the audrino spotwelder. I have not seen a comparison of those two. But I know they have bin at it for a long long time and many hours of work en improvements. You surly have a lot of work in front of you mate

Hi VoltLog, after publish your Video I bought this unit because I've just from time to time to make a new battery block, really not very often. My SUNKKO 737G has a 20Amp Fuse and I couldn't welder without eject the 16 Amp Fuse of the room. Do you have an Idea to modify the unit to can work with them under 16 Amp room fuse?

Could you put a link for the purchase of the transformer only. You mentioned it could be bought from Ali Express . I would like to purchase just the mains transformer. Thanks for your videos

I get the same results from a makeshift spot welder I made from a 12v tractor battery 350 cold cranking amps, a Starter Solenoid for a 1978 Ford Bronco, a heavy duty momentary switch, Copper nails to make the contact for welding, 60 amp wire double insulated that fit inside the SODIAL(R) 60 Amp - 12 Way Strip Terminal Block Strip - Electrical Wire Connector Amp:60A Connector Block www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MZKWQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm upgrading the wire, but I can still make many welds without the wire getting warm. This is what I had laying around to make it in a pinch. I just tap the switch as fast as possible. You really want solid nickel strips because the one here rust, the plating is too thin.

How reliable is this battery welder ?

Hello friends, hope you are well. Can I ask what's the glass fuse rating on the back? Many thanks

I get order on Banggood and I recived it today. When try to weld. it's making my house circuit breaker to trip, shutting down the electricity. I have 220V 16A. I can not use it. Have any advise? What can Ido?

Salut, am cumpărat recent un astfel de aparat, dar nu pot "suda cu el" deoarece îmi sare siguranta la greu. Am siguranțe automate. Recent a cedat placa de bază. Sunt in discuții cu vânzătorul să îmi trimită alta placă.

I think it is easy to attach extending thick copper cables and use it for larger battery pack.

Hi, is the sunkko 787a+ or sunkko 788h batter?.

I have the 115 volts and the weld don't stick

your explaination are so good, how can i contact you, i want to sub/dub these video to vietnamese and re-up it

Service point in Hyderabad India

Is this the 110v or 220v device ?

What circuit breakers do you use?

got a primary side fuse, must be good - dave lol the 788 model had the transformer directly bolted to the bottom syonyk.blogspot.com/2015/05/sunkko-788-welder-failure-and-repair.html i figured soldering 18650s with the ZD985 desoldering station works quite well, high heat capacity transfers it more quickly and doesnt heat up the cells much. id preffer the soldering way in case i gotta replace a cell or two.

I have one and it doesn't really weak welds, I would not recommend it to anyone.

Many kits on Aliexpress. Very cheap

Shit welder triggered my 25A fuses they told me to replace it with 70a fuses I asked them for the CE report or a refund, guess what I got...

Dungu...

Get a welder with longer lead probes. www.keenlab.de/index.php/product-category/kspot-welder-kit/. endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68865

My 737 died quickly, like after 4 welds. The Arduino and JP Welders on endless_sphere dot com are far better and have a wider range of nickel strip thickness. I burned up two Sunnko.

8:27... Lousy design.. The rocker switch is mounted upside-down. Normal standard operation is push on top to turn 'ON'.