Fixing P1248 Start of injection timing regulation control deviation intermittent on a 98 Golf Tdi with ALH engine. Diagnosis info in this video. Diagnosis of this problem was in part 1 • Vw Tdi Timing code P12... www.kansascitytdi.com
Excellent troubleshooting and diagnosis. I hope that customer appreciates having you as his mechanic. Knowledge and skill are becoming rare in the automotive world. Your videos are very helpful and informative. Thanks for the upload! Keep the TDI content coming! I appreciate all of your effort making and editing these videos. If you have any MK3 TDI cars in the shop, I will watch whatever you make from it.
I learned a lot from y,our video. I have a 1.9 trillion and its having starting issues. If I goose the pedal then it will start. Is there a fuel pump in the tank? If so how do I test that it's working?
There was CEL on my Skoda ALH 1.9 TDI 2005. The error code was P1248. You had advised to set the timing correctly. I have set the timing with the help of VCDS and the error is gone. The car is nice and smooth without any vibration and knocking. Thanks a lot for your valuable advice. Please keep posting such wonderful content which helps us to a great extent. drive.google.com/file/d/13xw4fvh7HIu3lSvaUsupQstolv3sZf2K/view?usp=drivesdk drive.google.com/file/d/13yyexs5KoeevhKBQ1XpnnejznG1Bjv03/view?usp=drivesdk
Dealing with the same code for months. I've checked the timing and I injection quantity both look fine. I removed fuse 34 and the engine sound changed. I'm thinking of trying a diesel purge cycle straight to the pump. Any ideas?
Hi, great video. I have the same code, removed the pump, and opened the bottom side covers to expose the start of injection piston as seen around 5:30 in the video. I found a little chip of metal off the end of the piston has broken off and there was a tiny bit of metal shavings both on the end of the solenoid and where the piston was chipped. The piston bore seems very lightly scored so I can push it back and forth and it does affect timing but I have to push considerably harder than you push in the video. It seems to me the hydraulic pressure is not overcoming the friction and that is causing the start of timing deviation. How would you recommend I proceed? Is there a way to remove that timing piston to lightly sand (like 800+ grit) the surfaces to face them so the piston can travel smoothly?
@@CoolAirVw Yeah that was me. Thanks for your help!
6 лет назад
Hey man, great job, and thanks for showing us this. I really appreciate the videos you have shared. Are you still repairing mk4 valve bodies, the one you did for me is doing great. You do good work. Hope I don't jinxs myself . lol
Thanks so much for taking the time and posting this. I have 524TD IDI with Bosch VE (normally it's mechanically advanced, like on cummins etc, but this one is solenoid metered). My current one is fried but got a used replacement from a VP30. I seriously think they just throw on different part numbers on the exact same part because your solenoid looked exactly the same down to the color of that little screen filter.
Good job. I replaced my timing belt and my start of injection is at 255. How do I get it to 65 (spec). Moving it within the oval holes of the IP pulley does not move the timing at all. 255 no matter where it’s at via IP pulley.
you probably have it so far out of time that its simply showing you a default value. You'll need to disconnect the belt and retime it to get it close enough to show you a real value.
2:05 the moment that the black shim inside cap was fall away but did not know yet about it i would like to say thanks , all but all the web say '' neeed to remove pump from timing to do a n108fix'' , with the help of your video ive suceffuly removed this cap at 2:00 without removing pump from there ive taked a T30 small bit , with an 1/4 key the cylinder was stuck giving me 255 in block 2 my n108 was 15.5ohms and have 12V when car was on , the car feeled like a john deere with loose conrods ,, and have absolutly no acceptable throttle response untill 2000rpm after removed this cap ,ive loosed the 3 ip bolts to adjust timing and wiggeling the center shaft back and foward ive succeffuly unstuck the cylinder that would goes out each time you wigle back then fourth , when i have put back the cap spring and shim and applied a litle force on it , the cylinder have made a major course ( more than it was when i removed this cap , i heard it go at it full travel , now the car look fixed for that , im not totally sure , need to check in vag com if im still at 255 in block 2 will update this comment because its a major headashe to study about this issue ,, ( here , motor was out of a car since 1 year thankl a lot you shared a lot of usefull information by doing this , keep your good work Grats from quebec Lac ST-JEan
Nice fix sucks that the other garage missed a simple O ring but that’s where school of hard knocks comes in I myself would of missed the O ring as I don’t open up pumps often anyhow good vid 👍👍
The other mechanic replaced the solenoid so I actually think they might have been right in their diagnosis. Or maybe the o-ring was missing on the 1st solenoid as well.
I was willing to go deeper into the injection pump to find the problem, but luckily I found the o-ring. I'm willing to do some repairs inside there but I certainly cannot claim to be an expert injection pump rebuilder.
since the PWM (pulse wave modulation controlled) solenoid acts like a faucet, it moves to adjust the fuel pressure on the timing advance mechanism depending on the amount of advance from the computer fuel management system... if the o-ring is not there, the fuel pressure leaks right past it and can't control it... So, that's as complicated as I can make it (sorry, it seemed way more simple in my head). I just replaced my N108... and of course, it had to happen right AFTER I did the timing belt service. I used an ohm meter to check the old one, it showed OPEN (the new one was maybe 12 ohm, if I remember correctly) Now, I'm getting P1248 code. @CoolAirVm Rm GREAT video, thanks !!!
@@CoolAirVw but the bad news, the part number was slightly different... and the 'easy pin' removal and connector splice didn't go so good... now getting "intermitent" code again, but no drivability issues... Need to investigate more soon.
In depth explanation of how timing is done on this injection pump, diagnosis and fix without replacing injection pump, yet your concerned with what? I believe there is a internet slang term for that.
