It looks great man you are doing a great job don’t worry about the negative comments. These are the type of people that I’ve never done anything in their life much less saved a rusty ass car from a field that is going to be a driver now. You’re gonna be driving and there’s still gonna be thinking about perfection lol live life and drive rust never sleeps
when you use the tracing method you need to make sure you leave the whole line there when your trimming otherwise you will cut it too much and have a wide gap. When your were doing the part you should have used tape on the part to use as a guide. I use tape all the time like that.
That foam is a death sentence for the newer models. Great to see you going at it. Great job on very difficult patch sections. Mike F’n is smiling on you 😉👍
@@CTmoog Rust Oleum makes great stuff and that primer is almost identical in color to the surface rust. After you recreate the patina in the patches you can use a certain specialty oil that’s used for patina cars to preserve them.
@@Mikefngarage Like he says “we’re getting there”…..he’ll be able to tackle anything as he gets more practice. He’s doing great; he’s very careful and methodical.
Coming along nicely! Personally, I'm not into the patina thing but you're saving it from the crusher or worse, letting it rot into dust. This is a really good process.
Great job buddy, your skills are getting better every episode. There is an old technique, when bodies were build by hand, they were using a hot iron and lead to fill all those pinholes and crannies after welding. Easy, quick and fun, check it out.
CT I just read through the comments. I am just in awe of the people that think they know better than you about your project. (The hater’s). Yes we all want people to like who we are, and what we are doing. It has been said over and over “you can’t please everyone”. It is sadly one of the truest statements ever made. Nevertheless we say the same thing. “ They are entitled to their own opinion”. I say this is one of the most false statements ever made. Where did they earn the right to have an opinion that belittles you or your choice’s. Yes you are on RU-vid. You have asked for help, and comments on what you are working on. Neither of these two things have asked anyone to judge you, belittle you or your choices. We are very capable of having a civilized conversation between adults, without childish comments, personal digs, trying to come a cross as “I am better than you”. They are trying to be an ADULT BULLY. There is no other place we expect this behavior. Other than the internet. It’s time we stopped saying they have a right to treat you or anyone else badly just because they want to. CT, I do apologize for this ranting of a mine. I do appreciate you sharing yourself, and your projects with everyone. Thank you. I pray you do very well with RU-vid.
Enjoying watching you do this a lot. Btw I’d be very tempted to deal with the rust in that area you cut open while you can. Just some rust converter and slap some Por15 up in there.
love your video's it's all about getting stuck in that's how i learned to do metal work on my vw's I think a car alway's looks better when you cut the rust out great job .From me in the uk
I don't think there were drainholes in the earlier Beetles, there are no holes to be seen on the rubbers neither. You are doing a great job of making Frankenbeetle look great again.
You found a mouse-nest! No wonder it rusted. Factory insulation was a pillow made from upholstery scraps placed in the lower channels that lead to the engine compartment.
It's extremely hard to do but when you grind the weld down don't grind the metal only the weld stay on top of the weld. space between the panels allowed for weld to remain
GOOD. JOB. PATINA. SEEMS. TO. BE. THE. THING. THE. PROGRESS AND. PROCESS. IS. RIGHT. ON. I COULD Wtch this. All. Day. You saved. One. From the. Crusher
You may want to find an airbrush artist to blend your paint around the repairs at the back window. That is something there very good at doing. The airbrush is very well suited for that particular task. Just a idea. I wish you well on your project. I have enjoyed your work, as well as your videos.
Hehe, wise decisions, good result. Don't be afraid of picking the spots, many times it makes your effort a breeze.. and weld in the outer an internal skin separately. Well, the tighter the gap, the easier the weld. Excelent some tune up and planishing advised. 😉Keep on.
I've been watching a few videos from time to time and with all this love labor you might as well go all the way. Meaning that you should paint this car. Just think of the 2 more years of content...
Even it must be done, after so many what at first glance seemed like hopeless vehicles that you have managed through perseverance, dedication, and optimism to save, isn't it still a bit sad to cut up one in order to to save another?
I might be whizzing in the wind here, but just to make a suggestion or maybe throw an idea out there (in terms of giving it a rusted patina to replace what you knock off).. maybe there's an oxide powder that you can add to the paint that can give you the same effect. I know that with a lot of red and orange paints they normally use iron in the paint. Basically to give it it's red and orange hue. So a lot of red and orange paints already have iron in it I don't know if the second apply to something this large because I never had any experience with this, but there is a powder that they sell that is iron based that is mostly used for 3D printing or cold casting. What you do is you produce the part, and after it's solid you put some sort of rusting agent on it. I don't know what the compound is, but when it comes in contact with the surface, it makes it start to oxide and rust. Inferior should work with any oil or acrylic base paint, but that might be an option. I know you can use hydrogen peroxide to knock down the color, making it look more faded. So that could help with the color matching to a certain extent. But also look into the latex and toothpaste method for weathering and giving objects the look of scraped off paint. It's an effect that they is a lot and science fiction and things like Star Wars. I've been seeing a lot of videos of people making custom boba Fett outfits for example, and one of the ways to make it look like the paint's been stripped off is using latex or toothpaste cover a certain spot when you're painting, and then just use water or some sort of solvent to remove it off the surface so it's clean That might come in handy to create artificial rust spots. Don't want to be crazy with my post here, but that might be an option. Check it out and see if that helps!
Excelente trabalho. Você está se superando. Este é um trabalho muito difícil, recuperar este fusca do jeito que estava, é para poucos. Você está reunindo um trabalho de recuperação, fabricação, restauração e até mesmo de engenharia. Parabéns CT, você é ótimo. 👏👏👏👏👏👏
@28:49 THAT is the reason I suggested you should’ve included the vent louvers and cut below the venting so you don’t have a problem with warping or blow through on the top of them, which you are experiencing right now!!!
Wow, Still some haters in the comments. But just ignore them cuz I would love to see them leave a link to the projects they are working on. 😂 keep up the good work CT. Gettin ‘er done. Not sure how much more rust repair you have to do but at this pace you will be done in no time. Hope to get back on my projects soon.
Con todo respeto a tú trabajo té sigo hace ya unos años y has progresado mucho , pero hubiera sido mejor cambiar el marco completo y así aprovechabas el donante a su capacidad completa ya que estaba en muy buen estado. Sigue así 😃😃😃😃
if make a mistake while you on the vents if you have dye grinder would help to fix your air vents ct it would be the best way to repair it now while working on it ,thumb ups . but your doing fine keep it up man .😁
Weld through primer, weld through primer, on the inside of that piece you are replacing on the inside of that bug!! where you DON’T have a good access!!! you need to get some rust converter as well as primer or rust inhibitor primer inside of that. You can’t tell me you can get to that readily after you’ve already welded that piece in place because I’m gonna scream BS on that.!!
Should’ve welded that inside corner first because that way you don’t have to worry about it being low or too low….😳😳😳 After you have the most difficult point where you want it intact and in place, then you go after the peripheral !!
Wouldn´t br usefull for you to get fingersander and more magnets for better work?...and If I were you...I will install that windwhield and test it as soon as possible..
