Volvo 240 Turbo Install 

That is a good catch, man. We realized before fitting the turbo that they were in backwards and switched them around. I didn't realize I used this old footage of me putting them in backwards. Good comment. Thanks.

Yep, keep up the good work and entertaining vids! I just got a super clean 84 242 and have been watching different vids to get me in the mood for all of the upcoming work it needs.

Oh nice. We also have a 242 that needs a world of work right now.

@@ClappedOutGarage a 6 6 66 a

I was wondering if I could pick your brain on a turbo swap my son and I did. We started with my son's 240 dl wagon and added the same turbo you have. We did about all the same shit with the two ecu's. We got everything put together in a few days. It's runs kinda crappy and it won't Rev over 3 grand. No vacuum leaks. The car ran perfect before we messed with it. Any ideas

We shopped around a little bit for the best prices and brands. We use FCPEuro, IPD, and sometimes rockauto. Occasionally we will get something at a local parts store or off ebay.

The block is from another NA 240, so it doesn't have the oil squirters unfortunately. It should still last a while as long as we don't turn the boost way up.

Mainly because we had easy access to the hard line and fittings. Braided line would probably have been easier to do.

yeah i also wonder what ecu/ wire harness in the process of wanting to turbo mine it has the LH 2.2 tho

It's kind of hidden between the water pump and alternator. You may need to move the alternator and bracket out of the way to get to it.

And yalls was a 1/4" plug?

Lots of variables here, it's hard to say what you would get. A stock b230FT gets around 160 so I would say that would be ballpark. My only admonition is that you consider a different transmission. Look for an AW71 to swap in if anything. There are a ton of options. Check out sites like turbobricks for some good info.

We just stripped it down to a long-block and changed out seals, gaskets, water pump, belts etc. If you have the engine out on a stand and you don't take the head off and tear into it you can refresh everything in just a few hours.

Just another stock one from a parts car.

standard sump.

AC Delete is super easy. Before you do it you need to make sure the system is empty and not pressurized. If yours isn't empty you should have it depressurized at a shop. It's dangerous and harmful to release the vapors into the environment. You basically just unbolt the AC compressor from the bracket and unplug the wires going to it. Then you can disconnect the hoses going to the compressor and remove it. The condenser sits in front of the radiator and will have a few wires and hoses going to it. You can just disconnect those and pull the condenser out after you remove it from it's bracket. The receiver/drier sits on the firewall in most cases and you can use wrenches to remove it. Check out our engine pull video around the one minute mark to see what I'm talking about. Around the two-and-a-half minute mark in that video you can see I used a big pair of bolt cutters to cut some of the AC lines. Makes removal super easy and you can get bolt cutters like that with a lifetime warranty for like $20. That's basically it. Nothing fancy at all. Super easy. If your AC works you should keep it in, but if it doesn't there is no reason to keep it if you don't plan on fixing it or don't care about the re-sale value of the car. Be careful and have fun. You should film your Volvo projects too, man. Maybe make a video on how you do the AC delete for your first upload.

Thank guys! Helped alot

Since theyre running a pre 93 block from a 240, probably has 9mm rods. Cant push those too much. Still has N/A B cam in it unless they changed it. Without going standalone fuel mgmt, can probably only put out 5-10psi before fuel cut. Maybe make 130 hp if you're lucky.

With the pan removed, you'd be able to flush the shavings out with brake cleaner fairly easily. I wouldn't advise doing it without removing the sump, but it could probably be done.

Would have liked to do that but we didn't have a good one to use. This was a relatively quick swap so we didn't get too carried away squeezing out all the performance that we could. As you notice, we don't even have a T cam in it.

@@ClappedOutGarage I guess that makes sense. I would've preferred a VX cam though, but maybe that wouldn't be as efficient with a turbo. Anyhow, performance isn't everything.. until you take a sick day and end up getting annoyed by the clock aggressively ticking away.

mcdonald

LH2.4

Yeah this was kind of a quick build so we didn't do everything all fancy and nice. Trying to be perfect just results in stuff never getting finished for us. And polished heads don't really give you much performance increase unless you are really really deep into a high hp build.

ACTUALLY the boots in this video are timberlands. I am actually a huge fan of Red Wing boots as they are the only brand that I have found will actually last me more than 6 months without falling apart. Specifically, I wore the 3507 for 4 years until the toes were too beat up to wear anymore, never re-soled them. I also have a pair of Red Wing shoes that I've worn for over 6 years and only re-soled once. I used to walk 1 mile to work, be on my feet all day long, and walk home in those shoes. All other brands of shoes and boots I've tried have been very disappointing. Right now I'm wearing a pair of Wolverine boots and after 6 weeks the leather is torn and falling apart. Of course, my Red Wings were made in the USA and cost twice as much as anything else I've ever worn, but I'm beginning to think they are worth it.

Unfortunately no, they didn't put redblocks in those. Totally different engine.