You put the bigger o-ring and the paper gasget in the wrong order! You must put the paper gasget first against the brake back plate and then comes the o-ring. It's important to put the o-ring against the bearing cover! If the o-ring is against the brake back plate, as you did, and then comes the paper gasget which is against the bearing cover, the paper gasget will brake and you will face oil leaking! And btw the other paper gasget goes to the back of the brake back plate.
im not really surprized he got the order wrong, he doesnt exactly look like a surgeon..but any ideas on this: MY seal holder has no back 'wall' to tap the seal up against, how far do i tap it in?
Excellent video, I got my new seals kit. It all started adjusting my handbrake and I noticed my shoes were all oiled up and crumbling away from oil contamination. The shoes were not that old, I replaced the whole lot and drums when I went to a 5 x 130 stud pattern. I did not know how the oil from the gearbox lubes the bearings. The ins and outs of owning an old beetle. Well done clear video, Great stuff.
I pressed the subscribe button once the Eff Wrench came out and I saw how easily it was able to get the hub assembly off the axle. This '68 Beetle here needs the same thing and I wasn't sure I had all the tools. I also have an Eff Wrench and it looks like it will be using it several times for this job. Thanks!
There are 2 different styles of bearing covers. One has the groove for the oring the other does not. if yours has the groove for the oring you dont use the gaskets. if it does not you use the gaskets. one on each side of the backing plate.
Interesting video ; You never mentioned the lack of a park brake nor that you sheared off the cotter pin taking it apart . It's a simple thing to use a 4MM flat faced pin punch and hammer to knock the sheared off pin out . One shouldn't ever need to remove the backing plate all all . Nice to see you know what a bearing & seal driver is and how to use it, many don't . FWIW, the little hole is a weep hole and it was clearly shown to have been weeping the gear oil out onto the back side of the brake plate, sometimes it soaks the brake shoes, they can be cleaned with hot soapy water, after they're dry be _SURE_ to either lay thhem in the direct sun or heat them to see if any more oil comes out of the friction material . Relined or new shoes don't co$t much but I know many here are on a tight budget . Never, _EVER_ fail to install the darn cotter pin ! . The cotter pins are easiest t remove by un bending the ends then grasping the looped head with a large pair of dykes, them lever against the castle nut and it'll come right out every time . Anyone who thinks swearing is a big deal needs to get a life . -Nate
Lube the O rings. Lube the seals. Torque to 217. (Book spec) then tighten till holes line up. Torque after wheel installed and on the ground. Chock the wheel. Much easier. Cheers!
Kit comes with 2 paper gaskets! 1for the brake assembly backing plate & 1 for the bearing cap! You can also put bearing grease on the bearing so it’s not dry during its first few miles. Other than that you did good?
How can you not like this Man!!!? Straight to the point and a no bull💩 . I love it just what I needed. Blessings and more blessings to you and your family New Subscriber
Hasn’t COME off any of the bolts yet, not CAME!!As mentioned below by Harold, the seal should have been lubricated before assembly and that’s probably why it was pinched by the previous guy, and possibly now, by you. Didn’t look like you repacked the main bearing..,looked a bit dry. Wow!
Dude, that is an oil seal, not an anvil! Why are you "pounding" it in? A little lube and the seal will seat fine. Also using the drift with the proper side facing the seal would help. Lastly if you don't remove the backing plate from the axle, you don't have to fight the large O ring seal that much. I'm guessing the other side went easier.
@@AutoRepairTips No harm no foul. Just pointing out that standard operating procedure for replacing almost any seal that is meant to retain grease or oil is to slightly lube the mating area first. Think oiling the oil filter gasket before install. No offense but do you think it should take as much effort with a small sledgehammer to seat a little seal as it does to remove a ball joint? Having the correct orientation for the drift would have had the seal home sooner, and more evenly and now that folks know, it comes in handy when using it elsewhere.
The putting it back on is the hardest part. the brake line makes the backing plate want to come away from the hub. you need a second pair of hands to hold it in place while you get the cover on. I didn't have anyone handy and ended up fucking up the o ring.
a paper gasket can't go on the other side of the backing plate. The step in the axle housing (type 1) where the backing plate goes is larger diameter than the inside of the gaskets. The second gasket is for a type 2 to go against the gear reduction box before installing the backing plate then the other gasket and cap. You only need one, but if 2 works well for you, it's all good.
I still don’t see which exact part is keeping the oil from leaking in the spline grooves. I did all of this and it still leaks between the axle splines.....down my wheel rim 😢
at 2:51 you can see it clear as day. The oring is behind the splines. If you still have oil leaking its most likely torn the ring I put on at 3:40 they sometimes get pinched on final assembly
@@AutoRepairTips Followed all the same instructions and still leaked. Took it apart and no o-ring pinched. SHould I put permatex on either side of the rubber seal and in the middle?