I accidentally overrevved my engine for a split second (answer phone call while drinking coffee and shifting) - hit almost 5000 - and immediately got the GPL and CEL....says turbo position sensor A error and some other code. both are wastegate codes. thanks for the video - i just ordered a the part online and am goin to use your video as a guide...... i think it's over my head, frankly. don't know how to adjust it. but my local vw mechanic kept the car for a week and then gave it back saying they couldn't find a problem (odd. because it has no turbo) so i'm on my own.
There is a little metal band that slips over both of those actuator nuts…. To everyone else getting their hands in there- locktight but also remember the nut retention cover band thing…..
It sounds like you have done a ton to your TDI, I have a gremlin that I haven't been able to figure out. I put an actuator on thinking it would solve my problem of an erratic boosting issue. It has throw 2 overboots codes but the man issue is under steady throttle you feel the car accelerate & cut back. I graphed it out while driving & the boost will just climb on its own and once out of range the computer kicks it back. All other sensors are good and the requested boost is steady. I am wondering if the esenteric ring of the VGT is worn & has slop. The VGT arm moves super easy & kind of surprised for a vehicle with 160k. I just bought this a couple months ago and just don't have the time in to know the in's & out of this motor. I have had my ample time with my 6.0 power stroke & 3.0 crd and know them very well. Just trying to get a second opinion before dropping the 1000 on a new turbo.
I’ve got an question a friend of my says the actuator is broken but I don’t get any fault in vcds My symptoms are that the turbo kicks in at 3000rpm🤷🏼♂️ and nearly sometimes It kicks in at very low rpm like it normal TDI does 🤦🏼♂️
I like a 2005 vw golf tdi at a dealer. when I test it i found a dash light. the dealer said it needs turbo actuator. it does not affect safety or performance. I don't know if it is good to buy the car or no
There's a slotted socket and 'S' line wrench used to adjust this with everything except the fuel line retainer on the head and the intake piping. I have them. They work great. Much better than removing intake manifold, though it is slightly more difficult to adjust than with removing the cover. I'll get the tool numbers for you if you'd like.
You did way too much work you can cut a 10 mil spanner with a ratchet end on it and you can put your arm down the back without the intake and adjust it perfectly when the actuator is relaxed. There should be at least a four or five mil gap between the top bolt And the turbo dump valve arm when fully pressed up then do the nut up at the bottom and close that five mil gap that will work looks like your sensor on your actuator plug is damaged. This could cause problems.
