1 year on and you have saved me going to the main stealers 50notes for the part and 10mins to install. Longest part is getting the plastics back on. Thanks again for the video.
I just changed mine and it's way easier if you reach with your fingers through the round hole in the body and the boot light after taking off the clip-on trim that holds it in place. A 5 minute job without prying open all that trim.
Hi guys who are doing this fix yourself. I just tried it and it’s actually possible to accomplish by removing just the fuel door housing. But it requires a lot of blind touching and feeling where the socket is. Long and thin fingers do help a lot. My fingers are thin but not exactly long. Watching this video to find out the position of the socket does help a lot! Quite easy to remove the switch just by blind touching, tough part is putting it back blind because of angle issues and having to aim the socket blind. Definitely gonna take very long and many tries, but it’s not as tiring to remove the inner panels. And putting inner panels back has its own troubles when the clips will not be in place altogether when u smack them in, and once u miss any of them and it bends (especially the inner ones), it gets extremely troublesome and tiring to reinstall the panels. Good luck with anyone trying!! I got bored and replaced it although I dint really have to (it spoilt while it’s on ‘open’ mode so it can still open and close normally, just unable to lock), and eventually realised its not worth the effort at all 😂 but 1 more diy completed!
Very Helpful video! My actuator is off. One question: Instead of open the panel inside the car and unplug it, can i cut the old cables and put it togheder with the new ones from the outside, could it work?
Glad you think so 👍 Nope as you have to disconnect the electrical plug, you cannot do that from the outside (you would only damage something). Best of luck 👍
I just did this. The answer is yes. Look at the wires for the new unit and make sure the colors match to the old. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Cut the old wire giving you as much length as possible, and cut the clip off of the new wire. Use a wire stripper to expose a bit of copper on all 4 wires. If you have shrinktubing now is the time to put it in place (but for me the wire lengths were not good for using shrinktube). Twist the matching wires copper together to make a mechanical connection and then solder them together. Wrap each wire in electrical tape to keep them from shorting against each other. Wrap them again with tape to prevent moisture from getting in. Reassemble the actuator/gas cap, reconnect the negative battery terminal, start car and test the actuator. Worked like a charm for me and a lot easier than taking out trim or trimming to reach the plug through that tiny hole.
I think its also worth mentioning not to use any electric tools such as aku drills to unscrew the screws to avoid sparks near the reservoir, specially if its a gasoline car.
You can actually just remove the plastic cap by pulling it to the right when it is still closed. Now you can pry it open from underneath with a screwdriver, which will break the motor, but that doesn't matter since it is already broken. Your fuel door will remain intact, that is more important.
Do you have any part number for this? I've managed so far by filing down and lubing the guiders. Also rapidly unlocking the car and pushing on the lid has helped. But this seems inevitable. Good video!
I’ve somehow got a 4 pin connector but I can’t find any information about it and even searched the part number itself but still I can only find the 2 pin connector. You got any info about this?
@@kildareemanMy OBD Elev device acually listed this as "Tank lid activation" error way before i noticed this as being a problem for my GTI CS at gas station today. Thanks alot for awesome video! Saved to my service videos! 👍
