Ted, thank for the video. I was able to replace my universal joint with no problems. I tried to schedule a paid video consulting session with you but for whatever reason you didn't respond.
Continued: ...........1:00 that is the seal surface washer. It is O-ring sealed to the male yoke. There are no shims used since this preload is Crush Sleeve controlled.... aka Pre-Tension Sleeve. .... 1:28..... this part does not contact the gear sleeve. It contacts the roller cage race only. ..... 2:58, you can see the Crush Sleeve... aka Pre-Tension Sleeve. ..... 3:22..... there is an old secret way to reuse a crush sleeve. .... 3:37.... FYI... these gears are sold and are used in sets of 3. We cannot replace just one gear. ...... 4:30, if we heat up the aluminum bearing box, the races will almost fall out on their own. Likewise when installing the new races. Heat is usually your friend in this and similar situations. By the way, these are Industry Standard bearings, and can be purchased through any good major bearing supplier. The Industry Std pn will be lasor etched into them. Steer clear of the BBQ pork and fried rice brands. .... 6:11 and again at 7:10... use extreme caution when pressing the 30207 bearing onto the gear shaft. You will want to avoid prematurely crushing the sleeve. To avoid jerky press movements, coat the shaft and the ID of the roller cage race with automotive Neer-Seez. ..... 7:36.... again, if need be, there is an old trick that we can use to expand a crush sleeve and regain the dimension. ..... 8:16, it is preferred to use a light film of sealant on the OD of the seal. ..... 8:56 Use Caution. The sealing ring OD must be pristine. If not, it will take out the new seal in no time at all. If you polish the OD of the old one (and it can be done up to .004"), there must not be any swirl marks. FWIW, I always install the seal surface washer into the seal, then fit the male yoke assembly into the gear shaft ID. ..... 12:40, do not confuse the string-pull-scale value procedure with the rotational force value procedure. See your OEM work shop manual for the specs and procedure for your specific transmission. Bearings must be oiled for this procedure! ..... 14:20.... the 290 is not the same as a DP-E. The DP-E falls into the A category. Do not use 290 procedures. FYI.... the stamped #s and etching #s are rather complex when changing to another set of gears. If up for the task, go ahead and use them. Otherwise, you can use prusian blue and do it the old school way. If you happen to have Hypoid gear set-up experience, that is a real plus. .... 16:53.... "pinion" gear is synonymous with "ring&pinion". In this transmission, you will see only one "drive" gear and two "driven" gears. .... The FWD and REV gears only refer to the Duo Prop, whereby the lower driven gear is used for FWD propulsion. The s/p drives can spin either a LH or RH propeller, therefor either driven gear can be FWD or REV. .... 20:12, allow me to clarify this. With the top cover bolts tightened, the gap between the case and the top cover should be ZERO. The .003" dimension is the desired squeeze of the bearing and retainer as to prevent rotation. Great video..... and please, no offense intended.
I just tried to preload the pinion after having the drive shaft removed - bearings not changed. I pulled 125Nm on the bolt and am getting 10N starting force on the string and 5N while in motion. Does that sound about right?
