I certainly can't fault you for showing us who the actual VW dealer was......they earned the recognition on this botched job. Nice work, and keep the vids coming!
Thanks for sharing my son had this same issue. We did the visual inspection like you mentioned and found out broken plastic hose. Saved us a trip to the mechanic!
Ghesss.... That's why we call it the "Stealership".... Those plastic pipes can and do break all the time. For a shop to miss that it's in-excusable. Have the owner of this car talk with VW's customer care, the national or regional office for a full refund. Skip the dealership as all they will do is B/S
Perfect fix...my CEL has been fixed. The break in my hose was right after the hose retainer clip on the side of the engine. A 1/2" rubber garden hose inserted perfectly and taped down with black hockey tape ( Canada Eh!) Thanks mate!
Im sure you get comments like mine everyday, but this type of information is precisely what I needed to not make a horrible financial decision at the shop. You are the man.
I know this is 3 years old but thanks for this, Ivan! I have a customer's 2009 Rabbit (Golf) 2.5L with a P0491 Sec Air insufficient flow code and only my Autal DS708, just like yours, to scan it with. On mine it says "Secondary air injektion system control A circuit" which I assume is the pump circuit since the next test is a switching valve A circuit, and all I heard for the pump was clicking on and off. Your comment about the pump turning on and off was very helpful in knowing what I should expect from the bidirectional test. I'm guessing the pump is seized up on this car but will dig in more tomorrow with the test light. No Verus here to get code setting criteria info from but this was more than enough to get me on the way to a quick diag on this one. Thanks!
This code popped up during my emissions check today. I am going to run through all the hoses tomorrow. Hopefully it’s the same thing and I don’t need a new air pump! Thanks for the awesome vid!
May we expect a video with you and Eric? Nice job on this one. One reason I watch you (and others) is so I won't be ripped off by a dealer again. Years ago, I got stuck with a $800 computer replacement that didn't fix the problem.
Thank you kind Sir for exposing Audi / VW service techs complete incompetence!!I had an Audi A4 with this exact same code P0411, the dealership changed lamda sensor, air mass flow meter, air pump and the code still kept coming on - in the end I was left with a bill of over 800 euro and the fault code still coming on!! I was at the end of my tether with Audi Ireland!I took it to a back street garage and they found the problem was also the pipe!Audi service rang me a week later, telling me they would like to get to the bottom of the problem, suggesting a complete engine overhaul for 4,500 euro!I will never buy an Audi or a VW again!
Thanks for the detailed video. I was getting P0491 couple days after DSG flush from dealership. Dealership said nothing they did. Watched this and traced the hoses and saw a broken hose right from the SAI sensor. Ended up fixing with self bonding silicone tape.
Had another problem like this with my Audi on the PCV hoses. The hoses are really brittle and crappy, so I used some heater hose and took an exacto knife to cut those push connectors off the original hose and attached them to my heater hose with some hose clamps. Saved myself over 300 dollars, since a new PCV hose is 300+!
Depends on the dealer, but most techs at dealers make absolutely no money off of diagnostics, so the system provides no incentive for proper diag. You spend 4 hours on diag and only get paid 2.0, that's unsustainable, especially if you have a lot of expenses. A lot of dealers are frought with red tape and bullshit that techs have to navigate in order to survive. Just another example of businesses chasing the almighty dollar down the drain.
Nice fix! I'd like to plead with all your viewers that not all dealer technicians are incompetent a******s! Working in one, I admit that a lot are, but not all! Great channel Ivan.
Awesome Ivan. I have included that self healing rescue tape in my arsenal. It's awesome. It repairs broken hoses. Withstands pressures etc..... One brand is rescue tape. I got a roll at Home Depot Nashua brand. Stretch and seal. It is a self fusing repair tape Stretches 300% and no sticky residue. Check it out. ;)
This is why you avoid dealer service departments. Do it yourself or work with a competent independent mechanic. (Both apply in my case.) Great video! Tell him to throw it back at the dealership.
Great video. My experience, in terms of dealing with upstate NY dealership repairs, is to bend over and grab my ankles so they can purge my wallet. I even got swindled when having my vehicle in for a 40K manufacturer warrantee service.
2007 Beetle, don't have fancy scanner bit you showed me where to look and sure enough the hose came unplugged by the AIT intake before the MAF. THANK YOU
Dang it, I was wondering if the scanner had that function! Basic settings you say? I don't think the dealership bothered running that test after their repair either haha :P Thanks for the pro tip, Keith!
thank you so much for this video it helped me out a lot in finding where the issue was coming from. turns out that my hose was disconnected from the bottom fan underneath the throttle body. on my 2008 volkswagen jetta 2.5
Great video. With treatment like your customer received its no wonder people are wary of the dealer. Dealer repaired car flunks a visual inspection, nice
Thanks so much for sharing this! Was worried after seeing that code, but it turns out the hose is broken in the exact same spot on my Rabbit. It's a big relief to know that it's a relatively simple fix.
Lol! Yeah, good luck with that. The doctors at the hospital still get paid when they're wrong. Guarantee YOU still get paid when you're wrong. People and their sue happy bullshit....
The valve looks like a mirror image of the video Mr. O did last week.. nice fix, good catch. Who know if the old one was good or bad.. could go either way..
May not be a botched job at all. Well, no, I'm wrong. Partly a botched job for sure. The plastic pipes are notoriously brittle, and there was a darn good chance that pipe was intact until a mechanic twisted on it to get it off the valve. I've done it. In fact, sometimes it just part of the job to replace that plastic pipe because there isn't any way your going to get that pipe off without cracking it. If the "flap" was in fact bad, they fixed the problem and simultaneously created a new problem that would set the same DTC. The thing I CAN fault the dealer on is that they didn't test their work. The same tests you used to diagnose the problem, ie, the Sec air pump actuation combined with getting your nose under the hood while the pump is running would have immediately showed the cracked pipe. Well, that's flat rate work for you! The mechanic gets paid the same whether he checks his work or not. In this case, the dealer wanted the customer to check it by driving. Sheesh. They deserve to get brow beaten over that! I found this video after just now fixing a Audi V6 in the shop that had the same code. I used the VCDS to go through the exact same tests you did. In my case, it was a perished vacuum hose from the underside of the intake that supplied vacuum to both the "flaps" solenoid and the intake manifold switchover valve. In addition, the Secondary air pump has one of the rivets that hold the case halves together has split, and there is a smallish leak (maybe 10 or 20% of the total flow) coming from there. With what I think is the main culprit fixed, if a cold start and a test drive doesn't throw the DTC, then I'm going to let the customer know the options for repairing/replacing/living with the problem of the split pump and see if the code comes back. I try to get customers to never "just live with" a CK-ENG light, as although it's not going to tell you when your low on oil, if you get a stuck injector or something like that, it could very well save a $2k+ catalytic convertor. Very much enjoy your work, and enjoy watching as a good diagnostician goes through his routine.
Having owned two VWs in my time, the worst part of VW ownership are the dealerships. Never ever EVER go to a dealership for anything but warranty work. That car is a 2007...they should have called you or some other COMPETENT INDEPENDENT MECHANIC to fix this problem. Expensive lesson for them to have learned.
Ivan great visual inspection. Wonder when Thomas Exodus watches the video if this is a common failure.Your really going to succeed in your business.Are you going to open a shop like Eric O? I love watching your videos. Keep em coming.
2 года назад
Hey was wondering if you know how to get to the combi valve / EGR valve on a 2000 new beetle with the 2.0l? It is on the backside of the engine with really bad access-- not sure if windshield cowl removal would be the best way. Let me know if you have any ideas thanks Ivan
If the code sets within a very short time , I would have to give the VW tech the edge if he never seen the code reaper , maybe the valve was shot , could the hose unluckily split after the dealership . Did they bring it back to the dealer and why not , I think for that price they would have found the hose and fixed it for free. What do you think ?
Hey Steve! It's a two-trip code, so one test drive wouldn't throw the CEL unless you looked at pending codes. But the customer told me that the dealership's next plan of attack to solve this issue was "internal engine work costing thousands of dollars"...are you kidding me?!? This system has nothing to do with the engine itself at all!
What you say is entirely possible......I don't know the story on this job, but I'd like to know was the vehicle shipped with the check engine light, or not? I think Ivan said the system does a self-test, I just don't know the frequency.. I wonder if the work done on the bill might have disturbed a rotted plastic part? The obvious thing to do here would be to return to the dealer-ship, but maybe the owner did that....
+motoYam82 Wow Buddy send the vid to VW head office in America . That's nuts. They owe her all her money back just to save face but it seems VW is faceless over the last year. LOL
Unbelievable Ivan with the story of the dealership. Still wrapping my head around that one. Oh, and this video brought back some memories LOL..Nice video Ivan and keep up the good work!
I was looking at another video and somebody mentioned you were like a wizard with tricky problems. I'm working on a 2004 Landrover Discovery 2 for a friend, first time I have ever worked on a Landrover and first time I have dealt with a vehicle with SAI. Check engine light is on, getting codes P1412 and P1415, wont pass emissions. SAI blower works, relay is good, SAI solenoid is good but put a new one in anyway (yes its good), vacuum looks good, I happened to notice fusible link FL2 was blown which some comments online said the SAI runs through that, replaced that, still no change, SAI doesn't come on when engine is cold or first starting, not sure where to go from here. I did jumper terminals at relay and blower came on, so wiring is okay, any ideas, I'm at a loss ?
That's why there is a parts store on every corner. Lots of parts changers out there. Ivan, I need one of those Autel scanners. I see the price is dropping finally.
$620...jesus, parts changers are the cancer of dealerships, people need to stop thinking about dealerships as the eminence in their respective brands, most of the time you get a technician flagging hours like crazy on brake jobs and recalls, so when he gets a problem like this, where you need to use the brain for a second, its too much hassle so he'll start throwing parts and clearing codes until it doesn't come back or the client notices what a hack he is, i suggest if you take your car to a dealership, or any shop for that matter, talk to the person that's gonna look at it to see if its a competent, honest technician like ivan here or eric at SMA, that move might save you thousands in the long run
It is also possible that the plastic line was cracked during the repair at the dealership. The tech at the dealership may have fixed the original problem, but during the repair the plastic line cracked. May not have been complete incompetence.
Dude. I'm having the p0411 code on my 2003 beetle turbo s. Before I go replace the pump or valve, I'm going to check all those ribbed hoses. I'll let you how it turns out. Thanks
what was the time frame between repair and cel came on? did he return to dealer to ask why it came back on ? or did owner just say dealer ripped him off? yuo know that those hoses just break looking at them .so per norm lets call names with out knowing all the story
Jan Verschueren yep, I taped my cracked plastic hose and it’s been fine for about 50,000 miles now , google the price just this plastic hose and you’ll know why I never will change the hose
I am not o fan of dealerships, also, but try this scenario out. The secondary air injection pipe was broken AFTER the new secodary injection diverter valve was installed because the technician was in a hurry or WHILE the technician was removing it to install the secondary air diverter valve. Those plastic pipes become extremely fragile with engine heat over time. Both the divereter valve being stuck or the pipe broken will result in the same p0411 code.
Can you answer a dumb question? I need to replace the inlet solenoid control valve that sends vacuum to the combi valve's control inlet. How do I safely and properly release the electrical connection? It appears to have a metal release bar on one side, but I want to handle it gently and properly instead of breaking something. Pull straight up with pliers? Pry outward?
Got it -- bonehead simple :). I just pulled out the wire clip, and unplugging the electrical connector was a cinch. Removing three 10mm bolts then allowed me to drop the triangular mounting plate for the two control solenoids out from under the intake manifold. New $75 part, and I was back in business.
Dealership is a money pit. They make their money on the service side of the vehicle purchase. I would take a car to independent shop before a dealership. Their labor costs are way down compared to a dealership. Just do your homework if taking it to a shop. I the mean time I will always try to figure out what is wrong before going to a shop.
I've replaced a couple of those diverters and seen incorrectly fitting tubes cause issues... won't know the real story till everyone starts recording their work.
Hi, how do you get the secondary air system to go through its drive cycle? I've driven about 500 miles, local & on freeway, over the last 3 weeks, but the secondary air system is still reporting not ready when I try to get it smogged. All other systems have successfulky completed their drive cycles & pass smog tests. It's only the secondary air system that's reporting not ready. I have a 2000 vw beetle, turbo. Thx!!
@@BriannaaRhodess It was a bad hose., which is why it never got thru the drive cycle. Take it to your mechanic & let him know what's happening, & he should be able to replace the hoses for you - it's not expensive.
@@JasmineApple Thank you so much for your help! I will take it in tomorrow! Drove over 1,000 miles these past couple weeks and everything it set to ready but the secondary air system!
nice diag! my fix would've been a plastic bottle a little larger than the hose(maybe a 16.9oz pepsi bottle) with top and bottom cut off. sleeve the broken pipe and use heat gun like heat shrink.
The car owner paid $620 for incompetence. BUT could have the diverter been defective and the pipe broke secondary from all the pushing and pulling getting the new part in??
Perhaps, but that is irrelevant in this case. However we can say for certain, based on the sequence of events and documentation, is that they did not 100% confirm a faulty diverter valve or correctly verify the repair.
Anyone can easily diagnose if the vacuum pump is working or not , simply disconnecting the hose at the valve and then starting car at cold temp and then you will feel the air being pushed out of the hose or not , if no air it’s the vacuum pump , if air is coming out it’s working and it’s either a crack in the hose like you found or a bad valve in the egr unit
The dealer charged him a ton of money and didnt even fix the problem. Criminal imho. There should be some legal action he can take to get some of his money back
The combi valve is right on top , over $ 300 for labor. If they activated the SAI pump and just listened ... Ivan's proper repair even replacing the hose assy would have been around a third of dealers, and they did not fix it🤔
I am having a similar problem with my 2008 VW Jetta SE. A malfunction light went on last9in early December of 2017 and I had to repair it as my inspection was due in January -- it cost me $488.00 and I had just been laid off from my job that very week. The light stayed off until two weeks ago--I took the car for an oil change-- it has only 12,223 miles on it and they said to fix it this time will take two days and $1200.00--I am extremely frustrated. The car is paid off, low miles, but it is now the same issue with air injection. I wish you lived in Washington, DC. I am waiting for a while to repair it as I do not have an emission inspection again until January 2020.
No harm in waiting! Did you check for a broken air pipe like I showed in this video? Or you can buy an entire used reliable Toyota Corolla for $1200 :)
I will probably switch to a Toyota next go. The mechanics replaced a cracked last year....how often does this happen and should the pipe be under the hood. I am not good looking at dirty motors.
Long shot here, but I have an '06 jetta 2.5L value edition with the same code. The clip on the bottom end of the hose you replaced here is broken, which I believe is causing the code. I google this part number: Part No. 07K198125 and find the hose, but with sensor near the top end, but there is no sensor on mine. Is that the part I need?
lol absolutely nothing. The same hose is also for some rabbits, golfs, and audis. So it's probably just one of those that has a sensor there, but the hose is universal. Sucks because it makes it ridiculously expensive.
hi, i have a 2000 mk4 jetta Vr6. and i am getting a p0114. i've removed the front bumper and checked all lines for sign of leak and can't find any. i also looked at the same pipe that you found that was broken on your video and it's fine. i nothis that when i remove the ENGINE COVER TRIM SET small plate with the VW LOGO (front right side) that's on top of the rotary valve that turn the intake manifold shift rod and i clear the code, the engine check light stays off. but when i put the plate on back, one hour later the engine check light comes back.
i strongly think that i have a vacuum leak near the front drivers side just under the VW logo section.. cause it only comes on when i install the engine trim with the logo on the engine. i am going to fill a a spray bottle with water and soap and spray that section to see if bubble come out anywhere.
Hey man I think it was you that posted a webpage with wiring diagrams and schematics free on some webpage. Could you tell me which site that was? thanks
I have this problem and I’m hoping it’s a torn pipe. Its a 2005 model and the check engine light came off and back on by itself randomly but i have to smog check it this month so I have to fix it
30inHg = 14psi = 1 atmosphere. Then you have to watch how the scanner is reporting the data...Manifold pressure, or manifold vacuum. In this case it was pressure. In that freeze frame the vehicle was actually just starting to accelerate from a stop, which explains the high load and manifold pressure numbers :)
Around here is about 1000ft above sea level so 14psi is close enough :) And I'm wearing a hat because it was still in the 30's in the morning! Last cold spell in May.
