Volvo Penta Sterndrive - U Joint Replacement AQ Series

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Universal Joint Replacement - Volvo Penta AQ series Sterndrives
This episode shows how to service the U-Joints on the older AQ series outdrives.
Applies to models 260 through 290, 290-A and DP & SP.
Note models 260-290 do not use the crush sleeve shown in the video,
They use shims under the seal washer to set the preload. Keep track of these shims.
This video is for entertainment and info only, not intended as a repair or rebuilding guide.
Timelines:
0:00 Intro
1:15 Important Tip
1:50 Teardown
14:32 Remove Old U-Joints
21:28 New U-Joints
30:58 Reassembly
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Contact info:
Email: dean57ayr@gmail.com
for the shimming spreadsheet or upper removal instructions.
We usually have some Volvo Penta AQ parts or units on eBay. Link below
www.ebay.com/usr/dellori3
Thanks for viewing,
Please consider the Thumbs Up “like” and Subscribe buttons to help the channel.
Tags:
Volvo Penta, sterndrive, outdrive, boat repair, Volvo Penta props, Duo Prop, Penta AQ, service a Volvo-Penta AQ outdrive, Cone Cultch, boat repair

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Опубликовано:

6 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 29

@outsidescrewball 6 месяцев назад

Watched every minute…Enjoyed, great discussion / demonstration / build tips

@TheAyrCaveShop 6 месяцев назад

Thanks Chuck !

@AdamAnthonyAdventures 24 дня назад

Thanks this was very useful to me. I just did the ujoints. I was able to remove them without separating from the gearbox. The last knuckle is a little tight but a little tierod press did the trick.

@TheAyrCaveShop 22 дня назад

Glad it helped 👍 Thanks !

@bearsrodshop7067 6 месяцев назад

The owner will soon be able to make a few trip's around Alcatraz soon,,,hehe! Great to be having your back in 2024 early, Bear.

@TheAyrCaveShop 6 месяцев назад

Happy New Year Bear, Yeah it was a busy holiday

@GardenTractorBoy 6 месяцев назад

It was very interesting to watch, thanks. Great tip about using some scrap to stop the ears of the U/J bending

@TheAyrCaveShop 6 месяцев назад

Thanks Joseph, Yeah there a bit tricky

@westmichiganfishing9613 6 месяцев назад

You are the best, I'll be removing my lower unit in the spring to replace the steering helmet bushings and V-gasket. During this time, I plan on inspecting the u-joints, replace the bellows and any other PM I see.

@TheAyrCaveShop 6 месяцев назад

Thanks for the nice comment... So important to keep up with the maintenance 👍

@arthurcitron9774 5 месяцев назад

Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸

@westmichiganfishing9613 6 месяцев назад

"Fineness it, don't force it" wise words. You should put that on a shirt.

@TheAyrCaveShop 6 месяцев назад

A couple of my buddies need that shirt 😎😎

@christophercullen1236 6 месяцев назад

You have the talent ! From down under

@TheAyrCaveShop 5 месяцев назад

Thanks ! Cheers....

@MattysWorkshop 6 месяцев назад

Great video, very informative mate

@TheAyrCaveShop 5 месяцев назад

Thanks Matty !

@dongillespie3995 5 месяцев назад

Great videos thanks

@ssm5372 2 месяца назад

Great video, but how did you remove the 4 bolts that hold the housing? Mine won't budge!

@TheAyrCaveShop Месяц назад

Yeah they get very corroded. Be carful it's common to break them off. Here's some tips: Use a propane torch and heat up the side of the housing following the bolt path, concentrate on the bottom 2/3 of the bolt length. When the paint starts turning a brownish burnt color that's about the right temperature. With a cutoff length of hex key use it like a punch in the bolt head and give it several sharp hammer blows. This will help break the corrosion bond, then Then try loosing it. You may need to work it back and forth and add penetrant. Keep repeating the process as needed. I've had to scrap several units that lived most of there life's in saltwater do to the frozen bolts. If they snap off at the threads they can be drilled out and saved. The ones that snap off just below the bolt head are almost impossible to save. It's the bolt shank that's the issue in most cases.

@ssm5372 Месяц назад

Thanks for the detailed advice! If they won't come out I may snap them off or drill the heads out, take it apart, heat up the remaining shanks and get them out that way. I may have to weld nuts onto the shanks to remove them. If that works, I may try putting in studs and have nuts and washers to tighten everything down. I don't know why they didn't use studs and nuts to begin with so the corroded threads would be right in front of you instead of hiding the problem 1/3 of the way into the unit body. My problem is I have to replace the input shaft seal so before I do all that I may try AT205 in the oil for a season to see If it will rejuvenate the seal. I'll just have to check the oil level a lot! 😵‍💫

@BaldGuyComedy 5 месяцев назад

Do you have any info on Power trim models like the 270pt or 280pt ? They seem super rare which makes me finding ANY repair info next to impossible.

@TheAyrCaveShop 5 месяцев назад

Absolutely right there are rare.. I've never worked on one or seen one in the wild.

@dzmarinemechanics3238 2 месяца назад

Hi, this upper unit that you're working on always overheats when i start the engine, in the first 20 sec os start, when i pull out the dipstick the oil is very hot and get out from the dipstick hole, what could be the problem ??

@TheAyrCaveShop 2 месяца назад

That could be a bad bearing