Our Volvo Penta raw water pump gets a complete reverse engineered rebuild and this is how we did it in almost real time. This episode is part two, we recommend you watch Episode 17 first which is part one.
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I followed you video booth 17 and 18. step by step and it worked perfectly, my waterpump is not leaking anymore. Thanks.
Quite the contrary to your closing line- a very interesting upload ! You made it look so simple and I learned something new, so thank you for taking the time to make the two videos ! Looking forward to see you here again on RU-vid soon.
Hi Zero_to_sailor, thank you for your comment. Strange but I started making these videos as a means of remembering what I done and how I did it (post stroke memory). It then got me to thinking this knowledge may be useful to others and there you have it, the birth of our channel. Glad you enjoyed!
Hi Fernando, thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. It gives us the encouragement to make another episode. Hope you get some good sailing this year!
Excellent video - alowed a much quicker rebuild than if i iddnt have it as a guide, and there was a lot less swearing! If you ever find yourself sailing the Clyde or Scottish West Coast I owe you a beer.
I wouldn't heat the bearings - but I would the outer brass housing. For the shaft I would plastic bag it and leave that in the freezer for a couple of hours to make fitting the bearings a little easier. I would be very careful when driving the bearings to avoid putting too much strain or hammering the inner race - though with this design that's not easy to do.
These measurements were crucial for my pump today, thanks for the video! Until both bearings were at the exact spot that you stated, pump was dripping even with the new sealings...
Nice job on the pump, I have done the same task on my old Ford's in the past, not with the pump job but more with wheel bearings I have had success with freezing the shaft before inserting through the center of the bearing, I suppose its the same really
Hi MrCrabbing, thanks for posting your comment. I made this video without a workshop manual so was unsure whether heating/ cooling materials was good advice. Good to know it works for you. Thanks for watching!
Far from boring for those of us who have 30 year old boats and do the hard work in order to stay safe when the engine matters! The simple question is whether I should contemplate dissassembly/assembly of the bearings without a bearing puller? I have seen it suggested that using a hammer with a suitable block of wood is an option, shrinking the shaft in the freezer if necessary(!) And are the necessary clearances listed somewhere? I trust you have recovered from your stroke, so that diy owners can long expect to benefit from your wisdom.
Hi aurigacap, thanks for asking about my stroke recovery. I still struggle with many aspects of the stroke especially memory, hence the reason for making these videos. If others benefit, then even better! The puller wasn't expensive and I would rather use it than subject the bearings to shock loads with a hammer. The clearance measurements were recorded when stripping down and rebuilt accordingly. If you have a workshop manual with accurate dimensions please share with this post!
@@sailingwithus5743 I'm glad to hear you are at least recovering. I struggle with the memory of having done this before, but recall not much of it. So I'm pleased to have found the video. I record the photo sequence of jobs like this on my phone, so I could remember. My phone is under 4 metres of water along with my memory prompts.
I love your videos. I have a well functioning 2002, but it is nice to learn more about it from these great videos. One question: Why not use the wingscrews on the impeller housing?
Hi Erik Riis, good question. One of the wing nuts was missing so I just wanted all screws to be the same to get an equal feel they were torqued equally. In short I didn't have a spare wing nut in my odd and sods box. Thanks for watching, Rob.
Great video! Do you recall whether the three bolts used to install the water pump are equal in length? I need to replace the corroded mounting bolts on my engine. The parts diagram on the Volvo website lists two different part numbers (and lengths) for the bolts. I am trying to determine whether I need the 20 mm bolts or the 65 mm bolts for my Penta 2002. Thanks!
Hi Lewis, from memory the rubber impeller touches both the back plate and front cover to form a seal. Don't forget the paper gasket and plenty of Volvo Penta lubricant. Good luck!
I agree with zero-to-sailor. Frankly I can't get enough of vids like yours. Thanks for doing them. Tell me though, do you use genuine Volvo parts or aftermarket? I'm torn....I'm also going to be considerably poorer if I complete my re-build of my 2003 if I use genuine parts.
Hi Tim I didn't quite know how to present this type of 'how to' video. Don't know where you are in the world but I love watching a programme called 'The Repair Shop'. There must be thousands of these Johnson pumps all over the world, ours is 30 years old and to coin a 'repair shop' phrase "its worth fixing a family heirloom!". To answer your question, I tend to use genuine parts, however on this occasion, it was what the chandlery had in stock. Good luck with your rebuild.
Hi Luba Kaczmar, before I answer your question are you referring to fuel injectors? If you are it's possible to get them cleaned and reset (calibrated) however it requires specialist equipment. There's also copper washers that need replacing in the cylinder head too. If you're not able to replace the internal parts of the water pump a complete new unit is available however here in the UK it's about £300- Ouch! Thanks for watching. Rob
@@lubakaczmar3198 Can I point you in the direction of 'Sailing Britaly'. Chris has a 2003 Volvo penta however Think he did the injectors on a 2002 a few years ago. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Good luck , Rob
Could anyone explain just where that small O ring goes and what is it for? I didn't get a new one in the kit and on the parts diagram it's as though it goes in the middle of the seals but there's plastic spacer thing in there too so which side does it go ?
Hi Stephen, you're correct the O ring goes between the seals on the shaft. I believe it acts like a drip ring so the water or oil will drip through the slots on the plastic spacer. Hope this helps?
@@sailingwithus5743 Thanks , I've had a nightmare rebuilding mine, the bearings were extremely tight and were damaged fitting them so contacted the supplier who said they had had a few problems and sent another shaft and bearings but to be honest it's not right. The first shaft was scored so the seals would be useless too. Now i've done it again and the impeller is about 1.5mm proud of the pump body ...I really wish I'd spent the money and got a complete new pump. I did use a freezer and oven but didn't help at all , the noise of those bearings being pressed in will haunt me forever
yes, the small O ring that is loose on the shaft goes between the 2 seals; it is there to deflect any water leak drip away from the oil-side seal. In the video at 2 minutes 20 seconds, it is not clear but it looks to me like it is put in the wrong place. I didn't get that O ring in my rebuild kit so I used the old one which I found between the 2 old seals
One can heat the bearings on top of and incandescent light bulb if one can still find one (Dollar Store, my case) while the shaft can be cooled in the freezer
