VW Beetle Type 1 Engine | Will It Run Better? 

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Okay. Sort the brakes out, new clutch, new cables back to the engine, new tires, and roll. No messing about with pulling the body off the frame or anything else. Get that thing up and running and call it good.

Heya CT! I’m restoring a 63 ragtop currently! And I’ve been watching you and using your vids as a guide! I’m so thankful for you man. Sadly my front axle beam is cracked. So I can’t restore that. Keep up the good work!!

Hey CT! The video production quality was excellent!

You have to adjust the 6 Volt heating element, which governs the automatic choke which is the upper flap in the carb. Note that the engine seems very good because there is no oil smoke on the exhaust gas. On 49:06 it sounds very good.

Well done CT. A definite win. You got to get one of these drivable soon, I’m sure you will.

congratulations, it is the first time that you do not disarm everything, greetings from Argentina

I had a '63 40 horse motor in my '73 Super Beetle. Other than changing the flywheel it fit fine and worked great. Wasn't much in the performance department, but it got me to work and back and even brought son number two home from the hospital when he was born. The heat exchangers were a lot different than what you have on yours, though.

She is running really good ! So good you puttn fresh oil in CT 👍

Can't wait to see you driving old "Fritz". Great content about the engine - runny smoooooooth!

Great bro one day you will complete all the two beautiful cars running

I’m so grateful for the kindness here. Thank you, everyone!

For running better first thing should be welding that hole in intake! Couldn't look elsewhere when all was assembled but the hole was still there. Omg

I think its going to be a really good engine. Get a bottle of liquid Molly engine flush to run through it. Note: if you have never used it before put a quarter of the bottle in to flush the engine and run for 3 to 5 minutes. It's a really strong cleaner. Using too much or running too long can damage the motor. It does do really good at cleaning the gunk out of the motor.

you have to use JB Weld MARINE flavor, all other ones arent Fuel proof.... Cant adjust the carb till the air filter is on? Maybe I missed something? Why would there be "Chunks of Magnesium" in an air-cooled VW motor?

Good work!

That engine was missing the temperature control flaps and the thermostat. Most people don't have the patience to keep it maintained.

amazing work, thanks!

Nice job sir Nice show cool Garage 😃👏👏👏👍👍👍👍

Another great Video!

There is a chrucher seal ring under the intake. You can see in your video where you point out the crud and not to get it in your head that its not sealing. They have to be replaced every time you remove the intake from the heads. Otherwise it can run lean.

good video

sounds good now

With the toque wrench the advice is to slacken off at least a turn then go back in to tighten to spec

That stuff you are getting out with changing the oil is carbon and dried up sealant that was used the last time the motor was apart

Excellent video CT :) also that Volkswagen motor sounds good condition after you tune up and set vavlea plus carb rebuilt too ! For 1963 motor think well took care and runs smoothly! Also would get 89 octane gas with 5 % Ethonal runs in and get grey or black bottle of STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner in fuel tank too in run thru motor also help run clean and may try plug up too!

I would recommend replacing the flat head screws with bolts, so they are easier to remove later if you need to remove the tins again. If you decide to replace the heat exchanger with a strait pipe, you will need to make something to replace them, so you don't lose your cooling ability. The heat exchanger helps direct the hot air out the back and if you remove them the air will not be directed out the rear as it was intended and could cause over heating issues. I would also recommend being very careful when torquing the head bolts, watch the stud as you are tightening as the studs can pull out of the magnesium block very easy casing you to have to replace it with an oversized stud, my dad and I ran into that problem back in the 80's when we were rebuilding the engines.

Bonjour CT vous êtes super concernant la mise route des moteurs de vos véhicules ainsi que la présentation de ce petit compresseur d'air à bientôt de voir vos vidéos

Dang CT. It sounded 👍 great you can save it put it back in the original car that would be 🆒

The part on the carb that you said you thought was messed up is controlled by the choke, as it warms up it will move back to the normal operating position and let the engine idle at normal rpms.

Love the close ups CT….and the orange gloves add a cinematic element….well, a graphic element I guess…!

Just dropped by to see if any projects was close to finalizing. Your neighbours have heard VW-related sounds from your garage for at least 5 years, and still not seen anything looking like a car drive by. Wish you were more focused, dear CT. Where can we follow the guy that ended up with Rusty?

Hey CT I didn’t see, Did you put on new gaskets ? Like under the rocker Arms? Carburetor intakes ? Valve covers ? You did got the oil drain and strainer so You must have. Maybe could have shown the Gasket kit before. Anyway seems to run just fine Nice work man Great job!

I seem to remember that the auto choke ran off a bimetallic strip on the opposite side to the stepped lever, but mine was a later beetle

Wind that throttle screw in it’s stopping it from idling low

Hello CT! I would do a compression test on the VW engine. On such an old machine!

Hi My Dear Friend Very Very Good Job ❤❤❤❤❤

CT is the 914 project dead?

Woohooo first here!! Time to watch!

Nice 👍

OMG. I would not have the self control once the tins are off, the rockers are off.....I'd pull the pushrods to make sure they are straight....might as well pull the heads....and the jugs.....and, screw it, now that it is apart, split the case.....then build it up with new bearings...new rings...drool, drool......you are a better person than I am!

Does that intake have a hole? It will cause that cylinder to run lean and hot. Should take care of that before your roadtest

Hi CT, most carbs that old i have worked on all have round head slot screws. hex head probably something someone just put on there and probably the wrong metal material as well. Oh, just started the reinstall video series on my old 40hp. The carb for it will be hitting the chem dip bucket soon for sure. sounds good but has a miss? timing or something else? did you check the compression on each cylinder?

Mustie 1 has some clever trick to get those tin bolts loose. Uses a chisel I think.

Ewerything would be Clean in the Ultrasonic Bath. You can pre-clean with your stuff, but IT only gets Clean with the Ultrasonic.

what was the device you used to mount the starter to the back of your engine? Where to buy one Thanks

Did you torque the left head studs? All you showed was doing right side twice and that backed off nut still looked loose when adjusting the valves. 🤔

Impact screwdriver is best way to remove tinware screws that have seized. Get one for next time!

Where did you get that engine stand please

You should paint it like Herbie from "Herbie Goes Bananas"

Can you tell me which book you show about Beetle mechanics?

Did I hear that you are in Florida? If so, I could gladly lend you a hand or knowledge since building and repairing hundreds of air cooled dubs. Got away from it and into a 64 truck now so I can get around with about anything. Got tools too except can't do welding.

You should have filled it full of gasolene and left it overnight, best flush ive ever used then some fresh oil

👍👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️✌️

🤗❤️👍💯❣️

clean out oil cooler fins

Ok

Boa Noite Amigo Ótimo Trabalho foi Tranquilo Deus Abençoe Esse livro de Manutenção do Fusca você pode me Enviar um para mim fala o valor e enviarei o valor Boa Noite

CT, you bought a girlfriend for your other beetle..😅

Ok but when are you gonna rip it apart and then find another project ?😂

Fuel line lying against the hot muffler.. there's some excitement ready to happen....smh

steam clean the hole engine first //now

honestly. are you torquing on dry rusty bolts.?? shouldnt you loosen them first to see if they move right, and then torque them all down again. the torque values is normally on dry bolts. wet - oily bolts is less torque.

flush out with diesel fuel and save on oil //poor diesel and look for it to poor out clean out //do not start engine will diesel in crank case //just poor in to help clean out block //then I add S T P IN WITH MY OIL

JB Weld is brittle. I had it crack under vibration. Not a good idea on a carb.

Car just needs a sand down and some paint, sadly just looks like a pile of junk in rusty patina format !

BOA NOITE AQUI DO BRASIL UM GRANDE ABRAÇO SEMPRE VEJO OS VIDEOS.