In this video I go over some diagnostic tips to help determine Boost pressure, pressure test the after cooler and why the engine may black smoke on acceleration.
Great video Ted, I'm going to call it my lucky day finding your video. 2000 TAMD31-PA w 1700 hours, owned the boat since 2014. Background: Fuel pump was leaking and had the mechanical fuel pump rebuilt 18 months/150 hours ago & had the injectors rebuilt at the same time. This year it's started giving black smoke during acceleration. I've had a local marine mechanic say turbo seals are my problem, but he doesn't "do" Volvo & didn't say any more. Turbo turns anyway but I've never done anything to it. 1) I'll look at the hard plastic smoke limiter hose. 2) I don't know how to check the diaphragm on the aneroid (sp?). 3) you also suggested cleaning the aftercooler by running some Yanmar turbo wash through it - I'll do that. 4) I don't have a gauge to measure the boost pressure for the turbo, I'll figure out how to check that (4.3psi @ 1800 rpm & 13.7 psi @ 2500 rpm). I also have unburned fuel residue coming out the exhaust (inboard w wet exhaust). The engine burns very little oil. Any suggestions other than what I've listed from your previous comments? Thanks
Hi Ted, I’m a marine engineer but my skill set pertains mostly to much larger engines. I’ve worked with many makes both large and small but rarely Volvos. Now I find myself with an old commercial fishing boat with an AQAD41A. I’m thankful to have found this channel.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 well, I may have a question… any idea if there’s a digital shop manual for one of these floating about the inter webs? I’ve found the odd site but they seem sketchy. Any that you’d trust? Cheers Ted.
Ted, Your thoughts on a TAMD31P-A, Black Soot and smoke. 600 hours since new. When I run at dock, smokes and soots through exhaust until warm. What should I be looking for? Thank you! Wally
Hi Ted, firstly, I’d just like to say I’ve only recently started watching some of your tutorials and fine them so informative and helpful; You show and explain things so well. What I’d also like to ask you Ted, is is there also a workshop manual for the Volvo penta range, most notably for the early 1989 AD31. I have 2 of these in my boat and a manual would really benefit me too. Best Mike kempton (England)
Amazing video! I wish you were in Tampa, my mom has two KAMD 300s and one of them is overheating intermittently so I’ll be checking these things, hopefully they were missed by her mechanics. Take care!
@@martind9823 thanks for the reply! I think we will still need to do that but her instert on her aftercooler is completely corroded and ruined, so thats $3000 but after that’s replaced I will be keeping up on this. Previous owner did zero maintenance 🤦🏼♂️. Thanks again!
Hey Ted. What a great video. Any thoughts on assessing the health of the heat exchangers? AQAD31As .... want to deal with potenial issues before they arise!
Hi Ted, gr8 vid thanks. I was called out to check a squeaking noise on a TAMD41a few months back, found it was the rocker shaft on stbd engine.. it also looked dry on the rocker shaft and general upper area. Guy said he changed oil and confirmed oil psi with a manual gauge.. what could cause no oil to rocker shaft yet have oil pressure? Is there a feed tube of sorts? I did do the valve lash before- but the squeaking is still there.. it was near the 3rd cyl rocker shaft iirc - thanks. fyi we rebuild gas engines :)
Hi Ted Appreciate you’re sharing your insight with us. I will definitely check the little hose to the smoke limiter👍 One question on the TAMD31, I have heard some complaining about very slow startup I cold weather (me including). Is it possible to install glow plugs on that engine, if so how? Keep the videos coming..👍
I am not sure about glow plug installation but will look to see if there is a kit. The key switch has that circuitry already I know that. I usually find the cranking rpm to be the issue with hard cold weather starting. Are you using a large enough "start" battery and not a gel cell or deep cycle design?.
Hi, Enjoy your series. Question....How do you replace an oil pressure sensor...my engine is AQAD-41A. Special tools? I have seen the sensor in other series engines in your videos and is in same place in my engine....between oil filter housing and engine mount. I can put my fingers on it....but no idea of how to get tools on it. Thank You! Tom Lechota
Fantastically clear descroption. Thank you. I have an oil leak coming from the back of the raw water pump where it attaches to the timing case...any ideas it s a TMD 41B?
Behind the rubber water pump there is a rubber seal that after time let's by water leakes out of the side slit holes userly a drip in the early stages take pump out completely you can buy a back end rebuild kit from a volvo parts
Hi Ted, After having viewed your wonderful video I realised that the, smoke limiter hose, is completely split. Is there a spare part with the hose only or I have to go for the whole thing. Or could I try to strengthen it out, with some sort of clip. And one more thing Ted, I haven't cheched the injectors for more than 16 years. Is it a must to do it or I can wait for some sort of indication. Thank you so much for your time. I wish I could follow your cources. the engine is a TMD41a. Great engine!
I will check the part#. As for the injectors, good fuel, change ALL fuel fulters annually or less and they should be worry free for a long long time. If you sense a loss of power or miss fire then they should be checked. Without that hose it will black smoke on hard acceleration
Excellent video - many thanks. A question if I may - losing coolant on my KAD300 - about a cup every hour when running. Definitely not in the bilges. Oil seems coolant free and Coolant seems oil free. Had heat exchanger cleaned over winter, so naturally thought that this might be the culprit. However, pressure tested the coolant system (cold and warm) and didn’t drop pressure at all (did remove the heat exchanger again and had it retested - all good) bit puzzled - any ideas greatly appreciated. Many thanks
It may be the exhaust manifold to turbocharger gasket is leaking when the engine gets hot under load and then doesn't leak when everything cools and shrinks. You can try retorqueing the 4 turbo nuts to see if they are loose. Spec is 33 ft pds
@Ted Chamberlin Marine Repairs I Ted. Mine it's a TAMD31D most known as TAMD31L-A i think, from 1994 (130hp). Full throttle just get 3300 rpm maximum. It's leaking oil from the bottom of the aftercooler, so i'm guessing turbo needs to be repaired or replaced. it's a 28 years old turbo anyway. Planing to do some maintenance on the aftercooler (cleaning and new seals) and replace the turbo. i got the pressures from the book, do i need to read it only at WOT or can it be at constant rpm? TAMD31L 1800 r/min --> 30 kPa (4.3 psi) 2500 r/min --> 80 kPa (11.6 psi) 3250 r/min --> - 3800 r/min --> 140 kPa (20.3 psi) Can´t reach the 3800rpm so i'll need to average the 3250rpm anyway. Loads of grey steam starting from the 2900 rpm. No problem reaching the 4250rpm in neutral. Thanks for your help so far. You channel is golden!
Hi Ted, im still trying to find the cause of my buzzer coming on since i last made contact with you i have changed the thermostats and had the heat exchanger off and cleaned it was about 10 percent blocked, i thought i had found the problem but no, the buzzer still comes on. I have put a heat gun on it when the buzzer is on and at the front of the head it was reading around 159 deg. Fahrenheit. Also to check the exhaust is blocked without taking it off i was thinking of drilling a hole in the water jacket near the rear of the manifold then tapping it to take a pressure gauge to see if it builds up pressure if it does it might indicate a blockage, whats you thought on that, im really grabbing at straws now. Regards Paul
Hi Ted. I have two TAMD 71B engines in my boat. One of them is starting and runs perfekt the other one is very difficult to start (the start motor has to run for a time) and it seems worth
Check to see if there is any air bubbles coming out of the primer pump by opening the bleed screw on the fuel filter housing. If you see bubbles then air is being drawn into the fuel system before the primer pump. Also could be the primer pump has something stuck in one of the check valves.
Hi Ted, agree ... great video(s). I have a TAMD31-L in my boat, a 1996 Ellis, purchased in 2019. In your video you mention no anodes in the model in your shop. I would like to confirm that a TAMD31-L (869006) does NOT have any anodes. (s/n is 2203122225). Thanks.
If it looks like the one shown in my video it does not. Search online for Volvo penta parts for your model. Look in the heat exchanger and after cooler
Hi my turbo boost gauge spins over to full when engine started and stays in that position till it’s turns off , just wondering what this could mean thanks luke
Hi Ted. Great video's. I've got a TAMD31P-A in my sailboat. Due to the install location, (Under the floorboards) it's always a messy job to replace the oil filter. Question, are there any remote oil filter kits so that I can place the oil filter in a more accessible location? Second question, I see that some other VP models have the Raw Water Filter after (on top of) the raw water pump. Do you see any problem in installing one of these even if you have one before the pump, basically ending up with two raw water filters. The idea being to protect the system from debris from a failed impeller. Thanks for the info. Cheers
There are aftemarket installation kits, I don't believe there is one that VP makes. If you wanted you could take the filter braket off the engine and relocate, then take the oil lines to a hydraulic shop and have them make you up longer oil hoses. Having the sea-strainer before the pump I feel is best, and of course changing the impeller on a routine basis (prior to failure!).
Solid to the point video, love it. I have TAMD 74p-a. When I go to get on plane, the port engine falls way behind the starboard engine in spooling up. Eventually it catches up and I hit the 2600 rated RPM’s I am noticed that the port engine is burning some oil throughout the last 80 hours or so. What would you think this would point to, or what should I check first?
So a lag in one against the other may indicate a dragging turbo. Sounds like the port may be leaking oil past the exhaust seal in the turbo. Blue smoke?? If so, pull the risers and inspect both turbines of each motor for oil leakage.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 so after pulling apart and inspecting the turbos, it appears that replacement was warranted. The early plastic air filters must have been to blame for some of the damage to the veins on the intake side. With 1700 hours on both I decided to change turbos. And test run yesterday proved it was the right call. Performance through the roof. Went from 16 seconds to plane down to 7 seconds on a 45k lb boat.
Great video. I have a 2000 Albemarle with twin TAMD41P stern drives. I´ve been struggling to figure out why the starboard engine only reaches 3600 RPM and the port will reach 4100. A no load test will have both at 4100 RPM. Engine seems fine with no blow by when I remove the valve cover cap. No noticeable missing when the engine runs. IT just doesn't go beyond the 3600 rpm. I've swapped drives and props, verified the tachometers, swapped fuel supplies from port to starboard, added new Racor 500 filters, had a mechanic remove the injection pump and send out for a rebuild. I also installed permanent turbo boost gauges and the slower motor is always double the boost as the good motor. If the port motor is running 10 lbs the starboard is 20 lbs. Any ideas?
Hi Ted Greetings from the Emerald Isle.Thank you for the great correct informative video on the 31 engine. I am currently working on servicing my twin 1991 Tamd31B engines as they are fairly smokey on start up and black smoke when opened up but it did settle back a bit.They haven’t been run at full power as much as they should and I suspect the lower speeds haven’t helped and have contributed to the sooting up.I drained both fuel tanks also as there was old diesel around 5 years old in them.I have new after -cooler and turbo seal kits to put in and took exhaust side of turbo off port engine to have a look and it was fairly sooted up with a good coating of deposits around the housing as well as the turbine.I have cleaned off both sides now but noticed there is a lot of oily residue on the pipe from the turbocharger to the after-cooler.I suspect the cooler will have a lot of residue also when I open it.Would this oil be coming from the turbocharger seals? I can spin the compressor inside easily and it is not rubbing off anything but there is an ever so light point when you spin it that it slows.I don’t hear that distinctive whistle kicking in when the rpm increases.Both engine compressors are spinning at idle.Should I continue to service the after coolers first anyway before I do anymore on the turbos?.I will soak the inserts and pipes to get the oil off them and check the cooler insert for blockages.Any suggestions appreciated.Regards. Greg Aston
Clean the aftercoolers and run some yanmar turbo wash through them. If they don't spin up after check back pressure to see if excessive if not rebuild turbos, they are likely dragging
Hi again Ted.Have you done any rebuild info in the past on the Volvo MS4B reverse gear boxes.My cone clutch mechanism starts to get slow to engage once warmed up going forward.This happens when coming in to the berth and when I go in to reverse and then go forward there is a lag to engage gear again.Would changing out the cone and thrust washers etc be outside my remit as I know shimming correctly is important also and are specialist tools required for doing this section.I have the workshop manual but I don’t have any people in the area willing to take it on.As far as I know it is possible to get different shim thicknesses from Volvo as well as the cone.I also have a complete donor MS4B box which is a bit too clunky going in to gear.This had a new set of output bearings and crush sleeve put in as well as the copper cooler which was leaking and was repaired,but I don’t think it was shimmed correctly.It doesn’t slip in forward and reverse so I was wondering if I could transfer the parts from this into the other box.Any thoughts on my options appreciated. Regards Greg
Great videos! I have a Tamd41p. Ive had it for one year now. I try and do all my own maintenance. Are there some things I should look at like problem areas with that motor. It’s a saltwater boat with a heater hose for the cabin coming off the motor. Planning on trying to flush the antifreeze out soon. Should I just drain the antifreeze and replace or do some sort of flush? Thanks agian
Sorry for the delay. You can simply drain it, fill it with distilled water an run it for few minutes and then drain it and fill it back up with antifreeze and distilled water 50/50. Maintenance is change all fuel filters annually, the anodes in the heat exchanger and aftercooler and check the belts. Raw water impeller/kit R&R every 200 hours or every 2 years for worry free operation. If you look it may have an air filter and crankcase ventilation filter which likely need changing as well.
Hi I have a d3-190 that has been under saltwater. Took the water out of the motor and cleaned all electronics. It started without problem., until we took it out for a test (4 weeks later). Limp mode from the boat Launch to the marina. It shut off when i tried accelerating, and had to pump the diesel to get it running again. Now i have 2 active fault codes: Mid 128 sid 2 fmi 11 Mid 128 sid 5 Fmi 11 Now it wont run at all, if i erase the fault codes with Vodia it starts and runs for 1 sec. I have switched injector 5 with 4, and 2 with 3, without moving the errors. Do you have any advise on what to do next? Or what the problem could be?
Hi agen now i got a diffrent problem😢 the main fuel pump is leaking its between the main pump and the squar part where the pipes to the injectors are conected Is there a rubber seal? Part nr? To remove the pump do i need to go inn from the registrery?
Hi Ted great video ,thanks.This is the exact engine i have in my boat, 4 years ago i changed the turbo (which was burnt out exhaust side) and the boat was running fine with the new turbo.This year the turbo had so much soot in it it stopped turning,it's been stripped and rebuilt, but the boat is sluggish and using a lot of fuel, the engine wont rev out under load to more than 3400 RPM at which point im only getting 13 psi in the inlet manifold. Any help would be much appreciated. Even a link to the right graph that shows me my turbo curve would be helpful so that i could eliminate that problem.many thanks
Some great info. Can you tell me where the tacho sender is placed on the tamd41a. We are powered by 2 41a the port side has started to give eronious readings on both the upper and lower helm tachos as it's both it won't be the units, could be wiring or a sensor, just can't spot the sensor location.
0n top of the raw/fresh water pump housing....two nodes are sticking up connected to wires...I have a Tmd40a and that’s where mine is. Easy to knock off
Hi Ted, I enjoyed your video and it is very easy to follow. Now I have a question, my TAMD41A's smoke so much when cold. In fact, I smoke out the marina. I have used fuel additives but nothing seems to work. My next plan of attack is having the injectors re-conditioned. What do you think? Many thanks in advance.
Hey Ted great video!! I attended New England Tech in the automotive program. I recently purchased a boat that has 2 tamd41p-a and I have a problem of black smoke starting at 2000rpm. They run great from idle to 2000rpm and then begins large amounts of black smoke turbos spin by hand nice a free no excessive axial or radial play in the shaft. I’ve ran it with and without air filter same condition. What would be your first move? Any help you can give me would be appreciated.
First off you need to install a back pressure gauge and a boost pressure gauge and then take it for a ride and record the peak values when it starts to smoke and then again at top rpm. If you need help with this contact me at school.
Hi there.I have 2 kad43 engines.Last year changed head gaskets and rebuild upper engine and new turbos,cleaned all coolers etc.If I use the boat for 3 hrs or more at not mor than 3100rpm all is fine,if I go past 3100 one of the engine gets hot..impellers are new too.Thanks!
Check the riser temp with an infared temp gun, test both to see if one is hotter than the other, likely a riser or the raw water pump may be pulling in air, install a clear piece of hose on the outlet side and run to see if there are any bubble in the coolant hose
hi ted, i was very lucky to find this very nice video and to have found someone as prepared as you are. I am from Italy and I have a boat with two volvo penta 130 hp tamd31 a engines. one of the two does not take me all the turns in navigation ..... 1100 turns are missing. I even went so far as to check if one of the two inverters was wrong. I mounted these two engines a few months ago. fuel circuit checked again. I don't know which fish to take ....... Help....
So I gather the rpm is low on one motor? If so I will need more info and will require a a consultation. Please email me at marinedoc01@yahoo.com if you wish to hire me for more help
Hey Ted, I have a set of twin KAMD 300’s in my 28’ Carolina Classic. For some reason when I get to around 2700 RPMs my superchargers will surge kicking on and off u till I get past 3000 RPM’s it will not allow me to operate smoothly at 2700-3000 RPM’s than they will finally shut off, sometimes the the engines will not allow me to rev past 3000 RPMs when getting up on a cruise. I just had all my injector nozzles replaces, intercoolers cleaned and valves adjusted. Do you think this could be related to the turbos fouling and not creating enough boost? Your help will be much appreciated! Thanks, Kyle
The superchargers are controlled by the ECU and are turned on and off due to the load and boost pressure which is monitored by the ECU. If the engine will not go over 3k then it may be a dragging turbo (need to verify and compare to aervice lit during sea trial). It also could be a fuel restriction. I always start with freh filters then check for excessive fuel vacuum (again checking against service Literature)
Hi Ted, i have a question on this volvo penta aftercooler, my engine is an ad31p and i was wondering if the rear cover on the aftercooler which the tube that connects to the turbo can be removed and resealed? If it is removable what type of sealant is recommended to reseal rear cover when reassembling?
If it looks like the one in my video then NO it is glued on from the factory with fasteners. If it does not look like this one, send me the engine serial # and full model off the engine tag, port side below the cylinder head
Hi Ted! Indeed your help again every time a take my boat out I push fully speed only give me 8 nots,I have to wait 2 to 3 minutes for star going ,I have clean injectors,new turbo,, my mecânico tells me is injectors pump, I don’t know what to do . Tank you Ted ,Herb Silva iam azores
There are a various reason's, I would verify oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, also send out an oil sample to see if metal/bearing material is in the oil. There are oil control valves which may be the issue as well.
What exact engine is it? If it's a 31 non-EDC then the driver is the grey/Black wire coming from the alternator. Look for an AC value while running on the back of the tach and the alternator, if there is consistent ac voltage while it's running then the tachometer is bad
Hi Ted, this is Martin from Argentina. I have twin AD31P-A on my Cranchi boat, and as you recommend I installed boost pressure gauges on the intake manifold. Unfortunately, neither of them obtain more than 15 psi at WOT, but it's strange that up to 2000rpm the pressure is 0 🤨, how can i share my video with you? I’m painting on black all Rio de la Plata , hehe
Great job!!! Have you knowledge about Volvo Penta MD30A with a PTO running a Hydraulic Hydro Watt turbine 6K. Used for AC power on a sailboat. Thank you
Great information and video! Can you show how to remove injectors from a TAMD74P-A or similar. I am looking to remove mine and have them serviced. Thanks
Can do. It wont be for another few months. We have a TAMD74PA lab engine. Does the engine smoke or roll at idle? Just wondering why you want to "service" them...
hello, ted today I'm going to try the boat with the regenerated turbine. we hope well. I wanted to ask you......is it possible to upgrade the 130 hp tamd 31 and bring it to 150 hp? what do you change? only the injection pump? did you ever happen to do that? Thanks again Peter
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 I Ted. Mine it's a TAMD31D most known as TAMD31L-A i think, from 1994 (130hp). Full throttle just get 3300 rpm maximum. It's leaking oil from the bottom of the aftercooler, so i'm guessing turbo needs to be repaired or replaced. it's a 28 years old turbo anyway. Planing to do some maintenance on the aftercooler (cleaning and new seals) and replace the turbo. i got the pressures from the book, do i need to read it only at WOT or can it be at constant rpm? TAMD31L 1800 r/min --> 30 kPa (4.3 psi) 2500 r/min --> 80 kPa (11.6 psi) 3250 r/min --> - 3800 r/min --> 140 kPa (20.3 psi) Can´t reach the 3800rpm so i'll need to average the 3250rpm anyway. Loads of grey steam starting from the 2900 rpm. No problem reaching the 4250rpm in neutral. Thanks for your help so far. You channel is golden!
Hello, forgive my English, I am writing it from the Google translator. I would like if it were possible that you could explain the reason why all the Volvo Penta of the TAMD 31 TAMD 41 series discharge so much water vapor through the exhaust, which is often confused with white smoke, it is possible that it could be due to some failure in the exhaust elbow system, is there or do you know of a solution that can minimize this problem.
That is likely due to limited raw water flow out the exhaust. There are various reasons. Worn out raw water pump housing, clogged exhaust riser water passages.
Hi Ted we have the below problem with the kamd300 We have done the following cleand all heat exchangers and replaced the after cooler replaced all hoses and replaced injectors adjusted values and also services the injector pump and a new seal kit on the turbo once all was re attached and we went to srart the engine it cranks but don't start we also tried to start with the injectors out to see if they spay but they dont Any help would be greatly appreciated we also switched ecu from the other engine and the other engine started
Hi Ted, how's it going? I would like to ask you a question........in your opinion, if the insert (radiator) that is inside the intercooler no longer has aluminum fins, will the engine still run? hi thanks piero
Yes, it will run but if the air is not sufficiently cooled then the engine will lose power. If it's an electronic engine it will de-rate to a lower speed .
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 thanks ted, always very kind. no, it's not electronic but the four-cylinder of the series you show in the video.......tamd 31/ad31. yes, I imagined this. At this point I hope this is the problem. Thank you Greetings
Hi. I was looking to buy a boat with two tmad 41s. I was concerned with the amount of grey smoke coming out. The owner states that he runs the engines every week. Even after 10-15 mins there was still visible amount of smoke coming out and a strong smell of burnt oil. Should I be concerned? Thanks
Hello, I have a TAMD31L diesel engine with a new ignition switch but will NOT shut off when holding in off position. Starts just fine. After i cut the batter disconnect to it it seems to take another 5 to 10 minutes before it shuts the motor off. Could this be a bad relay in the ecm box or stop solenoid going bad?
Check the wire attached to the pump to see if it has 12 volts when you turn the key to the stop position. It may be disconnected. I believe There is also a mechancial stop lever on the pump you can shut it off with.
Hi Ted i have problem with Volvo penta D16C1 FMH i get fuel in the engine oil ، what do you think the reason for that problem. The engine it has600 runohurs only
Likely either a leak in one of the unit injector o'rings that seals it inside the head or a dripping injector. do a cylinder balance test with VODIA to see if any of the cylinders have a power loss @ idle and that is likely the cause.
Hello, I have two engines tamd 31 pa but. one of them when I'm fishing and I let it idle made a little blue-gray smoke and with the smell of diesel then when it accelerated it no longer has that smoke, the injection pump was checked, the injectors and the shifts changed and I no longer know what do you have any idea thank you very much for your video and your attention
Hi Ted I have twins Volvo Penta kamd 300 and both engines it's heating up after 3000 rpm I clean transmission oil coolers change impellers clean aftercoolers clean oil coolers clean heatexchangers clean exaus elbows and kep overheating both engines what you think it's the problem bottom it's clean seacock it's clean you think I have bad raw water pump
Great video! Im also an idiot who loosened the bolts on the back side of the aftercooler/turbo pipe and 3 out of 4 bolts snapped. Is it safe to fasten it up with epoxy that holds up to 120 degrees celsius continous? (I had to get it out to replace a gear box in a very tight engine room)
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Do i need something around between the bolts to make it airtight or is it enough with just the bolt holes? Having trouble with the turbo not kicking in...
@@henrikaasen579 I believe where the housing is epoxied together it is a permanent seal, so filling in any broken bolt holes should do the trick. It sounds like you may have a dragging turbo that needs repair.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Yeah, but i had the lid off, so then the seal is broken. Do i need to take it off and apply som sealant? Yeah ill check out the turbo 👍 I get right around 2400 rpm, and after that its black smoke and no more rpm. A friend with the same boat, propeller and gear gets around 3600 rpm at max so somethings off.. Thanks for the answers 👨🔧🙇♂️
HELLO TED, TESTED THE TURBINE PRESSURE WE DISCOVERED THAT IT HAS NOT EVEN 0.2 BAR. THIS MORNING THE BLACK SMOKE WAS EVIDENT FROM THE EXHAUST. THANKS WE UPDATE PIERO
@@chichibio62 You need a manometer which is installed into the exhaust as close to the outlet of the turbocharger as possible (the hose that attaches to the riser will suffice. Then run the boat full throttle to see if it exceeds the max value in the manual
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 THANKS TED, THE TURBINE ON THE EXHAUST SIDE (LET'S SAY THE "HOT" PART) IS VERY DAMAGED, I'M REPLACING IT. KEEPING YOU UPDATED. THEN I WOULD LIKE TWO PRESSURE GAUGES ON THE DASHBOARD SO THAT I ALWAYS HAVE THE PRESSURE UNDER CONTROL HELLO PIERO
Hi Ted, i have a tamd 31 l a and what happens at just a slow cruise it runs fine at about 160 degrees then if i open up the throttle to just about full in about 15 seconds the temperature buzzer comes on but my temperature reads the same as cruising, if it does rise its that small i cant see any difference, i would love an answer or help where to look. Thanks Paul
Best to run the boat and have someone take infrared temp readings to determine if the temp is actually rising to the warning level. What is the full model of the engine? I want to esure its not an EDC version.
Hi again, the tag on the engine has AQAD 31 A then next to that it has 867967 then underneath it has 2203102485. To me it just seems that the buzzer comes on too quickly from low revs to higher revs, and at low revs it will run all day. I have new belts and had the fresh water pump serviced by an authorised by a agent here in New Zealand. Thanks Paul
@@paulgibbs478 OK so it's a sterndrive. Have you changed the impeller/rebuilt the raw water pump? I would start there. It is a diesel so it's a giant air pump when at low rpm and when asked makes more power and more exhaust heat.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 hi Ted, the impeller has been rebuilt, but you mentioned the exhaust could it be that, is there a heat sensor on the exhaust, another thing the boat was sitting for about 14 years without use would it be worth changing the thermostats
@@paulgibbs478 it may be the exhaust riser is corroded and clogged. It likely needs changing. And during an antifreeze change I also would change the thermostate
Hi Ted, Greetings from Berlin, Germany. Thank you for your informative videos, which are a great help to us laypeople. Maybe you also have a solution for my problem. I filled up with GTL diesel for the first time three weeks ago ( Volvo Penta TMD31L-A, HS1A gearbox). If I stop the engine after an hour of driving and start it again after another hour everything is normal at first, but when I then put the engine into gear the rpm are limited to 1000 rpm. After another 10 minutes, the speed suddenly increases and the engine reacts normally. I think that the rpm limitation comes from the Smoke Limiter, but I can't find a solution anywhere to solve the problem and no instructions for disassembling the device. I would be grateful for a suggestion. Thank you and best regards from Germany Paul Depprich
GTL has a couple of disadvantages, one is I believe it does not have the lubricate of regular diesel and 2 it has a lower energy energy coefficient than regular diesel. I would try going back to regular diesel if possible. The issue sounds like an intermittentl hanging governor. And that is inside the injection pump.
Hi Ted, thank you for your quick answer. I`ll burn my GTL and go back to regular diesel. No more new fuel for old engines. Thank you so much. Paul Depprich
Hello Ted, a supplement to my problem with the TMD31. There is a grub screw in the lid of the Smoke Limiter. I screwed it in 9 mm. It pushes the diaphragm down, simulating high boost pressure, thus opening the fuel flow to the injection pump. Everything now runs normally. Best regards from Potsdam Germany Paul Depprich
Hi Ted I want to know D12-615 ENGINE SO WE CAN START ENGINE WITHOUT MS UNIT AND EDC DID U HAVE ANY IDEA TO CONNETION PLZ CAN U EXPLAIN OR SHOW TOTHANX OF LOTS
I hope this answers your question. To bypass the MS unit, just unplug the break out harness and run the edc harness from the engine directly to a single station. Then, recalibrate the controls.
@@syedpeeran3133 are you trying to start the engine out of the boat? You will need a key switch harness and the edc harness with a control and push button panel.
My dad has a boat with the ecd and the starboard starts up the port will not crank does the oil sensor if bad not let it crank up if so how do I test it and where is it located? Please help this is just been and anchor of a boat
If the control panel lights up when you turn on the key does the diagnostic light blink ("D" button)? If not it may be the starter relay has failed. If the D button light is flashing you can try erasing any codes by holding in the D button then turning the key on for 6-10 seconds. Release the button, shut the key off for ten seconds and then try starting the engine again.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 When we turn port key on we hold the key button in until the light turns red then we try to start just clicks and the amp gauge goes from 12 to 0 but can we jump straight to starter from battery or will this be a problem with the electronic side of thing to see if starter solenoid is bad? No light in when we turn key on the buzzer sounds after we leave key on a few seconds then the oils flashes on the display
No, as a technical degree we have lecture and labs, we are using Zoom for some lectures currently, I hooe to be back to 100% in class after this summer.
hi, ted, how are you? maybe i found the culprit.... the hollow bolt to which the silran tube that goes to the LDA of the injection pump is connected was clogged. I have to do a sea trial and I hope it's resolved. I will keep you informed. I prefer to write you here because it could help other users. bye thank you
Hi! Please help me out,my name is Herb I bought old boat with volvo penta AQDA31A every time I start back smoking,even wend he running hi speed smoke I asked to my mechanic why e smoke,e sai this motor is to old, I pushed de acceleration to limite I hand to wait 2 minutes to get full acceleration ,we put new turbo e dint help ,motor don’t burn oil has 1.300 hours, he also drinks some cooling,please give some tips. Thank you Herb Silva I am in azores, no good mechanics
Hello! Sir: Good morning! I have problem with ECM from our volvo penta generator TAD1640GE , we've buy new one from china but we' miss look that our frequency here should be 60Hz and the new ECM was programed at 50Hz, so our problem would be to change the parameter from 1500rpm to 1800rpm to attain 60Hz system. Now we buy VODIA programmer from china again but our problem was that we cannot access the parameter programming, only monitoring. How could you comment regarding this matter? Thank you.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Hi! Sir, Thank you for your reply. Where could we find this authorized dealers do we have a list or could you recommend some? I'm fun watching your tutorial videos about ECM and I learn something, my place is Philippines, very far away from U.S. and thanks for your channel seriously helps me a lot.
hi ted. I'll update you but the news is not good. after spending a fortune I decided to disembark the engine because it just wasn't right. I gave it to a mechanic far from my city in exchange for another engine. he opened it and the crankshaft had been rectified more than necessary and then not having the right bushings I don't know what they invented..... science fiction stories.... greetings piero
HELLO TED HOW ARE YOU? I HOPE SO. AS PROMISED I WILL KEEP YOU INFORMED AFTER REVISING THE TURBO THE PROBLEM WAS THE SAME. I ARRANGED WITH MY MECHANIC TO HAVE THE INJECTION PUMP DISASSEMBLED. IN FACT, THE INJECTION PUMP IS ALL RUSTY. A DISASTER. VERY PROBABLY THE OLD OWNER OF THE ENGINE HAD TAKEN SEA WATER AND HAD NOT DONE EVERYTHING THAT NEEDED TO BE DONE. I HOPE TO RESOLVE. THANKS BYE
HELLO TED HOW ARE YOU? AFTER REPLACING THE TURBINE, REVISING THE INTERCOOLER, BUYING AND REVISING THE INJECTION PUMP AND CLEANING THE INJECTORS ARE DISASSEMBLED OF THE TESTED. I DID A BUSH TEST OF THE PISTONS AND NUMBER 3 HAS ONLY 18.....THE OTHERS 26......I THINK THE AIR IN THE AIR MANIFOLD IS GOING OUT OF THAT PISTON....MAYBE ONE VALVE? WE WILL SEE. SEND ME AN ASS AT THE WHALE (ITALIAN SAYING) GREETINGS TO ALL
Hi Ted John here from Sydney iv a pair of volvo tam 41 straight six turbo diesel engines in my boat a searay 310 sundancer 1989 I'm about to do a few jobs on my engines I am mechanically minded self taut over the years I had a engine scary moment last year what's your thought on this issue my story my boat was on my birth in the marina I shut the electrics off when I had been out on the boat a few hrs earlier and went home around 11 pm in the evening and in the dark I received a phone call from the boat yard saying my boat was sinking I quickly got out of bed and rushed over to the boat where the back end was well down and the bow was well up in the air jumped on board lifted the engine lid the water level was about to submerge the self starters why haven't my bilge pumps kicked in that was because I'd turned off my electrics for safety and the previous owner had done d I y wiring and connected the bilge pump to my main switch box not my domestic orgsilery battery while I was panicking both my engines started up no keys in ignition then started to high rev crazey I'd only just baught this boat a week earlier so I was just getting to get to know about the working of everything on board how can diesel engines just start up on there own ? Well they can how ? My engines have a permanent live feed from the batteries at all times as the water went over the self starters I guess perhaps arking the solenoids bridged together and started both my engine's. My q to you is does all diesel engines have a standard permanent live even when you have turned your main fuze box off ? And what is the reason for this in a boat ? Enybody else had a simular problem like mine.by the way Ted we all love your videos your very good in sharing your engine tips with us all kind regards John .
Does the after cooler use seawater? I seem to have an issue where my 31a engine smokes white ish smoke even iff its warmed up So do i have a leak in this intercooler or?
