Great tips, did mine a month ago, I used nutbuster heater to heat up those 4 bolts that hold egr valve, once they start loosening go slow!!! Back and forth 1/8’ at the time so they don’t break
I did a video “Volvo D13 EGR repair”. In it I break down the entire egr and rebuild it. The oil lines cool the egr. As you will see they do not lubricate the egr. For less than $20 a lubrication port can be added to the egr valve and eliminate the problem of it failing.
Thank you for the great vid. I’m seeing a little bit of residue of soot. Do you know if it’s because of a bad EGR ? I checked the muffler and also by the filter and I didn’t see any black markings on them. The truck is 2012 Volvo VNL Thanks
was surprised to see the video as i didnt know you were doing them!.i was listening and was like, i know that voice then saw the name! 1 hell of a Great Mechanix, Carl word was gold to me! Best of luck to you Carl!
Oliver Bouteiller you really can’t, on that one the only real way to get it without breaking it, is patience. Break them all loose spray penetrant through the gasket space on the threads and tighten it back in, keep repeating that process. I have also had decent luck heating the boss on the manifold up not wicked hot, but two-three hundred degrees, and cool it by spraying penetrant on the bolt threads. As the air inside, behind the bolt cools it will draw the oil up into the threads. Then keep working it out a little spraying tightening, loosening, spraying, etc... it’ll come out. Honestly I expect to spend an hour maybe two on that one bolt.
Im on youtube looking for solid answers on the D11. My 2009 D11 (has DPF) and ishift. Has an issue. When going down the road and getting up there at just above the green mark on the RPM gauge it's dash alarm begins Buzzing and shows me this NICE, LARGE Oilcan icon and then buzzes with a red " ! " and begins to limp. I see black SMOKE, and have some black stuff spattered on the back of the cab at this RPM and ONLY this RPM under load. I can rev it while parked and no issues. No warnings, but while driving I get this alarm lamp. Thank you for the help!
Rick Mahnn hmm, is the black stuff oil, or soot? If it’s soot, I’d look for boost leaks, or ERG sticking. The oil light throws me off, when it does this do you lose considerable power? It could be the ECU derating the engine because it sees low oil pressure, or high crankcase pressure, or cooling jet pressure sensor. both will give you the red stop lamp, and a failing oil pressure, or cooling jet pressure sensor would give you the oil lamp.. my guess is the oil pressure or cooling jet pressure sender. Unplug them and see if there is oil in the connector on the sensor. If there is its def that sender. But check both this is a known failure. Without more info, and engine data I don’t know for sure. Do you have access to fault codes?
To @@carlthedieselguy5147 : The Code is MID 128 PID 100 FMI 1. As for the soot: I can take my finger and rub it across the specks of soot and it is almost like sticks to the back of the cab, yet it is not wet. It is powder-like and blows this spotty ashe. At the time of the warning light it was NOT losing power and the truck decides to de-rate to slow itself down. I can drive this for about 10 minutes before it before it begins to throw this alarm up and even on high throttle acceleration at first it does not do this. But as the engine warms up. Is where the issue begins to start. When this alarm FIRST starts. i can slow down and the alarm goes away. But when it starts wrapping up into the 1,500 rpm range it will come on and then I have to start slowing down, slowly more and more as the alarm begins to become more frequent at the speeds I was previously at. As I gradually step down in speed on the road.. One other thing I have noticed is that during idle it sounds like the engine is under a load and a high-pitch whistle sound is there at first. Then it finally quits making a "loading sound" and whistling. I dont know if this can help. I've only had the truck for a month as I use to own an FLD120. Thank you!
