If like me you've broken key cylinder in your front door. You will need to replace them. I got the full set of 4 cylinders ignition cylinder and 2 keys off ebay for about £20.
Ahhh great, I've been clambering in from the passenger side for longer than I'd like to admit! Thanks for the easy-to-follow video, and the subsequent tips. Thanks people
After trying spending hours on trying to get the spring back in the lock, I'm going to share a very important tip. Make sure the tabs on the spring are pointing upward (toward the top of the lock) when you reinsert the spring. If they are pointing upward, the spring's diameter gets smaller when you compress it. If the tabs are pointing downward when you try to insert the spring, the spring's diameter gets larger when you compress it -- and it is impossible to get it to go back in.
Great video! Going to try this later because someone messed up the lock on my t4 when they tried to break in with a screwdriver yesterday! 😖 Couldn't picture it from the advice in the manual, but your video was really helpful! Thanks!
Mate worked a treat. One tip fellas if you think it won't lock try shutting the door first. Rookie mistake I know. I took it off another 3 times before I realised what I'd done 😑
The lock on the door and sliding door on the passenger side is broken like yours. Just looked at the first video that explains how to do it. Way easier then I initially thought, thought I had to unscrew alot more then just those 2 screwes. Thanks for uploading!
Swapping the pins to use your original key is fun. Lots of crud builds up in the tiny springs. I prefer powdered graphite for locks. It's dry and doesn't accumulate crud as much as grease. I was lucky I had a spare tailgate mechanism from a wrecked van cos those have a different lock barrel to the other doors. Changed mine in a carpark. I was living in the van for 7 years. I've done fuel pumps, gearshift bushes, auxillary water pump, clutch master cylinder etc etc on the side of the road or once in the post office carpark when I'd picked up the clutch master cylinder and the old one failed when I got in lol... I even have most of the special tools for T4 now. Please send help. Intervention required T4 psychosis of 16 years duration - oh the gearshift bushes . . .
The door handle broke on my wife's T4 (a.k.a. Eurovan here in the USA), and I replaced it with a used one. Having never had the door handle off, this video was very helpful, thanks!! I had to swap the lock cylinder, and after struggling with the spring for about 15 minutes, I think there's a key point that needs to be mentioned. First, it doesn't matter which way you orient the spring, both the end tabs face "inward", i.e. the one on the bottom angles up, and the one on the top angles down, so no matter which way you hold the spring, they'll be facing the same way. At least that's how both the springs I had were. After trying for a bit, there was just no way I could get the spring to sit properly in the groove at the end of the lock cylinder. Then a light bulb went on and I realized I was doing it all wrong. The following description assumes you have the door handle oriented long-ways between 12 and 6 o'clock, with the lock end at 12 o'clock. It's tempting to try to wedge the spring into the circular groove with the end tabs aligned with the "retaining slot" in the handle body - that is, with them pointing down at roughly 8 o'clock and 4 o'clock - and then pinch them together to fit in the slot. But that's not how to do it - the diameter of the spring is just too large to fit in the circular groove! Instead, start with the tabs roughly pointing rightwards, at 4 o'clock and 2 o'clock, so that only the bottom one is in the retaining slot (at 4 o'clock). Then, with a flat-blade screwdriver, wind the top tab anti-clockwise (a.k.a. counter-clockwise here in the USA) all the way back to the 8 o'clock position, until it engages in the retaining slot. This not only tensions the spring, it also reduces its diameter so it will actually fit easily in the groove on the lock cylinder!
I got it all out but the pin holding it in needs to be drilled out so I haven't got around to it yet, looks like a 2 mm bit would do it then replace the pin
