Best video I've found on this thus far. I put a new crate engine in my 98. I stuck a new distributor on it since the previous owner broke the tabs off that hold the cap to the distributor. It ran pretty good for the summer just lining the timing mark with #1. Now that it's cold, she don't like to start easy. I'm going to look into this, I need a scan tool anyhow so this looks like it would do what I need.
ih1206 have you swapped the OEM spider assembly for a MPFI yet? Also what kind of distributor did you drop in? I've been left stranded twice because of cheap distributor caps/rotors that came with my aftermarket billet aluminum distributor.. Mine does the same thing now that it's cold, these vortec motors are great but SUPER sensitive..
willis Kaufman no I haven't messed with the spider assembly. My distributor is just an O'Reillys special. Like I said, I fought with it when I first dropped it in, but I got it to run pretty smooth over the summer. I was doing more research yesterday and read that it might be necessary to do a CASE relearn to get the computer to jive with it. Not sure on that yet but check out this link on pages 3 and 4. www.corvetteforum.com/forums/attachments/c5-tech/47730045d1374054842-best-most-versatile-tuner-tool-for-crank-sensor-relearn-tech-tips.pdf
ih1206 yes it does need a relearn procedure, but there is more than one way to skin a vortec. Personally I've ran it with and without relearn, not much difference.. But after you set timing, there is a process of removing the battery cable for 30 mins and hooking it up again. then when you start the car you rev it up immediately, and continue the relearn by driving the vehicle under 45mph slowly giving on and off throttle. it's confusing to explain, but it's possible to relearn at home. I'll try to find a link explaining it better...
willis Kaufman I seen there was a way to relearn it manually by driving at different speeds and such. That might be the route I go once I'm sure the timing is at 0.
Hey willy I have scanXL running while engine is running in the same configuration you have but the gauge doesn't move at all? I even pressed start monitoring live data. Is there something I'm missing?
Are you over 1,000 rpm when you are doing this? The sensors won't pickup a accurate signal until you are over 1000 rpm. Also Is the correct parameter selected and actively playing the data live? I had a hard time with this at first. I ended up contacting scantool.net when I couldn't figure it out initially. They walked me through the process and it's super easy once you have done a couple of times
Do the ScanXL with GM Enhanced software already include the meters you show on the video, or do you have to create them from the software from the available PIDS?
Carl Lozada they include several different gauges, but you have to set the parameters. basically they are blank gauges, and you select the pid, and range of the gauge. youtube has a few good videos on scantool.net software and hiw to use it..
Only time I used the crank/block marks was when I needed to find TDC (top dead center) for the distributor installation. That's the only thing the marks are used for on a vortec 5.7 from 1996 and up. The actual timing is computer controlled, but can be adjusted physically through the distributor. You just need a computer to watch the numbers..
I know this is a old video but I'm going to ask anyway. I have a 1988 GMC Sierra with a 350 vortec swapped it has a Accel HEI distributer with eldedbrock carburator. Headers and pro comp intake. I'm assuming you set the timing with a timing light since its basically set up like a old school 350 ignition system now? Is this correct or no?
You would be correct. The HEI distributor will always have timing set with a timing light. There are many guys who run hot rods with vortec engines with and a nice HEI distributor with a carb. NOW you need to make sure your HEI is meshing with your gear well and the intake height is correct to your HEI, that's #1. If everything is physically correct than bring motor to TDC and follow normal small Chevy procedure for installing a distributor on the compression stroke. I like the carbed vortec idea! eliminates the entire nonsense of the fuel injection that the the 96-2000 vortec engine came equipped with. The spider assembly under the intake hides the fuel regulator and any possible damaged injector. I hope everything goes well on your motor!!
Thanks for the video man, Quick question.. where is that graph for that?? Did you make it? Ive had ScanXl Pro since 2011 and im still learning how to use it lol
BentWrench yes I did make these. there are many graphs available with scan XL. it takes a while to figure out how to make a gauge, and then apply a parameter to the gauge. It takes about a full day to make a custom dashboard. but you can always save it to your computer, and pull it up when you open scan XL. I would start with making one gauge, and see if you can save it.. my laptop is broken so i can't guide you through step by step right now. it is a process that I can vouch for...
Cool man, ive only ever used data view to do the job but the gauge looks way better and easier to read, i kinda made up a halfass one today.. it will take a little time to get all the bells and whistles on the gauge. Thanks for giving me the inch man!
@willyjilly9684 it's all original with the throttle body. The 96 has a brand new 305 we just put in and the scanner is showing a cam problem. It runs but misses. I'm assuming it's timing.
@@MattFaulkner-y4d ok gotcha! The 89 TBI system uses a more traditional distributor system with timing that can be set with a timing light. where the 96 vortec uses a strictly computer controlled system where there is no controlling the ignition timing but a correlation between the crank and cam. The vortec 96 requires a scan tool or laptop capable of viewing GM parameters. I believe it’s called crankshaft offset retard in the scan tool menu. I’ve heard of people using the cheap BAFX scanners on Amazon and tapping into the GM parameters. I’ve had mixed results with these scanners but I’m sure there is a cheaper way than the snap on scanner or buying a laptop with software. There is actually a few videos showing how to get the distributor lined up good enough to keep the check engine light off until you can get a scan tool capable of viewing the crankshaft offset pid. Hope this helps and have a wonderful weekend 🇺🇸
Great Video !!! What if we have a different cam, for example the LT4 Hotcam installed straight in , should we set it at 0 degrees as well on the timing? Thanks!
@@willyjilly9684 no worries, I just downloaded that "car gauge pro" app that was suggested by the feller in the comments. I have a cord like yours, I'm Assuming that's the obdlink sx in your vid I have a way to hook it up to my phone but not sure yet if it will work or if it has to be a bluetooth one. Mad appreciate both of yall btw!
When I was a tooth off it ran like garbage and threw a multiple misfire code. Truck would would barely start. I knew I was off adjusted it, and it ran like normal but timing was still off.. The -15 your at isn't too extreme mine was -19 and it ran ok around town, but highway would miss and you could feel it then throw a code. when I first found a laptop and was able to see what was actually going on I couldn't believe I was at -19 and still driving ok on city streets. More than likely you need adjust timing unless your for certain your more or less a tooth off, but I can't really see that if your not throwing codes and the vehicle runs like complete ass. Adjust the timing by twisting the distributor above 1,100 rpms and watch the timing via laptop/scantool. If you are still throwing codes or run like ass still than yeah probably a tooth off. Here is how I bump a tooth over. bringing the #1 piston up on the compression stroke and perfectly line the balancer notch up with the tiny pointer mark on the timing cover. When you drop the distributor in it should be pointing towards #1 cylinder. I found that using the distributor as a oil pump drive tool to twist the oil pump drive shaft far enough clockwise to make it to the next tooth. use the distributor in place of a screwdriver basically. for some reason it's the easiest way to bump EXACTLY one tooth over. Unlike the traditional small chevy where you use a screwdriver to move the oil pump drive in position. Unfortunately you can only do it clockwise so if you miss that tooth you gotta make a full rotation to make it back around. Hope this helps stay well be safe!
@@Z71__ mine felt low on the power but not horrible. P1345 is definitely the timing and that's what mine would throw on the interstate at -19. Check that first before pulling the distributor back out.
Hey man me and my buddy are stumped. We set the distributor in correctly. Pointed directly at cylinder 1. Started it up, took it up to 1200 rpm and it was reading -17. We turned it as far as it would go and now it’s reading -8. If we turn it a tooth it will go to +23 and if turned all the way it’ll come down to +7. It refuses to go to 0. Any advice?
@Brian Poarch I went through a bunch of forums to make sure a steer you in the right direction. On the 4X4 forum some guys are saying faulty distributor for the same problem your having and others said a relearn process with a specific scan tool but I never did that so I would swap out the distributor first if that's possible and see what the results are. One guy was talking about having the timing chain jump but I have never heard of that happening with these vortec motors. The chain usually snaps. Old 305's from the 80's with the plastic timing gear coating would crack and skip teeth but not the newer stuff so I'm not sure if timing chain would be your issue unless that's something that has been replaced if so recheck that. Now if it is a used distributor make sure the teeth on the gear are perfect. That can play a role Because the cam gear is a harder metal than the distributor gear and will wear out over time which will give a false reading. Also make sure your TDC on the compression stroke, being 180 degrees out can cause this same problem. Last thing: When I was one tooth off it ran rough and threw a engine code instantly for multiple miss fire. I hope this helps in some way and you get it sorted out. Let me know if I can help in any way I'll be happy to respond. Have a blessed evening 💙✌
We literally just figured it out. My buddy and I took some wrong advice and had it in wrong. It was a tooth off. It still ran fine but felt like it had less power. I greatly appreciate the advice. Have a good evening man
As long as you bought the GM performance add on sure it will do the exact same thing it did back when I made this video and I believe it can do more now. They usually only add things, or update the system itself. Nothing as far as I can tell had changed to dramatically. I will say on the MX adapter it can be iffy with some devices so don't be too upset if it doesnt work with your phone or whatever right off the bat. It's a really decent product from what I've seen so far...
@@joshuas10 the gm performance add on is software that you add to your scanxl software package. The MX+ is just a cordless scan tool, the hardwire version OBD link is $29-$39 and transmits the same info via a laptop or something similar. Really your just paying for the software, the obd links are just connecting the laptop or cell phone to the vehicle. .
I had a collapsed lifter so I had the intake off. I marked the positioning of the distributor and started with the engine at TDC to provide a starting point when I was done, I bought a cheap OBD Scan tool on line just to check or set my timing. I am trying to set the initial timing at zero but I guess its electronically advanced because I cant get it to move near zero.
P0341 - GM Type: Powertrain - Ignition System or Misfire - ISO/SAE Controlled Description: CMP Sensor Performance Conditions Cause: Engine running, then the PCM detected the ratio of fuel control CKP pulses to CMP pulses did not equal 6:1, condition met 10 times during any ignition cycle (this fault may be intermittent)
I thought the same thing when i first tried with a scan tool unfortunately the ignition advance is not the same as camshaft retard timing. I tried twisting the cap every which way while reading the ignition advance and the numbers dont change at all.
3093Andrew I haven't tried any apps yet accept what scan tool.net offers... but I have heard of people tapping into GM parameters through Android phone or similar apps. please let me know what you find out, very curious myself!!👍
Alright will do! And the app I bought is through the same people who make scanxl its just the phone version and then you can but the extended parameters for whatever vehicle you have. I'll know in the next week or so when I get the Bluetooth OBD2
Hey @willy_Jilly Wanted to thank you for your efforts and share with you and your viewers that the current ScanXL program does not have the CKP/CMP PID scripts in any way shape or form. Either PPE removed or disabled it due to possible liability issues from GM. When I contacted Paul the owner of PPE. He initially stated his program could not do what you showed to us, then I showed him your video, he flip/flopped then said it could be done just not accurately. Okay, I could live with that for $230. But for the life of me I could not find the needed PID scripts, they are simply not there. I asked PPE again, now he is saying maybe my 1998 GMC 5.0L C1500 may not have it. WTD??? As for the alternate guy with the wireless OBD2, yeah N/A. So to your viewers, PSA, please verify with Palmer Performance Engineering about the ScanXL before you buy. So I will do the GHETTO adjustment from 10+ years ago by an Aircraft Engineer, Opening of OBSERVATION WINDOWS on the Dizzy and visually correcting the Camshaft Retard, Only $15.00 sacrificial dizzy and new SST in my tool box to share with my GM buddies
What’s up man I know this video old but can you see the live feed of say cylinder misfires etc etc from the scanner your using? I’m searching for something that will help me with what you showed and cylinder
Scan xl will read live cylinder misfires. But a lot of other scanners can do the same for cheaper. I would look around as technology has changed since i made this video..
No, if it does move the tab that holds the distributor in place is either bent or it's a new tab that doesn't fit the same as the old one. I've had luck just using the old one opposed to new. bending it with a hammer and 2x4 by hand on the ground, or vise with pliers works even better! New tabs for vortec suck in my opinion. I like OEM...
No, if it does move the tab that holds the distributor in place is either bent or it's a new tab that doesn't fit the same as the old one. I've had luck just using the old one opposed to new. bending it with a hammer and 2x4 by hand on the ground, or vise with pliers works even better! New tabs for vortec suck in my opinion. I like OEM...
Yes from what I have experienced it does, there is a few videos showing the 6 and 8 markings on the distributor cap for initial installation to get as close to perfect when you do start it and set timing aka crankshaft to camshaft correlation also known as crankshaft retard in the PID menu
@@therealblakekirkham5701 they come that way with aftermarket distributors the factory ones don’t have that. The fork is designed to “lock” the timing in but it’s never accurate. Big fail on the aftermarket industry. I ended running my original distributor hold down and it is designed like a traditional SBC hold down so that would work perfectly fine.
Thanks for this excellent video! But I how did you manage to loosen the distributor hold down bolt???? I have a 1998 Silverado 5.7 Vortec and can't even see this bolt with all the hoses and wire harnesses in the way... any tips or tricks, please????
I understand your pain as leaning into these trucks is difficult, especially when your looking for something that's hidden. If you pull your plug wires from the distributor (mark them first so you can put them in the original position), you will see the hold down plate that applies pressure to the distributor base to hold it down (via 14mm bolt that threads into the intake manifold towards the backside near the base of the distributor). your feeling for a 9/16 size bolt head if you can't see it after removing the plug wires from the distributor cap. it's really easy once you can see what your feeling for. 👍👍👍
I understand your pain as leaning into these trucks is difficult, especially when your looking for something that's hidden. If you pull your plug wires from the distributor (mark them first so you can put them in the original position), you will see the hold down plate that applies pressure to the distributor base to hold it down (via 14mm bolt that threads into the intake manifold towards the backside near the base of the distributor). your feeling for a 9/16 size bolt head if you can't see it after removing the plug wires from the distributor cap. it's really easy once you can see what your feeling for. 👍👍👍
I used a wrench to get mine loose. was not on hard, BUT if it is. try using a small 1/4 head ratchet (preferably one you don't mind messing up), and put a extension with a socket (that fits the size of the end of the ratchet) to build a breaker bar that's small enough to fit. try to fit this in there to break your bolt Free. rest will be cake👌
i have the same scan tool program and i was able to create the same gauge and make pids (including the CR) and also connect it to my 97 yukon 5.7 vortec but i can't get the actual gauge to move when it connects.... any advise?
Luis Lopez make sure your well above 1000 rpms, make sure the camshaft position sensor is functioning properly not water damaged under the distributor cap, make sure your pressing the green play button for live data before viewing your custom gauge. Few other things Check data link connector, and obd port as well. Make sure 100% your reading the correct gm parameter which is confusing to find in the first place...
the thing i cannot get to work is the custom gauge, the actual dash xl does open and works to check the check engine and the rpm but i cant figure out how to get it where you have it on your video 25 sec where the custom gauge actually moves when you start the vehicle
hey willy jilly I ordered the scantool for my 97 k1500 with the 5.7l scantool says cmp offset is not a supported pid's any info would help to get this to read proper plz.
daniel heath and your using the OBD link SX scantool adapter, and laptop? I've had problems using the wireless adapters not being able to work with some pids. I also fogot to enter the scanxl and gm add on to the license key. If you have that figured out make sure you OBD port doesn't have bent or coroded prongs as that can cause pid and information as well. Try plugging into vehicle, key on the ignition, connect the scantool, add the vehicle to the scantool, then you can search for cmp,add it to data logging pids and press play. For the first initial use i do a deep search to validate all GM powertrain pids, and then data log the one i want by scrolling down the list and clicking on it. You should have no problems if your using a decent laptop, and proper link. The wireless stuff not so much on the reliability.
Great video but I am confused about moving the distributor on my 98 5.7 vortec. My distributor is not adjustable unless hold down bolt is completely removed which would make it impossible to lock down again if I had to move it even the slightest bit. Thanks and please advise.
Frank Macchione no, you don't have to remove the entire bolt. just loosen it up enough to remove pressure on the hold down tab. if your distributor housing doesn't move after loosening up the hold down bolt, than most likely the distributor gasket is frozen to the intake manifold. you have to be careful as the distributor housing is plastic, and even a rubber mallet will crack them if you hit em wrong. best bet would be to mark the distributor in coorelation to the intake in multiple places so if you do hit it out of timing you can adjust back where it should. hope everything goes well, let me know if you get it loose.
Thanks for getting back to me but the hold down bracket locks the distributor in one location. This is a 2 month old billet style and the original one that was replaced was the GM plastic one that had the tabs broken but it also was locked in one position only. I can only move it if I take the bolt out but then I cant line it up the bolt because that damn hold down clamp cant be moved to another position.
Frank Macchione ahhhhh you have the aftermarket distributor with non adjustable hold down. I totally feel your pain. Yeah I tried that too, my timing was out 20 degrees because I used the "special hold down" that came with the distributor I bought. That hold down is NOT synced to the distributor timing. I thought the same thing as you, drop in the new distributor and the new locking hold down will lock the timing in place where it should be. NOPE! I was furious when I discovered how far my timing was out by using the locking hold down. Replaced it with the OEM hold down and set timing.
SX scanner is what you need to connect from laptop to vehicle. Here's additional info: If you have a laptop with a USB port and atleast windows 7 for decent fast time streaming your good to go! What you need is a USB cable on one end, and a OBD male fitting on the other end. Amazon sells them for $29.99 or scantool.net has them directly for the exact same price. They sell a lot of product on amazon.com so I tell most people to check Amazon...
Yes! all distributor based vortec motors require a scan tool to properly set timing. I've tried the "lining up" of the 8 and 6 marks that come on distributor housings, but it was always out 9 or more degrees. Now if your off a tooth on the distributor it will run awfully, and not always throw a code. scan XL with a GM add on is the most software you will need, and also the cheapest route to go. most shops want $150-200 just to twist the distributor. it cost $295 for all the stuff I needed from ScanTool.net, and I have a scan tool for life. it does require a laptop, but they also have wireless Bluetooth OBD 2 plug in devices that allow you to view data from a phone or tablet.. if you need any advice please ask.. 👍
I’ve timed many vortex’s without any computer and it’s always within 2 degrees of spec I have no computer so customers carry them to shop that has the computer
Honestly this video was made a long time ago and a simple android phone and a free app can view this information. No need sending them to a shop when you could do it for free right there on your phone .
Couldn't find the comment you just posted, but it is kinda tricky to setup pids at first. You need to make sure ALL gm pids are on (usually it only shows the most basic until you go into the pids and specifically check mark the pid you want to graph). The gm codes are highlighted green if I recall. I didnt let the vehicle run all the codes, just the one specifically for camshaft retard. Actually I have typed in camshaft retard or CMP under the pid menu and it comes up. Now once the pid is check marked you have to view the data live by pressing record or live play. From there you can make custom bar graphs (Like I did in my video), or you can just view it live as long as the pid is check marked. I dont have a laptop anymore so I'm not sure how I can make a video showing firsthand how to do it, and I apologize for that because that would really help people.
Tyler Hall are you looking at the timing advance or CKP/CMP?? Just curious so i can maybe help. Timing advance won't help with setting the timing and unfortunately the off the shelf scan tools can only read timing advance.
A bad crank sensor or bad cam sensor will cause such problems from my experience.. I would test each sensor, and diagnose from there. I've experienced ridiculous readings from bad sensors. A cheap volt meter will give you what you need as far as cam sensor and crank sensor output. I would do that first if readings are crazy..
Kyle Shalley this is the problem with vortec engines is that you have to check every parameter and even when you do, it's not always 100%. I've heard many cases of a bad crank or cam sensor with no code read. but that may not be your case at all I just thought I'd throw my $.02 in at the matter. I personally hate the spider assembly fuel injection, and I know that is a problem causer along with the crap Intake manifold gasket
I completely understand I was just pissed when I hooked everything up and my timing gauge was all over the place and my temp gauge was jumping from 190 to 315 back down driving me nuts
Kyle Shalley ECT sensor can cause all kinds of problems as well with these vortec motors. Mine was all over the place on the temp too.., turned out the ground wire on the water outlet housing stud was shorted out and needed to be soldered. Another common vortec issue as well.. 👍
Hey guys. I don't have any tools so I just adjusted my timing as best as I felt was good holding rpm at 1k. Did not disconnect battery like I just found out. Two days later my truck was running bad. Back fires and all. I guess I know what I gotta do now.
Ismael Carrillo look for the videos on RU-vid how to set timing on a vortec without a scanner. Many people have been successful lining up the notch on the distributor cap with the 6 or 8 stamp on the distributor itself while at top dead center. I don't explain it very well, but there are some great videos that do a helpful job on RU-vid.
I have scanxl for my 97 but I can't find any info on setting up the pid to set the timing can you please instruct me to set up like yours or point me somewhere that can tell me
Richard Moore personally it was difficult at first to find pid and setup. I had to have scantool.net walk me through it the first time. Really its best to select CMP pid from the pid list and just view the data live by hitting the green play button at the bottom for live data. It wont display information until you are recording or playing live.
willy Jilly thank you i think I've got it figured out I have built a new motor for my truck used to the old hei and having a shop with the scan tools and all that but having to figure it out this way is a little harder fuel injection is a new thing for me and I want to make sure it's perfect.... how do you get your distributor to turn mine doesn't
D.L.P It will work with certain software but not all. Also certain parameters will not display, and it won't tap into GM parameters without a lot of headache. I personally don't like the elm scanners. Walmart .com has windows capable 3 in 1 tablets that cost $70 and work with the scantool.net software perfectly! I know that's more expensive than most elm scanners will cost, but it will 💯 work though.
Albert Goatcher yes. There is a method where you bring the number one cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke, and line up the rotor with the 6 or 8 mark on the distributor (can't remember been a while). there are some really good videos of guys explaining it, and show how to do it with no expensive tools.
ScanTool software is as follows 1. OBD SX link 2. Scan XL 3. Scan XL GM add on When you order ScanTool software they send you a key to type in once you have paid for it via email. Very simple to install works with Windows operating systems of most kinds. The team at scantool.net will guide you in any was as they have worked with people online for years. I'm ordering a OBD Android device soon so I can monitor my car(s) via phone. Let me know if you need any help, have a great weekend👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
great video. However the software you used, while great, is not necessary. I set mine using a simple Bluetooth and Car Garage Pro app on my Droid and set the CMP Offset for under $40 bucks. Compared it with Tech2 scanner from a friend and it was dead on. So no need to waste money on what is actually a useless procedure anyways. The timing cannot be set as it is controlled by the ECM. And the ECM already knows where the cam and crank sensor are. All you have to do is be sure the distributor is locked in a position where the offset is +/- 2 degrees and the ECM controls timing by that. So if you are at most +2 or at least -2, ECM timing advance calculations will yield the same results. This is just typical GM face flash for young kids graduating from Tech School and getting ripped from Snap On tools into having to buy erroneously expensive scanners. It is all BS. My 99 Suburban 5.7 performs the same no matter if I am + or - 2 degrees...zero means nothing but peace of mind. That's why later models didn't use adjustable distributors and we're locked down with non rotating bodies. If the body is beyond + or - 2 degrees, the ECM will set a P0345 code for camshaft and crank offset. The best way to set it is install the distributor in correctly and rotate the body to with 1/4" of touching the intake manifold and you will nearly always be within the acceptable parameters. Done this for years and never had a problem. Zero degree offset is great, but not necessary. The ECM knows what to do as long as it is within the specified parameters. Any position of the distributor beyond that will likely cause misfiring since the rotor button will physically be beyond the computers ability to time the spark.
personally I can feel every bump and pop if it's not perfect with the larger camshaft i have. I'll be waiting for your link to this $40 tool because I spent months looking for such tool. thanks..
Horsing Naturally also I've been as far as 12 degrees out without a cel PO345. that -2 to 2+ spec is BS I'll agree. personally I've been dropping in distributors for years lining up the rotor with the 8 or 6 mark and never had a CEL nor issue. please let me know about the $40 tool. that would really help, as this was the only tool I could find to do this procedure which I'll also agree is nonsense. thanks again!
Horsing Naturally the 4.3's are non adjustable from the factory as well, but can be adjusted by slotting the body/tab. But once again there is really no need for any tool if you know the drop in procedure for a distributor on a L31.
No sir. That was my thought too. The advance timing doesnt change, it does not matter how much you twist the distributor the advance stays the same. Camshaft retard is found in the GM pid list which can be found on the scantool platform but are not available to scan live without the GM add on to my knowledge. Took me a minute to find the pid in the menus. The entire scantool tool platform actually takes days of feeling out before understanding how it works fully. You might be able to get away with a BAFX scanner, or Similar aftermarket scanner but I have had no luck tapping into the GM side of the vehicle with cheaper scanners. Lots of great videos for cheaper scanners in action doing the same thing I'm doing (BAFX scanner vortec ignition timing is what I looked up). Hope this helps!
@@verasvacuum182 oh really? How much fluctuation? The numbers will change a little when you rev it up but nothing dramatic. Does the value move around when you set the throttle body screw to 1200 rpms? If it is all over the place you could have sensor or mechanical issue I know I have heard that from someone else and it ended up being a bad camshaft position sensor located in the distributor but they replaced the crank sensor at the same time so I'm not sure what exactly fixed their problem. That would be the sensor side of a problem like that. Or it could be the distributor gear is so worn out that it is causing a problem with the timing and cant read correctly. I would make sure it's not jumping all over the place at a steady 120p rpms and if it's not your good to go and set your timing. 👍
@@verasvacuum182 I really need to make a video on setup and pid use. You can view pids live without a graph or gauge like the one I used in the video. There is small boxes next to the list of pids. Check the ones you want to watch and hit the green play button. The pid value will show up next to the selected pid and begin reading. It is a little tricky at first but super easy once you get it. Hope this helps. Happy Halloween!
tom nelson so let me begin by saying this was on a laptop with Windows 8 so that dictates what my program was. for example scan XL is different to tap into through a mobile phone app versus a laptop with Windows. I chose the windows route on a tablet even though I have the Bluetooth adapter that works with my mobile phone. Now if you want the windows route you need a wire to connect from the OBD port to the laptop. They sell it on scantool.net, it's like $29. Otherwise you need the scan MX Bluetooth adapter if you want to go the mobile phone route (much more confusing unless super phone savy, which I am not). Let me know which type device your using maybe I can help guide you right direction.....
tom nelson If cheapest route Amazon sells a tool that you can tap into this and other GM add parameters BUT IT DOES NOT WORK ON EVERY VEHICLE. Donloaded an 8 dollar app (car gauge pro I believe and I pulled it up, but didn't work on all the trucks I tested with the vortec 5.7). I did pull up the parameter you see in the video on multiple vortec 5.7 vehicles so it does work through a mobile phone (look on RU-vid for BAFX scanner vortec 5.7 or something similar, been a while since I looked for it). With that said you can try the Amazon scan tool.. $38 with the app is what I paid BAFX scanner is what it's called. Sorry that's as cheap as I know and it's a 50 50 but it's one hell of a scan tool for $29
Sorry for late response. This is just a graph. First I made sure my parameter (CMP retard offset) was selected checked off and playing/graphing. Then I open a new graph (they give you multiple choices of graphs like the one in the video). Then you open the new graph and choose your parameter. Then you can view your parameter in multiple ways. They have all different ways to graph. I would explore the app and get familiar because I too was frustrated. I eventually figured it out after a couple days of fiddling with the scantool features they offer. It does take time to t used to so don't feel bad if you didn't get right of the bat. I had to figure out how to apply the GM add on for about 2 weeks. Then figure out how to graph the damn thing. Once you do it it will be no problem in the future. I had to create a graph and then save it for future use. Takes 2 minutes to pull up all information once saved onto scantool software
It's either the distributor is stuck to the intake manifold or you have an aftermarket clamp that is non-adjustable (I don't know why they make these clamps as they don't give correct timing).
