Your method is correct! However the Beetle chassis in org hight have by design bumpsteer the steering box is mounted at a higer point than the spindels so steering arms will have a slight angle down. When under weight the steering box will move down with the chassis but Spindels stays the same this will push out the steering arms giving the steering ange more of a toe in under weight. This means that getting your alignment correct can only be done with the full weight of the the car. Keep up the good work 👍 It will be nice to see this on the road again!
The toe angle of the front wheels aims to compensate for their tendency to open when in motion. That's why the wheels are placed so that they converge slightly forward by 1 to 3mm as per the VW service manual. I liked the way you did the alignment, very good
Great job; the idle problem could be due to something binding on the accelerator cable. As soon as you install the tank; fill it with gas and put the spare and tools in the frunk the ride height will level out.
I just use a tape measure Hook it on the tread tow in in 1/8. I do it on the rack and it does not change that much. when its on the ground. you can really feel it when it is right.
Good video! It's either a vacuum leak or a timing issue causing the high idol. The engine did take a pretty hit when the car came down during installation.
Your science is good for the toe measurements, but way more complicated than necessary. Here is the simple precise way that I’ve been doing it on all vehicles for 50 years. Get about a 1” square or round stick about 46” long. Put a flat head 1” long screw in each end with a little lube to make them turn fairly easy but not loose. You will measure from the inside at center axle height front and rear. Start on the forward side of axle with first stick fitment at axle height. Adjust the screws in the ends of the stick so it just touches with no play. Make a paint mark on the rims right where the screw heads touch the edge of the rim.This marking is critical, especially on those old steel rims that are far from true. Now, move the bug either direction until those paint marks are to the rear at axle height and check with the toe stick and You’ll see what You’ve got to do to adjust. The reason for measuring from the same marks is for precision. You’ll see why if you take a minute and set up a secure measuring jig such as you would with a dial indicator and check at one of the rim edges while turning the wheel. Do this and you will quickly see why measurements have to made at the same spots. Of course You will want to center the steering wheel from stop to stop first, and You will want to drive the bug when you get that far and make the final fine tuning adjustments to get the steering wheel dead nuts centered by adjusting the outer tie rods. That is the right way to do it, not repositioning the steering wheel. Hope this helps. Try it , You’ll like it. 👍👍🇺🇸
Yeah!! number 1. What up CT!! Im about to tear down my 66 bug, gonna start with new pans, then install disc brakes front /rear and anything else the pan needs. Then the body, my 66 looks good from the outside, but soon as i take those fenders off im sure ill find some surprises. I already know i will need to replace the lower pilars, my heater channels look good (thank goodness lol) Anyways, ive watched all your bug videos and want to thank you bro..
Great work, if your tyre pressures are in PSI then they are way to high and should be half that 25 on the front and 27 on the back as a good starting point!
Last year I watched your Beetle build. Having now started my own project one of the big questions for me was how does the inevitable water escape from the A-post. It turns out the bottom of the A-post is left open, otherwise the whole cycle of trapped water and rot starts again!! Which brings me to when you took great care to make and fit a little blanking patch !!! You should maybe at least bore a big hole in that beautifully crafted piece ;)
Quick tip for Mr. CT: You can balast the tank weight with anything weighting pretty much the same.. =) You have in the front a very handy depression to hold something and simulate the tank.. This way you kill 2 flies at once.. Other than that, seems to be almost ready.. I wonder how many hours did you put in?! Mmm, pretty sure a lot, isn't it? Cheers, keep on, almost there... 😉
when i think how i used to change my clutch on mine years ago. brush handle to align the clutch, upon wheel ramps and a trolley jack with a bike sprocket to lift and lower lol borrowed a 13 mil and ten mil spanner, sure you could do everything with a 10, 13, 17, spanner maybe 19 for wheels. those were the days, no attention to health and safety, no money and worked on the roadside, will never be a mentor lol
Would help if you explained at the start of the video what your setting out to do. I spent the first 5 mins guessing what you were trying to achieve, just saying!
Merhaba Dostum Videolarını severek izliyorum çok başarılı olduğunu düşünüyorum teşekkür ediyorum zevkle izliyorum Lakin bir mevzuatın var RU-vid Dil seçeneğini Türkçe dilini eklemenizi rica ediyorum alt yazıdan konuşmalarınızı anlayabilmek için benim için videolarınız çok daha anlamlı bir işe yarar olacaktır aynı model aynı kasa bende de var sizin videolarınız sayesinde ben de arabamı topluyorum bu konuda daha başarılı olabilmem için sizin anlatımlar altyazı tercümanlara ihtiyacım olacak teşekkürler Türkçe alt yazı seçeneği rica ediyorum
I think you are doing this alignment wrong.. It's opposite of what you need to be doing.. the leading edge of the front tires are supposed to be closer than the rear of the front tires.. Toe in or Positive toe is what you need.. At least this is what I've done on both my 62 bus and my 56 bug.. This is what keeps the vehicle tracking straight at higher speeds. Others' have used a tape measure and using the tread of the tire as a place to hook the tape measure.. it should be1/8th closer on toe in.. I know some performance guy's will do negative toe because that helps cornering.. If you do this on the street, you will wear out the inside of your tires much quicker and you will get a wondering front end..
I had thought he’d gotten it wrong as well but when you think about it, the larger number for the front of the tire means that the front of the tire is further inward from the side of the enclosing square than the back of the tire. And this will give him toe in.
Another good one buddy. Looking forward to the next one. I may have missed it, but did you put a spare up front? That and the missing tank might be why the front is a bit high. The back is low from trying to contain all the awesome Darrin put in that engine!
@@machineethics you know what? You’re right. I’m thinking he’s measuring the distance between, when he’s measuring the outside distance to the string. The larger number means the tires are positive toe,,, my bad!! Kinda of a backwards way of doing it, but it still works. Keep ‘em coming CT.
Sinulla on vanhan aikainen taka axeli joka kovassa vauhdissa eli yli 80 km/t tappaa matkustajat kun kurvissa, kun ulkokurvin axeli yht äkkiä menee auton alle ja auto pyörii ja katto tulee päälle kaikki noin 3 sekunnissa! Hanki autoosi, kun kerran teet noin vitusti työtä uudemman vw taka axeli missä ei pyörät mene v mallisesti alaspäin vaan kummallakin puolen on oma axelin vakaus mekanismi! Lopeta leikkimästä vitun vanhoilla kolari leluilla ja uudista autosi tieliikenne turvalliseksi niin sinulle kuin muillekkin tie liikenteen käyttäjille! Myös muille tieliikenteessä ajaville! Liikenne turva virastot tietää nykyään kaikkien tehtyjen autojen kaikki tilastot! VW oli johtava alallaan! Tee nyt omastasi turvallinen etkä käytä vw lepakko taka-axelistoa vaan erillistä uudempaa!
That is what camber compensators and rear anti sway bars are for. He can install any of them and make the car safer. Plus; it is not a race car; not meant to corner at fast speeds.
